2001 Rodeo problems
crodog
10-28-2004, 09:47 AM
First, I'd like to say that this forum has helped me in the past with problems I've had with my previous vehicles and it's nice to know that there are people out there who are willing to help others!
Lately, a few times a week when I start up the car first thing in the morning, I'll get a sputtering and it sounds as if it's gonna die, after a few seconds, it seems to have fixed itself and it'll start fine for the rest of the day. I think it might be a fuel issue or maybe I need new spark plugs...any ideas?
Secondly, while I sit at idle and then accelerate, there is a noise coming from the engine that sounds like loose bearings rattling around. I've had this checked and my mechanic told me that the fuel is firing before it gets into the cylinders. Does this sound right?
Lately, a few times a week when I start up the car first thing in the morning, I'll get a sputtering and it sounds as if it's gonna die, after a few seconds, it seems to have fixed itself and it'll start fine for the rest of the day. I think it might be a fuel issue or maybe I need new spark plugs...any ideas?
Secondly, while I sit at idle and then accelerate, there is a noise coming from the engine that sounds like loose bearings rattling around. I've had this checked and my mechanic told me that the fuel is firing before it gets into the cylinders. Does this sound right?
amigo-2k
10-28-2004, 10:27 AM
The first thing sounds like either the intake manafold gasket or the fule pressure regulator or your EGR is dirty.
Second: Sounds like classic engine PING, add chevron techron concentrate to the gas and a half bottle of Sea Foam to the oil. Also, clean the EGR, Egr port and the PCV. Also, going to a higher octane gas will help too.
see the FAQ link below for more help.
Second: Sounds like classic engine PING, add chevron techron concentrate to the gas and a half bottle of Sea Foam to the oil. Also, clean the EGR, Egr port and the PCV. Also, going to a higher octane gas will help too.
see the FAQ link below for more help.
Canuck Zu
10-29-2004, 11:38 AM
Hi there,
I'm having the exact same issue with the starting on my 2001 Rodeo. it's been back to the shop numerous times to replace the intake manifold gasket, the throttle body, egr, fuel sending unit... and it's the same thing. But, I've figured this out. If I use my truck to go to and from work (about 15 minutes both ways) it'll do this the next morning, but if I used it more than that, like gone out after work, it'll be fine. I have since given up trying to figure out what it is, because the shop doesn't seem to know why. Do you know if that amount of usage you used your truck for the day prior affects it?
I'm having the exact same issue with the starting on my 2001 Rodeo. it's been back to the shop numerous times to replace the intake manifold gasket, the throttle body, egr, fuel sending unit... and it's the same thing. But, I've figured this out. If I use my truck to go to and from work (about 15 minutes both ways) it'll do this the next morning, but if I used it more than that, like gone out after work, it'll be fine. I have since given up trying to figure out what it is, because the shop doesn't seem to know why. Do you know if that amount of usage you used your truck for the day prior affects it?
amigo-2k
10-29-2004, 11:44 AM
My Truck takes a long time to start (cranks an excessive length of time).
Leaking fuel pressure regulator is the common cause:
photo of the fuel pressure reg
http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/785.html
Quote from the above link:
The original symptom was a Check Engine Light with a #6 cylinder misfire code of P0306 when set at idle, or a random misfire P0300 when set while driving. The #6 was obviously running rich as indicated by the the spark plug. Eventually it became a hard start also. Here's the fix: The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel down it's manifold pressure vacuum line. The vacuum line attaches to the manifold right above the #6 port, that's why the richness only in that cylinder.
Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0
Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/ (my local dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.
See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T.
Read the whole thing prior to starting the job. I replaced the regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely fixed these problems:
1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)
2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all
3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas
. 4) Intermittent CEL light - gone The regulator has no electrical connections.
It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail. Before attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator. Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure (works great).
1) Remove the fuel cap.
2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.
3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.
4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.
5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.
Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change the part.
Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the rail and is held in place by a snap ring.
Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring. Before you start the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit.
Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do the job. You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.
For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where the snap ring is easily maneuvered out. Make sure that you remove all parts of the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one. Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all of the parts that you see on the new regulator.
Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on. Start it up. Done.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=159663&page=2
Leaking fuel pressure regulator is the common cause:
photo of the fuel pressure reg
http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/785.html
Quote from the above link:
The original symptom was a Check Engine Light with a #6 cylinder misfire code of P0306 when set at idle, or a random misfire P0300 when set while driving. The #6 was obviously running rich as indicated by the the spark plug. Eventually it became a hard start also. Here's the fix: The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel down it's manifold pressure vacuum line. The vacuum line attaches to the manifold right above the #6 port, that's why the richness only in that cylinder.
Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0
Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/ (my local dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.
See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T.
Read the whole thing prior to starting the job. I replaced the regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely fixed these problems:
1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)
2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all
3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas
. 4) Intermittent CEL light - gone The regulator has no electrical connections.
It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail. Before attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator. Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure (works great).
1) Remove the fuel cap.
2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.
3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.
4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.
5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.
Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change the part.
Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the rail and is held in place by a snap ring.
Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring. Before you start the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit.
Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do the job. You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.
For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where the snap ring is easily maneuvered out. Make sure that you remove all parts of the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one. Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all of the parts that you see on the new regulator.
Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on. Start it up. Done.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=159663&page=2
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