h22a5, a4, and a8
nuro
02-20-2002, 02:07 PM
I own a european honda prelude (1999) VTi 4WS.
it has a h22a5 engine in it which is rated at 185hp. the h22a4 (US) is rated at 195 or 200 (5speed)... and in 2000 europe changed to the h22a8, which is 200 hp also.
Does anyone know what the differences are between the h22a5 and the a4 or a8?
thanks :D
it has a h22a5 engine in it which is rated at 185hp. the h22a4 (US) is rated at 195 or 200 (5speed)... and in 2000 europe changed to the h22a8, which is 200 hp also.
Does anyone know what the differences are between the h22a5 and the a4 or a8?
thanks :D
Veetec
02-20-2002, 02:31 PM
At first: Welcome to the europe forum!! Feel free to ask whatever you want.:)
Iīve just bought a `00 VTEC Prelude but I donīt have got any idea about your question.
Over here in germany we have got three different 5th gen Prelude engines:
2.0i SOHC non-VTEC with 133hp and manual tranny
2.2i DOHC VTEC with 185hp and auto tranny
2.2i DOHC VTEC with 185hp (200hp in the y2k) and manual tranny
By the way, where are you from?
Iīve just bought a `00 VTEC Prelude but I donīt have got any idea about your question.
Over here in germany we have got three different 5th gen Prelude engines:
2.0i SOHC non-VTEC with 133hp and manual tranny
2.2i DOHC VTEC with 185hp and auto tranny
2.2i DOHC VTEC with 185hp (200hp in the y2k) and manual tranny
By the way, where are you from?
Veetec
02-20-2002, 02:32 PM
Oh, wait! One of them could be the Accord Type-R engine!!! Itīs basically a modified Prelude engine.
nuro
02-20-2002, 03:05 PM
thanks for the welcome, veetec. :D
what i'm interested in is what are the internal changes between the h22a5 and a4, or the h22a5 and a8. Cams? ECU? Compression? It seems odd to me that during the same year the US model which is practically the same had 10 more horsepower. The internals are really important since i will probably go turbo or JRSC with this car. Do you know who i could get in touch with to answer these questions? Is there a honda headquarters in europe maybe?
Oh yeah, and i'm in Lausanne, Switzerland. I've tried talking to the honda people here but they don't know.
what i'm interested in is what are the internal changes between the h22a5 and a4, or the h22a5 and a8. Cams? ECU? Compression? It seems odd to me that during the same year the US model which is practically the same had 10 more horsepower. The internals are really important since i will probably go turbo or JRSC with this car. Do you know who i could get in touch with to answer these questions? Is there a honda headquarters in europe maybe?
Oh yeah, and i'm in Lausanne, Switzerland. I've tried talking to the honda people here but they don't know.
Veetec
02-20-2002, 03:14 PM
Sorry, but I canīt help you with that and I think Honda germany canīt, too. Post your question in the Prelude forum. Iīm sure drift and fierce will help you out.
For a shop whoīs selling the JRSC you might want to have a look on our "List of european brands/ shops". Itīs on top of the europe forum.
Lausanne?? Iīd guess itīs the french part of switzerland, isnīt it!?
For a shop whoīs selling the JRSC you might want to have a look on our "List of european brands/ shops". Itīs on top of the europe forum.
Lausanne?? Iīd guess itīs the french part of switzerland, isnīt it!?
nuro
02-20-2002, 03:21 PM
yup, the french part. Where is this list of european shops you are talking about?
Veetec
02-20-2002, 03:33 PM
Originally posted by nuro
yup, the french part. Where is this list of european shops you are talking about? Itīs on top of the topics in the europe forum (in here)!
yup, the french part. Where is this list of european shops you are talking about? Itīs on top of the topics in the europe forum (in here)!
Goosse
02-20-2002, 04:31 PM
Hi, welcome to the forum. I don't know the exact difference between the engines, but sometimes car manufacturers detune engines for a local market. In Belgium we usualy get less hp then in Japan (for exemple). This is because of the tax. They drop the hp just enough so they get into a lower tax categorie.
AccordCE8
02-21-2002, 03:37 PM
Originally posted by nuro
thanks for the welcome, veetec. :D
what i'm interested in is what are the internal changes between the h22a5 and a4, or the h22a5 and a8. Cams? ECU? Compression? It seems odd to me that during the same year the US model which is practically the same had 10 more horsepower. The internals are really important since i will probably go turbo or JRSC with this car. Do you know who i could get in touch with to answer these questions? Is there a honda headquarters in europe maybe?
Oh yeah, and i'm in Lausanne, Switzerland. I've tried talking to the honda people here but they don't know.
The engine in my car also has some less bhp in the europe engine vs usa engine... mine has got 131 and usa 136 or something like that, bore, stroke etc. is all the same. Can't help you anymore than this.
Are those 4ws sold in Switserland? the 99 model is the latest prelude model I asume. In the Netherlands there isn't a 4ws of the latest prelude model.
thanks for the welcome, veetec. :D
what i'm interested in is what are the internal changes between the h22a5 and a4, or the h22a5 and a8. Cams? ECU? Compression? It seems odd to me that during the same year the US model which is practically the same had 10 more horsepower. The internals are really important since i will probably go turbo or JRSC with this car. Do you know who i could get in touch with to answer these questions? Is there a honda headquarters in europe maybe?
Oh yeah, and i'm in Lausanne, Switzerland. I've tried talking to the honda people here but they don't know.
The engine in my car also has some less bhp in the europe engine vs usa engine... mine has got 131 and usa 136 or something like that, bore, stroke etc. is all the same. Can't help you anymore than this.
Are those 4ws sold in Switserland? the 99 model is the latest prelude model I asume. In the Netherlands there isn't a 4ws of the latest prelude model.
nuro
02-21-2002, 03:47 PM
Are those 4ws sold in Switserland? the 99 model is the latest prelude model I asume. In the Netherlands there isn't a 4ws of the latest prelude model.
In switzerland we have three preludes, all produced from 1997-2001 (like US and japan). from 1997-99 we have h22a5 motors, and after its h22a8 which has 200hp. There is the Si (non-vtec) but i don't know about those. The VTEC models were the VTi 4WS or the VTi S. The VTi S is the equivalent of the american type SH which has the ATTS system, but are impossible to find here.
In switzerland we have three preludes, all produced from 1997-2001 (like US and japan). from 1997-99 we have h22a5 motors, and after its h22a8 which has 200hp. There is the Si (non-vtec) but i don't know about those. The VTEC models were the VTi 4WS or the VTi S. The VTi S is the equivalent of the american type SH which has the ATTS system, but are impossible to find here.
AccordCE8
02-21-2002, 04:22 PM
Originally posted by nuro
In switzerland we have three preludes, all produced from 1997-2001 (like US and japan). from 1997-99 we have h22a5 motors, and after its h22a8 which has 200hp. There is the Si (non-vtec) but i don't know about those. The VTEC models were the VTi 4WS or the VTi S. The VTi S is the equivalent of the american type SH which has the ATTS system, but are impossible to find here.
ATTS system? what's that?
In switzerland we have three preludes, all produced from 1997-2001 (like US and japan). from 1997-99 we have h22a5 motors, and after its h22a8 which has 200hp. There is the Si (non-vtec) but i don't know about those. The VTEC models were the VTi 4WS or the VTi S. The VTi S is the equivalent of the american type SH which has the ATTS system, but are impossible to find here.
ATTS system? what's that?
Veetec
02-21-2002, 09:27 PM
Originally posted by AccordCE8
ATTS system? what's that? ATTS means `Active-Torque-Transfer-Systemī but to be honest, I donīt know how to exlain it (what itīs doing) in english in the moment. :bloated: But Iīm sure youīll find and explaination in the Prelude forum.
The Si should be 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC with about 133hp. We didnīt had a Prelude with ATTS in germany and I think the 4WS one is really rare because I only know about one guy who has got one! Do you know if itīs a big difference if you have got 4WS compared to the base VTEC Lude (like mine ;) ). I mean I like my Prelude like it is but Iīm just wondering.
ATTS system? what's that? ATTS means `Active-Torque-Transfer-Systemī but to be honest, I donīt know how to exlain it (what itīs doing) in english in the moment. :bloated: But Iīm sure youīll find and explaination in the Prelude forum.
The Si should be 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC with about 133hp. We didnīt had a Prelude with ATTS in germany and I think the 4WS one is really rare because I only know about one guy who has got one! Do you know if itīs a big difference if you have got 4WS compared to the base VTEC Lude (like mine ;) ). I mean I like my Prelude like it is but Iīm just wondering.
nuro
02-22-2002, 10:33 AM
What ATTS does:
in a tight turn it puts 15% more torque and power to the outside front wheel. I've driven a prelude like this, you need to drive it hard for this to activate but you do feel it. Basically you hardly get understeer, you'd react somewhat like in a RWD car, when u predict you may get understeer you give it gas to activate the ATTS.
4WS discussion:
My prelude is a 5th gen with 4ws. I've driven a 5th gen without it and i've driven a 4th gen that has it, but disactivated. For pure speed the base model is better simply because the 4ws system means more weight. Now, because the 4ws is weight in the back of the car and it turns the back wheels you do get slightly better handling. With it disactivated, what i noticed on my friends 4th gen is it was easy to get into skids for some reason (however this could be specific to her car). The odd things about the sids is they were four-wheel skids and very easy to control! After driving these different models i came to a conclusion: 4WS is nice, but not something anyone NEEDS, and same with the ATTS system. Nice, but if you want great handling just get ties+sways and you'll outdo an ATTS prelude.
in a tight turn it puts 15% more torque and power to the outside front wheel. I've driven a prelude like this, you need to drive it hard for this to activate but you do feel it. Basically you hardly get understeer, you'd react somewhat like in a RWD car, when u predict you may get understeer you give it gas to activate the ATTS.
