16 second civic 94' hatchback

What is going to be my cheapest route to get a 94 civic hatchback to run low 16s to high 15s? Swap? Base engine work? Exast? Ect?

Just comparing this to droping an sr20det into a 95' sentra se-r, for price and a winter car.

So you want the car to run a stock 1/4 mile basically????? Basic work, bolt ons, throw a 50 shot and slicks on it and you'll be hitting high 14's.

So you want the car to run a stock 1/4 mile basically????? Basic work, bolt ons, throw a 50 shot and slicks on it and you'll be hitting high 14's.
pretty much mang.

heck i've seen 5th gen Sis with cam and i/h/e hit high 14s on street tires. So your goals are VERY fesiable even with a very low budget

do a basic tune up and you might hit that magic number of 16 sec in the 1/4

are you sure you are thinking about the right numbers blight?

yeah isn't the sr20det motor like 200+hp? I mean I don't know nissan motors at all but the only sr20det's I've seen were like 205-240hp. But I very well could be incorrect.

yup they are about 200 hp and 200 ft/lb torque too. I've never been able to find solid figures, but that seems to be the consensus

Yeah, well I don't realy need anything so fast with my 70' 240z setup i'm working on so...

(400whp -520rorque at 3000rpm, just dropping an olds 455 from 68 stock i should pull low 11s with 20MPG, and i have a stock 84' vette so...)

I just wanted a winter car quicker than my stock 89' Honda accord dx (this motor is the last carbed motor out of honda -damn thing only has 98hp the thing barely even moves. it takes 1.6 even flooring it - to get in the rpm range for it to go. Ug...

I just wanted a car with decent MPG for a winter car that is going to pull 16's at least. If I can hit 14's for 1g heck I'll do it but its not so needed. I don't want to gut it or run NOS just for future reference. Sorry i should have been a little more clear in my first post. Also which model of civic hatchback of that year range should I get, in your opinion? (I prefer that year range of hatch back myself) It would be nice to beat the hell of my buddies secretary car at least (girl car) he owns a 2003 cavilier bone stock. Also if I can avoid the winding exast sound that would be great, I know I SHOULD open up the exast its just that If I go to ANY of my friends houses with that civic making a a high reving sound they seriously WILL shoot me. We are all into for the most part muscle cars - I'm the only one not SO biased. Just as long as it its quick I say.
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And yes the sr20det has about 212Hp and 200torque it depends on what year of the motor or what doner car you are getting it from or if your turboing a stock de motor. the s15 stock in jp runs abot 250hp (thogh I'm not sure at rwh or at the crank).
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So to sum up
1.quicker than my buddies stock 03' cavy (possibly to pull 14s for under a g also)
2. What bolt on parts should I start on
3. Will I have to end up doing any swaps (could i just drop a gsr motor in it- I belive its was the b17a??? cost on this??? or is the rest just cheaper???)
4. WHAT EXACTLY SHOULD I DO, I don;t care just as long i can rape his cavy in the 0-60------------
Thanks for all your guys help and patience on this one - just because I own a honda doesn't mean I know anything about it.

95 hatch should be able to find one between 3-5 g
b18c5 integra type r engine
this set up is about 10 g after all is said and done if you dont have anything like the car or what not but if i was going to put an engine in the old accord for cheap just do a b16a swap should be more than 2g and it should smoke the 03 cavi but the top mentioned idea would not only rape the cavi it would smack it in its face with its cock and call it a bitch 2

It really depends on how much exactly you're looking to spend. Like people said above, you could just use the Si/EX motor in the car with bolt-ons and get to 16's. If you want faster, then you would have to spend a minimum of 2G's for a B16a swap, that's 160hp (170hp if you get the japanese version of the motor). If you want to spend around $3500 (prob a little bit more) you could get the B18c1, the GS-R motor with 170hp (180hp Japanese version). The B17a1 is the '92-'93 GS-R motor; but I'm not sure if it's a hydralic or cable transmission (Can anyone confirm either???)

I believe they still used cable trannies with the B17s.

EDIT: I meant cable lol

Well lets stay with the si/ex motor here. Is this stock in the 92-95 civic hatchback? Are they (si/ex) two different engines?

And what bolts on do you recomend then? Will it make that...sound ? Cost?

What venders do you all recomend? Web cites?

And I REALLY appreciate all your guys help.

