Parking Brakes
mchristo63
10-18-2004, 10:16 AM
I am about to tackle my '99 Silverado parking brake issue (I think you all know what I am talking about). I inspected my rotors yesterday and from their appearence I will need to replace them. I am looking for some experienced help. I will be replacing the parking brake shoes and rotors. What do I need to look out for and is there any suggestions or tips you can give me. Yes, we know these are a pain in the as*, but what can you do other than repair them.
Thanks
Thanks
Seabornman
10-18-2004, 02:52 PM
Make sure you have the parts to rebuild the parking brake adjusters and replace the rubber boot in the backing plate that the actuator goes through. The GM parking brake shoe kit comes with all the stuff you need, and wasn't but a few dollars more than aftermarket. The other guys' may not have all of the parts. Be prepared to pull the axles to rebuild the brake adjusters if you live in the rust belt. You cannot remove the adjusters or their mounting casting without pulling the axles (great design, huh?). I put new seals in, replaced the fluid in differential and cleaned and painted the differential cover while I was at it.
Buy a heavy-duty 18 mm socket and be prepared to put a cheater bar (mine was 4 ft. long) to break loose the caliper bolts. They are held on with thread locker and you can't get an impact wrench into two of them. You will need to get your truck raised up quite a bit in order to get cheater bar in place. Work safe!
I bought cheap rotors and mid-grade pads. They're just going to rust up and seize anyway. Buy synthetic grease and lube up all of the bearing points of the pads and liberally apply into the actuator cavity in an effort to keep water out. If I had more time, I would have sealed the tin backing plate with silicone where there are gaps. That backing plate will be gone by the time I do next brake job - rusted away.
My brakes were dangerously shot at 55,000 miles. New rotors, pads, parking brake shoes, seals, etc. all the way around cost $430 +/- in parts. GOOD LUCK!
Buy a heavy-duty 18 mm socket and be prepared to put a cheater bar (mine was 4 ft. long) to break loose the caliper bolts. They are held on with thread locker and you can't get an impact wrench into two of them. You will need to get your truck raised up quite a bit in order to get cheater bar in place. Work safe!
I bought cheap rotors and mid-grade pads. They're just going to rust up and seize anyway. Buy synthetic grease and lube up all of the bearing points of the pads and liberally apply into the actuator cavity in an effort to keep water out. If I had more time, I would have sealed the tin backing plate with silicone where there are gaps. That backing plate will be gone by the time I do next brake job - rusted away.
My brakes were dangerously shot at 55,000 miles. New rotors, pads, parking brake shoes, seals, etc. all the way around cost $430 +/- in parts. GOOD LUCK!
mchristo63
10-18-2004, 03:17 PM
I am looking to purchase new rotors also. I am finding them around $90.00ea. What did you pay for your rotors?
As for the adjuster, the wheel still turns so I hope I can just clean. I really don't want to pull axles.
As for the adjuster, the wheel still turns so I hope I can just clean. I really don't want to pull axles.
Seabornman
10-19-2004, 07:52 AM
If you can turn the star wheel, you probably can lube it up and avoid pulling axles. I think I paid about $70 each for rear rotors at NAPA. Other stores were more.
mchristo63
10-19-2004, 08:34 AM
I found them for $37.99 each (www.rockauto.com) Not sure of how good they are, but they are new.
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