Ignition switch now trans codes

Okay, So I found this forum and discovered how useful it is. I am now a member of this forum in search of help...
1997 Blazer 4WD LT I had all of the classic symptoms of the dreeded ignition switch gone bad. I replaced it with the help of this forum. Now after the new switch my SES light is on and the only codes that come up are for the trans., go figure because I no longer have OD or 1st gear. I have put the old ign. switch back on and the same code comes up. Please help me. This is my work truck and my only vehicle.

First of all, you should have left the ignition switch in the vehicle after you changed it out. Why would you remove it after installing? You should read the codes OR disconnect the battery cables for 10 minutes or longer to reset the PCM then see if you still have the codes.

First of all, you should have left the ignition switch in the vehicle after you changed it out. Why would you remove it after installing? You should read the codes OR disconnect the battery cables for 10 minutes or longer to reset the PCM then see if you still have the codes.

I called GM service and explained what is happening. They told me right off without hesitation that it was the ign. switch. They have seen the same problem and have rebuilt a couple of trans. only to find out it was the damn switch. That is why I tried the old one again. Keep in mind I did not have any trans problems with the old one to begin with. After I put the new one in is when the trans started acting up.

Reset the computer by removing the negative and positive battery terminal while you are doing this.

did that already and there was no change

Ok, well, you need to put the new switch back in there. Having the old faulty switch still in there solves nothing.

What are the codes you are getting, we need the exact numbers.

I don't remember exact numbers because I am a dumb ass and just went to Auto Zone. sorry guys... I received codes regaurding selonoid a and b

same thing happened to me. I had 5 codes

I know it is something electrical. I don't think that the damn selonoids would have gone bad sitting in the garage for 4 hours. It doesn't make much sense.

Here is the codes i got P0758 solenoid B,P0753 Solenoid A, P0785 Shift timing solenoid, P0740 Torque converter clutch, P1860 Transfer case contact plate D. The autozone employee said that my tranny was bad. It turned out to be the ignition box (Black Box) I know you don't have the codes but i put this on here for reference later

What do you mean by ignition "box"

under the key hole there is a black box that is connected to wires. The box can not be changed without replaceing the wire hrness that is attached. Is this what u did?

Yes, I bought the Wells brand from AutoZone.

When you changed the ignition switch, on the part that has the 10mm bolt (this bolt is used to pull the connectors together and maintain a firm seat) on it, there are two plugs on either side that are a part of the entire socket, they slide down and snap in place, one is gray and one is black.

Do you have them seated all the way?

here is a picture.
http://www.smpcorp.com/mycgi/ibg.asp?parts=US295
Just wanted to make sure we are on the same page

Good try on the pic it did not come through. As for the other two harnesses in the block. I believe those are for the turn signals. Are you talking at the fire wall under the dash?

No, I am not. I am talking about the socket that is part of the ignition switch harness. The plug is mounted to a plastic mount about halfway between the dash and firewall.

I am afraid I am not following you

After rereading your post, did you change the electrical ignition switch or the part the key goes into (lockset)?

the elec. ign. switch

If you changed the electrical switch, then I am talking about the socket with the 10mm bolt going through the center of it. That socket has a place on either side for two flat in-line connectors to slide into. One should be gray, the other black.

Is the 10mm bolt red?

yep!

Finally I can answer your question. Yes, all there harnesses are seated firmly into that block

Ok, let's look at the facts:

1. Vehicle was running fine except it displayed the symptoms of the "dreaded" ignition switch.
2. You removed the old switch.
3. You installed the new switch.
4. You now have codes.

Logic would dictate that you need to recheck your work. Unplug the socket with the red 10mm bolt and ensure that you have not bent over any pins. Also, inspect the pins on the two flat side connectors.

It sure sounds as though it is something that you have done and not something that was there before.

Ok?

Go back to AutoZone and see if they can get the codes again.

We need them for a proper diagnosis.

I got that part that is what I have spent most of the day scratching my head about. I can't see where anything is wrong

Sometimes, even with myself, it comes time to drop back ten and punt. In other words, take a break.

The job you did can be difficult, especially with the E5 or is it 6 bolt on the top of the switch under the lockset. You are probably ready to pull your hair out, but don't. I just want to help if I can.

You really, IMHO, don't want to drive your truck without 1st gear to go and have the codes checked. Next, you didn't have the problem before swapping out the switch which now leaves you with the connundrum. What do I do?

Take a break and reinspect your work, you might find that when you installed the socket's on the plug under the dash that you folded over a pin or two or whatever or maybe you didn't get it seated all the way.

Thanks for your help I will check it out tomorrow. Its getting cold and I am tired of looking at it right now.

Yea,

Mikado14 is right, sometimes you get frustrated and cannot see the real problem.

Ever get really frustrated with something and then have someone walk right over and point out something in your face that you missed?

Like ripping your engine apart and putting it back together and it not starting and freaking out only to have someone come over and show you that you forgot to hook the battery up again.

Hehehe.... We all have been there. ;)

If you have a digital voltmeter or actually any meter that will check resistance unbolt that harness connector and check the ignition switch side. With the key in the on and start positions you should have continuity between ports C1 and D5, white and red wires(on older switches the white may be pink/white). Or with a voltmeter and the ignition harness connected check for 12V at the trans fuse or cluster fuse if 98 or newer(forgot what year you have) check both sides of the fuse to make sure the fuse is good.