Filter for Automatic Transmission Fluid

I just got a "Hastings" brand ATF filter for our Blazers. I'm getting ready to do my first flush and refill of ATF and need some advice.

The Hastings filter box says:
"With the high-performance ULTRACORK Gasket"
"Gasket adhesive is not necessary or recommended!"
"Small bolt holes keep bolts in place for positioning!"
"Ultracork seals the typical imperfections and irregularities found in the sealing surfaces of most service applications."

I opened the box and found a belt shaped item made with a corky rubbery material - I guess that is the gasket.

I was reading the Haynes manual and they recommend using RTV sealant on the gasket, but this box acts like it is advisable NOT to use any kind of sealant. Does this make sense?

Thanks,
-- recurve

Yep - but before you go crazy with this job - return the part. Return it like you had to do it yesterday. Take yourself to a GM dealership. Buy the same filter there - these aftermarket knock-offs are *garbage*. A tranny pan filter is one of the *few* things I insist on buying at the dealership. Trust me on this one...

I almost destroyed the auto tranny in my '95 Dodge Ram 1500 by going aftermarket. It is worth the dough to get the proper fitting unit from the parts desk behind the showroom.

Dont get that cork peice of shit either, they are just that shit, get the Rubber gasket! I used to use cork and blew them often started using rubber and now it hasn't happened since!

I just got a "Hastings" brand ATF filter for our Blazers. I'm getting ready to do my first flush and refill of ATF and need some advice.

The Hastings filter box says:
"With the high-performance ULTRACORK Gasket"
"Gasket adhesive is not necessary or recommended!"
"Small bolt holes keep bolts in place for positioning!"
"Ultracork seals the typical imperfections and irregularities found in the sealing surfaces of most service applications."

I opened the box and found a belt shaped item made with a corky rubbery material - I guess that is the gasket.

I was reading the Haynes manual and they recommend using RTV sealant on the gasket, but this box acts like it is advisable NOT to use any kind of sealant. Does this make sense?

Thanks,
-- recurve
Never use Sealant on the gasket, and dont get the cork, use a rubber gasket, They are better IN MY OPPINION!

I went to some oil change place to have my tranny fluid changed, and they just pumped out the old stuff through the radiator cooler and didn't open up or change anything! I'm super pissed- It was fast but I'm sure the dirty factory filter isn't helping me out now.

Hey chcknugget, sorry to hear about that. I've read that this happens quite often and when it does, sometimes the transmission fails quickly because lots of gunk gets released which the filter can't handle anymore (it's already used up). Also, most places that drop the pan and change the filter only let out half of the ATF - few places do a complete flush and refill. ATF is expensive, that's probably the biggest reason - and nobody explains to the customer that they are getting a half flush.

Chcknugget, I read your other post about them putting the wrong lube in your transfer case and now your 4WD doesn't work anymore. That sucks. It's hard to soar with the eagles when you're surrounded by turkeys. People were doing lousy jobs for me too which is why I'm starting to learn how to do maintenance items myself.

Hey wolfox and trail blazin, thanks for the input. I don't want to go to all this trouble and do more harm than good. I can return my Hastings tranny filter (I think, might have to pay shipping but so what). I certainly understand that many aftermarket supplies are inferior to what you can get at the dealer, but aren't others superior? For example, I've read about how awful Fram oil filters are, but AC Delco and other companies make oil filters just as good as, or better than, what the dealer offers.

I have found very little info about tranny filters on the Internet. My impression was that Hastings is a big name and a good filter company, but I don't see a lot of comments about them (a few positive, no negative, but just not many at all). I mean, AMSOIL is promoting and selling the Hastings line of filters, so I figure they must believe in the product.

I have found one post (just one!) in our automotive forums here where a guy used the Hastings tranny filter in his 2001 Dodge and says it works great… But how does he know? these things are hard to quantify. Here is the link to that thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t195518.html

I found the following bulleting at filtercouncil.org:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/98-3.pdf

This same bulletin can be found on the Baldwin and Hastings filter web sites. In a nutshell, it says there are seven types of "gaskets" for sealing the tranny pan. The type used depends on the design of the tranny pan like whether or not it has a lip around the edge, etc. The bulletin said that pure cork filters are obsolete. They have been replaced with either a cork/rubber hybrid or pure neoprene rubber. Several of these "gaskets" do not require any sealant and if you use sealant, it could cause them to leak (according to this bulletin).

Upon further inspection, my Hastings filter says it has the "ultracork" gasket. I realize now that this is a brand name gasket not made by Hastings. It is made by a company named "Amorim" here is the link to their Web page:
http://www.amorimperformancesolutions.com/ultracork.html

Here is a link to a Hastings bulletin about why all their filters now come with "ultracork" gaskets in the box:
http://www.amorimperformancesolutions.com/ultracork.html

Ultimately, I stumbled upon a genuine GM service bulletin IB03-008 which says that they will start using ultracork for tranny gaskets. This "new material" will replace the black fiber material they used to use. Here is the link: (note you'll need to scroll halfway down the page or search for "new gasket" on that page)
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/images/issues/feb03/TLFeb03e.html

You guys really freaked me out! But upon further inspection, I think I'll use this Hastings tranny filter. If I goof up our rides then I'll be man enough to come back and let everyone know and you may rightly say "I told you so."

