347 stroker?

my engine has 150,000 miles on it and im looking at a rebuild sometime this winter. I was just wondering about getting a 347 stroker kit. They are on ebay going for $1500, thats a lot cheaper than forced induction. I was just wondering if this is a good idea for a daily driver car. How does this affect streetability. 400hp sounds bitchin to me :)

With just a 347 lower end, theres no way you'll see 400 hp unless you upgrade evrything else too. I also would not buy a rotating assembly off e-bay, just my .02. Depending on what combo you put together, 347's are fine for the street, I have one. What car do you have?

There are some companies on Ebay that sell quality stroker kits using quality parts.

Remember besides the $1500 there is the cost of boring the block .30 over at the least. But many time the block also needs to be notched along the oil pan rails and sometimes other places depending on parts. Then if your not gonna assemble it yourself there is more money involved.

Also like said aboved a 347 shortblock with stock heads, intake, cam, is kind of like shooting yourself in the foot.

The kit includes:
NEW Eagle 3.400" Forged Stroker Kit, PN: 14003

First quality kit, no blems, std/std, all new.

Eagle 3.4" 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft, Internal balance

Eagle 5.400" 4340 Forged H-beam Rods w/ ARP bolts

JE SRP Series Flat Top +.030 Pistons, please inquire for different overbores, TW heads or dished pistons, we carry them all!

Clevite or Federal Mogul rod/main bearings

File fit plasma moly rings



I have a 1995 mustang 5.0 5 speed

If Id have to get intake cam and heads, how much would that cost?

sorry im so ignorant lol

plasma moly rings are a little overkill. they're designed for large amounts of nitrous or boost. in other words, huge amounts of compression. in excess of a 300 horse shot of nitrous or big boost. a step up from stock should do you good. chrome-moly rings i believe.

if i were you i'd find a local engine parts dealer and see if he'll give you jobber prices on engine parts. i'd go with either Eagle or Scat for the crank and rods, they make the best street parts. i was lucky enough to get hooked up by a local crankshaft guy and got a new set of rods for $350. $150 more would get a crank.

make sure the rods are set up for full-floating pins. no performance can be gained from that but you can assemble the entire engine at home with that setup.

also make sure the main and rod bearing sizes are consistent between the block, crank, and rods. sometimes in order to gain clearance for stroker applications, chevy dimensions are used. i had to exchange a set of rods because they had the ford bearing size while my crank has the chevy bearing size.