Synthetic oil the best for your vehicle or what?

I have a 1993 S10 Blazer with 101,000 miles on it. Should I switch to synthetic oil? I just don't want to make the change unless I really should. Because once you start you can't change back. Is this correct? Thanks for any replies!!!!

Its really never too early to switch, so do it. You can change back and forth. As you switch from one oil to another you may notice a small change in consumption, but nothing drastic. Go with a synthetic or a synthetic blend. Stay with ones that have been on the market place for years. Synthetic offers many more benefits over a conventional especially if you live where the climate varies. I could go on and on---just my opinion( I am a lab mgr. for an oil company in Mil., WI)

Its really never too early to switch, so do it. You can change back and forth. As you switch from one oil to another you may notice a small change in consumption, but nothing drastic. Go with a synthetic or a synthetic blend. Stay with ones that have been on the market place for years. Synthetic offers many more benefits over a conventional especially if you live where the climate varies. I could go on and on---just my opinion( I am a lab mgr. for an oil company in Mil., WI)


Thanks for the info! I live just north of you in Manitowoc.

I recently read the "Motor Oil Bible" which is a free PDF download from:
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

This is a big multi-page document with lots of info. An oversimplification would be to say the author recommended AMSOIL, NEO, and Redline.

After reading it, I purchased AMSOIL 5W-30 oil with 25,000 mile drain intervals. I switched over my '95 Blazer with 158,000 miles on it two weeks ago. No leaking so far that I can tell. Seems a little quieter and little smoother but that could just be wishful thinking. My wife did a little math and says we got a 4% increase in gas mileage. I've ordered more oil and will switch over our '97 Blazer to synthetic soon.

Lou is right, from what I've read you could try synthetic and switch back if you don't like it. In the early 1970's there was interactions but now things are fine (or so I've read).

Be sure to do an engine flush before you switch. You purchase a special flush liquid to put in your current engine oil and run your engine for 20 minutes or as directed. Some of these flush kits have scary ingredients, the AMSOIL one seemed safer and is what I used in our '95. You will also want to purchase a cheap oil filter to do the engine flush to be sure it filters out any gunk that comes through. Then get a good filter to compliment your synthetic oil when you do the switch. The AMSOIL brand oil filter is rated to be changed every 12,500 miles or 6 months.

Take care,
-- recurve

You're right about some of the flushing kits having "scary" ingredients. You can say the exact same thing about some of the after market engine oil additives that are on the market that supposedly can do remarkable things to your engine. As long as you aren't burning oil or leaking like a seive---lol--synthetic engine oils are the way o go.

i just put in that castrol gtx start up in mine 91 w 160 thousand miles 2 minutes later ur good to go runs like a stallion it feels and drives like it was running for 15 minutes it was well worth the 3 bucks a quart but then again i got 6 for 11 w the rebate

I recently read the "Motor Oil Bible" which is a free PDF download from:
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

This is a big multi-page document with lots of info. An oversimplification would be to say the author recommended AMSOIL, NEO, and Redline.

After reading it, I purchased AMSOIL 5W-30 oil with 25,000 mile drain intervals. I switched over my '95 Blazer with 158,000 miles on it two weeks ago. No leaking so far that I can tell. Seems a little quieter and little smoother but that could just be wishful thinking. My wife did a little math and says we got a 4% increase in gas mileage. I've ordered more oil and will switch over our '97 Blazer to synthetic soon.

Lou is right, from what I've read you could try synthetic and switch back if you don't like it. In the early 1970's there was interactions but now things are fine (or so I've read).

Be sure to do an engine flush before you switch. You purchase a special flush liquid to put in your current engine oil and run your engine for 20 minutes or as directed. Some of these flush kits have scary ingredients, the AMSOIL one seemed safer and is what I used in our '95. You will also want to purchase a cheap oil filter to do the engine flush to be sure it filters out any gunk that comes through. Then get a good filter to compliment your synthetic oil when you do the switch. The AMSOIL brand oil filter is rated to be changed every 12,500 miles or 6 months.

Take care,
-- recurve

What did you think of the Amsoil synthetic oil? Worth the money?

Have you changed it out yet? If so, how many miles did you get out of the oil before you changed it?

I'm thinking of using their 2000 series oil wit their new nanofiber oil filter. The filter has a 25k or 1 year drain interval.

