Attention 1996 Camry owners

I am going to buy a 1996 Camry as it is the last year before the engine design changed and caused the oil gelling issues. I realize that Toyota has some sort of 8 year warranty covering the engine damage due to oil gelling but I would rather avoid the problem altogether. I need your advice on what you found to be weak spots or issues on your 1996 Camry so I can be aware before I started searching around for one for myself.
Thanks for your time and help,
Paul
Vancouver

'92 to '96 Camrys are the same except taillights & headlights.... Most other parts are interchangeable... The outside door handle are different though.... I have been very pleased with the 2.2 engine, great workhorse with good MPG..... The wishbone engine stablizer (on left top) tends to go bad.... I also had the filter Condensor inside the distributor short out (got engine hot) taking out the ign. fuse.... Hope this helps.... Bob

Have 178K on my 95 2.2 camry and no problems unless you count regular maint. This has been a trouble free car.

Most people have very few problems with their 96 Camry. Mine has been suprisingly lemon-like. I have 90k miles on mine and I've had to replace the cooling system (fluid, pumps, radiator), the timing belt and timing belt tensioner, and now I have to have all of the seals and oil pump replaced.

My parents have a toyo van that has 123k miles and other than oil changes and other routine maintenance has never needed a tuneup/repair. This seems to be more the norm for toyo vehicles.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/572000-572999/572923_79.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/572000-572999/572923_88.jpg
96 camry no problems yet.

I am pretty sure the 96 Camry engine is the same as the 1997 - 2001. The 96's aren't covered under the engine policy just because they were older and Toyota did not want to go back that far. It would be a safer bet buying one that still haves a couple of years left on the 8year warrnaty extension. At least if the engine blows you are covered. I would just make sure you have documentation of oil changes from the people you are buying it from or if from Toyota some sort of documentation that they will cover it under the warranty if it fails. Just ignore the owner manual and change the oil at 3000 miles.

My 96 Camry has over 247,000 kilometers on it. It was trouble free up to 225,000 then the CV's and shafts gave way, so I had those replaced.

The power antenna is crappy. So I had that changed to the rubber one. The

Surprisingly, my mufflers and tail exhaust are still original. Although I have changed my brakes, pad and shoes and drum twice already but that's wear and tear like the wiper blades and the oil changes.

Other than those, it is a superb car and if I had to choose a car to buy, I would not think twice and would gladly buy this Camry again.

oh I forgot to mention. The rubber hosing connectors on the fuel lines have rotted out so I had to replace/patch up those. Didn't cost very much.

Also depends on where you live. We have too much snow and salt on the roads almost half year so you can just imagine the rust that accumulates each year due to the salt.

I wander what changes they made on the '97 2.2 engine to cause the sludge problem...?? Has anyone read or heard what specifics on the sludging problem??

Best car I ever owned. 144,000 miles still running strong. Have had normal wear and tear problems. Had a bad fuel injector which was a pain but apparently rare. Common problems I and others seem to have are motor mounts, vsv valve, light in dash behind climate control, light behind 'D' in dashboard, crack in top of radiator, couple of oil gaskets. But engine has good compression, no leaks, no burning, transmission fine. Not much more you can ask for that amount of miles.

Also the gen 3's (92-96)are the best. The 2.2 L 4 cylinder engines have no history of sludge engine problems like the Gen 4. There is a little more history of engine problems with the 6 cylinder but not much, I would still buy a 6 cylinder to. The Gen 4's took a step back, Gen 5's look good but to early to tell how they will hold up.

'92 to '96 Camrys are the same except taillights & headlights.... Most other parts are interchangeable... The outside door handle are different though.... I have been very pleased with the 2.2 engine, great workhorse with good MPG..... The wishbone engine stablizer (on left top) tends to go bad.... I also had the filter Condensor inside the distributor short out (got engine hot) taking out the ign. fuse.... Hope this helps.... Bob


The 95 and 96's don't have the plastic extending across the back of the trunk lid from tail light to tail light. That's how I can always tell the difference between 92-94 and 95-96. The 96 has OBD II check engine light system maybe some of the 95's.

