Intakes! What's the differance??
bez
02-20-2002, 10:33 AM
Why are there really cheap intakes out there and really expensive ones like AEM? Is AEM any better than any other brand? They all look like the same to me :cool: And i see some that are two piece pipes and they are really long... Whats up with those?
1993HondaCivic
02-20-2002, 10:56 AM
aem is ripping people off with their intakes
it probably costs them next to nothing to make them and
they're charging insane prices
it probably costs them next to nothing to make them and
they're charging insane prices
bez
02-21-2002, 09:22 AM
Anyone think that cold air is better than short ram? I heard from some people that the long tubing creates even more heat...
97teg
02-21-2002, 09:36 AM
What? Thats a new one to me. Cold air is way better! I dont know who told you that cold air intakes generate more heat, but they are dead wrong. Trust me, i had a short ram at first, then put a cold air on it and there is a big difference. If you have a short ram, touch the tube and feel how hot it is after you drive. After I put on the cold air, the tube is always cool. With the short ram, i could really feel a loss in power at the low end, but after cold air i got it all back and then some.
super 96 accord
02-21-2002, 01:24 PM
I'm w/the last guy. I had a MonsterFlow short ram and just switched for a AEM cold air w/bypass valve and it's more of a difference than I had imagined it would be. The increase in torque from the CAI to the short one was incredible. Sure they're expensive, but you get what you pay for. I'm not saying it gives you 20HP cuz I'm not that crazy, but it makes a noticeable torque improvement.
bez
02-21-2002, 06:54 PM
OK so i'm going to get cold air intake...But which should i get? Anyone have any favorites or are they all the same?
bez
02-21-2002, 07:00 PM
How does this "Nakayama" intake look?
Nakayama Intake Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1806647542&r=0&t=0)
Nakayama Intake Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1806647542&r=0&t=0)
jOYRiDe
02-21-2002, 08:02 PM
Originally posted by 1993HondaCivic
aem is ripping people off with their intakes
it probably costs them next to nothing to make them and
they're charging insane prices
i made my one and i saved 100 bucks. works just as good and i can make it either long or short ram (depending on the weather)
aem is ripping people off with their intakes
it probably costs them next to nothing to make them and
they're charging insane prices
i made my one and i saved 100 bucks. works just as good and i can make it either long or short ram (depending on the weather)
bez
02-21-2002, 09:13 PM
Joyride---can u post the directions to how you made it? Thanks
super 96 accord
02-21-2002, 09:27 PM
Well of course they cost a lot less to make than what they sell it for, especially with just the retail prices you see. But what you are paying for is all the R&D that went in to it.
1993HondaCivic
02-21-2002, 10:55 PM
Originally posted by super 96 accord
Well of course they cost a lot less to make than what they sell it for, especially with just the retail prices you see. But what you are paying for is all the R&D that went in to it.
if all that r&d went into it then how come they didnt think of this...
"There are a few problems with the AEM system, however. The first is that it’s made of aluminum. Aluminum is lightweight, but is also an excellent conductor of heat. Thermoplastic and silicone would be better, like the Iceman and PRM systems, but steel works as well as aluminum (better in cact) with only a small weight increase over aluminum, plastic, or silicone. The AEM systems are ceramic coated, which helps block heat, but they only ceramic coat the OUTSIDE. Another problem is price – the retail price of an AEM system is $250. "
-taken from
CAI diy (http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm)
Well of course they cost a lot less to make than what they sell it for, especially with just the retail prices you see. But what you are paying for is all the R&D that went in to it.
if all that r&d went into it then how come they didnt think of this...
"There are a few problems with the AEM system, however. The first is that it’s made of aluminum. Aluminum is lightweight, but is also an excellent conductor of heat. Thermoplastic and silicone would be better, like the Iceman and PRM systems, but steel works as well as aluminum (better in cact) with only a small weight increase over aluminum, plastic, or silicone. The AEM systems are ceramic coated, which helps block heat, but they only ceramic coat the OUTSIDE. Another problem is price – the retail price of an AEM system is $250. "
-taken from
CAI diy (http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm)
Celica-Zen
02-21-2002, 11:02 PM
I have a 2000 Celica GT-S and am in the market 4 a cold air intake. I have heard AEM or Injen, any suggestions or comments? Thx.:smoker2:
97teg
02-22-2002, 02:08 PM
A tube is a tube. They are all the same whether you pay $75 or $250. I don't think you will feel a difference between the different brands as long as it is cold air.
