Major issues with venting to the atmosphere with my new BOV.

I got my new BOV finally. It's a TurboXS H34 BOV. If I vent it to the atmosphere, and close the dump tube on the intake, the car stalls, bucks, idles rough, does just about everything bad. If I recirculate the BOV back into the intake, it doesn't idle rough or stall, but the car doesn't seem to hit boost as hard or as quickly. Even if I pack the washers (all 5 of them) these problems still exist.

Anyone have any advice on how I can vent to the atmosphere and still be able to drive my car???

I got my new BOV finally. It's a TurboXS H34 BOV. If I vent it to the atmosphere, and close the dump tube on the intake, the car stalls, bucks, idles rough, does just about everything bad. If I recirculate the BOV back into the intake, it doesn't idle rough or stall, but the car doesn't seem to hit boost as hard or as quickly. Even if I pack the washers (all 5 of them) these problems still exist.

Anyone have any advice on how I can vent to the atmosphere and still be able to drive my car???



well according to your sig you have a GST. I belive dsm have a MAF positioned before the BOV. Thefore everytime you vent to the atmosphere your maf has no ideea less air will be available and gives the wrong info the the ECU.

So IMO there is nothing you can do to vent to the atm unless you somhow switch to a map type sensor or move the maf after the bov

I'd ask in the Eclipse forums myself, but from what I know it's creating a rich mixture since the MAF doesn't know that you are now venting to the atmosphere. A new MAF will cost around $300 I do believe. I'd just get a 1g BOV for dirt cheap since they hold good pressure and all.

Also I recommend doing more research before you start modding your car any more...

Well, I know in some dsm's it was more of a problem then in other ones. Like some people could vent without any noticable problems (of course they were still running rich), so I'd thought I'd give it a try. Turns out my car is very against venting. Anyway, now I gotta find out how to get a new MAF. But if it's 300 bucks screw it, the total cost would be the same as a 16g.

Well, I know in some dsm's it was more of a problem then in other ones. Like some people could vent without any noticable problems (of course they were still running rich), so I'd thought I'd give it a try. Turns out my car is very against venting. Anyway, now I gotta find out how to get a new MAF. But if it's 300 bucks screw it, the total cost would be the same as a 16g.


honestly just let it recirculate. Its better that way anyway, the only advantage of venting is the sound.

Yeah, if I can't figure out a way to vent it cheap, then I'll recirculate or maybe return it for some other mods until I really need it. I'm still boosting within the stock BOV's range.

But DAMN it did sound nice ;( *tear

What do you guys think about this??

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175

I can't find that much info on it though.

the type H34 was not meant to be vented to atmosphere. if you look at the spring. the tension is very weak. now if you know someone with a RFL. its basically the same thing but with a horn. but if you look at the spring. its a freaking big 8 inch long spring with very stiff tension. so no matter how many spacers you pack, its not goin to stiff enough since most RFL's with that 8 inch spring needs around 5 spacers to keep the valve shut. so if you absolutely must vent the thing off. call turbo XS and order a RFL spring. it will cost you around 5 dollars for the spring, and your BOV will sound very very similar to a RFL. so i suggest you try doin that before you recirculate it.

That HKS is just a patch. It will help but the fact is that you should not vent your blow off valve to atm.

Your MAF will have no ideea that air is lost so your ECU will be lied to causing big problems.


They explain it perfectly here:


Through our extensive testing we have found that 100% recalculating blow off valves, in this situation, always out perform vent to atmosphere blow off valves. MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor based cars run air in a closed loop. All air fuel ratios are calculated by the amount of air passing the sensor. Air that is vented from the system, after the sensor but before entering the motor is unaccounted for. Fuel is delivered to the motor by the computer based on readings by the MAF sensor. If that air is the vented out of the system and not ingested by the motor, air fuel ratios will begin to run rich. The computer will unintentionally deliver to much fuel based on its prior calculations of air flow. This venting will cause drivability issue and lagging between shifts.

http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/BOV/bov.htm

Bottom line don't mess up your car just for a sound.

Dammit Tat and Neutrino both bring up good points.

Here's the situation. I had read up on this and knew it caused some problems for some dsm's. So I ordered the H34 because it COULD be recirculated if I ran into issues with the air/fuel ratio.
However, now that I think about it, that may have ended up hurting me more than it did help me, because as Tat said, the spring wasn't made for venting and is therefore too loose for driveability.

Basically, I'm just gonna call TurboXS tommorrow and tell them my problem and see what they can do. As to what Neutrino said, yes you are right, the car will run rich inbetween shifts. I've read up on this quite a bit and yes, it will hurt performance. But I bever after reading around it hurts performance by like .2 of a seconds overall or something similiar.

Simple solution, if I go to the track, vent it back in, takes me about 5 minutes to do, no biggie. For daily driving, and for pure fun, leave it venting. How does that sound? Of course, if running rich causes serious damage, it's out of the question.

alright vettethug. . .you really need to learn about cars before you try modding them. Running rich can cause serious damage in the long run. If you run to rich, the extra fuel wont get burned off in the cylinders. So what does it do? It sits their and does whats called washing the cylinders. This is where the extra gas will actually was away the oil on your pistons and walls. Less oil means lots more friction, friction=bad for engines.

nah crunchymilk is definitly not vettethug because hes been here for a very very long time.

I'll move this to the forced induction forum. It will get more responses there.