I am going to buy a 1996 Camry as it is the last year before the engine design changed and caused the oil gelling issues. I realize that Toyota has some sort of 8 year warranty covering the engine damage due to oil gelling but I would rather avoid the problem altogether. I need your advice on what you found to be weak spots or issues on your 1996 Camry so I can be aware before I started searching around for one for myself.
Thanks for your time and help,
Paul
Vancouver

I bought my 96 Camry in June 04. Excellent condition, 120k, AT, 2.2l. It was one of the smoothest running driving cars I had ever driven. But..After a few weeks I noticed it leaking and burning a little oil. Also, am getting spark knock a little when just letting off accelerator. Roll your windows down and really listen. I have to use premium fuel also. After driven for a while and idled for a few minutes, noticed smoke while driving off again. Could be valve seals I guess. I have to check my oil weekly depending on how many miles I drive. But very nice car for under $6000.

I am going to buy a 1996 Camry as it is the last year before the engine design changed and caused the oil gelling issues. I realize that Toyota has some sort of 8 year warranty covering the engine damage due to oil gelling but I would rather avoid the problem altogether. I need your advice on what you found to be weak spots or issues on your 1996 Camry so I can be aware before I started searching around for one for myself.
Thanks for your time and help,
Paul
Vancouver

I was concerned about the oil sludge issue too. But after much research I found out that Camry's made after July of 96 had a different engine ventilation system or something. It didn't allow gasses to get out so it baked on inside the engine. Mine was made in April of 96. BY the way, I had nearly 200k on my Toyota Previa before this Camry.

I bought my 96 Camry in June 04. Excellent condition, 120k, AT, 2.2l. It was one of the smoothest running driving cars I had ever driven. But..After a few weeks I noticed it leaking and burning a little oil. Also, am getting spark knock a little when just letting off accelerator. Roll your windows down and really listen. I have to use premium fuel also. After driven for a while and idled for a few minutes, noticed smoke while driving off again. Could be valve seals I guess. I have to check my oil weekly depending on how many miles I drive. But very nice car for under $6000.

You should never have to use premium gas in a 4 cylinder, waste of money. If you don't have a check engine light on, you're probaly firing pretty good, a misfire will set off your check engine light. Change of oil gaskets may end your leak.

I bought my 96 Camry in June 04. Excellent condition, 120k, AT, 2.2l. It was one of the smoothest running driving cars I had ever driven. But..After a few weeks I noticed it leaking and burning a little oil. Also, am getting spark knock a little when just letting off accelerator. Roll your windows down and really listen. I have to use premium fuel also. After driven for a while and idled for a few minutes, noticed smoke while driving off again. Could be valve seals I guess. I have to check my oil weekly depending on how many miles I drive. But very nice car for under $6000.

Hey bro RED ALERT!!!!!!!!!!! You need to contact your local Toyota dealer as soon as possible to get in on the goodwill warranty to get a free rebuilt engine. It sounds like you may have damage due to a known oil gelling/sludge problem. Toyota says it will cover it for 8 years and unlimited kilometers. I don't know if it applies to pre 97 or not (I have seen info saying both ) but it is worth your time to check it out asap before the year ends. If you are not covered by the warranty by all means change the valve seals. I changed them on a 1.5L Tercel and it only took about 2 hours. It was burning so much oil that when I stopped at a traffic light the smoke would drift past the front of the car! Hard enough to look cool in an 86 Tercel - let alone one with a built in smoke screen... After the seals were done it didn't smoke anymore. You need to rent a valve spring compressor ($10 at your local rental place). To prevent the valve from falling into the engine: rotate the crankshaft until that cylinder is at top dead centre and push 2 conductor lamp cord in through the spark plug hole. Then compress the valve spring and remove the keepers and springs from that one cylinder. Remove and replace the seals then reverse the procedure. Do one cylinder at a time and make sure to lay rags over any passages into the engine that a part could fall into. Good luck. Here is a link to the warranty info:
http://www.corolland.com/sludge.html
Paul
Vancouver

Just a folow-up note on changing your value seals....
There is an adapter for the spark plug hole so you can blow compressed air into that cylinder when you are at TDC.... This will keep the value up & not allow it to fall down... When you compress the spring just give a light side tap to dislodge the stem keepers... I always coat the keepers with a little grease to keep them in place while unscrewing the value compreser tool... Bob