The Si and EX have the same engine, the d16z6. The other hatchbacks have different engines; DX has the d15b7 (102hp), the VX has the d15z1 (92hp) and the CX has the d15b8 (70hp).
I'd say just get the regular bolt-ons: cold air intake, header, exhaust. I've heard that the Apexi World Sport and RS*R (can't remember the model right now) are pretty quiet cat-back exhausts. A lot of people go with the AEM CAI, just be careful of cheap (e-bay type) ones because they tend to be louder than a known brand. DC Sports seems to be one of the most, if not the, most popular brand for a header. I'm sure someone else could probably help you on some more ideas.

Well how about the d16y8? Is it because the Rod to stroke ratio is bad? Can that not be fixed? if not I will go with the si motor d166

Ok I looked up on the apexi exhaust good.

Now what Header should I get?

Intake?

Cam? (also will it need to be dyno tooned after the cam?)

Pully kit?

And what is a VAFC? Will that count?

And what do you guys think the cost of this will all end up to be? Just for future reference that is.

The d16y8 is an OBD2 engine, so you'll have to do some wiring to get it to work in your car.
This the cheapest I've seen the World Sport exhaust: http://www.sportcarmotion.com/apexiexhaust.htm
Don't know which header or intake are best. For cams, you could go skunk2, crower, a few others out there. AEM makes a pulley kit, people see to like them. The VAFC is a vtec engagement and air/fuel computer, it's a basic tuning tool. It'd also be good if you don't want to get it dyno tuned, although dyno tuning will be the best idea. I really don't know how much it will end up costing, but if it get's to $1,000 or more, then just go with a turbo. You could piece together your own kit for $1,500 or less and have far more power than with just bolt-ons.

hay dont think civics r jus winter cars they can be really fast!!!!!! my friend is running low 11s WITH OUT SLICKS that was with his old tranny. he jus got his new tranny put in didnt run it yet though.he got a gsr motor completly rebuilt wid turbo i forget what one it is but it cost 7000 dollars.u put 20000 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ into his motor.estemating high 10s wid new tranny and no slicks.his car is street legal!! if u were wondering

hay dont think civics r jus winter cars they can be really fast!!!!!! my friend is running low 11s WITH OUT SLICKS that was with his old tranny. he jus got his new tranny put in didnt run it yet though.he got a gsr motor completly rebuilt wid turbo i forget what one it is but it cost 7000 dollars.u put 20000 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ into his motor.estemating high 10s wid new tranny and no slicks.his car is street legal!! if u were wondering
:disappoin $7,000 turbo kit. $20,000's worth of engine work. Low 11's to high 10's. Either you buddy got screwed on paying too much $ or you're just making up #'s.

ummmmmmmmmmm no that turbo can give him up to 600 hp not screwed u doesnt turn his boost all the way up he only draged it 3 in the same day when he dyno it he had 448 whp i dont know the boost i will find out

and thats no slicks u dum ass

sorry about that dum ass lol what does your car run

Piss off jackass. I was stating that your friend paid far too much $ in motor work and the turbo kit. He could have payed probably around half the $ (around $15,000) and still be that fast. And you're talking about your friends car and not your own, so it's very possible (from an outsiders standpoint) that you're just making shit up.

And the fact that the guy who started the thread already has a fast car, he specifically said that he was looking to get some more power out of his civic. And if you read the title he said 16's! He didn't ask about 11's or 10's. And you're calling me a dumb ass? Learn to read and write proper sentences. Use some freaking punctuation and learn to spell you tool.

lol when i said sorry dumass i ment i was sorry for calling u a dumass lol he could have paid less idk but he runs 11s and it jus getts me mad when people say that civics rnt fast and they r jus family cars and shit it pisses me off and he kind of emplied that

What is going to be my cheapest route to get a 94 civic hatchback to run low 16s to high 15s? Swap? Base engine work? Exast? Ect?

Just comparing this to droping an sr20det into a 95' sentra se-r, for price and a winter car.

For a '92-'95 Civic hatch, probably the most affordable motors that will offer the range you're looking for is either a B16A3 or D16Z6 swap. The former is the DOHC VTEC motor with 160hp and the latter is a SOHC VTEC motor with 130hp. Both are OBD1 - your car is OBD1 and the compatibility will make the swap easier. The B16A3 will run $3,000 on average (give or take) and the D16Z6 can be had generally for $500 - $800 depending on where you buy it.

Both offer good gains in power over your current engine and have a large aftermarket support. Bolt-on's should easily move you into the 15's or lower depending on how much you're looking to invest into making it faster. Either motor will swap into your car with few modifications on the whole - the car has the same chassis as the Del Sol which came with both the B16A3 and D16Z6 so it's simply a matter of acquiring the necessary parts for the swap and it'll drop in. The rest will be wiring and troubleshooting. The Si model for your car also had the D16Z6, so that's another source for parts.