Pharty012
02-22-2002, 05:27 PM
i THINK NOT!!!:rolleyes: aluminum is not a conducter of head like steel is... have u ever put aaluminum in the oven bake it at 500 degrees?? and take it out.. it cools off in like 10 seconds... u can start touching it and shit.. but feel the steel rails... can u handle the heat??? aluminum is not a excelent conducter of heat BUDDY!
1993HondaCivic
02-22-2002, 07:15 PM
Originally posted by Pharty012
i THINK NOT!!!:rolleyes: aluminum is not a conducter of head like steel is... have u ever put aaluminum in the oven bake it at 500 degrees?? and take it out.. it cools off in like 10 seconds... u can start touching it and shit.. but feel the steel rails... can u handle the heat??? aluminum is not a excelent conducter of heat BUDDY!
aluminum not an excelent conducter of heat? are u kidding me!
why do you think radiators, even performance ones like Fluidyne and spoon, are made of aluminum?! the foil is cool soon after u take it out not because it DOESn't absorb heat (heck, aluminum has more heat capacity than copper, gold, and silver), its because of the large surface area of the sheet of foil which comes in contact with the air, which in turn, cools it........ BUDDY!
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid3/pa47551b035fa2c204c65f175e8ff7596/fdea70d4.jpg.orig.jpg
here's a chart on heat conductivity of diff. materials if interested (http://www.speakeasy.org/~language/pictures/superchart.gif)
i THINK NOT!!!:rolleyes: aluminum is not a conducter of head like steel is... have u ever put aaluminum in the oven bake it at 500 degrees?? and take it out.. it cools off in like 10 seconds... u can start touching it and shit.. but feel the steel rails... can u handle the heat??? aluminum is not a excelent conducter of heat BUDDY!
aluminum not an excelent conducter of heat? are u kidding me!
why do you think radiators, even performance ones like Fluidyne and spoon, are made of aluminum?! the foil is cool soon after u take it out not because it DOESn't absorb heat (heck, aluminum has more heat capacity than copper, gold, and silver), its because of the large surface area of the sheet of foil which comes in contact with the air, which in turn, cools it........ BUDDY!
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid3/pa47551b035fa2c204c65f175e8ff7596/fdea70d4.jpg.orig.jpg
here's a chart on heat conductivity of diff. materials if interested (http://www.speakeasy.org/~language/pictures/superchart.gif)
white97ex
02-22-2002, 09:35 PM
yes aluminum is a good conductor of heat. the reason that it is used in radiators and such is that it also disapates heat quiker. that is why, (i dont know if you are familiar with this or not but..) in remote controlled cars (high performance) they use aluminum heat sinks on the speed controls and motors. they draw the heat out of the electronics and dissipate it much quicker than the steal its mounted to. that is why it cools so quick. as for the surface area. that only matters if there is less material. and since aluminum is less dense than most other metals. it cools quicker (less dense means less material or particles per cubic centimeter)
luti
02-23-2002, 03:29 PM
White97Ex is right. Take a look at that computer you're using right now. I'm 99% sure that almost every heatsink on the processor of the machines out there is aluminium due to its low density (ie: low mass to volume ration)
outsidethebox
02-23-2002, 07:26 PM
Dryer tube, pvc pipe, a tube is a tube is a tube. Spend that $250 on cams, or a head porting kit. Learn to do the work yourself and spend the money on good parts.
