possible crankwalk

Hi guys I was reading the 1000 already asked question regarding ticking noise near the timing belt and it went into a possible Crank-walk. “This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems” Is there other reason why there is ticking (knocking) sound coming from here. Also the noise comes and goes, and would this be a problem for having engine vibrations, belts squeaks when turning, and engine hesitatation when accelerate. I have a 98 GST AUTO.

will the a car run if it has crankwalk and what other symtoms will let you know you have a case of crankwalk

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The only way to know is to measure it. There is a lengthy thread at RKO where I describe how.

the engine will run for a certain amount of time. what happens is the main thrust bearing wears and it starts to wear on the crank sensor. eventually it'll ruin the crank sensor so the ecu won't know where the cranks is and it shuts down the engine. you'll have power and everything but it wont' start because the engine doesn't knwo when to spark, pop the injectors....and so forth.

So what do I have to measure or where can I find all the info. another my car is still under warranty but the dealer doesnt want to fix it until it is completly broken. and would this also be the reason my valve cover gets loose all the time.

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www.racingknowledge.org, in the DSM section most likely.

I wouldn't see a correlation between crankwalk and your valve cover getting loose...make sure your VC isn't cracked near the bolt holes.

Many DSMers overreact thinking they have crankwalk. You may just be hearing ticky injectors or lifter tick. Try to see if the noise is indeed coming from deep in the timing belt area, or from an injector or the valve cover. Put a screwdriver on one of the injectors and see if you feel a vibration when the ticking happens...

Many DSMers overreact thinking they have crankwalk. You may just be hearing ticky injectors or lifter tick. Try to see if the noise is indeed coming from deep in the timing belt area, or from an injector or the valve cover. Put a screwdriver on one of the injectors and see if you feel a vibration when the ticking happens...

:iagree: There are too many things that tick and knock in there that create a constant state of paranoia.

My car had cw when I bought it from the dealership. I drove on it for 1 1/2 years and it was still going strong when I took it to the dealership. The dealership can not tell you that they will fix it once it goes completely out...that could be tomarrow, that could be a year from now. Consider yourself lucky if you find a dealership that even knows what CW is. I printed up over 300 pages to prove to them what it was and what causes it-just incase they tried to deny me. They replaced my engine with a short block and about 3 months later I was redoing the engine myself. 2 months ago I decided I'd had enough of the 7 bolt CWing POS and put a 6 bolt in it and was done with it. Good Luck.

Same thing here. After 3 7 bolts I gave up and went 6 bolt. Cases like ours are really rare though. Most poeple think they got crankwalk when they really just ran out of gas or something.

Same thing here. After 3 7 bolts I gave up and went 6 bolt. Cases like ours are really rare though. Most poeple think they got crankwalk when they really just ran out of gas or something.
If you want to here rare...check this out...My 98 GST had CW, my 92 1.8 Eclipse had CW (rare) and my 91 Talon TSI AUTOMATIC-yes you heard right, had CW...I guess I just attract CW in cars :naughty:

If you want to here rare...check this out...My 98 GST had CW, my 92 1.8 Eclipse had CW (rare) and my 91 Talon TSI AUTOMATIC-yes you heard right, had CW...I guess I just attract CW in cars :naughty:
cw loves you. :icon16:

Well guys I’ve being having many problems with my car here’s a couple of them. 1. Loud ticking (knocking) from the backside of the timing belt cover. 2. Rough idle it would go up and down and the car would shake "vibrate" this I already fixed it was the spark plugs that I put on. I put in the BPR6ES instead of the stock BPR6EKN, but I went and bought the stock ones and the car idles fine now. 3. Car died out during the rain here in California couple of days ago. I took the battery out and took it to AutoZone to get it tested and it charged up fine until they put a load on it and it would drop to 8.6 so I put in a new battery and car start up fine. 4. The stupid "service engine soon" light turn on so I need to get that diagnosed to see what it is. 5. Poor transmission shifting (auto) 6.when slowing down and accelerating the engine kind of jumps I think it might be a broken engine mount. 6. Squeaking belt only when car is cold and its louder if I turn the steering wheel but the noise goes away when the car is warmed up. Besides all this my car is still beautiful and fun to drive but with all of this I’m really disappointed with it especially with the stupid leaking roof.
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cw loves you. :icon16:


Just like a fat kid loves cake :naughty:

Symptoms of CW-since you're so worried about it:
-Clicking or ticking coming from the lower timing belt area.
-RPMs drop when pushing the clutch in
-Poor clutch engagement/disengagement results in some gear exhanges grinding, or being blocked out.
-Car won't start, and you've ruled out all other causes, this is probably your Crank angle sensor has been sheared off.
-You keep throwing belts because your crank pulley gets pushed out of alignment when you push the clutch in.
-Clutch pedal sticks down during hard left hand turns.

You might want to check your crankshaft endplay. The normal specs are (0.0020 to 0.0071) inches or (0.05 - 0.18) mm. The limit is: 0.0098 inches or 0.25 mm. That will let you know whether or not you are a CW victum. Check it and put your mind at ease.(or flip out and start crying-if that's the case) :grinno:

My philosophy: drive the car. If you hear ticking, your clutch pedal sticks, or some other signs start to show up, try and fix them assuming they are other problems (i.e. lifter tick/master cylinder/etc.)

If it turns out your car is walking, who cares. Yea, it sucks, but just drive it until it doesn't drive anymore. When this happens, put a 6bolt in it. Problem solved, and you'll almost undoubtedly never have to deal w/ it again.

This was my biggest fear about buying a turbo DSM...but now that I've bought one, I have no doubts I made the right choice. This car is worth putting a new engine in, if it comes to that ;).

how do make the engine "anti" crank walk? can you replace the crank with a performance crank or something??

Replace the bottom end of the engine--crank and all. That's why knowing you have CW early is pointless, except for having the time to look for parts.