If you want to stay with the motor you have, you can still get decent power out of it. You can remove the head on it and put the D16Z6 head on instead if you want to avoid a motor swap. The D16Z6 is basically your motor with the SOHC VTEC head on it anyway, so throwing on the head would be the same thing as swapping in the whole D16Z6 motor, honestly. Might take a bit of wiring in the VTEC and swapping ECU's, but the result is basically the same. This is known as a "mini-me" swap and is less expensive than a whole motor swap. You can also add a turbo or supercharger to your motor, however I would recommend reinforcing the motor internals to withstand the extra stress. Your current motor has decent aftermarket support, however there is more support for the D16Z6 or B16A3, so weigh your options before making your decision.

And yes, Honda's can be quick. There were two '92-'95 Civic hatches running mid-11's at the Atlanta Dragway where I lived. Both had turbo'd GS-R swaps. It's all a matter of what you're looking to get out of the car and how much you're willing to spend to get it. :)

As for recommendations on parts to help speed it up, I'd start with the basics, whichever motor you decide upon. Intake, exhaust manifold, high-flow catalytic converter, and full cat-back exhaust. Engine mount inserts to transfer more power to the wheels, and a stiffer suspension. That'll do much for improving drivability and speed. After that it's mostly engine internals and related items such as throttlebody or intake manifold. Port and polish on the head and an aftermarket clutch system and flywheel will help as well. You have a LOT to choose from on Honda's so take your time and select what you need based on what you're looking to get out of it.

Thanks plastic fork I will go about the si swap then D16Z6, btw what motor is it that I have now in the hatchy???

Also what do you recomend for all of those bolt ons for the d16z6? Vendors and such, websites? Which ones to kill that 04' cavy of my friend's? And low quiet exhaust, Apexi?

Thanks for your help, you too civic spoon so far you two ar ethe two who have helped the most.
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And to the MORONIC IMBECIL who made the post about "fast civics"

Huh, I will end up spending a grand total of about $3500 on a car (and the parts to do so) will get 20MPG on the hiway and should pull 11's on street tires. Unitil I could spend 3500 buck on the cicic and this includes the parts to make it "fast" and hit the 11's mark on stock tires-don't talk.

I was orginaly going to use the 455 now I've gone back and looked at the swap and am going to do a 70' caddy 500. According to chilton's guid it had 400hp stock , and 550 torque stockand at 3000rpm stock. Now this motor was a 70 motor so it has to be UNDERATED, so I probable have the 425hp, and 575 torque. Oh and this motor wil run me about 200 bucks. So again keep thy mouth closed!
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Btw no offese to you "civic" guys. Hell - I plan to be doing things with a civic! I just don't expect to make it quick. Also I once asked what it would take to get a cheap honda pull flat 12's it was agreed that it would take about 4 to 6 Gs (which isn't all that bad either), just for future reference. Oh it was turboing a b16 and dropping that into a 85' CRX that has been stripped to the bone.

Thanks plastic fork I will go about the si swap then D16Z6, btw what motor is it that I have now in the hatchy???

Also what do you recomend for all of those bolt ons for the d16z6? Vendors and such, websites? Which ones to kill that 04' cavy of my friend's? And low quiet exhaust, Apexi?

Thanks for your help, you too civic spoon so far you two ar ethe two who have helped the most.

No sweat, man. That's why the forums are here. :)

You more than likely have a D15B7 which is a 102hp and 97ft/lb torque SOHC non-VTEC. You might also have a D15B8 which is a 70hp and 83ft/lb torque SOHC non-VTEC. The D16Z6 is a good motor and don't let anyone else tell you otherwise. It is relatively inexpensive to put in, and parts are widely available for it and it can be a strong, quick motor when time and upgrades are invested into making it so.

What people don't realize is that there is no "best motor". The motor that best suits the car is strictly dependant on what the owner is looking to get out of the car - or what people would call "your application." Decide what you want out of the car first and then decide what fits your needs.

Now, deciding on parts is a big challenge. Many people will tell you "this is the best" and will steer you in that direction. The absolute best thing you can do is talk to people and gather information and research what parts work best with the motor and the kind of power you're looking to make. Take the header for example. Most people automatically tell you the 4-1 header is best. Honestly, only if you're making lots of power and you're looking for top end - the 4-1 header will lose mid-range torque for your engine. If you want a more reliable daily driver with more power but not as much of a loss in mid-range torque, a 4-2-1 variant is more suitable. See what I'm getting at? Find out what you want first, then find out how the individual parts you want affect your performance to achieve what you want, then find a good quality manufacturer that employs the design characteristics you want.