5speedaccord
03-13-2002, 10:43 PM
so lemme just get this stright here. the aluminum basicaly takes the heat out of the air? that would kinda make sense. i mean it's not the tube you need ol, it's the air going into the engin thatneeds to be cool
xodus917
03-14-2002, 12:49 AM
I looked on the inside of my aem cai and it is coated on the inside as well. with the zirconia coating that combats conducting heat. I'm also very happy with it.
jOYRiDe
03-14-2002, 03:55 AM
theres a link somewhere in here to show u how to make your own cai but i cant find it...the cai is for a del sol but fits civics also
luti
03-14-2002, 02:11 PM
Is this the link you were thinking about?
http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm
I am actually going to drive down to J.C. Whitney this weekend (or next) to get the pipe to build one of these. I'll let you all know how it works... unfortuanetly I don't have a professional one to compare it too, but I can't see it being any different.
http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm
I am actually going to drive down to J.C. Whitney this weekend (or next) to get the pipe to build one of these. I'll let you all know how it works... unfortuanetly I don't have a professional one to compare it too, but I can't see it being any different.
fritz_269
03-14-2002, 06:03 PM
Originally posted by luti
White97Ex is right. Take a look at that computer you're using right now. I'm 99% sure that almost every heatsink on the processor of the machines out there is aluminium due to its low density (ie: low mass to volume ration)
Just to clear up a nitpicky point about physics ->
Density (mass per volume) is completely unrelated to heat conduction.
Ceramics can have a very low density and they have very low heat conduction (both much lower than aluminum). A vacuum has no density and nearly no heat conduction. Copper has a density higher than aluminum, and it's about twice as good as a heat conductor.
Aluminum is used for heatsinks because it's heat conduction is good enough, but it's mainly used because it is extremely cheap and very easy to manufacture (due to it's low melting point).
Heat Conduction is often measured in units of:
kilocalories / second * meter * Centigrade
(One kilocalorie is the same as one food Calorie, it's a formal measurement of Energy).
Aluminum is about 0.049 kcal/s*m*C, which means that it would take 0.049 kilocalories of energy per second to hold a temperature difference of one Centigrade across a one meter cube of aluminum.
Copper is about 0.092 kcal/s*m*C - it would take twice as much energy per second to hold that temperature difference, because it is so much better a heat conductor.
Air is about 0.0000057 kcal/s*m*C - it takes very little energy per second to hold a temperature differential across still air. Air is a fantastic heat insulator!
:cool:
White97Ex is right. Take a look at that computer you're using right now. I'm 99% sure that almost every heatsink on the processor of the machines out there is aluminium due to its low density (ie: low mass to volume ration)
Just to clear up a nitpicky point about physics ->
Density (mass per volume) is completely unrelated to heat conduction.
Ceramics can have a very low density and they have very low heat conduction (both much lower than aluminum). A vacuum has no density and nearly no heat conduction. Copper has a density higher than aluminum, and it's about twice as good as a heat conductor.
Aluminum is used for heatsinks because it's heat conduction is good enough, but it's mainly used because it is extremely cheap and very easy to manufacture (due to it's low melting point).
Heat Conduction is often measured in units of:
kilocalories / second * meter * Centigrade
(One kilocalorie is the same as one food Calorie, it's a formal measurement of Energy).
Aluminum is about 0.049 kcal/s*m*C, which means that it would take 0.049 kilocalories of energy per second to hold a temperature difference of one Centigrade across a one meter cube of aluminum.
Copper is about 0.092 kcal/s*m*C - it would take twice as much energy per second to hold that temperature difference, because it is so much better a heat conductor.
Air is about 0.0000057 kcal/s*m*C - it takes very little energy per second to hold a temperature differential across still air. Air is a fantastic heat insulator!
:cool:
ivymike1031
03-14-2002, 07:36 PM
Originally posted by 5speedaccord
so lemme just get this stright here. the aluminum basicaly takes the heat out of the air? that would kinda make sense. i mean it's not the tube you need ol, it's the air going into the engin thatneeds to be cool
You're right about one thing: it is the air going into the engine that needs to be cool.
The way that the air stays cool as it passes through the warm engine compartment is that the tube around it doesn't allow much heat transfer to the air. The better the heat xfer through the intake tube, the warmer the intake air will be by the time it reaches the engine.
so lemme just get this stright here. the aluminum basicaly takes the heat out of the air? that would kinda make sense. i mean it's not the tube you need ol, it's the air going into the engin thatneeds to be cool
You're right about one thing: it is the air going into the engine that needs to be cool.
