Driving me crazy: hard speed limits after cold nights

This is the problem I've had for quite some time, but with a fairly chilly 2004-2005 winter, it suddenly became a royal pain.

Depending upon how cold the night was, I won't be able to get beyond certain speed - the car would buck, jerk and may even shut down if I try to force it. The colder it had been, the lower that speed would be. After dragging along the street for some time (cops and old ladies look really tense at that point), I would be able to drive 10mph faster, another 5 minutes - 20mph faster until all limits disappear and the car runs swell.
If the weather is fairly warm, there are no problems whatsover.

There are no error codes, idle runs good, the warmed up car runs perfect. Engine is new, transmission was rebuilt 2 years ago, ignition control module is new (no distributor on this car), MAF is new, O2, crankshaft sensors, catalytic are all new.
Replacing any one of these didn't affect the issue.

What else could I check and what could I do to diagnose?

Hi, sorry I do not have an answer....but I do have the same problem with my 94 ciera? May I ask if you have found out was the problem was? Thank you. Joe P

Hi, sorry I do not have an answer....but I do have the same problem with my 94 ciera? May I ask if you have found out was the problem was? Thank you. Joe P

Still in process.
Tomorrow I'm making another attempt, a mechanic with good troubleshooting skills will be looking at it after the car's sleepover.

This morning, which was pretty frosty in California, I wasn't able to run above 15mph even after an initial warmup. Need I say that it was so bad I had to stop at the side of the road and cops immediately pulled by looking really mean?

In the meantime, transmission & transmission fluid checked out.

hey buddy,
it seems to me as if you have covered all the grounds dealing with the basic functions of the cars engine, and this may be a silly question and if so please let me know. but it seems to me that you have neglated the fuel system. typically if water gets into the gas or if the sending unit is going bad or there is a clog in the line or filter, or the punp is malfuncitoning then cars will act the way you have been describing. so then my question goes to you and the fellow with the same problem. have you had the chance to dabble with the workings of the fuel system, starting with gas pump and sending unit then furthering with fuel lines and filters and pressure in the injector rack?
-Bob

hey buddy,
it seems to me as if you have covered all the grounds dealing with the basic functions of the cars engine, and this may be a silly question and if so please let me know. but it seems to me that you have neglated the fuel system. typically if water gets into the gas or if the sending unit is going bad or there is a clog in the line or filter, or the punp is malfuncitoning then cars will act the way you have been describing. so then my question goes to you and the fellow with the same problem. have you had the chance to dabble with the workings of the fuel system, starting with gas pump and sending unit then furthering with fuel lines and filters and pressure in the injector rack?
-Bob

On the fuel system: pressure checks out; changing fuel pump, fuel filters & injectors did not affect the issue.
But the idea of water somehow getting in the fuel seems interesting, I'll let my mechanic know this tomorrow. I understand that this water is actually the condensate? Can it also come from an icing air sucked into the air intake?
How does this get tracked, meaning the presence of water in the mix?

try your tps sensor ($49), make sure your IAC is learned.

Hey buddy, it's your transmission.

I had the same problem when I didn't plug my car in. It was hard to shift from park to drive, and the car drove slow.

When I plug it in, it keeps all the fluid nice and warm. I think this is a problem that the lines were'nt able to take cold temperatures, and took a long time to warm up.

If you have a block-heater, use it! If you don't then get one! That'll solve your problem.

Spoke to the mechanic. He said that water in the mix has to be excluded, since it would be running terrible, while my beast seems to be doing well as long as I don't accelerate beyond the top speed, and after some time the problem goes completely away.
He also said that is seemed to him that the engine is misfiring, but failed to explain the hard link to the air temperature.

Hi, I changed out my spark plugs and haven't had the problem since!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re-check your spark plugs.....also spark plug wires...Good Luck!

Changed the spark plugs & wires. No effect whatsoever.

Today, in the rain, it was painful. The beast wouldn't even go above 15mph, stalled 4-5 times. Then I couldn't take it anymore, turned it off and left it for 15 minutes on the side of the street. When I restarted, it suddenly was able to make it to 40mph.

Some evil stuff is happening inside of it!

The latest diagnostics checked out
* delivery system (including fuel pressure & fuel pump)
* idle speed
* EFE system including thermo air cleaner
* EGR system
* individual cylinder condition
* primary & secondary ignition circuits
* dwell
* base timing & timing advance

Everything worked within the specs. But altogether it's a grave misery.

Just a shot in the dark but something to look at. I had an ancient 82 Dodge Colt that would blow the press fit oil filler cap off the valve cover when it was near or below freezing. It turned out that the filter in the air cleaner cover would freeze, causing pressure to stay in the valve cover. Once I replaced it, it was fine. It did not affect performance but you may be having something similar with the PCV valve. If it "freezes" open, you might have a big air leak until it warms or something similar.

Let us know what you find.

Mike