4WS discussion:
My prelude is a 5th gen with 4ws. I've driven a 5th gen without it and i've driven a 4th gen that has it, but disactivated. For pure speed the base model is better simply because the 4ws system means more weight. Now, because the 4ws is weight in the back of the car and it turns the back wheels you do get slightly better handling. With it disactivated, what i noticed on my friends 4th gen is it was easy to get into skids for some reason (however this could be specific to her car). The odd things about the sids is they were four-wheel skids and very easy to control! After driving these different models i came to a conclusion: 4WS is nice, but not something anyone NEEDS, and same with the ATTS system. Nice, but if you want great handling just get ties+sways and you'll outdo an ATTS prelude.
nuro
02-22-2002, 10:36 AM
This is because of the tax. They drop the hp just enough so they get into a lower tax categorie.
yeah, now wouldn't it be great to change the one or two pieces in your car to get the power that other countries might be getting? :D
yeah, now wouldn't it be great to change the one or two pieces in your car to get the power that other countries might be getting? :D
Veetec
02-22-2002, 11:08 AM
Originally posted by nuro
yeah, now wouldn't it be great to change the one or two pieces in your car to get the power that other countries might be getting? :D Of course it would be nice! But the only opportunity I have got with my ī00 VTEC Prelude is to get the JDM Type-S cams and Iīm not sure if that would be worth it compared to the price Iīd have to pay! Do you know where I could get the swaybar for my Lude in europe and what itīs price would be? Iīm also looking for indiglo gauges, a rear upper strut-tower bar without any pivoz points (ONE piece), steel braided brake lines and a good catback system! Any ideas?
yeah, now wouldn't it be great to change the one or two pieces in your car to get the power that other countries might be getting? :D Of course it would be nice! But the only opportunity I have got with my ī00 VTEC Prelude is to get the JDM Type-S cams and Iīm not sure if that would be worth it compared to the price Iīd have to pay! Do you know where I could get the swaybar for my Lude in europe and what itīs price would be? Iīm also looking for indiglo gauges, a rear upper strut-tower bar without any pivoz points (ONE piece), steel braided brake lines and a good catback system! Any ideas?
nuro
02-22-2002, 02:39 PM
Do what i'm doing. Import EVERYTHING from the US yourself. Get the brands that will give your car what it wants, not generic brands here. I will die the day i put a remus exhaust on my prelude. To me, it just doesnt seem right on a japanese car! For a catback, i'd suggest the greddy evo, tanabe racing medalion (LOUD!!!), mugen, spoon, Apexi N1. (personally i'm either buying the greddy or apexi).
Do not get the JDM type S cams!!!!! The JDM type S is a higher compression engine so if you think you will get the gains of a type S you are wrong. Get the crower stage 2 cams, those will give u the best gains on the prelude. I haven't decided yet but i think i might supercharge the prelude, in which case I shouldnt change cams at all.
I haven't looked into ties+sways yet, since i need to replace my shocks first, but i know that neuspeed/spoon/dc sport are good.
Brakelines - put NSX brakes on your lude! everthing will fit great :D
I just ordered a pair of reverse indiglo guages for 40 dollars. Indiglos can be even cheaper. www.ebay.com. make sure the seller ships internationally. procarparts.com also. The problem with these is you will have to cut the odometer/tripometer so it matches. Euro preleude gauges are the same except for the odometer and tripometer are switched, so one needs to be widened. The other obvious problem is that you will be seeing mph big and km/h small. Since i'm used to both, i didn't care and the guages i found were soo, soo, SOOOOO pretty!!!
I know "mulsanne" is a shop that does good things with japanese cars and has representations in france, switzerland, belgium, and other countries. I go there from time to time, and the people i have found know a LOT. Pricewise, all they are doing is importing pieces from Osaka or Los Angeles, which i can do myself thankyouverymuch! Sometimes they are cheaper though, but sometimes if i go about it myself, i can find it cheaper.
Where do you live Veetec, what can you legally do to your car? And if you dont care about the law, what do you want to do illegally?
Do not get the JDM type S cams!!!!! The JDM type S is a higher compression engine so if you think you will get the gains of a type S you are wrong. Get the crower stage 2 cams, those will give u the best gains on the prelude. I haven't decided yet but i think i might supercharge the prelude, in which case I shouldnt change cams at all.
I haven't looked into ties+sways yet, since i need to replace my shocks first, but i know that neuspeed/spoon/dc sport are good.
Brakelines - put NSX brakes on your lude! everthing will fit great :D
I just ordered a pair of reverse indiglo guages for 40 dollars. Indiglos can be even cheaper. www.ebay.com. make sure the seller ships internationally. procarparts.com also. The problem with these is you will have to cut the odometer/tripometer so it matches. Euro preleude gauges are the same except for the odometer and tripometer are switched, so one needs to be widened. The other obvious problem is that you will be seeing mph big and km/h small. Since i'm used to both, i didn't care and the guages i found were soo, soo, SOOOOO pretty!!!
I know "mulsanne" is a shop that does good things with japanese cars and has representations in france, switzerland, belgium, and other countries. I go there from time to time, and the people i have found know a LOT. Pricewise, all they are doing is importing pieces from Osaka or Los Angeles, which i can do myself thankyouverymuch! Sometimes they are cheaper though, but sometimes if i go about it myself, i can find it cheaper.
Where do you live Veetec, what can you legally do to your car? And if you dont care about the law, what do you want to do illegally?
AccordCE8
02-22-2002, 03:04 PM
A friend of mine had a prelude with 4ws, it drove really nice, sitting in the back seat really feels weird when cornering fast.
Now i know what atts is again, it's a better way than other car manufactures do, they have a kind of brake-assist which 'removes'power/grip... atts gives more power grip to the wheel that still has contact, nice system.
Do you have to pay import tax when importing stuf to your country? In the netherlands that is a quite big amount of money 2 pay which makes importing not attractive. Or do you know a smart way to don't have 2 pay import-tax?
Now i know what atts is again, it's a better way than other car manufactures do, they have a kind of brake-assist which 'removes'power/grip... atts gives more power grip to the wheel that still has contact, nice system.
Do you have to pay import tax when importing stuf to your country? In the netherlands that is a quite big amount of money 2 pay which makes importing not attractive. Or do you know a smart way to don't have 2 pay import-tax?
nuro
02-22-2002, 04:13 PM
I have to pay 10% import tax i think. Lets analyse this: Imagine i want to get a header for my prelude. DC sports header: 300 dollars. Shipping, lets be generous and say 100 dollars. Import tax: 30 dollars. If you don't want to do the install yourself i'm *guessing* you're gonna pay about another 100 dollars. Total : 530 dollars, plus you get *the* brand you want for your car. (DC ceramic headers YUM YUM YUM). Now i dont know how expensive stuff is where you live, but over here if i want a header i will pay, oh, 1100 swiss francs. Lets be generous again and say thats with install included. Lets say the dollar is at 1.65 to the swiss franc. I get 667 dollars for the price in switzerland. So going through the US just saved me at least 137 dollars. Now why would i ever want to suffer buying some B.S. brand here and hoping itll do something instead of buying an item that has been dyno-proven to give me X horsepower gain at a cheaper cost!!!
To answer your import tax question: if you know anyone in the US just ship it to them and have them ship it to you as a personal item/gift.
To answer your import tax question: if you know anyone in the US just ship it to them and have them ship it to you as a personal item/gift.
nuro
02-22-2002, 04:18 PM
ATTS is a good answer to the understeer problem of FWD cars. Correct me if i'm wrong, but i think the new toyota celica has something similar to the ATTS system. I don't know of ANY car manufacturer that does the brake/assist for front wheel drive cars though (RWD or AWD, ok). Also, brake/assist is dumb IMHO, i like to be in control of my car. When i was driving my friends 310 horsepower Camaro, i took the traction control off.
Veetec
02-23-2002, 08:35 AM
Originally posted by nuro
Do what i'm doing. Import EVERYTHING from the US yourself. Get the brands that will give your car what it wants, not generic brands here. I will die the day i put a remus exhaust on my prelude. To me, it just doesnt seem right on a japanese car! For a catback, i'd suggest the greddy evo, tanabe racing medalion (LOUD!!!), mugen, spoon, Apexi N1. (personally i'm either buying the greddy or apexi).
Do not get the JDM type S cams!!!!! The JDM type S is a higher compression engine so if you think you will get the gains of a type S you are wrong. Get the crower stage 2 cams, those will give u the best gains on the prelude. I haven't decided yet but i think i might supercharge the prelude, in which case I shouldnt change cams at all.
I haven't looked into ties+sways yet, since i need to replace my shocks first, but i know that neuspeed/spoon/dc sport are good.
Brakelines - put NSX brakes on your lude! everthing will fit great :D
I just ordered a pair of reverse indiglo guages for 40 dollars. Indiglos can be even cheaper. www.ebay.com. make sure the seller ships internationally. procarparts.com also. The problem with these is you will have to cut the odometer/tripometer so it matches. Euro preleude gauges are the same except for the odometer and tripometer are switched, so one needs to be widened. The other obvious problem is that you will be seeing mph big and km/h small. Since i'm used to both, i didn't care and the guages i found were soo, soo, SOOOOO pretty!!!
I know "mulsanne" is a shop that does good things with japanese cars and has representations in france, switzerland, belgium, and other countries. I go there from time to time, and the people i have found know a LOT. Pricewise, all they are doing is importing pieces from Osaka or Los Angeles, which i can do myself thankyouverymuch! Sometimes they are cheaper though, but sometimes if i go about it myself, i can find it cheaper.
Where do you live Veetec, what can you legally do to your car? And if you dont care about the law, what do you want to do illegally? But importing everything from the states means that every order will need between 3-8 weeks to arrive here and if anything is wrong or doesnīt fit Iīm in big trouble. But at the end youīre right. It would be cheaper most of the time.
I was thinking about the Mugen system, Thermal R&D (??) or the DC-Sports catback system. But in the moment Iīm low on funds anyways.:(
Iīll never go and buy new cams or stuff like that. I was thinking about the JRSC either but like Iīve already said....Iīm totally broke in the moment! But this would be the way to go for me.
NSX brakes? Will they fit with the 16" stock rims? And Iīd guess that this would be hella expensive.
About suspension: Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed. Iīm just waiting for my Neuspeed fron upper strut-tower bar. If you want to buy one either then go with Spoon or Neuspeed. They are offering the best strut-tower bars for 5th gen Preludes.