The way that the air stays cool as it passes through the warm engine compartment is that the tube around it doesn't allow much heat transfer to the air. The better the heat xfer through the intake tube, the warmer the intake air will be by the time it reaches the engine.
barnyflats
05-06-2003, 10:22 AM
I think that AEM is charging more also because it is CARB approved. I don't know if many of the the other intakes out there are. Of course if you aren't worried about passing smog, that doesn't really matter.
Mr. Anderson
05-06-2003, 10:28 PM
Just throwin my two cents in.... but look at the complexity of a CAI? Even though the AEM intake is ceramic coated, how many degress does it compare to how many more dollars your spending? I mean you can pick up a CAI on ebay for like $40... looks the same to me! I've personally got a Powertech CAI and the way it was put to me was " I mean a tube is a tube" how much difference can it really make? I was very happy with the improvement the Powertech gave me. I would imagine that different filters and coatings on these tubes could very well make a difference....but what.... maybe 1 to 2 HP if that? Is that worth an extra $150-$200?? Not to me.... but then again that's me! :smoker2:
Taurus92AF
05-09-2003, 07:44 PM
Forgive my ignorance, but is there something to keep water from gettting to to air filter. I know cai's are usually located in the wheel well. Just wondering.
Mr. Anderson
05-10-2003, 03:20 AM
Forgive my ignorance, but is there something to keep water from gettting to to air filter. I know cai's are usually located in the wheel well. Just wondering.
Yes, there is a thing called a "bypass valve filter" that goes inline with your CAI that reduces the chance of hydrolocking your engine:bloated: . This however, has been noted to hinder the performance of the CAI.... you can either spend the money on that or buy yourself a cheap version of a short ram intake for real rainy days for like $30-$40 on ebay. The intakes are pretty easy to uninstall and reinstall.
My two cents...
Yes, there is a thing called a "bypass valve filter" that goes inline with your CAI that reduces the chance of hydrolocking your engine:bloated: . This however, has been noted to hinder the performance of the CAI.... you can either spend the money on that or buy yourself a cheap version of a short ram intake for real rainy days for like $30-$40 on ebay. The intakes are pretty easy to uninstall and reinstall.
My two cents...
ssshhhh (_burn_)
05-18-2003, 12:42 AM
best intake = iceman cold air cut short with a pantyhose filter.doubled over
ssshhhh (_burn_)
05-18-2003, 12:50 AM
Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
My two cents...
save your money and buy a gun. then shoot yourself
Originally raped from Mr. Anderson's signature
95 VTEC ECU with Mugen spec chip (newsflash. you have a FAKE mugen chip....)
- VTEC @ 2500 ( that is RETARDED. thats almost my idle.../ you have NO cams and your only TAKING midrange power from your motor)
- REV 8500
- No governer <(arent these...
- No speed limitor <the exact same thing??)
- More fuel curve
My two cents...
save your money and buy a gun. then shoot yourself
Originally raped from Mr. Anderson's signature
95 VTEC ECU with Mugen spec chip (newsflash. you have a FAKE mugen chip....)
- VTEC @ 2500 ( that is RETARDED. thats almost my idle.../ you have NO cams and your only TAKING midrange power from your motor)
- REV 8500
- No governer <(arent these...
- No speed limitor <the exact same thing??)
- More fuel curve
Neutrino
05-18-2003, 01:55 AM
ssshhh...take it easy you just came here and are already jumping on everyone. take it easy. you disagree with what he sais say your opinion
ssshhhh (_burn_)
05-18-2003, 09:08 PM
ha sorry man but i couldnt help myself. i dont like when stupid people post their thoughts on "tuning" issues
Mr. Anderson
05-22-2003, 05:30 PM
ha sorry man but i couldnt help myself. i dont like when stupid people post their thoughts on "tuning" issues
Wow... such harsh words! ("stupid people") Can't believe I insulted someone so much over an CAI opinion.. and I repeat "opinion". And to furthermore, you're right.. which I am not ashamed to admit. The chip states that it is a Mugen "spec" chip, which didn't work in my car anyway. As far as the stats go I just copied and pasted off the website. After I installed the chip, plugged it in with the conversion harness the car wouldn't turn over. So that's the end of that story. Now back to the "stupid people" thing, first off I absolutely refuse to get into a typing battle with anyone I don't know.. as that would display my "intelligence" level. I am sure that 99% of the people in here think people like you are comical and probably weigh 110# soaking wet with a bag of rice strapped to your back, but that's besides the point. And nowhere did I mention that I was a novice at this stuff.. I am farely new and still learning alot. So ask yourself who is the stupid one? My income and education proves different... as well as my manners towards others. Maybe you should have been held more as a child, I don't know... but opinions are opinions.. you don't like mine... you're entitled to disagree.. you wanna call people stupid.. should check yo'self! Now, based on your enthusiasm I imagine that you would be able to suggest some good cams for my car or anyone that can rechip my 96 ECU? Or are you just here to be an ass?.... let me know your "opinion"...
