M.C. 91 Blazer

A couple of posts ago i said how i replaced the master cylinder and everything was fine well now that the fluid is through the lines im thinkin its normal cuz there squeakin like a maniac again but now the question of the hour is this. i still have the leak. the lines are not leakin the master cylinder is not leakin anywear but underneath u can feel the fluid but no lines are leakin its on the underside

On a 91 look at the line that runs against the drivers side frame going upward . It gets pin holes from rust over time. I have had to replace the same line on a 93 and 91 just this year. The squeaking could be the fronts Wore out? or gravel got between brake and disc maybe. Did you try the disc brake silencer on the back of the brakes.

Cracked pads does make squeaking too.

yeh i tried the disc brake quiet when i put em on in july and the rotors looked ok too thats why i replaced the pads because they were squeaking in july even though i had them put on in april would that line cause fluid to run all over the underside of the inner fender because im seriously thinking it is that line because i see fluid running down that rail

I've has success in the past with switching the left rotor with the right one,don't know why but it may be a fix for you too..so try a flip flop, just cost a little time.

is this line going to be clipped to the frame on the left hand side and does this plug into the bottom of the master cylinder goes into the booster where there are 2 lines

1 bolt onto frame where it starts to go up. There is a connection there. Take off front tire and look at the connection that is right in the opening too. Line should go up to the front of the abs. 2 pieces from factory. Using new lines from napa and new connectors and a adapter at abs you will have 3 lines. I had $23 dollar in all. I ran mine all the way to the Y lines on the rearead.

ok ill just modify it cause i dont have the abs and ill find out where it goes to from the frame up to where it connects i know its gonna be 19.98 for the line

White plastic clips hold the line to the frame the rest of the way back. I bypast them when I did my two redos though. gl

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=TRQ&MfrPartNumber=H38138&PartType=228&PTSet=A
or is this one

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=TRQ&MfrPartNumber=H38869&PartType=228&PTSet=A

i dont really see no difference in them which one but since they carry both it mite be good to know

Those are not what I was talking about. Those go to the front disc connections on th front by your a-frames to the calibers. The one I thought might be leaking is the hard metal lines that run down the drivers side frame. That are bought in pieces. I have never had to replace those ones in your pits yet.

the line thats leakin starts under the drivers side door goes up into the frame rail comes out up top and is leakin somewhere up there because it the fluid sprays out and down the frame

it is the one under the driver side door on the frame that has a connector there and starts up and looks like it goes into the frame then comes out up top because its leakin up top and sprayin everything from there down

ok its not the one on the frame like i thought its actually comin from that curly one on the combination valve that snakes it way to the front of the power steering what would be the technical name for that line or would it be better to go to the jyd and get one and then goto the parts store

Sounds like a easy fix. Mine was always the long line after that one going to the rear. Check it close under your drivers side door too. Gets really rusty there for some reason. Make your own lines from the straight ones that only cost a couple bucks apiece. I never had a problem without having those circles in the lines.

cool i can run er straight then is what ur alluding to

i want to let everyone know i got the hose 20 inches of metal line with 3/16 inch diameter im gonna put it on tomm after school and that should solve the problem and if that doesnt everyline gets a replacing cuz when your sittin in traffic and ur foot goes to the floor its not cool

Ok i am having problems down where the bracket is that has a line that goes to the caliper one to the passenger side and the one i am tryin to replace how do you get a wrench in there too turn it

I took the front drivers side tire off. if we are talking about the same line, there is a inch or so gap between inner fender and frame.

yeh theres a gap i was thinkin bout takin tire off to make it more accessible to put the hose on see theres 3 hoses at that conjuntcion
one that goes the passenger side thats ok the one to the caliper thats ok then theres the one that goes up to the combination valve thats the one im replacing i got the line its 3.85 for 20 inches of bendable 3/16inch line i can get it off the combination valve with the adjustable wrench but i dont know if you need to hold that conjunction junction down w another wrench or what. if you look at those links i showed yous the conjunction in the pic is what im talkin bout not that line that conjunction and that line to the right.

ok i have given up on this im gonna take er to the mechanic he tells me 25 bucks for labor is all i need since i have the line i had the tire off today w 2 jacks holdin up the front end and there is just no way to get that off

Sorry to here that. But dang $25 is cheap. Thats about a 1/2 hour labor here. GM dealer thats about 15 mins lol. So sounds like a deal to me. Check them lines running down the frame to the rears too. Only ones I have had troubles with.

yeah he does good enough work and hes cheap plus he loves to work on chevys and hates to work on fords he told me that if he has 3 fords outside the shop he will take the first chevy out there before the fords/ plus he will give you extras for free so thats cool doesnt charge to top nothin off

If you are talking about making your own lines out of straight ones by cutting them to length and re-flaring the ends, remember that brake line ends have to be double flared.

no its pre flared from the store it just needs to bent to shape but its the where it connects into is where its givin me trouble