Iīm living in germany in a city called "Aachen". Laws are very strict over here. But I donīt have got big plans in the moment anyways. Like Iīve said Iīm looking for better brakes and an exhaust system because I donīt like the fake exhaust tips which are coming stock with the Prelude. But I donīt want it to become too loud on the other site. I just have to wait till Iīve saved up some money again first.
So indiglo gauges donīt fit well on european Preludes or what do you mean?
Do what i'm doing. Import EVERYTHING from the US yourself. Get the brands that will give your car what it wants, not generic brands here. I will die the day i put a remus exhaust on my prelude. To me, it just doesnt seem right on a japanese car! For a catback, i'd suggest the greddy evo, tanabe racing medalion (LOUD!!!), mugen, spoon, Apexi N1. (personally i'm either buying the greddy or apexi).
Do not get the JDM type S cams!!!!! The JDM type S is a higher compression engine so if you think you will get the gains of a type S you are wrong. Get the crower stage 2 cams, those will give u the best gains on the prelude. I haven't decided yet but i think i might supercharge the prelude, in which case I shouldnt change cams at all.
I haven't looked into ties+sways yet, since i need to replace my shocks first, but i know that neuspeed/spoon/dc sport are good.
Brakelines - put NSX brakes on your lude! everthing will fit great :D
I just ordered a pair of reverse indiglo guages for 40 dollars. Indiglos can be even cheaper. www.ebay.com. make sure the seller ships internationally. procarparts.com also. The problem with these is you will have to cut the odometer/tripometer so it matches. Euro preleude gauges are the same except for the odometer and tripometer are switched, so one needs to be widened. The other obvious problem is that you will be seeing mph big and km/h small. Since i'm used to both, i didn't care and the guages i found were soo, soo, SOOOOO pretty!!!
I know "mulsanne" is a shop that does good things with japanese cars and has representations in france, switzerland, belgium, and other countries. I go there from time to time, and the people i have found know a LOT. Pricewise, all they are doing is importing pieces from Osaka or Los Angeles, which i can do myself thankyouverymuch! Sometimes they are cheaper though, but sometimes if i go about it myself, i can find it cheaper.
Where do you live Veetec, what can you legally do to your car? And if you dont care about the law, what do you want to do illegally? But importing everything from the states means that every order will need between 3-8 weeks to arrive here and if anything is wrong or doesnīt fit Iīm in big trouble. But at the end youīre right. It would be cheaper most of the time.
I was thinking about the Mugen system, Thermal R&D (??) or the DC-Sports catback system. But in the moment Iīm low on funds anyways.:(
Iīll never go and buy new cams or stuff like that. I was thinking about the JRSC either but like Iīve already said....Iīm totally broke in the moment! But this would be the way to go for me.
NSX brakes? Will they fit with the 16" stock rims? And Iīd guess that this would be hella expensive.
About suspension: Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed. Iīm just waiting for my Neuspeed fron upper strut-tower bar. If you want to buy one either then go with Spoon or Neuspeed. They are offering the best strut-tower bars for 5th gen Preludes.
Iīm living in germany in a city called "Aachen". Laws are very strict over here. But I donīt have got big plans in the moment anyways. Like Iīve said Iīm looking for better brakes and an exhaust system because I donīt like the fake exhaust tips which are coming stock with the Prelude. But I donīt want it to become too loud on the other site. I just have to wait till Iīve saved up some money again first.
So indiglo gauges donīt fit well on european Preludes or what do you mean?
nuro
02-23-2002, 12:40 PM
But importing everything from the states means that every order will need between 3-8 weeks to arrive here and if anything is wrong or doesnīt fit Iīm in big trouble.
1. patience is a virtue :D
2. if you order the best stuff, it will fit. have faith. :)
I was thinking about the Mugen system, Thermal R&D (??) or the DC-Sports catback system.
Forgot to mention thermal. my bad.
NSX brakes? Will they fit with the 16" stock rims? And Iīd guess that this would be hella expensive.
NSX brakes do in fact fit on stock rims, but double chekc with a honda dealer. For the price, i have no idea.
Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed.
Good choices :D . I'm gonna order koni yellows (those are the 5 way adjustable ones, right?) and i have H+R springs on.
Laws are very strict over here.
they are here too. i feel your pain.
So indiglo gauges donīt fit well on european Preludes or what do you mean?
Indiglo guages from the US have these problems:
1. you no longer have the outer rim of your speedometer measured in km/h, but in miles per hour. the inner rim is usually in km/h
2. our odometer (the # of kilometers you have travelled) and the resettable odometer (i call it the tripometer) slots are reversed. So we have a narrow slot on top, and a wide one on the bottom. You will have to widen the one on top with a knife.
If you order indiglo guages made for the european prelude, you wont encounter these problems.
I'll warn you in advance about another thing too: sometimes people experience problems with these. You could have them professionally installed, but that costs money (i odnt know how much). Or you could do it yourself and be VERY VERY careful. Read: DO NOT TAKE OFF THE NEEDLES. Gently work the guages around them. make sure it fits right or you might get a sticky tach.
1. patience is a virtue :D
2. if you order the best stuff, it will fit. have faith. :)
I was thinking about the Mugen system, Thermal R&D (??) or the DC-Sports catback system.
Forgot to mention thermal. my bad.
NSX brakes? Will they fit with the 16" stock rims? And Iīd guess that this would be hella expensive.
NSX brakes do in fact fit on stock rims, but double chekc with a honda dealer. For the price, i have no idea.
Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed.
Good choices :D . I'm gonna order koni yellows (those are the 5 way adjustable ones, right?) and i have H+R springs on.
Laws are very strict over here.
they are here too. i feel your pain.
So indiglo gauges donīt fit well on european Preludes or what do you mean?
Indiglo guages from the US have these problems:
1. you no longer have the outer rim of your speedometer measured in km/h, but in miles per hour. the inner rim is usually in km/h
2. our odometer (the # of kilometers you have travelled) and the resettable odometer (i call it the tripometer) slots are reversed. So we have a narrow slot on top, and a wide one on the bottom. You will have to widen the one on top with a knife.
If you order indiglo guages made for the european prelude, you wont encounter these problems.
I'll warn you in advance about another thing too: sometimes people experience problems with these. You could have them professionally installed, but that costs money (i odnt know how much). Or you could do it yourself and be VERY VERY careful. Read: DO NOT TAKE OFF THE NEEDLES. Gently work the guages around them. make sure it fits right or you might get a sticky tach.
AccordCE8
02-23-2002, 01:41 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
About suspension: Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed. Iīm just waiting for my Neuspeed fron upper strut-tower bar. If you want to buy one either then go with Spoon or Neuspeed. They are offering the best strut-tower bars for 5th gen Preludes.
Where did you get your neuspeed upper strut-bar and how much does it cost you? What I found out it was all together about $200 or so for my car, quite costly :(
About suspension: Koni yellows and Eibach springs are already installed. Iīm just waiting for my Neuspeed fron upper strut-tower bar. If you want to buy one either then go with Spoon or Neuspeed. They are offering the best strut-tower bars for 5th gen Preludes.
Where did you get your neuspeed upper strut-bar and how much does it cost you? What I found out it was all together about $200 or so for my car, quite costly :(
Veetec
02-23-2002, 04:23 PM
Iīm already waiting for about 4 or 5 weeks and my Neuspeed strut-tower bar is still not here. And itīs possible that it will still take 4-8 weeks because Neuspeed isnīt able to produce enough for the 5th gen Prelude. Too many people want one.:(
Iīm looking for a carback system which isnīt too loud so the Thermal system seems to be the best bet for me. Iīd really like to get the Mugen system but itīs damn expensive!
I think itīll be fine with me that the outer rim of the speedo is in miles as long as the inner one is in km/h.
But are there any indiglo gauges for the european Prelude?
Iīm looking for a carback system which isnīt too loud so the Thermal system seems to be the best bet for me. Iīd really like to get the Mugen system but itīs damn expensive!
I think itīll be fine with me that the outer rim of the speedo is in miles as long as the inner one is in km/h.
But are there any indiglo gauges for the european Prelude?
nuro
02-24-2002, 12:11 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
Iīm already waiting for about 4 or 5 weeks and my Neuspeed strut-tower bar is still not here. And itīs possible that it will still take 4-8 weeks because Neuspeed isnīt able to produce enough for the 5th gen Prelude. Too many people want one.:(
Iīm looking for a carback system which isnīt too loud so the Thermal system seems to be the best bet for me. Iīd really like to get the Mugen system but itīs damn expensive!
I think itīll be fine with me that the outer rim of the speedo is in miles as long as the inner one is in km/h.
But are there any indiglo gauges for the european Prelude?
veetec you should send me your email addy (to [email protected]) so we can keep in touch.
i have the catback system problem too. What is the decibel (dBA) level you are restricted to? mine is 74, which is a real pain since the US is 95... Thermal and apexi are both relatively silent though! I really want the greddy because of performance.
I know some companies make guages for the european prelude, i saw it in a catalogue in a Mulsanne shop, but if you are OK with the difficulties i told you about fitting US ones, then you should have no problem. the best indiglo guages i know of are at procarparts.com. you will have to widen the odometer hole with a knife and the km/h is in the middle. If you arent buying soon, you can wait till i do mine and i can tell you / show you pics of how it turns out. go to www.ebay.com and search for "prelude indiglo" and look at what you find, thatll give u a good idea of the US market for them.
Iīm already waiting for about 4 or 5 weeks and my Neuspeed strut-tower bar is still not here. And itīs possible that it will still take 4-8 weeks because Neuspeed isnīt able to produce enough for the 5th gen Prelude. Too many people want one.:(
Iīm looking for a carback system which isnīt too loud so the Thermal system seems to be the best bet for me. Iīd really like to get the Mugen system but itīs damn expensive!
I think itīll be fine with me that the outer rim of the speedo is in miles as long as the inner one is in km/h.
But are there any indiglo gauges for the european Prelude?
veetec you should send me your email addy (to [email protected]) so we can keep in touch.
i have the catback system problem too. What is the decibel (dBA) level you are restricted to? mine is 74, which is a real pain since the US is 95... Thermal and apexi are both relatively silent though! I really want the greddy because of performance.