Thanks,

I run Mobil 1 5w30, May switch to 0w30 when it gets real cold, but I will will never go back to conventional oil again. Mobil 1 has dramatically cleaned out my engine. Gas mileage is also up

Hi nflo555,

I recently changed out the oil in both our '95 and '97 Blazers after their first year of going all synthetic. So far we've been happy, no leaks, etc. I must say, the oil looked really dark and parts of it was rather thick. This can't be good. From what I've read though, just because oil is dark does not necessarily mean anything bad... but what about the thick stuff... I think that might be what is called "sludge." We used the Oil filter that AMSOIL recommended to be changed every six months. We did follow their directions to the letter. This nanofiber one you are talking about is news to me, must be something new. Maybe it is smarter to do a full drain and refill after 6 months of use on an old engine rather than waiting a full year.

Recurve,

How many miles do you have your blazer?

Are you the original owner?

Have you always changed the oil every 3000 prior to using synthetics?

thanks,
NF

The '95 has 165k miles. The '97 only has 60k miles. The '95 was purchased 2nd hand, the '97 was 3rd hand. I never met the original owners, so I have no idea how they took care of these trucks.

Was just reading this month's modified mag, and I'm definitely going to a synthetic with my next oil change. It was preaching the values of royal purple, so I'm wondering if anyone here uses the stuff? Pretty much all the Trans Am lovers I know use royal purple, lol.

What did you think of the Amsoil synthetic oil? Worth the money?

Have you changed it out yet? If so, how many miles did you get out of the oil before you changed it?

I'm thinking of using their 2000 series oil wit their new nanofiber oil filter. The filter has a 25k or 1 year drain interval.

Thanks,


I would say it's worth the money. I switched my 98 Blazer over at 60,000 and at 132,000 I still have no issues. I use the 5-30 2000 series(it gets VERY cold here) and I love it. I drain oil at 25,000 and filters at 12,000. I have also switched my air and fuel filters over and changed my motorcycle, tractor, chainsaw and my wife's Jetta over, all smoke less, burn less fuel and run cooler. The only thing that would keep me from switching to it would be if I had an existing oil leak, but so far so good. But I have a feeling I'm preaching to the choir here anyway. :)

Was just reading this month's modified mag, and I'm definitely going to a synthetic with my next oil change. It was preaching the values of royal purple, so I'm wondering if anyone here uses the stuff? Pretty much all the Trans Am lovers I know use royal purple, lol.

Sure Royal Purple is great stuff, but I haven't been convinced that it's worth the top-dollar price that you pay for it. When I changed my diff fluid I used royal-purple just because you really do get what pay for with this kind of thing. I really couldn't see spending the money on the oil though because I mean comeon it's a little pricey to be changing it all the time. I use Mobil 1, and am considering switching to Casterol StartUp. Peace-

Sure Royal Purple is great stuff, but I haven't been convinced that it's worth the top-dollar price that you pay for it. When I changed my diff fluid I used royal-purple just because you really do get what pay for with this kind of thing. I really couldn't see spending the money on the oil though because I mean comeon it's a little pricey to be changing it all the time. I use Mobil 1, and am considering switching to Casterol StartUp. Peace-
Royal Purple is not a true synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is the best bang for your buck. I really like the 15K oil change one even thought I change it like every 6K.

Ok folks, looks like we have some smart people considering the changeover.

#1 Rule: If you are only going to have synthetic in for under 5000miles, stick to conventioanl and don't waste you money on synthetic, it is made for long change intervals.

#2: Do you research on what synthetics are REAL, some are just hydro-cracked conventioanl oils.

Completely Real Synthetics are:

Amsoil
Redline
Mobil1 Synthetic
Esso XD-3 PAO Synthetic

All the rest are altered conventional oils including Royal Purple.

The magazine article I was reading suggested that the most important part of an oil, and particularly synthetics, are in the additives themselves. It read that the base has very little to do with the quality/benfits of the oil.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe everything I read; as far as I can tell the article was written by the marketing people for Royal Purple. What's more, the stuff is way too expensive for me (no $60 oil changes thanks!) It looks like I'm going to have to read this oil bible...