As for manufacturers, here's what I have learned to be solid products with good overall performance and quality. You still need to decide which design you want, but it's a start. AEM makes outstanding intakes. So does J's Racing. DC Sports makes a great header and is truly the best bang for the buck. Anything better will start to get very expensive. Magnaflow, Carsound, and Random Technologies make good high-flow catalytic converters. And Apex-i, RS*R, and a couple others make good exhaust systems. The RS*R has the quietest exhaust on the market and no loss in performance. I will be installing an RS*R on my own car when I have the time and money. Tien makes outstanding suspension products, and Energy Suspension makes great quality bushings for suspension, engine mounts, and other locations. I'd recommend the blacks ones since they're graphite impregnated so won't squeak like the red ones do.

The optimal wheel size for Honda's is 15", so if you get aftermarket wheels I would recommend no larger. But that's your choice and personal taste. The most beneficial wheel size for the EG chassis (our chassis) is 15x7 although the wheel size is unusual. I have 15x6.5 on my Del Sol. Rota makes great wheels for the price - I have these as well. I have not used other wheels, so can't comment on personal experience.

As for their websites, most places will sell products through distributors instead of directly from their sites. And most can be found on Google anyway, so I'm not going to list them. :p

:eek7: Wow, you are SOOO awsome, this is what i was actually looking for this is just great!!

So...

Intakes: AEM, J's Racing.

Header: DC Sports

Exhaust: RS*R

High-flow Catalytic Converters: Magnaflow, Carsound, and Random Technologies

Suspension: Tien

“Other locations”: Energy Suspension (bushings for suspension, engine mounts)

Wheels: Rota (Best wheel size:15x7)

Hold on just one minuet. I just had an "idea" would a 500cubic inch front wheel drive carbed Big Block v8 fit in this? Oh and the engine weighs only 40lbs hevier than a stock SBC With aluminum intake. with aluminum heads about 100 less. So how much does this engine weigh? oh and I know I would have to get godly front suspensionas it is... This is that caddy 500. I 425hp and 570 torque at 300rpm should get a 2500 pound 92-95 civic hatch back moving! I know it will fit in the 84-88 pontiac fiero but..

Just a crazy idea I have NO idea if it would work. Just putting this out there if I ever wanted to make crazy power with this thing. Would this even be streetable?

I've seen the Cadillac Northstar motor shoved into a VW Golf Mark II, but I wouldn't recommend it. Fabrication will be needed to make sure it works correctly considering size, suspension, drivetrain, electronics, and the like. The fabrication and installation alone would more than likely destroy any budget you might have. Putting engines in Honda's that weren't meant for Honda's is a whole other ballgame when it comes to wiring and fabrication.

Putting a H-series motor in a Honda designed for a D or B series is difficult enough as is when considering fabrication and work, but putting in a motor not even in the Honda family is much more difficult. It can be done but don't expect to stay within budget. Provided you can finish the installation and get it to work, I would imagine it would be streetable as long as the motor was the same year or newer than your car and it passes emissions in your area.

The products I listed are good companies and products, but they're just guidelines to get you started. Best thing you can do for yourself is to research and determine if it's the right product for you. Stay away from eBay no-name brands. There's plenty of companies and products to choose from, so do your homework.

Well i know how I would do it it is just that I wonder if engine would fit and if the the car would even be streetable.

I mean it only takes the z 300hp and about 365 torque at 3500rpm to pull 12 flats and that is rear wheal drive and the same weight as the civic.

Ok lets put it this way the 70' eldorado with this same engine weighed 4600 lbs it pulled flat 16s on stock crapy 70's style suspension and tires. this was also front wheel drive now drop a ton (in wiehgt) lets see how quick that thing goes then....

All I'm saying andthing quicker than a viper is to me NOT streetable. do you think this is still streetable, i mean your the civic guy here, I just know old muscle car stuff.

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I would have to make it into a full frame for one, new suspension to hold up the weight. Better wider tires. gut the engine bay no need to worry about elctronics here no computer in 1970. just basic wiring stuff. cut the old crossmember to fit and weld that mother down. Drop the engine and the rest of components in and we are all good. This would probably take a summer or so. But my point is if it will fit there is no problem with the rest of the stuff for me.

The Cadillac motor is pretty big and took up almost all the room in the Golf and a lot of stuff was relocated to the rear in the trunk/hatch. You'd probably have to do the same. Honestly, my opinion is to stick with Honda motors. You can make these things pretty darn fast with Honda motors.

