Hombre DYING and Starting Problems
SD45
10-27-2004, 11:27 PM
I posted this on the Chev. forum last Fall, and haven't come up with a solution. Since its Fall again, having the problems all over again. In the past 2 weeks it has not started once and has quite while driving twice.
My problem is that my 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittantly cuts off. I pull off to the side of the road, and try to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes. Starting the vehicle is a another common problem besides quitting while running, with similar symptoms. Something different with my Hombre is that the problems starting appear to be weather related. They happen in times of drastic temperature change, in the Fall, Spring, and Winter. I've never had a problem in the Summer.
The following work has been performed- new fuel filter, 2nd ground put in, spark plug wires have been replaced, the relays replaced and a crank case sensor has been replaced. The next step was to have ICM replaced but from reading other posts this does not fix the problem.
Related posting:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=1679606
I'm at my wit's end here- I PRAY and HOPE I find an answer real soon. Thanks so much.
Joshua
My problem is that my 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittantly cuts off. I pull off to the side of the road, and try to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes. Starting the vehicle is a another common problem besides quitting while running, with similar symptoms. Something different with my Hombre is that the problems starting appear to be weather related. They happen in times of drastic temperature change, in the Fall, Spring, and Winter. I've never had a problem in the Summer.
The following work has been performed- new fuel filter, 2nd ground put in, spark plug wires have been replaced, the relays replaced and a crank case sensor has been replaced. The next step was to have ICM replaced but from reading other posts this does not fix the problem.
Related posting:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=1679606
I'm at my wit's end here- I PRAY and HOPE I find an answer real soon. Thanks so much.
Joshua
2eyefishclaw
10-28-2004, 01:34 AM
I am guessing manual tranny
get down inside of the truck with a flashlight check for rub through on the harness that the cluth pedal rubs on when depressed if you find nothing there
pull the padding backdrivers side firewall there is a ground strap that bolts in the firewall I have dealt with a few of them comming loose the first one really ate me up I just about pulled my hair out good luck please let me know if this helps
get down inside of the truck with a flashlight check for rub through on the harness that the cluth pedal rubs on when depressed if you find nothing there
pull the padding backdrivers side firewall there is a ground strap that bolts in the firewall I have dealt with a few of them comming loose the first one really ate me up I just about pulled my hair out good luck please let me know if this helps
SD45
11-17-2004, 09:54 AM
Thanks very much, I will check it out. Manual tranny.
SD45
12-06-2004, 04:15 PM
Well I just got the Hombre back after it took a Thanksgiving vacation to a local garage. Mechanic looked it over and drove it, none of the problems occured and he couldn't replicate it either.
Checked:
Harnesses check by clutch pedal, and in engine compartment
Checked electrical connectors to main components in engine compartment
Removed computer prom cover, checked inside- OK
He noticed corrosion build up on diagnostic connector under driver’s dash, bracket also corroded- and noted that perhaps it was a flood at one time? This is the first time I have heard this.
A few years ago the mechanic had a Chevy Blazer that had similiar problems, but it would happen much more often, almost dependable. Based on that the mechanic suggests replacing the ignition module and cam sensor. Any thoughts on these suggestions?
Thanks very much!
Joshua
Checked:
Harnesses check by clutch pedal, and in engine compartment
Checked electrical connectors to main components in engine compartment
Removed computer prom cover, checked inside- OK
He noticed corrosion build up on diagnostic connector under driver’s dash, bracket also corroded- and noted that perhaps it was a flood at one time? This is the first time I have heard this.
A few years ago the mechanic had a Chevy Blazer that had similiar problems, but it would happen much more often, almost dependable. Based on that the mechanic suggests replacing the ignition module and cam sensor. Any thoughts on these suggestions?
Thanks very much!
Joshua
NovaRod
12-06-2004, 07:23 PM
Hey Josh,
NovaRod here.
If you are saying it is failing regularly, there are some things you can do.
1- Are you getting spark when cranking?