I know some companies make guages for the european prelude, i saw it in a catalogue in a Mulsanne shop, but if you are OK with the difficulties i told you about fitting US ones, then you should have no problem. the best indiglo guages i know of are at procarparts.com. you will have to widen the odometer hole with a knife and the km/h is in the middle. If you arent buying soon, you can wait till i do mine and i can tell you / show you pics of how it turns out. go to www.ebay.com and search for "prelude indiglo" and look at what you find, thatll give u a good idea of the US market for them.
Veetec
02-24-2002, 07:47 AM
Originally posted by nuro
veetec you should send me your email addy (to [email protected]) so we can keep in touch.
i have the catback system problem too. What is the decibel (dBA) level you are restricted to? mine is 74, which is a real pain since the US is 95... Thermal and apexi are both relatively silent though! I really want the greddy because of performance.
I know some companies make guages for the european prelude, i saw it in a catalogue in a Mulsanne shop, but if you are OK with the difficulties i told you about fitting US ones, then you should have no problem. the best indiglo guages i know of are at procarparts.com. you will have to widen the odometer hole with a knife and the km/h is in the middle. If you arent buying soon, you can wait till i do mine and i can tell you / show you pics of how it turns out. go to www.ebay.com and search for "prelude indiglo" and look at what you find, thatll give u a good idea of the US market for them. E-mail is on its way! :)
I really dunno to what decibel level I am restricted to but Iīd guess itīll be about the same like yours. But like Iīve already said I donīt want it to be too loud anyways. A lot of people from the Prelude forum (like drift) recommend the Thermal R&D Classic (not sure about the name) but itīll depend on the price for me, too. Is the greddy one better??
With the indiglo gauges, Iīm not going to buy them soon. So I think Iīll just wait till you got yours!;)
What other mods have you already done to your Prelude? We will get a new shop over here in germany which will import everything you want from the USA (and japan?)!! Itīll open at the 7th of march. :smoka:
veetec you should send me your email addy (to [email protected]) so we can keep in touch.
i have the catback system problem too. What is the decibel (dBA) level you are restricted to? mine is 74, which is a real pain since the US is 95... Thermal and apexi are both relatively silent though! I really want the greddy because of performance.
I know some companies make guages for the european prelude, i saw it in a catalogue in a Mulsanne shop, but if you are OK with the difficulties i told you about fitting US ones, then you should have no problem. the best indiglo guages i know of are at procarparts.com. you will have to widen the odometer hole with a knife and the km/h is in the middle. If you arent buying soon, you can wait till i do mine and i can tell you / show you pics of how it turns out. go to www.ebay.com and search for "prelude indiglo" and look at what you find, thatll give u a good idea of the US market for them. E-mail is on its way! :)
I really dunno to what decibel level I am restricted to but Iīd guess itīll be about the same like yours. But like Iīve already said I donīt want it to be too loud anyways. A lot of people from the Prelude forum (like drift) recommend the Thermal R&D Classic (not sure about the name) but itīll depend on the price for me, too. Is the greddy one better??
With the indiglo gauges, Iīm not going to buy them soon. So I think Iīll just wait till you got yours!;)
What other mods have you already done to your Prelude? We will get a new shop over here in germany which will import everything you want from the USA (and japan?)!! Itīll open at the 7th of march. :smoka:
Veetec
02-25-2002, 12:23 PM
By the way, are you riding on stock rims/ tires? If yes, how much air do you put into them? :confused:
nuro
02-25-2002, 02:39 PM
So far im putting 35 psi in my tires because it feels right, but i could be totally wrong.
Thermal, spoon, mugen, greddy, apexi are all great brands. The thermal is well-praised, but exhausts are very opinion-based thins, not fact. However, lots of people agree that the greddy evo is the best choice based on how much more power it will give you. On top of that it has a gorgeous deep noise. The only thing people have not liked about it is that the tip is big, 115 mm.
You gotta tell me about this shop in germany, i might have to go visit there!!!
Ive only had my prelude a month:
it has H+R springs, summer OZ rims (17x205), alpine CD deck, apexi rev/speed meter. My next buys are the bass for the stereo (sub+amp) and the greddy evo (and the reverse indiglo guages). After that i will consider koni yellows and seriously consider what direction my engine will go: NA (crower cams and such... and maybe with NOS) or JRSC. I am completely avoiding turbo because i cant afford the risk involved.
Keep me updated on the shop opening there i0d love to know what they have-what they can import, and what the prices are. Ill make a post here or write you an email when i do my guages.
Thermal, spoon, mugen, greddy, apexi are all great brands. The thermal is well-praised, but exhausts are very opinion-based thins, not fact. However, lots of people agree that the greddy evo is the best choice based on how much more power it will give you. On top of that it has a gorgeous deep noise. The only thing people have not liked about it is that the tip is big, 115 mm.
You gotta tell me about this shop in germany, i might have to go visit there!!!
Ive only had my prelude a month:
it has H+R springs, summer OZ rims (17x205), alpine CD deck, apexi rev/speed meter. My next buys are the bass for the stereo (sub+amp) and the greddy evo (and the reverse indiglo guages). After that i will consider koni yellows and seriously consider what direction my engine will go: NA (crower cams and such... and maybe with NOS) or JRSC. I am completely avoiding turbo because i cant afford the risk involved.
Keep me updated on the shop opening there i0d love to know what they have-what they can import, and what the prices are. Ill make a post here or write you an email when i do my guages.
Veetec
02-26-2002, 10:17 AM
Originally posted by nuro
So far im putting 35 psi in my tires because it feels right, but i could be totally wrong.
Thermal, spoon, mugen, greddy, apexi are all great brands. The thermal is well-praised, but exhausts are very opinion-based thins, not fact. However, lots of people agree that the greddy evo is the best choice based on how much more power it will give you. On top of that it has a gorgeous deep noise. The only thing people have not liked about it is that the tip is big, 115 mm.
You gotta tell me about this shop in germany, i might have to go visit there!!!
Ive only had my prelude a month:
it has H+R springs, summer OZ rims (17x205), alpine CD deck, apexi rev/speed meter. My next buys are the bass for the stereo (sub+amp) and the greddy evo (and the reverse indiglo guages). After that i will consider koni yellows and seriously consider what direction my engine will go: NA (crower cams and such... and maybe with NOS) or JRSC. I am completely avoiding turbo because i cant afford the risk involved.
Keep me updated on the shop opening there i0d love to know what they have-what they can import, and what the prices are. Ill make a post here or write you an email when i do my guages. Iīm asking about the pressure because Iīve checked my tires yesterday and put the recommend air into them but after that the handling of my car became worser than before. IMO I had a better grip when I was using lesser air in them.
115mm with the Greddy Evo?? I can see very well why people donīt like it that much. Itīs too big for me either because Iīm more an "understatement person". ;) Iīm looking more for a decent exhaust with a good quality. A 5Zigen exhaust system would be nice, too. But I dunno about their quality and sound. So the Mugen one will still be my favorite while itīll be too expensive for me. :(
Iīve bought my Lude in january, too. Mods so far are Eibach springs, Koni yellows and the Neuspeed strut-tower bar and white turning lights are on the way. Iīve also bought a Blaupunkt sound system (??) while using the stock speakers. A K&N drop-in filter will be ordered soon, too. And then I have to see how much money Iīll have to spend. The only "bigger" thing Iīd do with my engine is to buy a JRSC. But in the moment Iīm really satisfied with my car/ engine. The only thing I really donīt like are the many scratches which are all over my car. Itīll be polished professionally in one or two months and some parts will even be repainted but Iīm not sure how the rest is going to look after it!? (yea, my english is terrible again today!:bloated: )
Of course Iīll keep all of you updated about the new shop. The owner told me that he will get everything from the US . From VIS-Racing bodykits (which are offering a nice knock-off of the Mugen kit for our Ludes) over Mugen parts to the JRSC! Everything should be possible.:)
So far im putting 35 psi in my tires because it feels right, but i could be totally wrong.
Thermal, spoon, mugen, greddy, apexi are all great brands. The thermal is well-praised, but exhausts are very opinion-based thins, not fact. However, lots of people agree that the greddy evo is the best choice based on how much more power it will give you. On top of that it has a gorgeous deep noise. The only thing people have not liked about it is that the tip is big, 115 mm.
You gotta tell me about this shop in germany, i might have to go visit there!!!
Ive only had my prelude a month:
it has H+R springs, summer OZ rims (17x205), alpine CD deck, apexi rev/speed meter. My next buys are the bass for the stereo (sub+amp) and the greddy evo (and the reverse indiglo guages). After that i will consider koni yellows and seriously consider what direction my engine will go: NA (crower cams and such... and maybe with NOS) or JRSC. I am completely avoiding turbo because i cant afford the risk involved.
Keep me updated on the shop opening there i0d love to know what they have-what they can import, and what the prices are. Ill make a post here or write you an email when i do my guages. Iīm asking about the pressure because Iīve checked my tires yesterday and put the recommend air into them but after that the handling of my car became worser than before. IMO I had a better grip when I was using lesser air in them.
115mm with the Greddy Evo?? I can see very well why people donīt like it that much. Itīs too big for me either because Iīm more an "understatement person". ;) Iīm looking more for a decent exhaust with a good quality. A 5Zigen exhaust system would be nice, too. But I dunno about their quality and sound. So the Mugen one will still be my favorite while itīll be too expensive for me. :(
Iīve bought my Lude in january, too. Mods so far are Eibach springs, Koni yellows and the Neuspeed strut-tower bar and white turning lights are on the way. Iīve also bought a Blaupunkt sound system (??) while using the stock speakers. A K&N drop-in filter will be ordered soon, too. And then I have to see how much money Iīll have to spend. The only "bigger" thing Iīd do with my engine is to buy a JRSC. But in the moment Iīm really satisfied with my car/ engine. The only thing I really donīt like are the many scratches which are all over my car. Itīll be polished professionally in one or two months and some parts will even be repainted but Iīm not sure how the rest is going to look after it!? (yea, my english is terrible again today!:bloated: )
Of course Iīll keep all of you updated about the new shop. The owner told me that he will get everything from the US . From VIS-Racing bodykits (which are offering a nice knock-off of the Mugen kit for our Ludes) over Mugen parts to the JRSC! Everything should be possible.:)
nuro
02-26-2002, 05:51 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Iīm asking about the pressure because Iīve checked my tires yesterday and put the recommend air into them but after that the handling of my car became worser than before. IMO I had a better grip when I was using lesser air in them.