For instance, one of the people on my Del Sol forum just ran a 10.58 second 1/4 mile with a turbo LS/VTEC setup (523hp and 330 lbs of torque). I also know of two Civic hatches like yours running low 11's on the 1/4 mile in Atlanta where I used to live with a turbo GS-R setup. Honda's aren't known for torque, so if you want serious numbers you're going to have to invest and build the motors.

Best thing to ask yourself: Is this my daily driver or have I caught the bug and want to make it really fast? One costs a lot more than the other and both have a lot of options available to them. It's just not worth it in my opinion to swap in motors from different manufacturers. That's my two cents on the matter. The rest is up to you. :)

Well out of curiosity what did they put in the trunk other than the battery?

And has anyone even done a SBC in a civic? I mean a SBC as been in just about everything now. I'm not asking for a kit or anything just curious.

So what wdo you think the 2010 pound hatch back would even pull with the 325 hp at 4500rpm and 430 torque at 3500rpm SBC? Again out of curiosity.

I probably plan on just using the greddy turbo kit for $1,800 for the d16z6. Hey do you know how much pwer it should have after I install the kit? Should I do anything first before the kit? Rebuild it? new bottom end? Anything???

I think they put the cooling system in the rear as well and ran ducting for the coolant hoses, etc. The motor really took up almost all the room in the front.

As for a SBC in a Civic, I haven't the slightest if someone has put one in before.

As your stock hatch is approximately 70lbs lighter than my stock Del Sol (your hatch weights closer to 2,400lbs I believe), and based off of the numbers I've seen the Del Sol run with around 325hp, etc., I'd say you'd probably run somewhere in the 12 second range in the 1/4, give or take. That much torque would create torque-spin on the wheels though. I'd recommend you invest in a good limited slip differential.

The D-block can hold around 400hp before it reaches it's operational limits (or it's re-sleeved with stronger sleeves). As for how much power you'll gain with the turbo, that'll depend entirely on what tuning you put into it, the other parts installed with it, and how well you build the motor to withstand the stresses so it doesn't blow up on you over time. If it were me installing a turbo, I would build the bottom end and drivetrain with parts that will better handle the stresses of boost - forged components such as pistons and rods on the bottom end and perhaps better parts in the drivetrain such as titanium springs, a more appropriate camshaft, adjustable cam gear for tuning, etc. You'll need a different setup for intake and exhaust if you turbo than the standard intake and header - that's mostly for N/A motors.

This is where the extent of my knowledge begins to get fuzzy since I still have a lot to learn and I don't want to give you incorrect information, so I would recommend you utilize the search function and research what you're looking for and read - a lot. Doesn't hurt to ask questions on the forums from more experienced posters either. :)

Thanks that hels quite a bit more than you make it sound to.
:icon16:

I think I will make an actual thread pertaining to the sbc swap thing.

i have a 94 civic ex with a d16z6, headers intake exhaust, no slicks, and i run 16.06 all day. i even wear out preludes cuz there so heavy and dont hit vtec til later, its not hard to run 16's, especially in a hatch,i have a coupe and still run 16s, you should at least be in high 15s, if i got my exit time to under a half sec id be in 15s.

i have a 94 civic ex with a d16z6, headers intake exhaust, no slicks, and i run 16.06 all day. i even wear out preludes cuz there so heavy and dont hit vtec til later, its not hard to run 16's, especially in a hatch,i have a coupe and still run 16s, you should at least be in high 15s, if i got my exit time to under a half sec id be in 15s.
yea thanks for digging this up if your "wearing out" preludes they probbly are ragged out sohc non vtec one.

where did you install the other header?

... Since it's been dug up, I may as well interject my times.

Reaction - .5801
60 Foot - 2.1961
330 Foot - 6.6501
1/8 Mile ET - 10.3002
1/8 Mile MPH - 66.78
1/4 Mile ET - 16.0083
1/4 Mile MPH - 84.30

1994 Civic EX. Stock D16Z6 Engine.

Modifications:

-Password:JDM Power Chamber Intake
-Megan 4-2-1 Header
-Megan High Flow Catalytic Converter (Stock exhaust from Cat-Back)
-Exedy Stock Replacement Clutch
-TEIN S Tech Springs/Tokico HP Shocks

Not to mention I was running on the worst tires ever... Hankook H101 Ventus :thumbsdown:

Next time I run at the tracks, I'll have the ITB's, and slicks (12psi)... Hopefully I'll be into the 15's.

We'll see...

-Wes

where did you install the other header?

I was wondering the same thing :lol:

-Wes