97 GC problems
paulgreen
10-24-2004, 06:12 AM
Hi to all - firstly - it's great to see an active Forum - I'm having a few nightmares!!!
1) Drivers door lock doesn't work all of a sudden ... the remote doesn't open the driver door, although it opens the other doors.. The alarm also no longer beeps, although it does flash the LED.
2) My blow motor isn't kicking out anything.. I have to go at above 60mph to get enough airflow to clear the weindscreen. Someone said about the wiring being notoriosly crap on the blower.. if this is the case, where do I find it and how do I go about fixing it?
3) The heated seats don't work.. I can hear relays clicking in, but they're not heating up - I read somewhere about moving the resistors closer together, but don't remember where I saw this.
4) Since taking it in for an LPG conversion, I have no backlight on the dash or radio when I turn the headlights on. The onboard computer screens both have light all the time, but that's it. When the headlights are turned off the radio light is on full glow.
5) I have a wire hanging down by the brake pedal (just behind the diagnostic port) that doesn't seem to have a home.. any ideas if this is normal?
I have checked all the fuses, including both bays, but none are blown.. are there any other things I need to check? Idiot's guide greatfully received.
1) Drivers door lock doesn't work all of a sudden ... the remote doesn't open the driver door, although it opens the other doors.. The alarm also no longer beeps, although it does flash the LED.
2) My blow motor isn't kicking out anything.. I have to go at above 60mph to get enough airflow to clear the weindscreen. Someone said about the wiring being notoriosly crap on the blower.. if this is the case, where do I find it and how do I go about fixing it?
3) The heated seats don't work.. I can hear relays clicking in, but they're not heating up - I read somewhere about moving the resistors closer together, but don't remember where I saw this.
4) Since taking it in for an LPG conversion, I have no backlight on the dash or radio when I turn the headlights on. The onboard computer screens both have light all the time, but that's it. When the headlights are turned off the radio light is on full glow.
5) I have a wire hanging down by the brake pedal (just behind the diagnostic port) that doesn't seem to have a home.. any ideas if this is normal?
I have checked all the fuses, including both bays, but none are blown.. are there any other things I need to check? Idiot's guide greatfully received.
Audiobahn77
10-24-2004, 05:31 PM
Well, I had the same problem with my blower motor wiring. I just moved the wiring around (wiggled it) and it has worked ever since then (about 3 years ago). I wasn't able to get any air flow when it wasn't working, but my best advice is to mess around with those wires and check for shorting.
As far as the door...that could be your actually locking module inside your door. I'm no genius, so please don't get upset if I'm wrong. You can check out the12volt.com website for some good wiring info. Like I said before, I'm not a professional vehicle mechanic, so I would consult with a Jeep dealership for advice. I have just given you my thoughts and suggestions.
GOOD LUCK!
As far as the door...that could be your actually locking module inside your door. I'm no genius, so please don't get upset if I'm wrong. You can check out the12volt.com website for some good wiring info. Like I said before, I'm not a professional vehicle mechanic, so I would consult with a Jeep dealership for advice. I have just given you my thoughts and suggestions.
GOOD LUCK!
paulgreen
10-25-2004, 02:12 AM
For anybody else that's got a similar problem I have a melted connector going in to the box between the car and the blower motor - I'm assuming this is a resistor pack or something.. so I'm relaxed about that now.. I've also volt and imp tested the door.. and as said above, it does seem to be the actual lock - voltage is getting right down to where the lock plugs in to the door when I press the button, and I can't find an earth leak on the circuit... the one that's frustrating me is the dash light.
Audiobahn77
10-25-2004, 07:36 AM
Have you checked for power or gnd on that wire that's just hanging out with no home? Try it with your lights on and off to see if thats your dash lights. Check your dash light dimmer, maybe that's turned all the way down or gone bad?
Cam7
10-25-2004, 07:46 AM
What color is the wire hanging down by the brake pedal? As far as your dash it sounds like a short. When they did the conversion did they do any work under the dash? Since you checked fuses I would look for a short. Hard to do if you dont have wirring diagram. Check your bulbs also a short could be in your guage cluster or Body Control Module.
paulgreen
10-25-2004, 05:55 PM
Hi guys.. the cable that's hanging down is a multi pin affair.. it's two rows of pins (uncounted) and it appears just a bit further down from the diagnostic port..
How do I check for ground leaks? They did have the dash off when the main dealer had it in, but god only knows what they did to it. The dimmer switch appears fine.. it turns the courtesy lights on and appears to be no different to before they had it in to work on.
How do I check for ground leaks? They did have the dash off when the main dealer had it in, but god only knows what they did to it. The dimmer switch appears fine.. it turns the courtesy lights on and appears to be no different to before they had it in to work on.
Audiobahn77
10-25-2004, 09:38 PM
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/3e/8f/0900823d80153e8f.jsp
Glad to hear about your dimmer!
Dale sent me this link to wire diagrams. This should let you know what any wire is in your Jeep. They are pretty easy to read, but then again...I also work on multi-million dollar aircraft as an electrician. To check for shorts (what you call "ground leaks") use a multimeter and switch it to ohms and stick one lead to the chasis(ground) and the other to bare wire or pins. If you get zero (or close to 0) ohms, you have a short. If you have 1 M or more ohms....I would say it's pretty much open or not grounded. Then again, I don't know what kind of meter you would be using (digital or analog). Hopefully this makes sense to you.
Glad to hear about your dimmer!
Dale sent me this link to wire diagrams. This should let you know what any wire is in your Jeep. They are pretty easy to read, but then again...I also work on multi-million dollar aircraft as an electrician. To check for shorts (what you call "ground leaks") use a multimeter and switch it to ohms and stick one lead to the chasis(ground) and the other to bare wire or pins. If you get zero (or close to 0) ohms, you have a short. If you have 1 M or more ohms....I would say it's pretty much open or not grounded. Then again, I don't know what kind of meter you would be using (digital or analog). Hopefully this makes sense to you.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026