slp loudmouth
wufpak18
10-16-2004, 02:24 PM
I was just wondering how difficult it is to install SLP loudmouth in a 96' Trans Am.
I want to purchase but my dad doesn't think my friend and I can install our self.
Please inform me of any info that you think would help persuade my dad.
I want to purchase but my dad doesn't think my friend and I can install our self.
Please inform me of any info that you think would help persuade my dad.
FormulaLT1
10-16-2004, 02:48 PM
Well these are the instruction's for the Borla system but they will be very similiar for your install just that you don't have to pay attention to the adjustable plates parts.
*** You will need a Socket set(deep and regular), Hammer,
Ramps and/or jack stands and a tube of anti-seize ***
--------------------------
1. The first and foremost step is to remove the old system. This is the most time consuming part of the job. Depending on how old and rusty it is and the equipment – tools that you have depends on how difficult it will be. If you will be doing the job in your own garage with ramps and/or jack stands, you will also need a Sawsall do to the fact that the car will not be high enough off the ground to remove the old system in one piece and will have to be cut off.
2. Remove the clamp behind the Y-Pipe and tap the pipe with a hammer to loosen it. Then if the system needs to be cut off, use a sawsall just in front of the rear axle where the pipe bends. You may have to make 2 cuts at an angle so the pipe doesn't bind up the saw blade.
3. Once the pipe is cut, disconnect the bolt on the passenger side hanger behind the axle and also remove the pipe hanger out of the rubber hanger on the drivers side. If you have a helper, this is a good time to have them lift up on the tips so you don't drop the rear section on you! Remove both sections of pipe and discard (They are useless now unless you want to cut the tips off and save them for some odd reason)
4. Lay out all the BORLA pipe sections on the floor in the order of each section. Start adding each piece to the vehicle from Y-Pipe back (Do NOT place any clamps on the pipes at this time. After you get all the pipe sections on, place the New muffler section back on with the rubber hanger and metal hanger in the rear (Only place the nut on the hanger a few turns, do not tighten yet)
5. Now comes the trick to having your system rattle and rub free as well as having your tips line up perfect in the rear. From under the car, start twisting each pipe starting from the Y-Pipe section to make your system FLOWS with the lines of the car on the bottom. You will see what I mean while you are doing it. Each pipe is bent to make the curve around the axle fit nicely as long as you do this step correctly. To test that you did it right, take your hand and stick it behind the section just in front of the axle up by the heat shield. You should be able to fit most of your hand behind it (unless you are a monster size person). Make sure you have clearance at every point of the system.
6. TIP - - - Do not use the clamps supplied with the BORLA, they tend to leak ALLOT. Go to your local auto supply store and purchase (5) 3” U-Clamps. There are another 2 supplied with the system, the smaller one supplied goes on the first section of pipe at the Y-Pipe connection.
7. Now starting from the Y-Pipe, start placing clamps on the sections and go a little more then hand tight to keep the sections in place.
8. Now bolt up both rear tip sections to the body of the car with the nuts that are already on the rear section. You will see them from underneath the car, but only hand tighten the nuts to the hangers supplied so they move up and down.
9. Now insert the BORLA plate you want to use or no plate to run the system wide open and insert the three bolts into the triangular connection (HINT- Use some anti-seize on the bolt threads and some on the inside of the flange threads to keep them from rusting up to make plate changes easier in the future) Tighten these bolts all the way now.
10. Now connect the passenger side tip section to the last pipe section and place a clamp on it, hand tighten.
11. Now is the time to make sure that your system is still lined up and there is plenty of clearance everywhere you see that it might rub.
12. Begin tightening all the clamps from the Y-Pipe to the rear in that order. Make sure the two last sections (Driver and passenger side tip sections are straight before tightening) This takes a bit of trial and error but it can be done quite fast with two people. One under the car adjusting the tip sections and the other looking from about 10’ away to ensure they are straight.
13. Once all pipe clamps are tightened up, it's time to align your rear tip sections. Have someone lift up on the passenger tip section and hold it where you want it. Then tighten the bolt connected to the car and then the one on the lower portion of the hanger. Repeat for the driver's side.
14. Now double-check all your connections and clamps to ensure they are tight and you still have the proper clearance over the entire system.
Also Welcome to the Forum.
*** You will need a Socket set(deep and regular), Hammer,
Ramps and/or jack stands and a tube of anti-seize ***
--------------------------
1. The first and foremost step is to remove the old system. This is the most time consuming part of the job. Depending on how old and rusty it is and the equipment – tools that you have depends on how difficult it will be. If you will be doing the job in your own garage with ramps and/or jack stands, you will also need a Sawsall do to the fact that the car will not be high enough off the ground to remove the old system in one piece and will have to be cut off.
2. Remove the clamp behind the Y-Pipe and tap the pipe with a hammer to loosen it. Then if the system needs to be cut off, use a sawsall just in front of the rear axle where the pipe bends. You may have to make 2 cuts at an angle so the pipe doesn't bind up the saw blade.