115mm with the Greddy Evo?? I can see very well why people donīt like it that much. Itīs too big for me either because Iīm more an "understatement person". ;) Iīm looking more for a decent exhaust with a good quality. A 5Zigen exhaust system would be nice, too. But I dunno about their quality and sound. So the Mugen one will still be my favorite while itīll be too expensive for me. :(
Iīve bought my Lude in january, too. Mods so far are Eibach springs, Koni yellows and the Neuspeed strut-tower bar and white turning lights are on the way. Iīve also bought a Blaupunkt sound system (??) while using the stock speakers. A K&N drop-in filter will be ordered soon, too. And then I have to see how much money Iīll have to spend. The only "bigger" thing Iīd do with my engine is to buy a JRSC. But in the moment Iīm really satisfied with my car/ engine. The only thing I really donīt like are the many scratches which are all over my car. Itīll be polished professionally in one or two months and some parts will even be repainted but Iīm not sure how the rest is going to look after it!? (yea, my english is terrible again today!:bloated: )
Of course Iīll keep all of you updated about the new shop. The owner told me that he will get everything from the US . From VIS-Racing bodykits (which are offering a nice knock-off of the Mugen kit for our Ludes) over Mugen parts to the JRSC! Everything should be possible.:)
yeah the greddy evo is your typical rice-boy looking exhaust. but i really dont mind cuz i am addicted to the sound, especially the crossover to vtec. if you want to stay subtle, but have a little more exhaust tone, the thermal is def. the choice for you.
when you go visit this shop, definetely tell me what our options are for the lude! this could be a great thing...
How is your ride with the koni yellows? i heard its pretty harsh if you have springs like mine (H+R or Neuspeed)
Is the K&N filter you are talking about something you put in the stock airbox?
I was thinking the other day: why not do it the right way and get an AEM Cold Air Intake? You could cut your stock airbox and buy stock piping from a car with a larger intake and sleeve it over the AEM CAI. That way it will be TOTALLY hidden, and you will get the great power from it.
How often do you wax your car?
What are good products for wash+wax?
Iīm asking about the pressure because Iīve checked my tires yesterday and put the recommend air into them but after that the handling of my car became worser than before. IMO I had a better grip when I was using lesser air in them.
115mm with the Greddy Evo?? I can see very well why people donīt like it that much. Itīs too big for me either because Iīm more an "understatement person". ;) Iīm looking more for a decent exhaust with a good quality. A 5Zigen exhaust system would be nice, too. But I dunno about their quality and sound. So the Mugen one will still be my favorite while itīll be too expensive for me. :(
Iīve bought my Lude in january, too. Mods so far are Eibach springs, Koni yellows and the Neuspeed strut-tower bar and white turning lights are on the way. Iīve also bought a Blaupunkt sound system (??) while using the stock speakers. A K&N drop-in filter will be ordered soon, too. And then I have to see how much money Iīll have to spend. The only "bigger" thing Iīd do with my engine is to buy a JRSC. But in the moment Iīm really satisfied with my car/ engine. The only thing I really donīt like are the many scratches which are all over my car. Itīll be polished professionally in one or two months and some parts will even be repainted but Iīm not sure how the rest is going to look after it!? (yea, my english is terrible again today!:bloated: )
Of course Iīll keep all of you updated about the new shop. The owner told me that he will get everything from the US . From VIS-Racing bodykits (which are offering a nice knock-off of the Mugen kit for our Ludes) over Mugen parts to the JRSC! Everything should be possible.:)
yeah the greddy evo is your typical rice-boy looking exhaust. but i really dont mind cuz i am addicted to the sound, especially the crossover to vtec. if you want to stay subtle, but have a little more exhaust tone, the thermal is def. the choice for you.
when you go visit this shop, definetely tell me what our options are for the lude! this could be a great thing...
How is your ride with the koni yellows? i heard its pretty harsh if you have springs like mine (H+R or Neuspeed)
Is the K&N filter you are talking about something you put in the stock airbox?
I was thinking the other day: why not do it the right way and get an AEM Cold Air Intake? You could cut your stock airbox and buy stock piping from a car with a larger intake and sleeve it over the AEM CAI. That way it will be TOTALLY hidden, and you will get the great power from it.
How often do you wax your car?
What are good products for wash+wax?
Veetec
02-27-2002, 07:18 AM
I donīt think that Iīll visit the shop in the next time because the owner already told me that we can get everything we want and it will have got a website, too. But I have to see...:)
Iīve got Koni yellows and Eibach springs but it doesnīt feel harsh! I didnīt put them on the stiffest level so that itīs still really comfortable.
Yea, you put the K&N filter into the stock box! The reason why I donīt want to buy a CAI anymore are posts like this one from hondaprelude.com : `Re: AEM CAI...
Hey you want the real truth about intakes! THEY DO NOT ADD HORSE POWER TO THE WHEELS! The only thing that a cold air intake is good for is to help the engine run more efficiently!! Same thing with spark plugs and ignition systems and supposedly performance wires, none of these things add horsepower! To be plane and simple depending on your car the intakes will have a tendencey to trip an engine code because your giving your engine more air through the intake than what was originally programmed.Intakes actually make your car slower untill you hit your higher rpms and don't actually give you your horsepower untill you have reached your peak! The most horsepower if any you will ever gain from an intake is no more than 9 Yes many intake companies will try to fool you with fake dyno charts and garuntee yoyu at least 10 to 15 horsepower! Thats BS and so is the little Tornado Fan that you can buy for under a 100 bucks waste of money!ī
I havenīt waxed my car yet because I want it to be polished first and I didnīt had much time since I got it. But I think most of these scratches will stay anyways!:eek: :(
Iīve got Koni yellows and Eibach springs but it doesnīt feel harsh! I didnīt put them on the stiffest level so that itīs still really comfortable.
Yea, you put the K&N filter into the stock box! The reason why I donīt want to buy a CAI anymore are posts like this one from hondaprelude.com : `Re: AEM CAI...
Hey you want the real truth about intakes! THEY DO NOT ADD HORSE POWER TO THE WHEELS! The only thing that a cold air intake is good for is to help the engine run more efficiently!! Same thing with spark plugs and ignition systems and supposedly performance wires, none of these things add horsepower! To be plane and simple depending on your car the intakes will have a tendencey to trip an engine code because your giving your engine more air through the intake than what was originally programmed.Intakes actually make your car slower untill you hit your higher rpms and don't actually give you your horsepower untill you have reached your peak! The most horsepower if any you will ever gain from an intake is no more than 9 Yes many intake companies will try to fool you with fake dyno charts and garuntee yoyu at least 10 to 15 horsepower! Thats BS and so is the little Tornado Fan that you can buy for under a 100 bucks waste of money!ī
I havenīt waxed my car yet because I want it to be polished first and I didnīt had much time since I got it. But I think most of these scratches will stay anyways!:eek: :(
Veetec
02-27-2002, 07:48 AM
I forgot to say that 5th gen Preludes have got a kind of a "built in CAI"! The stock airbox seems to be very good so that you just have to remove the resonator and put a K&N drop-in filter into it. Somebody told me that an AEM CAI wonīt give you much more horsepower than this way. Just have a look at the Prelude forum. The post should still be somewhere in there!
Itīs damn nice that there is another 5th gen driver from europe in here now!!!!:) :) :)
Itīs damn nice that there is another 5th gen driver from europe in here now!!!!:) :) :)
Predator
02-27-2002, 08:47 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
Re: AEM CAI...
Hey you want the real truth about intakes! THEY DO NOT ADD HORSE POWER TO THE WHEELS! The only thing that a cold air intake is good for is to help the engine run more efficiently!! Same thing with spark plugs and ignition systems and supposedly performance wires, none of these things add horsepower! To be plane and simple depending on your car the intakes will have a tendencey to trip an engine code because your giving your engine more air through the intake than what was originally programmed.Intakes actually make your car slower untill you hit your higher rpms and don't actually give you your horsepower untill you have reached your peak! The most horsepower if any you will ever gain from an intake is no more than 9 Yes many intake companies will try to fool you with fake dyno charts and garuntee yoyu at least 10 to 15 horsepower! Thats BS and so is the little Tornado Fan that you can buy for under a 100 bucks waste of money!
Sorry, but I dont think that the mass of dynos done buy the drivers itself are faked!
Ok it is really hard to get a gain of 20hp from a CAI especially if u already have a lot of boltons but u will gain some hps- how much really depends on the engine setup. If u have already tuned the hell out of it u wont see a big gain but if u didnt anythiing u will fell the difference. Maybe the stock intake of the lude is much better than this one the Civic has but u wont losse hp anywhere!
Re: AEM CAI...
Hey you want the real truth about intakes! THEY DO NOT ADD HORSE POWER TO THE WHEELS! The only thing that a cold air intake is good for is to help the engine run more efficiently!! Same thing with spark plugs and ignition systems and supposedly performance wires, none of these things add horsepower! To be plane and simple depending on your car the intakes will have a tendencey to trip an engine code because your giving your engine more air through the intake than what was originally programmed.Intakes actually make your car slower untill you hit your higher rpms and don't actually give you your horsepower untill you have reached your peak! The most horsepower if any you will ever gain from an intake is no more than 9 Yes many intake companies will try to fool you with fake dyno charts and garuntee yoyu at least 10 to 15 horsepower! Thats BS and so is the little Tornado Fan that you can buy for under a 100 bucks waste of money!
Sorry, but I dont think that the mass of dynos done buy the drivers itself are faked!
Ok it is really hard to get a gain of 20hp from a CAI especially if u already have a lot of boltons but u will gain some hps- how much really depends on the engine setup. If u have already tuned the hell out of it u wont see a big gain but if u didnt anythiing u will fell the difference. Maybe the stock intake of the lude is much better than this one the Civic has but u wont losse hp anywhere!
Veetec
02-27-2002, 02:26 PM
Originally posted by Predator
Sorry, but I dont think that the mass of dynos done buy the drivers itself are faked!
