i've inherited an ignition problem; HELP!

in december last year i lost my father and i got his 1966 tempest, the motor was changed and a remote push button start switch is now needed to start the car,the motor has an HEI ignition i can not figure a way to eliminate the remote switch can any one help me?:banghead:

I have seen various kits online to switch from turn-key to push button, you might want to check jegs or summit for them.

thanks but i want to go the other way around from the push button to just the key.i bought a new key switch but had to rewire to get it to work "because of the HEI" according to the parts store guys.i'm pretty sure that its in the wiring that needs to be changed to give the HEI a constant when the key is turned to the start pos. any more advisewill help

Goose, you could always run a wire directly from the solonoid up to the "BAT" side of the distributor. Use the "R" terminal on the solonoid. That's how Chevy had their "bypass" rigged.

i'll givthat a try i'm to the point that i'll try anything to get it to work like factory again.thanks for the advise

I guess I just do not understand the problem here. Order a new ignition switch and wire it as it should then make sure to have a ignition switched wire go to the HEI dist. Just make sure to fuse it.

Gm uses a purple wire that goes to the "s" terminal on the starter relay when key is in the start position. Use a 12 volt test light and see if it has power when in that position. If it doesnt you just might have the park/nuetral saftey switch adjusted wrong or it has just worn out all together. Dont fret, its easy to fix. I believe on your car it will be on the base of the steering column. All cars use that type of system so Joe Public wont start his car up in gear and run someone over. You can just jump acros it to eliminate it with out buying a new one too. Now for the next part. when your car came out, points were still used in it so GM ran a wire from the "r" terminal up to the coil, so the point would have 12 volts to start engine, when you released key to on position, the power from key switch would go thru a resistor wire to let points run on 6-8 volts, and would not burn up points. You dont need the wire from "r " terminal any more with HEI. Just tape it back, or cut it, and forget it. Now for HEI power, GM has power take off spots on it fuse block inside car under dash. Look for "IGN" terminals and run a 12 guage red wire to BAT terminal on HEI. The IGN terminal on fuse block is already fused so dont sweat that. Just tape off the resitor wire that went to the coil and forget it also. I have done alot of swaps just like yours for many years and it is that simple.