Jack points

Hey guys...I'm new here & already have questions...to start:

What are the safe jacking points on a '97 Blazer (4 door, 2 WD)?

Besides the areas for the scissor jack of course...is it safe to put a floor jack under the front skid plate, and/or under the differential housing?

thanks in advance!
-Mike

The rear diff is fine for a jack point. I'm unsure about the skidplate through. I haven't used a floor jack to lift up my Blazer recently, but I recall there being a crossmember somewhere that wasn't too hard to use. If nothing else, lift it at the sides and use jackstands just to be sure.

Skid plate on a 2WD? If you want to raise the front end, place the floor jack at the center of the front suspension crossmember. If you want to raise the rear end, place the floor jack at the center of the differential. You can also lift the front end corners by placing floor jack at the lower control arm, inboard of the lower ball joint. You can lift the rear end corners by placing floor jack at the axle, inboard of shock absorber hanger. Those last four points are usually where I put my jack stands.

Thanks for the advice!

I may be using the wrong term referring to the skid plate; on the front crossmember there's a plate that is apparently designed to protect the front end components.
I used that area as a lifting point once, but wasn't sure if it was a good practice.
I'll be replacing my brake pads this week (probably bearings too...) & wanted to know for sure where I could lift from.

As usual, the dirtbags at the Chevy dealership don't want to give any info without charging....which is why I do as much maintenance as I can in the first place.

Anyway...thanks guys! I'll undoubtedly be back later with more questions...
-Mike

Thanks for the advice!

I may be using the wrong term referring to the skid plate; on the front crossmember there's a plate that is apparently designed to protect the front end components.
I used that area as a lifting point once, but wasn't sure if it was a good practice.
-Mike

If it's a heavy duty plate (about 1/4" thick on my 4wd, ~6-8" sq) and it's not bent from your previous lift, it's a quick and good way to get both front wheels off the ground at once.

These trucks still have a full rail type frame, so as long as the cross-member is a sturdy piece (not a flimsy stamped unit) it should be quite acceptable for shade-tree work.

Mike

there are holes on the bottom of the frame for using the factory jack. The factory jack has spherical bulge on the top of it that fits perfectly into these holes, but this is only for lifting a corner at a time.