Wow... such harsh words! ("stupid people") Can't believe I insulted someone so much over an CAI opinion.. and I repeat "opinion". And to furthermore, you're right.. which I am not ashamed to admit. The chip states that it is a Mugen "spec" chip, which didn't work in my car anyway. As far as the stats go I just copied and pasted off the website. After I installed the chip, plugged it in with the conversion harness the car wouldn't turn over. So that's the end of that story. Now back to the "stupid people" thing, first off I absolutely refuse to get into a typing battle with anyone I don't know.. as that would display my "intelligence" level. I am sure that 99% of the people in here think people like you are comical and probably weigh 110# soaking wet with a bag of rice strapped to your back, but that's besides the point. And nowhere did I mention that I was a novice at this stuff.. I am farely new and still learning alot. So ask yourself who is the stupid one? My income and education proves different... as well as my manners towards others. Maybe you should have been held more as a child, I don't know... but opinions are opinions.. you don't like mine... you're entitled to disagree.. you wanna call people stupid.. should check yo'self! Now, based on your enthusiasm I imagine that you would be able to suggest some good cams for my car or anyone that can rechip my 96 ECU? Or are you just here to be an ass?.... let me know your "opinion"...
Neutrino
05-22-2003, 06:48 PM
Mr. Anderson may i recomend this thread for you.
you might like some of the avatars. maybe something that will go with your name;)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t105107.html
you might like some of the avatars. maybe something that will go with your name;)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t105107.html
gigatron
05-22-2003, 07:57 PM
LOL I love your avatar though ;)
ssshhhh (_burn_)
05-23-2003, 11:31 PM
Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
Now, based on your enthusiasm I imagine that you would be able to suggest some good cams for my car or anyone that can rechip my 96 ECU? Or are you just here to be an ass?.... let me know your "opinion"...
ok i am actually an ass to some people sometimes. you just got the assend of it. dont take it too seriously.and now to get to your real qeustion. yes i can. what motor do you have, what tranny, what do you want it to be built for and how much are you planning on doing to your motor? ericks racing has a great ecu chipping deal. other than that, i wouldnt go for any "spec" chips what so ever. i could write a chip that kicks in vtec at idle and fucks up the whole map and sell it all over the world on ebay to kids who just want a computer change. it happens all the time. ide personally invist 250 bux into a base s200 hondata system.
Now, based on your enthusiasm I imagine that you would be able to suggest some good cams for my car or anyone that can rechip my 96 ECU? Or are you just here to be an ass?.... let me know your "opinion"...
ok i am actually an ass to some people sometimes. you just got the assend of it. dont take it too seriously.and now to get to your real qeustion. yes i can. what motor do you have, what tranny, what do you want it to be built for and how much are you planning on doing to your motor? ericks racing has a great ecu chipping deal. other than that, i wouldnt go for any "spec" chips what so ever. i could write a chip that kicks in vtec at idle and fucks up the whole map and sell it all over the world on ebay to kids who just want a computer change. it happens all the time. ide personally invist 250 bux into a base s200 hondata system.
killah_xft
05-24-2003, 03:13 AM
from what I rea in the flowbench testings that were publishing in a tuning magazine recently (honda tuning, or import tuner...) the Injen systems were the best tested, and from what I know they are not very expensive..
V00D00
05-24-2003, 05:52 AM
it was recently but it was in Honda Tuning around december i think.
