2.7L Engine Issues - Transmission too

Ok people, I've read my fair share of comments about oil sludge trashing the engine, I've read enough about synthetic to go blind. I've torn apart my engine is this is what I have to say...

Oil Sludge was NOT an issue in my engine. This is all from two years ago...

I hit 88K miles, the clicking begins, two weeks later, I'm on a corner with a dead engine. Had it towed to the dealership, they cranked and cranked and cranked, then ran hours of diagnostics to tell me I had a blown rod because their compression tests were showing that. I told the service manager he was nuts...especially after he quoted me just over $9,000 to fix the engine. I towed the car home and took it apart. That was where I discovered what really happened...you see, the timing chain had actually snapped...not stretched, not come off of the sprockets, but snapped in half. Very nice. The guys at the shop did me a wonderful favor of cranking it with the broken timing chain and smashing nearly half my valves. I took this up with the dealership and the most they wanted to give up was the cost of the parts and the time that they charged me for...fine, screw them. I had that engine in PIECES. I used synthetic oil most of the time, but I still like to cheap out and use plain old oil. My engine was the cleanest that I have ever seen at 88K miles. There was no build up, there was no debris in the oil pan other than that from the sheared off timing belt guides. Apparently, as best as I can tell, the timing chain guides (nicely covered with PLASTIC) sheared off over time and one totally dislodged, got into my chain made it's way around to the water pump sprocket, got stuck in the sprocket and broke the chain in two. So, $800 and two weeks later the car is running again...

Today, I'm now driving it at 126K miles, and the input/output speed sensors on the transmisson failed. The mechanic tells me that my transmission is desperately in need of a flush, so, I got soaked for that. Now, how long before the transmission totally fails? It has a rough occassional jump from 1st to 2nd. It randomly hops around gears at certain accelerations...even better, the check engine light goes on under heavy acceleration.

Or will it be the engine again? (I'm guessing I have about another 30-35K miles before the engine goes again) I'm seriously tired of being laughed at by service technicians at shops and parts stores for the woes of this car.

This is what I have to say - DODGE, I HATE YOU. Mopar, I LOATHE YOU! Chrysler, I despise you! I will never buy a Daimler/Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar piece of crap like this again.

nice job on fixing the engine yourself, most would give up at that point...

as for your trans, when you had it flushed did the shop use ATF+4? These transmissions require a special fluid from mopar. It's Mopar part #9602, and comes in a black bottle. So many places get that wrong, and it will cause damage to the trans if they didn't. The mention of erratic shifting makes me believe that they may have used a ATF compliant fluid, which aren't really any good, or worse yet, Dexron.... dexron will murder these trannys.. I refuse to put anything except oem fluid, and filters in my trans -- i had the one in my 95 concorde rebuilt twice, once at 75K, and again at 108K

As for the check engine light, there is a way to find out whats wrong on your own. With the car off, turn the key from off - on - off - on - off - on. on is the position before start. The car will flash any stored error codes on the odometer display. It may take some a few times to get this method to work, i've tried it in a variety of late model mopars, sometimes it's easy, sometimes not.
Here's a better explanition of this: link here (http://dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9490)

Also, any autozone, or decent auto parts place will hook it up to the scanner for free. Since you probably have a stored trans code, you need to go this route anyways, since the key on/off method will only give engine error codes, plus one generic transmission trouble code. (p0700) Error in trans computer

If you really do belive the engine is on it's way out again, there are many who have swapped the 3.2L or the 3.5L engine in with great success. Both engines are a billion times more reliable than the 2.7L And if you sell the 2.7L to a junkyard before it dies, you should get some nice cash for it, since used/rebuilt running 2.7's are in high demand.

Amen, my last Dudge too