The magazine article I was reading suggested that the most important part of an oil, and particularly synthetics, are in the additives themselves. It read that the base has very little to do with the quality/benfits of the oil.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe everything I read; as far as I can tell the article was written by the marketing people for Royal Purple. What's more, the stuff is way too expensive for me (no $60 oil changes thanks!)

It looks like I'm going to have to read this oil bible...
Royal Purple in my area (Mass) is at most $5.99 a quart, sometimes I have paid $3.99. I have only used it twice and was not impressed. Plus the oil is purple, so I could not really tell what the true color of my oil was. Mobil1 is the only oil that has truly impressed me. Quiets and calms the engine, cleans like you wouldn't believe and the cold weather protection and start up is great. I now have 125K on my baby and it runs like a top! I am thinking 200K easy! Knock on wood! ;) So I pay for Mobil1 just under $20 at Wal-Mart for the 5 quart jug and I pay about $4 for a WIX filter. Right there is my $24 full synthetic oil change. Oh and was Castrol mentioned as a full synthetic if it says made in Germany on the back? I remember reading that somewhere.

Good to know... it gets to -40°C here some times.

I guess I was off on the Royal Purple's price. My buddy was telling me 9+ per quart last night.

I've ran Pennzoil full synthetic and a K&N (powersport, not performance gold) oil filter for about 50,000 with no problems.

The magazine article I was reading suggested that the most important part of an oil, and particularly synthetics, are in the additives themselves. It read that the base has very little to do with the quality/benfits of the oil.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe everything I read; as far as I can tell the article was written by the marketing people for Royal Purple. What's more, the stuff is way too expensive for me (no $60 oil changes thanks!) It looks like I'm going to have to read this oil bible...

No, the basestock is more important than any other additive you put in the oil.

Without a good foundation, the additives mean nothing.

Royal Purple in my area (Mass) is at most $5.99 a quart, sometimes I have paid $3.99. I have only used it twice and was not impressed. Plus the oil is purple, so I could not really tell what the true color of my oil was. Mobil1 is the only oil that has truly impressed me. Quiets and calms the engine, cleans like you wouldn't believe and the cold weather protection and start up is great. I now have 125K on my baby and it runs like a top! I am thinking 200K easy! Knock on wood! ;) So I pay for Mobil1 just under $20 at Wal-Mart for the 5 quart jug and I pay about $4 for a WIX filter. Right there is my $24 full synthetic oil change. Oh and was Castrol mentioned as a full synthetic if it says made in Germany on the back? I remember reading that somewhere.

Good for you, and no, even the Castrol 0w30 made in Germany is now only a hydrocracked conventional.

Stick to Mobil1.

Good for you, and no, even the Castrol 0w30 made in Germany is now only a hydrocracked conventional.

Stick to Mobil1.
Ah that I did not know, thought it was still the full synthetic. I will stick to Mobil1

Without a good foundation, the additives mean nothing.

Fair enough... the additives seem equally as important though. The base might comprise the greatest part of the oil, but the additives seem to be all the good stuff like detergents, friction modifiers, and anti-wear agents.

I hate to quote this stupid article again, but they claim that their additive "synerlec" is what gives their oil a film strength 4 fold that of "conventional synthetic and mineral-based oils" (lowering friction and heat, increasing horsepower). What's more, they claim that it reduces surface imperfections on metal surfaces reducing friction even further.

It sounds like Mobil 1 is a favorite among the canuck's on this board so I'll likely go that way. Anybody been unhappy with it yet?

Fair enough... the additives seem equally as important though. The base might comprise the greatest part of the oil, but the additives seem to be all the good stuff like detergents, friction modifiers, and anti-wear agents.

I hate to quote this stupid article again, but they claim that their additive "synerlec" is what gives their oil a film strength 4 fold that of "conventional synthetic and mineral-based oils" (lowering friction and heat, increasing horsepower). What's more, they claim that it reduces surface imperfections on metal surfaces reducing friction even further.

It sounds like Mobil 1 is a favorite among the canuck's on this board so I'll likely go that way. Anybody been unhappy with it yet?

I'm a canuck and I will let you in on a little secret in Canada.

Go to your local Esso distribution center and buy some Esso XD-3 0w30 Synthetic. It is PURE TRUE synthetic and it is only CDN$4 per liter.