Ok it is really hard to get a gain of 20hp from a CAI especially if u already have a lot of boltons but u will gain some hps- how much really depends on the engine setup. If u have already tuned the hell out of it u wont see a big gain but if u didnt anythiing u will fell the difference. Maybe the stock intake of the lude is much better than this one the Civic has but u wont losse hp anywhere! Of course you will feel a difference in power but you have to rev really high. Youīve missed the message of the post Iīd guess!;)
Sorry, but I dont think that the mass of dynos done buy the drivers itself are faked!
Ok it is really hard to get a gain of 20hp from a CAI especially if u already have a lot of boltons but u will gain some hps- how much really depends on the engine setup. If u have already tuned the hell out of it u wont see a big gain but if u didnt anythiing u will fell the difference. Maybe the stock intake of the lude is much better than this one the Civic has but u wont losse hp anywhere! Of course you will feel a difference in power but you have to rev really high. Youīve missed the message of the post Iīd guess!;)
Predator
02-28-2002, 09:04 AM
But at least I dont think the dynos are faked- and he said thet u will loose power inthe lower rpm range- I dont think that but doesnt matter, I think u simply neednt this ..... if u have 200hp :P
nuro
02-28-2002, 03:31 PM
ok well when you know what you can get at the shop please let me know.
i disagree with you on the intakes because members of prelude communities have tried+tested with intakes, and they do add horses.
short rams will add torque, cold air (AEM ONLY) will add horsepower at higher RPMs. As far as 1/4 mile times (400m) you will go slower with a short ram (compared to stock) and faster with a CAI (compared to stock). read the user-written reviews at www.ntpog.org.
what i think i will do is get a larger intake tube (stock from some other car) and put a K&N in my airbox... we'll see
i disagree with you on the intakes because members of prelude communities have tried+tested with intakes, and they do add horses.
short rams will add torque, cold air (AEM ONLY) will add horsepower at higher RPMs. As far as 1/4 mile times (400m) you will go slower with a short ram (compared to stock) and faster with a CAI (compared to stock). read the user-written reviews at www.ntpog.org.
what i think i will do is get a larger intake tube (stock from some other car) and put a K&N in my airbox... we'll see
Veetec
02-28-2002, 03:56 PM
Originally posted by nuro
ok well when you know what you can get at the shop please let me know.
i disagree with you on the intakes because members of prelude communities have tried+tested with intakes, and they do add horses.
short rams will add torque, cold air (AEM ONLY) will add horsepower at higher RPMs. As far as 1/4 mile times (400m) you will go slower with a short ram (compared to stock) and faster with a CAI (compared to stock). read the user-written reviews at www.ntpog.org.
what i think i will do is get a larger intake tube (stock from some other car) and put a K&N in my airbox... we'll see WAIT! Iīve never said that a CAI wonīt add horsepower! The `Re: AEM CAI...ī text is from a member of hondaprelude.com. And a lot of people told me the same. It WILL add horsepower but only at the high end and the low end will suffer a little bit. But I donīt want to lose power in the low end because Iīm not going to buy any other performance parts to negate this effect again (except of maybe a new exhaust system and the K&N drop-in filter). Itīs still a good thing for people who want a better high end!!!!:)
Just tell me what you want and Iīll ask the owner if it should be possible again. Like Iīve already said he told me that he can get EVERYTHING! :cool:
By the way, the link doesnīt work for me. And I came to the conclusion that I might have to paint my whole car new because Iīm discovering more scratches about every day (not caused by me but by the previous owner)!:eek: :(
ok well when you know what you can get at the shop please let me know.
i disagree with you on the intakes because members of prelude communities have tried+tested with intakes, and they do add horses.
short rams will add torque, cold air (AEM ONLY) will add horsepower at higher RPMs. As far as 1/4 mile times (400m) you will go slower with a short ram (compared to stock) and faster with a CAI (compared to stock). read the user-written reviews at www.ntpog.org.
what i think i will do is get a larger intake tube (stock from some other car) and put a K&N in my airbox... we'll see WAIT! Iīve never said that a CAI wonīt add horsepower! The `Re: AEM CAI...ī text is from a member of hondaprelude.com. And a lot of people told me the same. It WILL add horsepower but only at the high end and the low end will suffer a little bit. But I donīt want to lose power in the low end because Iīm not going to buy any other performance parts to negate this effect again (except of maybe a new exhaust system and the K&N drop-in filter). Itīs still a good thing for people who want a better high end!!!!:)
Just tell me what you want and Iīll ask the owner if it should be possible again. Like Iīve already said he told me that he can get EVERYTHING! :cool:
By the way, the link doesnīt work for me. And I came to the conclusion that I might have to paint my whole car new because Iīm discovering more scratches about every day (not caused by me but by the previous owner)!:eek: :(
nuro
02-28-2002, 04:27 PM
we have vtec cars, if u want a faster overall acceleration, its better to accent the high end in the tuning even if it robs some low-end power. everyone says the loss from the AEM CAI is "negligeable"
www.ntpog.org
this is a GREAT prelude resource. ntpog=north texas prelude owner group. there are a lot of do it yourself mods that u will find interesting for all gens, but mostly the 5th. definetely do the "obd2 workaround".
also, at www.preludeonline.com go to the FAQ and read what someone did for a custom cold-air intake. he basically put a cold air tube to a short ram intake so he gets the cold air + short ram effect. its very interesting.
another comment, we have preludes. no mod short of changing out your cams will give you 20 hp. my honest guess is you will get 15 whp (wheel horsepower) from intake+exhaust.
about the store: can you get a price quote for a greddy evo exhaust system (muffler+catback) for a 1999 honda prelude BB8. also ask how long from when u order until he gets it. if he talks to greddy and they dont know whats going on with the BB8, just tell them its for a BB6 base model (NOT SH).
IMHO, wait till u get in an accident to paint your car. the way people drive in europe (no offense, each country including the USA drives badly in some way or another), you're bound to get rear ended soon enough.
thanks.
www.ntpog.org
this is a GREAT prelude resource. ntpog=north texas prelude owner group. there are a lot of do it yourself mods that u will find interesting for all gens, but mostly the 5th. definetely do the "obd2 workaround".
also, at www.preludeonline.com go to the FAQ and read what someone did for a custom cold-air intake. he basically put a cold air tube to a short ram intake so he gets the cold air + short ram effect. its very interesting.
another comment, we have preludes. no mod short of changing out your cams will give you 20 hp. my honest guess is you will get 15 whp (wheel horsepower) from intake+exhaust.
about the store: can you get a price quote for a greddy evo exhaust system (muffler+catback) for a 1999 honda prelude BB8. also ask how long from when u order until he gets it. if he talks to greddy and they dont know whats going on with the BB8, just tell them its for a BB6 base model (NOT SH).
IMHO, wait till u get in an accident to paint your car. the way people drive in europe (no offense, each country including the USA drives badly in some way or another), you're bound to get rear ended soon enough.
thanks.
Veetec
02-28-2002, 04:53 PM
Iīm a little bit tired right now so I didnīt even realize that the only wrong thing about the link is the additional point at the end!! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/kopfpatsch.gif
Actually Iīm already a preludeonline member and I also know ntpog but like Iīve already said,.....Iīm damn tired.:bloated: :D
We may get 15hp out of an intake/ header/ exhaust setup but not with intake and exhaust only. I think Iīve already said it earlier this thread, the 5th gen Lude already has got a damn good intake and you can make something like a CAI out of it with ease (with the stock parts and a K&N drop-in filter). Somebody told me that the gains from a CAI wonīt be as high with our cars as with a Civic for example.
I will ask him soon! Shouldnīt be any problem.:)
I havenīt been in an accidents since years now so that it could last years till Iīm getting into one! But maybe my insurance is going to pay a part of the price so that itīs not that expensive anymore for me. And two friends of mine have got a garage so they would give me a better price for it. You know, if there would only be some scratches here and there I wouldnīt care much. But imagine a black car with thousands of fine scratches and hundreds of deeper and white scratches ALL over the paint of a car which is only a year old!!! IT`S MY WORST NIGHTMARE!!!!!!:eek:
Actually Iīm already a preludeonline member and I also know ntpog but like Iīve already said,.....Iīm damn tired.:bloated: :D
We may get 15hp out of an intake/ header/ exhaust setup but not with intake and exhaust only. I think Iīve already said it earlier this thread, the 5th gen Lude already has got a damn good intake and you can make something like a CAI out of it with ease (with the stock parts and a K&N drop-in filter). Somebody told me that the gains from a CAI wonīt be as high with our cars as with a Civic for example.
I will ask him soon! Shouldnīt be any problem.:)
I havenīt been in an accidents since years now so that it could last years till Iīm getting into one! But maybe my insurance is going to pay a part of the price so that itīs not that expensive anymore for me. And two friends of mine have got a garage so they would give me a better price for it. You know, if there would only be some scratches here and there I wouldnīt care much. But imagine a black car with thousands of fine scratches and hundreds of deeper and white scratches ALL over the paint of a car which is only a year old!!! IT`S MY WORST NIGHTMARE!!!!!!:eek:
Veetec
02-28-2002, 04:55 PM
Forgot to say: A lot of Prelude owners told me that our stock headers are also very good!!!! So we can expect much of a new header neither. (or either?)
nuro
02-28-2002, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Forgot to say: A lot of Prelude owners told me that our stock headers are also very good!!!! So we can expect much of a new header neither. (or either?)
"So we can't expect much from a new header either" :D
This is very true. Its far too much money for far too little horsepower (2-3 wheel horsepower). People do it anyway because in the US its only $300 for the best one, no shipping, and it looks nice! Here changine headers is simply illegal, so i wont do it.
We have well tuned engines stock, so we will never see much gains. If you dont want to do FI (forced induction: supercharger, turbocharger) the best way to get a lot of horses is changing the cams (crower stage 2) and a port+polish job.
Forgot to say: A lot of Prelude owners told me that our stock headers are also very good!!!! So we can expect much of a new header neither. (or either?)