2- Is fuel pumping? Do you hear the fuel pump spin up?
3- Since you are EFI, if you have both spark and fuel, then ECM may be the way to go.
An engine needs ignition, fuel, and timing to start. Try and stay with the basics when it fails regularly. The shop (Rodkeys?) couldn't get it to fail when it's failing as often as you say?
Again. no codes? That should also tell you something.
Since I'm not around you, I can't see what you have. Stay with what you know. Keep close track of everything you replace, measure, observe, etc. If you lose track of what you've done start over and do it again. Persistance here will pay off. If you are leaning toward replacing another part, justify replacing it. Why are you doing it? Is this the highest priority part to replace? Is it expensive? Would it be better to replace the low hanging (i.e. cheap) fruit before going with the expensive stuff?
Some basics:
What's your battery voltage? What should it be?
What's your battery voltage when cranking? What should it be?
What's your battery voltage when the engine is running? What should it be?
What's your fuel pressure at the fuel rail? What should it be?
What is the answer to all the above questions when it's operating normally? When it's failing?
Those are some of the questions I would ask myself just to be sure I'm not overlooking something basic. Remember, it's not throwing codes, so electronics doesn't rank high on my list IMHO.
Time doesn't cost as much as parts, so a few hours on this may pay off.
Just remember, If you want to imitate a race engine builder know that it's the unglamorous things that win.
Good luck and keep on truckin!
NovaRod (where did I put my multimeter?) :naughty:
NovaRod here.
If you are saying it is failing regularly, there are some things you can do.
1- Are you getting spark when cranking?
2- Is fuel pumping? Do you hear the fuel pump spin up?
3- Since you are EFI, if you have both spark and fuel, then ECM may be the way to go.
An engine needs ignition, fuel, and timing to start. Try and stay with the basics when it fails regularly. The shop (Rodkeys?) couldn't get it to fail when it's failing as often as you say?
Again. no codes? That should also tell you something.
Since I'm not around you, I can't see what you have. Stay with what you know. Keep close track of everything you replace, measure, observe, etc. If you lose track of what you've done start over and do it again. Persistance here will pay off. If you are leaning toward replacing another part, justify replacing it. Why are you doing it? Is this the highest priority part to replace? Is it expensive? Would it be better to replace the low hanging (i.e. cheap) fruit before going with the expensive stuff?
Some basics:
What's your battery voltage? What should it be?
What's your battery voltage when cranking? What should it be?
What's your battery voltage when the engine is running? What should it be?
What's your fuel pressure at the fuel rail? What should it be?
What is the answer to all the above questions when it's operating normally? When it's failing?
Those are some of the questions I would ask myself just to be sure I'm not overlooking something basic. Remember, it's not throwing codes, so electronics doesn't rank high on my list IMHO.
Time doesn't cost as much as parts, so a few hours on this may pay off.
Just remember, If you want to imitate a race engine builder know that it's the unglamorous things that win.
Good luck and keep on truckin!
NovaRod (where did I put my multimeter?) :naughty:
WillalwaysownaFord
09-14-2005, 01:10 PM
It would be possible for the Crank sensor to be bad
69 442
05-03-2008, 03:11 PM
Not trying to steal thread as this is my first post, but have very similar problem. Hoping to get help. I bought a 98 Hombre not running. Guy said he was driving home and truck went dead and would not crank. Thought it was timing belt. I bought it took it home got a repair manuel and tore it down. Well it was a timing chain and still in time. I went ahead and put new chain gears and tensioner. I decided to crank it before putting everything back on to make sure it was in time. Motor turned over for ever, I would let the starter rest and try again. It finally cranked and I killed it put everything back on motor. I have been working on it for over a year now and never got it to crank again. A local mechanic for the large Isuzu trucks told me it was the fuel pump, 180.00 no help. So next he says coil packs another chunk of change still won't crank. It shows to be getting fire and gas on my old school cars ( 69 442, 67 El-Camino, 68 fastback Mustang) that would at least crank them or back fire or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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