I totally understand your point, and I won't do the ATF flush and refill for another week probably. Basically don't go cheap, better to use the genuine GM part. But you know, I'm starting to believe that genuine parts provide only "adequate" performance. And for all I know, Hastings could be the OEM for the genuine GM part. I saw another thread where a guy said his genuine Toyata filter looked *exactly* like his Hastings replacement. Here is the link:
http://www.birfield.com/archives/html/80scool/2002-09/msg00803.html

Peace everyone and thanks for being my sounding board,
-- recurve

I have just had rotten luck with these cork filters leaking around the neck and surfaces that they are to be sealed against. If your filter leaks,it does nothing at all. Also, I am not of the mind to use sealant in the transmission itself. There are only two things that go into a tranny - fluid and gears. Any insignificant material "floating" about is a headache waiting to happen.

I have had excellent results with rubber faced seals. They stay in place, in one piece, and damn near look as new the day they come out as they went in. I cannot say that for cork in the high temp/pressure environment of an automatic transmission. The only place silicone has anywhere near the tranny is on the pan. I use a very thin 3/8" bead of fuel/solvent proof silicone to seat the gasket into. Anything I touch in the tranny gets a wipe down with a *clean*, lint free cloth before I reassemble. (NO lint, fragments of material like gasket material, fingerprints, dust or dirt allowed!) I then fill it back up and check for leaks with the engine running - then take it on a short drive, then check fluids. I top off as needed, then take it for a 15 mile hop down the highway. If she still holds fluids within spec. and shows no leaks - the job is done. ;)

Thanks wolfox.

What constitutes a "lint-free cloth" (Haynes mentions this too). Is this a special rag you purchase and use once, then discard? I guess paper towels are out of the question. When I think lint-free, I think of something to clean the lens of an SLR camera. That's not what we are talking about here right? :-)

Also, what kind of solvent do you use to clean the tranny pan before putting it back?

As always, thanks,
-- recurve

One more thing dont use Fram they are shit too!spend a little more! just ask Blazer Lt, the lint free can be used more than once, you mainly use them to clean cars and it helps prevent eitching on glass!
I choose not to use any sealant because you have to scrape the old off when your changing it again, leaving the risk you might use to much pressure, and scratch the serface, and every one knows it is easy to scratch alum.

For a flushing solvent, I just use brake cleaner. It will cut through the sludge and gunk and leave no luricants or anything behind. Do not forget to clean the magnet in there if you find it - it will be under a pile of fuzz. ;) (Or at least, there was one in the pan, retained by a clip when I did my Dodge. Will be doing my Chevy here before winter sets in)

Set the pan aside to drip dry someleace safe, face down - do not want to collect lint or anything else that is airborne in your garage's air. Brake solvent luckily air dries very quickly!

Now as for lint free cloths, goto Autozone and pick up a roll of "Finishing cloth". They are used for polishing vehicle's exterior painted surfaces, as TrailBlazin96 noted. Unwrap them from the adhesive label they come bundled in, they are like $2.50 for a pack of 5. Shake them out good, and wipe down stuff you got fingerprints or fragments of old gasket/sealant sticking around after your clean up from removal of the old stuff.

When you are done, you may wash them, but drip-dry them only! Oils left in the fabric may ignite in the dryer and cause you some trouble. You may re-use them if you wish, but I always bought a fresh pack of them to wipedown tranny surfaces. The $2.50 is worth it, IMO.

Thanks Trail Blazin, glad to hear you don't have to use sealant for those gaskets that say it isn't required. I wasn't even thinking about the possibility of damaging the aluminum when scraping off the old material from the pan, but that's a good point!

Hey wolfox, that fuzz sounds scary - must be small metal shavings from gears getting worn. I'll look to see if the Blazer pan has a magnet, that is a clever design on the Dodge - trying to keep those shavings away from causing more damage.

Thanks for the clarification about the lint-free cloth. I agree, at that price it makes sense to get a fresh one working on drive-train parts. LOL - I like your choice of words about rags catching fire in the dryer :-)

Where else can I use the brake cleaner? Would it be safe to use that to clean the cover of the rear diffy?

Thanks,
-- recurve

Try explosion - mixing air, oil and high temps leads to spontaneous conbustion. Think of a grain silo fire and you get the idea... I am the master of understatement. ;)

You may use brake solvent to flush the parts and covers in your diffy. However, I suggest letting them air dry for an hour, at least if you do this. Solvent and oil do not mix well, leading to problems later. If a source of forced air is available, use it to blow out any wells of solvent you may have left over in the spiders and clutch packs. If just used on the cover plate, set it aside to air dry after a shake - it will be ready to use in seconds.