Injen intake w/ jackson racing filter beat all the others it was up against and the list was pretty long.
I dont remember what car they tested it in but i believe it was a civic.
I should have bought it it was a really informative little mag.
Injen intake w/ jackson racing filter beat all the others it was up against and the list was pretty long.
I dont remember what car they tested it in but i believe it was a civic.
I should have bought it it was a really informative little mag.
killah_xft
05-25-2003, 03:43 AM
there was no car, I have the mag right here, they tested it on a flowbench.. computers, fans, and stuff.. temperature guaging equipment as well.. but yes injen tested the best.
Mr. Anderson
05-25-2003, 06:08 PM
ok i am actually an ass to some people sometimes. you just got the assend of it. dont take it too seriously.and now to get to your real qeustion. yes i can. what motor do you have, what tranny, what do you want it to be built for and how much are you planning on doing to your motor? ericks racing has a great ecu chipping deal. other than that, i wouldnt go for any "spec" chips what so ever. i could write a chip that kicks in vtec at idle and fucks up the whole map and sell it all over the world on ebay to kids who just want a computer change. it happens all the time. ide personally invist 250 bux into a base s200 hondata system.
Alrighty then... actually... I was debating on doing a H22 swap before I put all the bolt on into my car (header, CAI, wires, etc). I just put those in because they are relatively inexpensive and not to have the car all done up on the outside and have the engine completely stock. Basically, the car is definetly not a strip car and is driven daily and I get alot of compliments on the cosmetics. Should I invest any more money into this motor with 122k miles on it or just wait and do the swap? There are some people around here that say the H22 swap into an Accord isn't worth it? I can't see how they can say that when you are starting off with a motor that has close to 40 more hp? Do you have any experience with these motors? Let me know what you think I should do?.....
Thanks and nice to meet you!:smoker2:
Alrighty then... actually... I was debating on doing a H22 swap before I put all the bolt on into my car (header, CAI, wires, etc). I just put those in because they are relatively inexpensive and not to have the car all done up on the outside and have the engine completely stock. Basically, the car is definetly not a strip car and is driven daily and I get alot of compliments on the cosmetics. Should I invest any more money into this motor with 122k miles on it or just wait and do the swap? There are some people around here that say the H22 swap into an Accord isn't worth it? I can't see how they can say that when you are starting off with a motor that has close to 40 more hp? Do you have any experience with these motors? Let me know what you think I should do?.....
Thanks and nice to meet you!:smoker2:
Mr. Anderson
05-25-2003, 06:10 PM
PS..........how the hell you get your picture on here at the bottom like that? I know this is the wrong section but obviously you know how!
Neutrino
05-25-2003, 10:36 PM
Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
PS..........how the hell you get your picture on here at the bottom like that? I know this is the wrong section but obviously you know how!
if you are refering to my link to the matrix pictures.......i was thinking about getting one as an avatar to do that download one of those and go to profile>edit options at the bottom gives you the option to upload one of those picts as your avatar.
PS..........how the hell you get your picture on here at the bottom like that? I know this is the wrong section but obviously you know how!
if you are refering to my link to the matrix pictures.......i was thinking about getting one as an avatar to do that download one of those and go to profile>edit options at the bottom gives you the option to upload one of those picts as your avatar.
ssshhhh (_burn_)
05-25-2003, 11:11 PM
Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
Alrighty then... actually... I was debating on doing a H22 swap before I put all the bolt on into my car (header, CAI, wires, etc). I just put those in because they are relatively inexpensive and not to have the car all done up on the outside and have the engine completely stock. Basically, the car is definetly not a strip car and is driven daily and I get alot of compliments on the cosmetics. Should I invest any more money into this motor with 122k miles on it or just wait and do the swap? There are some people around here that say the H22 swap into an Accord isn't worth it? I can't see how they can say that when you are starting off with a motor that has close to 40 more hp? Do you have any experience with these motors? Let me know what you think I should do?.....