"So we can't expect much from a new header either" :D
This is very true. Its far too much money for far too little horsepower (2-3 wheel horsepower). People do it anyway because in the US its only $300 for the best one, no shipping, and it looks nice! Here changine headers is simply illegal, so i wont do it.
We have well tuned engines stock, so we will never see much gains. If you dont want to do FI (forced induction: supercharger, turbocharger) the best way to get a lot of horses is changing the cams (crower stage 2) and a port+polish job.
Veetec
02-28-2002, 08:26 PM
Originally posted by nuro
"So we can't expect much from a new header either" :D
or " So we can expect much from a new header neither" or not?:confused: :alien2:
Thatīs why Iīll keep most things stock. Mods on my list (not in that direction!) are new tires (maybe Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions?), a new shift knob, alloy pedals (stock pedals are a little bit slippery when wet IMO), indiglo gauges, any brake upgrades (brake lines, discs, brake pads), painting brake calipers red, new paint job or refreshing the old paint if possible, exhaust system (still thinking about it), maybe a camber kit, shaving some or all emblems/writings/trunk keyhole, front window with this blue colored sunshield (dunno how itīs in english) and maybe tinted windows. Neuspeed front strut-tower bar and white turning lights are STILL on their way. And thatīs it for the first. Most parts shouldnīt be too expensive so Iīd guess that I could order most parts together. :D
"So we can't expect much from a new header either" :D
or " So we can expect much from a new header neither" or not?:confused: :alien2:
Thatīs why Iīll keep most things stock. Mods on my list (not in that direction!) are new tires (maybe Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions?), a new shift knob, alloy pedals (stock pedals are a little bit slippery when wet IMO), indiglo gauges, any brake upgrades (brake lines, discs, brake pads), painting brake calipers red, new paint job or refreshing the old paint if possible, exhaust system (still thinking about it), maybe a camber kit, shaving some or all emblems/writings/trunk keyhole, front window with this blue colored sunshield (dunno how itīs in english) and maybe tinted windows. Neuspeed front strut-tower bar and white turning lights are STILL on their way. And thatīs it for the first. Most parts shouldnīt be too expensive so Iīd guess that I could order most parts together. :D
nuro
02-28-2002, 09:58 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
or " So we can expect much from a new header neither" or not?:confused: :alien2:
nope! can't use "neither" like that... my gut feeling is telling me that "neither" cannot negate verbs. :p :D
Thatīs why Iīll keep most things stock. Mods on my list (not in that direction!) are new tires (maybe Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions?), a new shift knob, alloy pedals (stock pedals are a little bit slippery when wet IMO), indiglo gauges, any brake upgrades (brake lines, discs, brake pads), painting brake calipers red, new paint job or refreshing the old paint if possible, exhaust system (still thinking about it), maybe a camber kit, shaving some or all emblems/writings/trunk keyhole, front window with this blue colored sunshield (dunno how itīs in english) and maybe tinted windows. Neuspeed front strut-tower bar and white turning lights are STILL on their way. And thatīs it for the first. Most parts shouldnīt be too expensive so Iīd guess that I could order most parts together. :D
DUDE OH MY GOD TAKE THE BADGES/EMBLEMS OFF YOUR TRUNK NOW FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!!!! NOW NOW NOW NOW NOOOOOW
did i make myself clear? the reason is for your cars paint! The glue and paint become one at a certain moment and leave marks! The sooner you do it the better! NOW. I just took mine off and its a 99. there are slightly visible marks if you look closely. From more than a meter away you can't see though... I am getting it polished and maybe itll help.
You can't take the H off (it leaves two holes) but i dont think it matters since its not glued.... but i'm not sure about this.
or " So we can expect much from a new header neither" or not?:confused: :alien2:
nope! can't use "neither" like that... my gut feeling is telling me that "neither" cannot negate verbs. :p :D
Thatīs why Iīll keep most things stock. Mods on my list (not in that direction!) are new tires (maybe Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions?), a new shift knob, alloy pedals (stock pedals are a little bit slippery when wet IMO), indiglo gauges, any brake upgrades (brake lines, discs, brake pads), painting brake calipers red, new paint job or refreshing the old paint if possible, exhaust system (still thinking about it), maybe a camber kit, shaving some or all emblems/writings/trunk keyhole, front window with this blue colored sunshield (dunno how itīs in english) and maybe tinted windows. Neuspeed front strut-tower bar and white turning lights are STILL on their way. And thatīs it for the first. Most parts shouldnīt be too expensive so Iīd guess that I could order most parts together. :D
DUDE OH MY GOD TAKE THE BADGES/EMBLEMS OFF YOUR TRUNK NOW FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!!!! NOW NOW NOW NOW NOOOOOW
did i make myself clear? the reason is for your cars paint! The glue and paint become one at a certain moment and leave marks! The sooner you do it the better! NOW. I just took mine off and its a 99. there are slightly visible marks if you look closely. From more than a meter away you can't see though... I am getting it polished and maybe itll help.
You can't take the H off (it leaves two holes) but i dont think it matters since its not glued.... but i'm not sure about this.
Veetec
02-28-2002, 10:10 PM
Originally posted by nuro
nope! can't use "neither" like that... my gut feeling is telling me that "neither" cannot negate verbs.
DUDE OH MY GOD TAKE THE BADGES/EMBLEMS OFF YOUR TRUNK NOW FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!!!! NOW NOW NOW NOW NOOOOOW
did i make myself clear? the reason is for your cars paint! The glue and paint become one at a certain moment and leave marks! The sooner you do it the better! NOW. I just took mine off and its a 99. there are slightly visible marks if you look closely. From more than a meter away you can't see though... I am getting it polished and maybe itll help.
You can't take the H off (it leaves two holes) but i dont think it matters since its not glued.... but i'm not sure about this. But for what is "neither" good for then?? Only for"...neither....nor..."?:confused:
Yea, I know that. But the engine hood will be repainted anyways because of holes in the paint caused by stones from the Autobahn. Before that the holes will be closed by the painter (??) so that you wonīt see them anymore. Same with the trunk. The holes and the marks are my smallest problem in this case....:(
nope! can't use "neither" like that... my gut feeling is telling me that "neither" cannot negate verbs.
DUDE OH MY GOD TAKE THE BADGES/EMBLEMS OFF YOUR TRUNK NOW FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!!!! NOW NOW NOW NOW NOOOOOW
did i make myself clear? the reason is for your cars paint! The glue and paint become one at a certain moment and leave marks! The sooner you do it the better! NOW. I just took mine off and its a 99. there are slightly visible marks if you look closely. From more than a meter away you can't see though... I am getting it polished and maybe itll help.
You can't take the H off (it leaves two holes) but i dont think it matters since its not glued.... but i'm not sure about this. But for what is "neither" good for then?? Only for"...neither....nor..."?:confused:
Yea, I know that. But the engine hood will be repainted anyways because of holes in the paint caused by stones from the Autobahn. Before that the holes will be closed by the painter (??) so that you wonīt see them anymore. Same with the trunk. The holes and the marks are my smallest problem in this case....:(
nuro
02-28-2002, 11:15 PM
I didn't drive my car today. Neither did my girlfriend.
Other than neither-nor thats the only other way i'd use the word. I'm not an english teacher though maybe i missed something.
Instead of repainting your hood, have u thought about getting a carbon fiber hood?
Other than neither-nor thats the only other way i'd use the word. I'm not an english teacher though maybe i missed something.
Instead of repainting your hood, have u thought about getting a carbon fiber hood?
Veetec
03-01-2002, 09:55 AM
Originally posted by nuro
I didn't drive my car today. Neither did my girlfriend.
Other than neither-nor thats the only other way i'd use the word. I'm not an english teacher though maybe i missed something.
Instead of repainting your hood, have u thought about getting a carbon fiber hood? Okay, thanx. Wasnīt sure anymore!:)
Yes, Iīve already thought about a carbon fiber hood but I would only buy one from an european shop because Iīd guess that importing one from the states would cost me an arm and a leg!
I didn't drive my car today. Neither did my girlfriend.
Other than neither-nor thats the only other way i'd use the word. I'm not an english teacher though maybe i missed something.
Instead of repainting your hood, have u thought about getting a carbon fiber hood? Okay, thanx. Wasnīt sure anymore!:)
Yes, Iīve already thought about a carbon fiber hood but I would only buy one from an european shop because Iīd guess that importing one from the states would cost me an arm and a leg!
Veetec
03-01-2002, 04:17 PM
Iīve dropped the idea of getting some brake upgrades since fritz_269 (Prelude forum Moderator) told me that it wonīt help much on a 5th gen Prelude!
Veetec
03-04-2002, 12:37 PM
nuro, the shop is going to be opened on this thursday now and Iīll going to ask them about the Greddy Evo exhaust then because I wasnīt able to find their post on the german forum anymore.
But maybe you have got an idea about this: I wanted to order a Spoon or Mugen oil-filler cap for my engine bay but then I saw that the Spoon/ Mugen radiator caps are actually cheaper so Iīm thinking of getting one of these. They will raise the pressure in the radiator so that the water will start to boil on a later point than stock. I know that I wonīt really need it but this way I got a rare part (rare in germany) for a better price which might have a real purpose in the future. My question is: Does it only raise the boiling point or would the engine need a longer time to heat up in winter or anything like that? I know that it doesnīt has got any drawbacks normally but Iīm not sure what would happen during the winter times! Any idea anybody???
But maybe you have got an idea about this: I wanted to order a Spoon or Mugen oil-filler cap for my engine bay but then I saw that the Spoon/ Mugen radiator caps are actually cheaper so Iīm thinking of getting one of these. They will raise the pressure in the radiator so that the water will start to boil on a later point than stock. I know that I wonīt really need it but this way I got a rare part (rare in germany) for a better price which might have a real purpose in the future. My question is: Does it only raise the boiling point or would the engine need a longer time to heat up in winter or anything like that? I know that it doesnīt has got any drawbacks normally but Iīm not sure what would happen during the winter times! Any idea anybody???
nuro
03-05-2002, 02:50 PM
I have no idea about this part... but i've never heard of people doing it for performance. THe oil cap yes, but just for show.
If you want a cheap performance part here is a suggestion: get the mugen low-temp thermostat and mugen fan switch. What this will do is keep you engine bay cooler. You will actually get a few horses out of this, and the only drawback is a very slight rise in fuel consumption (basically because you are running more electrical devices).