3. Once the pipe is cut, disconnect the bolt on the passenger side hanger behind the axle and also remove the pipe hanger out of the rubber hanger on the drivers side. If you have a helper, this is a good time to have them lift up on the tips so you don't drop the rear section on you! Remove both sections of pipe and discard (They are useless now unless you want to cut the tips off and save them for some odd reason)
4. Lay out all the BORLA pipe sections on the floor in the order of each section. Start adding each piece to the vehicle from Y-Pipe back (Do NOT place any clamps on the pipes at this time. After you get all the pipe sections on, place the New muffler section back on with the rubber hanger and metal hanger in the rear (Only place the nut on the hanger a few turns, do not tighten yet)
5. Now comes the trick to having your system rattle and rub free as well as having your tips line up perfect in the rear. From under the car, start twisting each pipe starting from the Y-Pipe section to make your system FLOWS with the lines of the car on the bottom. You will see what I mean while you are doing it. Each pipe is bent to make the curve around the axle fit nicely as long as you do this step correctly. To test that you did it right, take your hand and stick it behind the section just in front of the axle up by the heat shield. You should be able to fit most of your hand behind it (unless you are a monster size person). Make sure you have clearance at every point of the system.
6. TIP - - - Do not use the clamps supplied with the BORLA, they tend to leak ALLOT. Go to your local auto supply store and purchase (5) 3” U-Clamps. There are another 2 supplied with the system, the smaller one supplied goes on the first section of pipe at the Y-Pipe connection.
7. Now starting from the Y-Pipe, start placing clamps on the sections and go a little more then hand tight to keep the sections in place.
8. Now bolt up both rear tip sections to the body of the car with the nuts that are already on the rear section. You will see them from underneath the car, but only hand tighten the nuts to the hangers supplied so they move up and down.
9. Now insert the BORLA plate you want to use or no plate to run the system wide open and insert the three bolts into the triangular connection (HINT- Use some anti-seize on the bolt threads and some on the inside of the flange threads to keep them from rusting up to make plate changes easier in the future) Tighten these bolts all the way now.
10. Now connect the passenger side tip section to the last pipe section and place a clamp on it, hand tighten.
11. Now is the time to make sure that your system is still lined up and there is plenty of clearance everywhere you see that it might rub.
12. Begin tightening all the clamps from the Y-Pipe to the rear in that order. Make sure the two last sections (Driver and passenger side tip sections are straight before tightening) This takes a bit of trial and error but it can be done quite fast with two people. One under the car adjusting the tip sections and the other looking from about 10’ away to ensure they are straight.
13. Once all pipe clamps are tightened up, it's time to align your rear tip sections. Have someone lift up on the passenger tip section and hold it where you want it. Then tighten the bolt connected to the car and then the one on the lower portion of the hanger. Repeat for the driver's side.
14. Now double-check all your connections and clamps to ensure they are tight and you still have the proper clearance over the entire system.
Also Welcome to the Forum.
wufpak18
10-16-2004, 04:27 PM
thanks for the directions. that doesn't sound to hard.
FormulaLT1
10-16-2004, 07:33 PM
The worst part of dealing with a exhaust on any car is that usually stuff like hanger's or bolts and things of this sort are seized and have to be cut out because of all the heat generated everything down there just locks up. but good luck and keep us posted Blake.
chickenkicker
10-16-2004, 09:56 PM
I installed the loudmouth on mine and it was very easy to do. I just used a sawzall to cut off the stock exhaust and bolted the loudmouth right up. The only thing that was hard was sliding the stock exhaust off of the Y-pipe, that was a major pain but is do-able.
FormulaLT1
10-17-2004, 08:05 AM
Hey Chickenkicker I was Just checking out your car on cardomain, Nice T/A you should post some pics in the member's ride thread.
P.S. Wufpak you should check out his page he has some pics of the Loudmouth install.
P.S. Wufpak you should check out his page he has some pics of the Loudmouth install.
wufpak18
10-17-2004, 02:19 PM
How much ground clearance is needed to remove the stock exhaust in one piece?
FormulaLT1
10-17-2004, 02:25 PM
Have you looked under your car?
The only reason I ask is because when I was doing my exhaust it had to be cut as the rear of the cat was welded to the center pipe but when I looked up instruction for my year in the service manual it showwed the Cat being bolted in the rear so I can't really answer that because I don't believe my original exhaust that was on my car when I bought her was stock.
The only reason I ask is because when I was doing my exhaust it had to be cut as the rear of the cat was welded to the center pipe but when I looked up instruction for my year in the service manual it showwed the Cat being bolted in the rear so I can't really answer that because I don't believe my original exhaust that was on my car when I bought her was stock.
wufpak18
10-18-2004, 06:46 PM
I found a lift I can us and help from a professional so the install will be easy and it is free!
FormulaLT1
10-18-2004, 07:51 PM
Glad to here it!.
Let us know how it turns out and better yet take some pics.
Let us know how it turns out and better yet take some pics.
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