Rear Defrost Help!!

Hello!
I have been trying to get my rear defrost to work better. I have tested it and I am getting power to it, however not enough to melt anything. Does anyone know of ways to increase power to rear window? I have pulled tail gate appart and cleaned up the connectors and this still didnt work.....
Any help is greatly appreciated!
THank you!

Are you sure you don't have breaks in the conductors on the back window???
They sell a kit which will put back the resistive coating on it and make it work again.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10101&productId=2490&catalogId=10101&langId=-1

I tested it across the window with a volt meter and I had juice, just not enought juice I guess......Maybe the contacts are wore out, but I'll check for cracks also!

Might be benificial to run new wire through tail gate? Any idea which wires I'd need to splice to on truck side of tail gate?

Thank you!

No, I don't have any idea Sorry. I would think just run back from the connectors and see if they are the same color from a wire loom on the truck side.
BUT ....
Check and see if a few of the traces are not broken. You can have all of them broken but one and still get voltage across the two connectors. I am just saying there might be a few that have a scratch and therefore not connected and not giving off any heat, thus not defrosting the window.

Wrap a strip of aluminum foil around the tip of the multimeter probe. Press the foil to the center of each of the horizontal heating wires with your finger, one at a time, and the other probe to the vertical end wires with the defogger switch and ignition switch both on.

The wire you are testing is good if the reading is about 5V. If the reading is about 0V or 10V, the wire has a break in it.

Once you find broken wires, place the voltmeter (+) lead on the defogger (+) terminal and the voltmeter (-) lead with the foil strip against the heat wire at the end nearest the (+) terminal. Slide the foil toward the (-) end of the heat wire. The point at which the voltmeter deflects between 0V and a higher voltage is the place the heat wire is broken.

If the wire is not broken, the voltmeter indicates 0V at the positive end and gradually increases to about 12V as the probe is moved to the opposite end of the heat wire.

Repair breaks with Dupont paste No. 4817 using masking tape to mask the sides of the wire so the repair is as narrow as the wire.

Thanks Brian! I'll give that a try!! If I lived some place warm, I wouldnt have this problem!!! Have a great weekend!

You're welcome

Does your vehicle have a rear window, door, defrost, wiper, doom light relay? It does control when your defroster can be energized through relay logic. Wouldn't want ya to turn on the defroster if the winders down in the door eh.
It's a fairly complicated circuit that will require you to have a schematic for. The Haynes manual leaves a lot to be desired here, recommend the factory wiring book.

"If you can't open your doors the snow depth is just getting FUN!"