Thanks and nice to meet you!:smoker2:
jdm h22 in an accord is worth it. building up an engine with alot of miles isnt. you would have more than 40 horses over the stock accord motor no doubt. the jdm h22's are rated around 220. or you could side with the rest of the clowns on this site and turbo a b16 and put it in your car. so what if its tiny, but hey its TURBO right??!! (sarcasm).
jdm h22
about the sig pics. find a picture....send it to me. tell me how you want your banner to look and i'll make it bling and put it on my webspace. il send you the link and then you put the tags around it
which are.... _ without the underscore
Alrighty then... actually... I was debating on doing a H22 swap before I put all the bolt on into my car (header, CAI, wires, etc). I just put those in because they are relatively inexpensive and not to have the car all done up on the outside and have the engine completely stock. Basically, the car is definetly not a strip car and is driven daily and I get alot of compliments on the cosmetics. Should I invest any more money into this motor with 122k miles on it or just wait and do the swap? There are some people around here that say the H22 swap into an Accord isn't worth it? I can't see how they can say that when you are starting off with a motor that has close to 40 more hp? Do you have any experience with these motors? Let me know what you think I should do?.....
Thanks and nice to meet you!:smoker2:
jdm h22 in an accord is worth it. building up an engine with alot of miles isnt. you would have more than 40 horses over the stock accord motor no doubt. the jdm h22's are rated around 220. or you could side with the rest of the clowns on this site and turbo a b16 and put it in your car. so what if its tiny, but hey its TURBO right??!! (sarcasm).
jdm h22
about the sig pics. find a picture....send it to me. tell me how you want your banner to look and i'll make it bling and put it on my webspace. il send you the link and then you put the tags around it
which are.... _ without the underscore
Mr. Anderson
05-27-2003, 09:16 AM
jdm h22 in an accord is worth it. building up an engine with alot of miles isnt. you would have more than 40 horses over the stock accord motor no doubt. the jdm h22's are rated around 220. or you could side with the rest of the clowns on this site and turbo a b16 and put it in your car. so what if its tiny, but hey its TURBO right??!! (sarcasm).
I guess that is the most logical thing to do. I'd like to wait till next year or if my blows up then I have an excuse to do it earlier ;). Alot of people say that the H22s' don't handle boost real well? Does that mean that they don't handle boost at all or could you turbo that motor at say 6-7 psi? Or is it even worth the 6-7 psi to do it? I see all these guys buying T3s' T3/T4s' wouldn't like a T28 work in that motor for the low demand of psi? I don't want a strip car... my car is daily driven. However, I wouldn't mind wiping that shit eatin grin all these losers in 4.6 and 5.0's are driving around with....know whatta mean!? Let me know what you think......
Mike
I guess that is the most logical thing to do. I'd like to wait till next year or if my blows up then I have an excuse to do it earlier ;). Alot of people say that the H22s' don't handle boost real well? Does that mean that they don't handle boost at all or could you turbo that motor at say 6-7 psi? Or is it even worth the 6-7 psi to do it? I see all these guys buying T3s' T3/T4s' wouldn't like a T28 work in that motor for the low demand of psi? I don't want a strip car... my car is daily driven. However, I wouldn't mind wiping that shit eatin grin all these losers in 4.6 and 5.0's are driving around with....know whatta mean!? Let me know what you think......
Mike
Mr. Anderson
05-27-2003, 09:25 AM
Also......before the site goes down again for another three weeks!:bloated: I might as well ask you other questions I have since it sounds like you know your shit. Even though it is completely off the CAI thread... I am also running a 55shot of Zex in the car now from what people told me in the past would be ok with the slim mods that I have. The car seems to be run good and I bought it because no matter what motor I get in the future the N2o is transferrable. My question is... do you think I would really be pushing it if I stepped it up to a 65shot? I mean what measures have to be taken to prevent detonation.... spark and fuel demand to match the N2O right? Doesn't my car (OBD2) come with knock sensors, and O2 sensors to calibrate the air/fuel ratio accordingly and if it senses not enough fuel the engine would knock or bog? Letting me know......(well shit, this isn't working?!?) or do I stand the chance of immediate detonation? Am I making any sense at all!?!?:confused: hmmmmmmm..... well let me know....any others are welcome to answer as well.!
thanks shhhhh
thanks shhhhh
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