B18A1 in '89 Civic

Ok. I'm new to this Forum, but not new to Civics. Ive got an '89 Civic H/B DX. And Ive got a 90 Acura Integra LS----whole car. Im wanting to swap as much as possible from the 'Teg to the Civic, e.g. #1 engine & tranny(of course), front seats(better hugging), front and rear disc brakes, and possibly the dash or instrument cluster.

Ive already gotten a mount kit for the engine, all new gaskets(including timing belt and water pump), OBXR ceramic header with matching stainless catback exhaust, and Meagan adjustable cam gears. Ive read you have to make a dent in the driver side frame rail for clearance of the alternator pulley. Is this true and if so can anybody tell me how far back on the frame or show any pics? Also will the 'Teg's axles not work in my Civic? They have the same amount of teeth. Or are they to long? I dont think I have to fool with the wiring because Ive already change all of it when I had a ZC in it. Correct me if I'm wrong. Well i think these questions will keep a few people busy, so I'll stop for now. Any help will be appreciated.

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welcome!! the dent has to be made right under the shock tower. i also used a shorter belt so i didn't really have to dent anything. its a close fit. and yes the teg axles will work. just take off the dust caps on the hubs for clearence

... Ive read you have to make a dent in the driver side frame rail for clearance of the alternator pulley. Is this true and if so can anybody tell me how far back on the frame or show any pics?
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Take a look at the HASport website, they have installation instructions (and pics too, I think) for the mount kits that explain how big the dent needs to be. I would also follow Anthony90Si's advice about the shorter belt. Sounds like an excellent tip.

And I am pretty sure you will need the Teg axles (including intermediate shaft).

Oh yeah...and welcome!!!

in addition to denting the frame rail underneath the rectangle hole on the driver shock tower, you should bend the lip on the rear crossmember down on the automatic mount location so the rear mount bracket will clear. YOu also might have to cut the front mount bracket off of the crossmember if it is hitting the engine, depending on what mount kit you use.

i got the same deal going on my car.. i got an ls, but some people on here told me to sell the car ,, and by a better engine, so i have no idea what im doing

thanks guys.....my kit is not a Hasport kit but a kit from Street Imports out of Canada. But ive seen the Hasport website about the rear crossmember. I'm just having to wait on all this until I get this brace off my right hand ........ I cut one of my fingers all the way to the bone, through a tendon (OUCH!). But it shouldnt be long till I'm wrenching again. Thanks again