If you want a cheap performance part here is a suggestion: get the mugen low-temp thermostat and mugen fan switch. What this will do is keep you engine bay cooler. You will actually get a few horses out of this, and the only drawback is a very slight rise in fuel consumption (basically because you are running more electrical devices).
Vitinho
03-05-2002, 04:14 PM
Hi and Welcome :D
Lets see, H22Ax (where x is applyed to the markets). Basically this diference is only in the ECU programing due to emissions compliance. There maybe other small diferences in the mecanic side like smaller diameter on the throttle body, more restrictions on the air filter box or even maybe another sensor on the engine. Try to go to www.vtec.net (http://www.vtec.net) or go to Prelude.com (http://www.prelude.com) and you might find some more information on that.
Regards,
Lets see, H22Ax (where x is applyed to the markets). Basically this diference is only in the ECU programing due to emissions compliance. There maybe other small diferences in the mecanic side like smaller diameter on the throttle body, more restrictions on the air filter box or even maybe another sensor on the engine. Try to go to www.vtec.net (http://www.vtec.net) or go to Prelude.com (http://www.prelude.com) and you might find some more information on that.
Regards,
Veetec
03-05-2002, 05:52 PM
Originally posted by nuro
I have no idea about this part... but i've never heard of people doing it for performance. THe oil cap yes, but just for show.
If you want a cheap performance part here is a suggestion: get the mugen low-temp thermostat and mugen fan switch. What this will do is keep you engine bay cooler. You will actually get a few horses out of this, and the only drawback is a very slight rise in fuel consumption (basically because you are running more electrical devices). It doesnīt really do anything for performance. It just raises the boiling point of the water in the radiator. Thatīs all. I donīt think that Iīll really need it but before Iīm going to buy an even more useless and more expensive oil-filler cap..... ;) The thermostat and fan switch sound very interesting to me. Do you know how much more fuel I would need with them? Iīd guess not much!? Iīll try to find some info about it.
Check this out: www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t32953.html
This might come handy for all of us DOHC VTEC drivers!!!
I have no idea about this part... but i've never heard of people doing it for performance. THe oil cap yes, but just for show.
If you want a cheap performance part here is a suggestion: get the mugen low-temp thermostat and mugen fan switch. What this will do is keep you engine bay cooler. You will actually get a few horses out of this, and the only drawback is a very slight rise in fuel consumption (basically because you are running more electrical devices). It doesnīt really do anything for performance. It just raises the boiling point of the water in the radiator. Thatīs all. I donīt think that Iīll really need it but before Iīm going to buy an even more useless and more expensive oil-filler cap..... ;) The thermostat and fan switch sound very interesting to me. Do you know how much more fuel I would need with them? Iīd guess not much!? Iīll try to find some info about it.
Check this out: www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t32953.html
This might come handy for all of us DOHC VTEC drivers!!!
nuro
03-06-2002, 12:41 PM
ok i glanced at the thread, let me tell you what i know.
the honda tachometer is off!!! they do it on purpose. our engine redlines at 7400, but the engine's 7400 is really 8000 on the tach. thats why you have the fuel cut-off at 8050 or 8100 i think. This is pretty normal on most new cars. Even at high speeds, your speedometer will be off. When you drive around, dont redline at 8k, but feel free to do it when you race (everyone i know with this car does). If you don't shift at 8, you will be loosing a lot of time because you will fall out of vtec. I'm gonna try and time my 0-60s today, i have to wait for my g-sensor before i can time distances...
the honda tachometer is off!!! they do it on purpose. our engine redlines at 7400, but the engine's 7400 is really 8000 on the tach. thats why you have the fuel cut-off at 8050 or 8100 i think. This is pretty normal on most new cars. Even at high speeds, your speedometer will be off. When you drive around, dont redline at 8k, but feel free to do it when you race (everyone i know with this car does). If you don't shift at 8, you will be loosing a lot of time because you will fall out of vtec. I'm gonna try and time my 0-60s today, i have to wait for my g-sensor before i can time distances...
Veetec
03-06-2002, 01:25 PM
Originally posted by nuro
ok i glanced at the thread, let me tell you what i know.
the honda tachometer is off!!! they do it on purpose. our engine redlines at 7400, but the engine's 7400 is really 8000 on the tach. thats why you have the fuel cut-off at 8050 or 8100 i think. This is pretty normal on most new cars. Even at high speeds, your speedometer will be off. When you drive around, dont redline at 8k, but feel free to do it when you race (everyone i know with this car does). If you don't shift at 8, you will be loosing a lot of time because you will fall out of vtec. I'm gonna try and time my 0-60s today, i have to wait for my g-sensor before i can time distances... Iīve found out that the problem is not to rev till 8.000 time by time but whatīs coming after 8.000rpm. This ignition upgrade would protect our engines of being damaged when we rev too high accidentally. (Normally it doesnīt happen that I rev too high but it CAN happen out of a lot of reasons!) But on the other side I donīt know of nearly any Prelude which is using one on hondaprelude.com for example!?
ok i glanced at the thread, let me tell you what i know.
the honda tachometer is off!!! they do it on purpose. our engine redlines at 7400, but the engine's 7400 is really 8000 on the tach. thats why you have the fuel cut-off at 8050 or 8100 i think. This is pretty normal on most new cars. Even at high speeds, your speedometer will be off. When you drive around, dont redline at 8k, but feel free to do it when you race (everyone i know with this car does). If you don't shift at 8, you will be loosing a lot of time because you will fall out of vtec. I'm gonna try and time my 0-60s today, i have to wait for my g-sensor before i can time distances... Iīve found out that the problem is not to rev till 8.000 time by time but whatīs coming after 8.000rpm. This ignition upgrade would protect our engines of being damaged when we rev too high accidentally. (Normally it doesnīt happen that I rev too high but it CAN happen out of a lot of reasons!) But on the other side I donīt know of nearly any Prelude which is using one on hondaprelude.com for example!?
nuro
03-07-2002, 02:04 PM
we have a rev limiter. when driving do it. i've hit it a couple times. its there so u dont hurt the car
Veetec
03-07-2002, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by nuro
we have a rev limiter. when driving do it. i've hit it a couple times. its there so u dont hurt the car Sorry, my mistake. I didnīt got his point. :rolleyes: He was talking about `powershiftingī but I still donīt know what this is. :confused: Just follow the link again which Iīve posted some days ago. Maybe youīll get his point!? :)
we have a rev limiter. when driving do it. i've hit it a couple times. its there so u dont hurt the car Sorry, my mistake. I didnīt got his point. :rolleyes: He was talking about `powershiftingī but I still donīt know what this is. :confused: Just follow the link again which Iīve posted some days ago. Maybe youīll get his point!? :)
Veetec
03-09-2002, 01:01 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Sorry, my mistake. I didnīt got his point. :rolleyes: He was talking about `powershiftingī but I still donīt know what this is. :confused: Just follow the link again which Iīve posted some days ago. Maybe youīll get his point!? :) Forget everything Iīve written in the last days. Now fritz is telling me that I should keep it like it is. Maybe he was on dr*gs or he thought my car is already modified like hell! :D
By the way, Iīve found out that my engine is a H22A8 (in a BB6) !!
Sorry, my mistake. I didnīt got his point. :rolleyes: He was talking about `powershiftingī but I still donīt know what this is. :confused: Just follow the link again which Iīve posted some days ago. Maybe youīll get his point!? :) Forget everything Iīve written in the last days. Now fritz is telling me that I should keep it like it is. Maybe he was on dr*gs or he thought my car is already modified like hell! :D
By the way, Iīve found out that my engine is a H22A8 (in a BB6) !!
Veetec
03-10-2002, 12:50 PM
The Greddy Evo system would cost you about 950,- Euro (including german taxes, shipping,...). Iīd say if youīre interested (and if you can speak german) just give them a call. Their english should be very good though, too. If not then let me know.
Iīve found out that my stock intake system is completely from the european Accord Type-R and has got the same design like the JDM Prelude Type-S intake system. :) I mean I knew before that Iīve got an ATR engine in it (thatīs why Iīve got a red valve cover) but I thought that the last gen Preludes have all the same intake systems. What is your intake looking like? Does it has got a round tube which is made out of a harder rubber or is made out of plastic and more bulky with a lot of chamber in it?
Iīve found out that my stock intake system is completely from the european Accord Type-R and has got the same design like the JDM Prelude Type-S intake system. :) I mean I knew before that Iīve got an ATR engine in it (thatīs why Iīve got a red valve cover) but I thought that the last gen Preludes have all the same intake systems. What is your intake looking like? Does it has got a round tube which is made out of a harder rubber or is made out of plastic and more bulky with a lot of chamber in it?
rhyd
01-09-2005, 05:30 PM
I found this page:
http://www.acc.eurobell.co.uk/mycar.htm
Where (as well as details of his previous Citroen ZX Volcane) he gives the differences between the A5 and A8 ("after much research") as:
# Air intake ducting/filter housing,
# Camshafts with increased lift,
# Catalytic converter is a larger size,
# Different pistons giving a higher compression ratio,
# Enlarged throttle body from 60 to 62 mm,
# Exhaust manifold / down pipe,
# Exhaust piping has an increased bore of 57 mm instead 51 mm,
# Flexible pipe before the catalytic converter is shorter,
# Optimised ignition and injection timing,
# Valve seats readjusted from 60 to 45 degrees,
# Last but not least, the valve cover is red.
http://www.acc.eurobell.co.uk/mycar.htm
Where (as well as details of his previous Citroen ZX Volcane) he gives the differences between the A5 and A8 ("after much research") as:
# Air intake ducting/filter housing,
# Camshafts with increased lift,
# Catalytic converter is a larger size,
# Different pistons giving a higher compression ratio,
# Enlarged throttle body from 60 to 62 mm,
# Exhaust manifold / down pipe,
# Exhaust piping has an increased bore of 57 mm instead 51 mm,
# Flexible pipe before the catalytic converter is shorter,
# Optimised ignition and injection timing,
# Valve seats readjusted from 60 to 45 degrees,
# Last but not least, the valve cover is red.
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