92 cutless supreme 3.1
simonmac67
10-25-2004, 05:44 PM
hi everyone, i'm new to this forum, hope you can help?
i own a 92 olds cutless supreme 3.1, and recently after a longish journey (300miles) i was cruising at about 75mph and my engine started jerking and losing power, i had to reduce my speed down to about 50 to get me home...about 150 miles, i changed all the obvious things like plugs, leads, fuel filter, checked vacum hoses added injector cleaner to gas as well as additives to remove water from gas (added new gas), but still the engine is sluggish at high revs, and sometimes fails when pulling out of junctions . Now it has taken to cutting out when i come to a stop. I suspect the "check engine" light does not work as this has never come on even when i have had other unrelated problems in the past, so i am unable to diagnose any problems myself.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Thank you
Simon
i own a 92 olds cutless supreme 3.1, and recently after a longish journey (300miles) i was cruising at about 75mph and my engine started jerking and losing power, i had to reduce my speed down to about 50 to get me home...about 150 miles, i changed all the obvious things like plugs, leads, fuel filter, checked vacum hoses added injector cleaner to gas as well as additives to remove water from gas (added new gas), but still the engine is sluggish at high revs, and sometimes fails when pulling out of junctions . Now it has taken to cutting out when i come to a stop. I suspect the "check engine" light does not work as this has never come on even when i have had other unrelated problems in the past, so i am unable to diagnose any problems myself.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Thank you
Simon
Slade901
10-25-2004, 07:42 PM
Does the Service Engine light come ON when you turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position (just before the cranking position)?
If it does light then that light works. Sometimes the Service Engine light does not come ON for all problem the engine has.
Just look under the steering column and you should see a connector. The upper right side called A B slots are the two slots that you need to put a paperclip (kinda shorting them out). Turn the Ignition Switch to RUN (just before cranking the engine), the cooling fan should come start and the Service Engine light should blink.
I should blink once pause then blink twice (Code 12).
This will be repeated 3 times.
After that then any stored code will flash and it will repeat it 3 times.
Once all the stored core error has been shown then the Code 12 (blink once, pause, then blink twice) again.
Get the code first and if you can't do that and if your vehicle can be driven to a near Autozone then have them scan your vehicle computer for FREE.
I did have problem a similar problem and the shop said that the problem or their fix was the Engine Block Off. I ask them what is it? Have they replaced something or added something but they won't elaborate more.
I've searched the web and have come to a conclusion would be that they have used an Engine Block Off plate which is used to block the EGR to by-pass it but I'm still searching any article about it. (It did fix the problem but I'm not sure if there was just simple things that they have reconnected or something) That was before I started learning and doing repair on my own vehicle.
A couple of years later, the same problem started showing up. First thing I have done was replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator for no reason but that did not fix the problem. However, the problem now was intermittent. I thought it was a coolant issue. I have drained the old coolant and put a new coolant. I have also disconnected the secondary cooling fan and directly wired it to the primary fan so that when the primary fan kicks in, it will also kicks in the secondary fan and cooling the coolant rapidly. I have never experienced any problem after that. (However, my vehicle still has problem almost stalling when moving from a stop sign. This has been going on since I bought the vehicle.)
My gas tank has a crack on it and so I decided to replace the gas tank and put a new fuel pump in it.
A few years later, my vehicle started having a problem stalling/surging only after the engine has warmed up at about 7 minutes or so. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor but that did not solve the problem. Finally, I realized that the excess coolant is coming out of the coolant reservoir cover and spraying down where the Ignition Control Module and Ignition Coils are located. My coolant reservoir is located on top middle and just behind the radiator and my Ignition Control Module/Ignition Coils is directly below the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir has a flimsy cover which is not very tight and so the coolant reservoir gets full and the coolant comes out of the coolant reservoir cover. My solution was just remove excess coolant and put some rubber tape around the mouth of the coolant reservoir so that when I put the cover, it will be tight seal. It fixed the stalling/surging problem.
I have come up a solution to fix my problem where the engine hesitates to move from the stop sign by tightening the vacuum hose which is located on top of the throttle body.
http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22351
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=305389
If it does light then that light works. Sometimes the Service Engine light does not come ON for all problem the engine has.
Just look under the steering column and you should see a connector. The upper right side called A B slots are the two slots that you need to put a paperclip (kinda shorting them out). Turn the Ignition Switch to RUN (just before cranking the engine), the cooling fan should come start and the Service Engine light should blink.
I should blink once pause then blink twice (Code 12).
This will be repeated 3 times.
After that then any stored code will flash and it will repeat it 3 times.
Once all the stored core error has been shown then the Code 12 (blink once, pause, then blink twice) again.
Get the code first and if you can't do that and if your vehicle can be driven to a near Autozone then have them scan your vehicle computer for FREE.
I did have problem a similar problem and the shop said that the problem or their fix was the Engine Block Off. I ask them what is it? Have they replaced something or added something but they won't elaborate more.
I've searched the web and have come to a conclusion would be that they have used an Engine Block Off plate which is used to block the EGR to by-pass it but I'm still searching any article about it. (It did fix the problem but I'm not sure if there was just simple things that they have reconnected or something) That was before I started learning and doing repair on my own vehicle.
A couple of years later, the same problem started showing up. First thing I have done was replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator for no reason but that did not fix the problem. However, the problem now was intermittent. I thought it was a coolant issue. I have drained the old coolant and put a new coolant. I have also disconnected the secondary cooling fan and directly wired it to the primary fan so that when the primary fan kicks in, it will also kicks in the secondary fan and cooling the coolant rapidly. I have never experienced any problem after that. (However, my vehicle still has problem almost stalling when moving from a stop sign. This has been going on since I bought the vehicle.)
My gas tank has a crack on it and so I decided to replace the gas tank and put a new fuel pump in it.
A few years later, my vehicle started having a problem stalling/surging only after the engine has warmed up at about 7 minutes or so. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor but that did not solve the problem. Finally, I realized that the excess coolant is coming out of the coolant reservoir cover and spraying down where the Ignition Control Module and Ignition Coils are located. My coolant reservoir is located on top middle and just behind the radiator and my Ignition Control Module/Ignition Coils is directly below the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir has a flimsy cover which is not very tight and so the coolant reservoir gets full and the coolant comes out of the coolant reservoir cover. My solution was just remove excess coolant and put some rubber tape around the mouth of the coolant reservoir so that when I put the cover, it will be tight seal. It fixed the stalling/surging problem.
I have come up a solution to fix my problem where the engine hesitates to move from the stop sign by tightening the vacuum hose which is located on top of the throttle body.
http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22351
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=305389
simonmac67
10-25-2004, 08:08 PM
thanks for the info...i'm going outside to try it now
simon
simon
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026