Dodge Spirit 93 - 2.5L

Hi guys. I have the Dodge Spirit 1993 - no turbo, 2.5L. This car was sitting for some time, not sure how long but not very long. There was about 1/4 of gas in the tank so I put another 5 gallons of 87 octane gas in it. Cranks but only almost starts. Pouring a gas in to the TBI helps to start it and then it runs OK. No shaking, running smoothly, doesn't stall. Gas pump works, I changed the fuel filter and air filter. When I turn it off, I can't restart it until I pour another amount of gas in to the TBI. Is the gas so bad so I have to run it out or some of the TBI component is freaking on me? Thanks.

First word of caution: NEVER POUR GASOLINE IN THE THROTTLE BODY. IF THE ENGINE BACKFIRES, YOU COULD CAUSE A FIRE!!! Next, depends on how long the car sat. If it sat for 6 months or so, chances are there are two possible scenarios: 1) the fuel has become a gel-like substance because it sat so long and now is gumming up the lines going to the injector. To fix that, drop the gas tank, clean it out, and refill w/ new fuel then have it flushed out to remove any impurities w/in the lines. The second scenario is this: depending on when it first began to sit, if it last ran in Feb. and you started it up in August or Sept., there are different grades of fuel for the different seasons. Winter fuels use alcohol in it to help avoid gas line freeze up in the cold months. In the summer, fuel doesn't need alcohol because the fuel and the alcohol can form water. If that is the case, you could be trying to start an engine up that has a relative degree of water in it. No matter what scenario you have, you will have to nonetheless, drop the gas tank to make sure everything is clean. Cars that sit have a lot of things to worry about.

Hi. It's me again. Thanks for your response.
I took the tank down, I removed the pump. What I found that the actual pump's output port is inserted in a rubber grommet which is pressed in and held by metal ring in a plastic housing, sort of pump canister or what ever. The section which is holding the rubber grommet was partially broken, the grommet had a 30% crack alongside and the metal ring which holds the grommet in its place was slanted like never installed correctly from the manufactures. So what it was doing while the pump was running I think that the pressure couldn't build up to the proper level but was enough once I got it started by pouring the gas in to the TBI. The fuel was probably partially leaking through the cracked rubber grommet back in to the gas tank. I checked if there is any chance to cause such damage to the grommet and its holder by manipulating with the pump but you would have to have the canister open and in case of some violent movement of the pump by hand you would more likely brake off the pump's output port which looks like little plastic tubing. So it must happened when the pump was assembled together and I was just the lucky one to have it. I bought from the junkyard the section which was broken, installed that and I did start the car the way it should be ever since. The inside of the gas tank was looking like new and no deposits on the bottom.
Another problem on the same car: The turn lights come on but they don't flash. All bulbs are OK, the hazard is flashing correctly which has separate flasher. The flasher for turn lights which has 3 terminals gets so hot, I burned my finger. I bought new one just to make sure even I wasn't suspecting the flasher its self and it's doing the same. What's interesting that even with the ignition off the flasher gets so hot, there must be some illegal drainage - sort of short or what ever. One of the terminal is melting the plastic box which holds those flashers and horn relay. I removed the trouble flasher just to make sure it won't burn the car down. It's going to be a hell of time spent on this trouble. If you would know some remedies, I would be very happy. Thanks again.

I fixed those turn lights, it was bad flasher but different one than I thought. In order to get to the place where is the turn lights flasher, hazard flasher, horn relay and windshield wiper delay unit you have to remove some panel below the dashboard. It's done such weird way, it should be easy to access it. The actual turn lights flasher is hidden up below the dashboard, I have the manual but explanation where it is insufficient. The one flasher I was writing in the previous message which was overheating is actually windshield wiper delay unit even it looks sort of like flasher and I believe the windshield wiper motor didn't return fully to its basic position and it is still feeding the delay unit. Tomorrow I am going to check it out.
Thanks for looking.

It 3 prong flasher looking device is for the ignition key light that stays on after the door is closed, it heats up a bi-metallic element that closes a contact when the door is opened, when the door is closed the heater element is shut off and when the bi-metallic element cools it opens the contact and shuts off the ignition key light.

Thanks a lot for the tip. I looked in the manual (the one you buy in autoparts store) and there is nothing about it, It shows the part on the relay module but there is no word what it's for. I closed all doors while watching the connected voltmeter, and still I had the power coming to the time delay relay. Maybe some of the door switches don't open after closing those doors. I check it out again on weekend. Thanks again for you help.

motive? i have the same book and its in there,,,tells u how to replace and where its at,,,,just wanted to let u know to look alittle better next time,,thanks