Just a folow-up note on changing your value seals....
There is an adapter for the spark plug hole so you can blow compressed air into that cylinder when you are at TDC.... This will keep the value up & not allow it to fall down... When you compress the spring just give a light side tap to dislodge the stem keepers... I always coat the keepers with a little grease to keep them in place while unscrewing the value compreser tool... Bob

Sorry I forgot about the air compressor attachment. Our compressor was a bit dodgy at the time so I didn't trust it to keep the valve up. So I came up with plan B (the power cord ). I loosen up the valve spring retainers/keepers before putting the valve spring compressor on. I do it with a deep socket held against the top of the valve spring (in line with the spring - not against its side or you will break the valve) and hit it a few times with a hammer. This compresses and releases the valve spring a few times and seems to loosen the keepers for easier removal.
Thanks for replying
Paul

How much does this cost at a shop? Is this what they call a valve job? Or is this just the valve seals? I was told it was a thousand bucks! Probably all labor.

How much does this cost at a shop? Is this what they call a valve job? Or is this just the valve seals? I was told it was a thousand bucks! Probably all labor.

No this is not a valve job. A valve job entails removing the cylinder head and machining the valves, and valve seats in the head. Along with a bunch of other work which may be needed. What I described is simply replacing some rubber seals which depending on the condition of your motor may be all you need to do to get rid of the oil burning problem. I was suprised at how much it improved the 3 cars I have done it to. A mechanic can do a dry then a wet compression test on your car to see if you have leaking valves (which means a valve job) or if the compression is ok then just do the seals. A dry compression test (no extra oil squirted into the spark plug hole by the mechanic) will show if your compression is low. When the test is repeated after a few squirts of oil are put in through the spark plug hole, a continued low reading means a leaky valve in that cylinder, if the reading goes up then it indicates worn piston rings. The thought is that the extra oil helps seal the piston to the cylinder for a few strokes which improves the compression allowing the mechanic to differentiate between the two paths for the compression leak.
Good luck.
Paul

Any idea of what this would cost at a shop? I am financially challenged so I am always worried about $$$. Thanks

The 2.2 L 4 cylinder engines have no history of sludge engine problems like the Gen 4. There is a little more history of engine problems with the 6 cylinder but not much, I would still buy a 6 cylinder to. es.

Both the 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. Camry's had the sludge problem. Both are covered under 8 year extended warranty for MY 1997 - 2001 (the V-6 is also for 2002) and with no mileage limit for repair of engine sludge. (go to www.autosafety.org for copies of articles and information on the Toyota sludge/gel program). There are 3.3 million vehicles covered under the program, but it also includes other models with the same engines (Avalon, Sienna, Highlander, Solara, a couple of Lexus models, etc.)

Warning, I have heard claims where it looks like sludge, smells like sludge, sounds like sludge but the dealership will tell you "not sludge" to avoid having to do the repair under the policy. They get more $$ if they make you pay for repair. Get a separte verdict from independent mechanic if you think this is a problem.

I wander what changes they made on the '97 2.2 engine to cause the sludge problem...?? Has anyone read or heard what specifics on the sludging problem??

Apparently, the sludge comes from increased temperature around the cylinders in the engine models past 96. To make the engines have cleaner emissions, toyota decreased the size of the coolant passages around the cylinders. This caused the cylinders to run hotter, thereby burning more of the fuel and other junk. Of course, the increased temperature in the cylinders caused the oil in that area to get hotter and be more likely to sludge.

How do they FIX the problem????... I would think that they would have to put a new short block in with larger cooling passages... Bob

How do they FIX the problem????... I would think that they would have to put a new short block in with larger cooling passages... Bob

They don't really consider it a "problem", even though the issue was fixed in the newer Camrys. If the oil is changed as regularly as Toyota recommends (no exceptions), then the sludge problem supposedly is very unlikely to occur. These engines are basically extremely picky about maintenance. I've gone 9000+ miles before between oil changes on my Camry and have no signs of damage, even after 165k+ miles. Engine runs strong and fairly smooth with barely any oil loss. Maybe a quart every 2,000 miles.

To sum it all up, there isn't a fix that I know of for an engine that hasn't sludged yet. The way they "fix" an engine that IS sludged is by replacing the damaged parts with un-damaged ones. All in all, I think it is an unfortunate situation since Toyota's have been known so well as being bulletproof cars .