Wheel Bearing Problem

I've got an '89 Lesabre with a bad wheel bearing on the passager side rear wheel. It started about 12,000 miles ago and produced a hollow-like humming sound when taking slight curves on the highway. Now 12,000 miles later at 187,300 it's very loud. With the wheel off the ground I find that there's lots of play in every direction including when I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock positions.
I'm wondering if the car is safe to drive on the highway. Also, how difficult is it to replace? It's the rear right side wheel with no ABS.
Thanks,
Matt

Hi Matt
I believe the wheel bearing spindles are sealed units with no servicing available, Meaning you just remove the brakedrum take the brakeshoe's loose and unbolt the four bolts holding the spindle hub to the backing plate and replace the whole spindle assembly, Personally I have never seen one go bad, My 94 lesabre has 216,000 miles and still going, as for being safe I would think it isn't safe, at some point it may lockup completely and depending on the road conditions make it very hard to control, I would also check for a used one from the wrecking yard, (with lower miles of course)depending on the cost, If you are handy at all I don't think it's too difficult to change, just be aware of what goes where with the rear brake shoes ie:automatic adjusters.
Hope this helps.
Rick

I've recently replaced the hub/wheel bearing assembly. There is no need to remove the brake shoes or brake components, but care must b taken not to disturb them in removing the hub. There are four T50 Torx bolts holding it in. Basically it just pulls out, but mind you, the conical seat of the hub assembly will be rusted in. The best tool to remove it would be a sliding weight type puller, but a hammer and tire iron with lots of cursing can do it to. These hubs cost $150 new and the salvage yard for about $25.

I wasn't sure if you could get the hub/spindle off with the brakes in place or not, and from memory the bolts I remember holding it on were kinda like a rod bolt with a special head to keep it from turning with a 9/16 sae fine thread nut, Thanks Yogi for clarifying it.
Rick

Just to clarify: The brake shoes and components are attached to the backing plate. When you remove the four bolts (why weren't studs/nuts used??), that retains the hub, and remove the hub, the backing plate will fall free. You must then beware how it rests (i.e. not on your brake line). There may also be a wheel sensor (abs/traction ctrl) in the back of the hub that you need to disconnect first.

Hi
The original post said no ABS, and as for why weren't bolt's and nuts used, That's just the way GM builds them.

Chech your rubber mounts which mounts the lower steering unit to the chassis.
On my '93 LeSabre they were completely shut and replacing them fixed the problem.

Oh my goodness, this has not been an easy repair so far. The fact that it's an old car and that it sees Wisconsin winters is not helping. First the drum was very hard to get off. Then I stripped one of the Torx bolts and had to drill it out. Then it took a while to seperate the brake assembly from the car. Now the bearing is still stuck in the brake assembly which is now hanging from a chain, that's where I'm at right now. I have the whole thing sprayed down with penetrating oil and will work on it again tomorrow. Are there any tricks to removing the old bearing from the brake assembly? . . .besides just hammering?
Also, where can I find replacement Torx bolts? So far I found out that Napa Auto Parts doesn't carry them.
Thanks!

Try Ace Hardware for the torques bolt.

Thanks . . .Ace is the Place!
Before I went to Ace I checked Napa for the Torx bolts, they didn’t have them and sent me to a huge fastener store called fastenall and they didn’t have it either. I then checked some more auto parts stores and none of them had it. I then went to Ace and they had a good match that was hardened and the correct size and length, however, it was a hex head. Used it anyway.

Well it’s done. Car glides down the road so quietly now! Before I replaced the rear wheel bearing I was afraid that I had bad bearings in the front as well because the sound and vibration was coming from everywhere. It turns out it was only the rear right side wheel bearing.

The old bearing was completely shot. The casing on the rear of the bearing was completely rusted through with large holes exposing the moving parts to the elements. I poked it with a screwdriver and it completely broke off. I think this corrosion lead to the failure of the bearing.

The new bearing was $91 from the advanceautoparts.com website . . .that was the cheapest I could find. Be careful not to strip out the torx bolts, they are hard to replace and not fun to drill out. To get the bearing/brake assembly off the car (after the bolts are removed) I had the best luck spraying it down with penetrating oil then used a chisel and hammer to separate it where the two parts joined. Just stick the chisel in the crack and go all the way around tapping the chisel.