SR20DET S13 Problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My friend has a SR20DET S13 Red Top and he's been having probelms with it. When he starts to drive the car it starts to buck and the exhaust is really loud. The first thing we did was check for leaks but there are none. Then we started adjusting the TPS (thorttle position sensor) and it worked. The car ran perfect for about a half hour or so. After that it started doing it again and now with a new TPS and clip for it...it still doesn't work. We look at my SR20DET and ajusted it to that but no good. Now I don't think it is TPS.....

Any ideas????????????????/

buck, and ehaust is loud, thats all??????
the discription is vague, but check you fuel, it might be sending more fuel in than needed. not realy sure, is there a spike or drop in rpm, is the the rpm needle moving up and down, is the motor shaking? and does it do it only when he is taking off or even when idling?

buck, and ehaust is loud, thats all??????
the discription is vague, but check you fuel, it might be sending more fuel in than needed.

We checked all the Injectors and test them with a multimeter and the fuel pump.

The car feels like there is a lot of stress being on it and it can't go fast. Around 2500rpm the car won't stop buckin but it passes as the rpm's go up. Thats why I thought it was like a dead spot in the TPS but I don't. Also after you go go past like 5,000 rpm it picks up speed fast.

Thats all that happens with the car.

You might want to check you distributor, and ignition system, sounds like a spark problem, not 100%, I ain't that good at diagnostics.

You might want to check you distributor

Yea that be it y0!!!11doh!!!11

have you checked the MAF and its wiring?

His SR20DET doesn't have a distributor and the cam angle sensor was tested and so was the MAF.

Every freaking car has a distributer, whether it is mechanical or electronic, under electronic you could have the single coil packs over each cylinder, or the single unit that all plug into. You could also have like the pontiacs dist which uses a coilpack for every two cylinders. BOTTOM LINE, every car has some form of distributer.

Unless he somehow did all the wiring straight from the battery haha. Your right man. EVERY car has a distributor.

so is it fixed? what happened?

We can't figure it out so he's probably going to send the car to paisley automotive they can fix the car no problem they are just alittle expensive.

Thanks though

good luck keep us posted!!

Every freaking car has a distributer, whether it is mechanical or electronic, under electronic you could have the single coil packs over each cylinder, or the single unit that all plug into. You could also have like the pontiacs dist which uses a coilpack for every two cylinders. BOTTOM LINE, every car has some form of distributer.


DIS

Distributorless Ignition System.........




also back on topic... put your MAF meter onto his car and see if that helps.. it sounds like that is the problem... same sorta thing happened when my brothers Maxima's MAF got wet. I am about 90% certain the problem is electrical and involves telling the computer how to run the engine, if its not the MAF look for other sensors, wires, and the actual computer for problems...

let us know what the problem is when u find it

Every freaking car has a distributer, whether it is mechanical or electronic, under electronic you could have the single coil packs over each cylinder, or the single unit that all plug into. You could also have like the pontiacs dist which uses a coilpack for every two cylinders. BOTTOM LINE, every car has some form of distributer.
ahhh.......... no. sr20's are distributorless and have coilpacks and a crank angle sensor.


go to www.freshalloy.com advanced section, people are more knowledgable there.


if you said that you fooled around with the tps and it worked, then it didn't... sounds like its your tps. just try to find another one and plop it on. other than that it might be your timing.

dude i have nothing to help but how does your boddy have a s13, and is it legal and how did he get it legal

dude i have nothing to help but how does your boddy have a s13, and is it legal and how did he get it legal


what a Tool


I was gonna put one of my witty comments right there but I decided this was more fitting

Somebody is comming to the house tomorrow to look at the car so I will let you all know what was wrong with the car as long as he can figure it out lol.

Hey in the friend that is having the trouble we just put a new MAF and checked all of its wiring and it is still not running right. We also have adjusted the TPS and checking the timing many times and still no luck. Thanks for all the help and if you can think of any other things please let us know
-Matt

Check the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Sounds like a lot of trouble. Run a compression test. At this point just start checking everything. Have fun.

I agree with sr20, it definately sounds electrical/computer related.

I have an s13 and when I was going through serious wiring problems and bad connections my car would buck; because, each time the car died I would slide forward depressing the gas pedal simultaneous the rocking of the engine and battery would cause whatever faulty wire to work again hence car would run properly causing quick acceleration. Then the break would occur and repeat the above process - Bucking. I hope this is ends up being a quick fix for you; I on the other hand, am still trying to work out the bugs.

um, I really don't think it is his MAF because I had the same problem with my blacktop conversion. Bucking at boost levels.....It is most likly your fuel pump and injectors. I changed mine out to a warblo 255 and 555cc nismo injectors with a retuned ecu and now I'm running oh so strong. :evillol:

I'm so sick of people saying that the MAF is bad :screwy: when half the time its not!!! If the MAF was bad it would be in limp mode and you would not get any boost and would not pass 2500rpm. I know this from personal experience :nono:

what kind of BOV do you have? the blitz one on my friends car causes it to idle like shiz...he found in the manual somewhere that if its set too soft, or leaking, the idle will surge as its letting precious vacuum escape

he has a turbo xs bov

Im assuming its an RFL then? i'd suggest playing with the settings on the BOV, maybe take it back to nothing, and going from there....wont hurt anything....may not be the problem...just wanted to throw it out there

we took the bov out but it didn't do anything.
He has a warblo 255 fuel pump already in. I have nismo 740cc injectors in my sr20 so I have an extra pair of the stock injectors and an extra computer. We are going to put my old injectors and computer in tomorrow and see what happens.
I'll post tomorrow and tell you what happened

I agree with the MAF suggestion I have had 2 sylvias and 2 180 sx's here and 2 skylines and that is classic MAF get a new maf or borrow one and test it.

we already put a new maf flow on and tested it and that isn't the problem.... I put a new knock sensor on but that didn't do anything.

to reiterate was others have said, you may have a fueling problem. suffering in performance at low rpms, and reaching ratio equilibrium @ high rpms is just another version of running rich. Excuse me...you DO have some fuel trouble.was there a fuel pressure regulator previously installed? it should be right after the fuel pump.

the same thing happened to my RNN14, after a hour of hard driving, the fuel would just rush in there (more like gyrating pulses)like your mother on popeyes (ok, bad analogy). when dropping to low rpms the car would just stall from the surge of fuel going through there. to mitigate this? well i didnt do anything. i wrote it off as a electrical sensor nuance from abuse.

i guess its best to see what happens with that good computer and regular injectors