Best deal in North america. A synthetic oil change costs me $21 bucks. ;)

If I am not mistaken BlazerLT Esso is Mobil1. Esso stations are owned in Canada by Exxon-Mobil. I think it is just the canadian version of Mobil1. Please correct me if I am wrong. Oh and I just found out that Exxon stations are putting MTBE in their gas. I will no longer fuel up there. Hopefully Mobil does not follow suit

If I am not mistaken BlazerLT Esso is Mobil1. Esso stations are owned in Canada by Exxon-Mobil. I think it is just the canadian version of Mobil1. Please correct me if I am wrong. Oh and I just found out that Exxon stations are putting MTBE in their gas. I will no longer fuel up there. Hopefully Mobil does not follow suit

Nope, they are completely different oils and completely different additive packs and makeup.

Nope, they are completely different oils and completely different additive packs and makeup.
No shit wow. But they are owned by the same company correct? Want to ship me some? Can you put it on E-bay??? ;)
:naughty:

No shit wow. But they are owned by the same company correct? Want to ship me some? Can you put it on E-bay??? ;)
:naughty:

Yea, same company, but diffeent divisions make the oil. The Mobil1 is a commercial grade whereas the XD3 0w30 synthetic is industrial strength with an EXTREMELY strong additive pack and a TBN of 12.2 which is as high as you can get in any oil.

All that for US$3.50 per quart is a deal and a half.

Yea, same company, but diffeent divisions make the oil. The Mobil1 is a commercial grade whereas the XD3 0w30 synthetic is industrial strength with an EXTREMELY strong additive pack and a TBN of 12.2 which is as high as you can get in any oil.

All that for US$3.50 per quart is a deal and a half.

So hook a brother from another mother up!
:lol2:

So hook a brother from another mother up!
:lol2:

The only problem is that after shipping you will lose the savings. :(

The only problem is that after shipping you will lose the savings. :(
Yea I kind of figured that. So after having this mobil1 oil in for 4 months and about 7K or 8K I have only eaten about half a quart of oil. Not bad.

Yea I kind of figured that. So after having this mobil1 oil in for 4 months and about 7K or 8K I have only eaten about half a quart of oil. Not bad.

Wow, 8k? Niiiiiice!

You might want to spin on another oil filter and keep on driving. :D

Royal Purple is not a true synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is the best bang for your buck. I really like the 15K oil change one even thought I change it like every 6K.

I am an AMSOIL dealer, just wondering how you know Royal Purple isn't real synthetic oil. Funny how their website has no technical data sheets available. I know for a fact that as of a few years ago Castrol Synthec wasn't a real synthetic, but a re-engineered petroleum based oil. The reason they can call it "synthetic" is because they lobbied the government to create a loophole whereby it can be classified as a synthetic. I went to a BMW dealer, asked them who makes their synthetic oil and they told me it was Castrol. Once again, this was a few years ago. AMSOIL also has a an oil that lasts 35,000 miles or 1 year, called "2000 Series". My website, www.firstsynthetics.com, has tests done by the ASTM, one of the oldest standards organizations in the world, comparing AMSOIL with most of the major brands, including Mobil 1 Syntec, Redline, etc. and it outperforms them all. The test that impressed me the most when I first found out about AMSOIL, and still does, is the four-ball wear test. A steel rod is spun with 4 ball bearings being force against the rod at a certain pressure for a certain amount of time while it is lubricated with the oil being tested. The smalller the wear scar, the better the protection. AMSOIL also scores lower in volatility, the percentage of oil that burns off at a certain temperature, and the extremely low temperature pumpability and clinging ability of AMSOIL helps prevent damage at startup. And AMSOIL guarantees all of their products against causing engine damage.

I am an AMSOIL dealer, just wondering how you know Royal Purple isn't real synthetic oil. Funny how their website has no technical data sheets available. I know for a fact that as of a few years ago Castrol Synthec wasn't a real synthetic, but a re-engineered petroleum based oil. The reason they can call it "synthetic" is because they lobbied the government to create a loophole whereby it can be classified as a synthetic. I went to a BMW dealer, asked them who makes their synthetic oil and they told me it was Castrol. Once again, this was a few years ago. AMSOIL also has a an oil that lasts 35,000 miles or 1 year, called "2000 Series". My website, www.firstsynthetics.com, has tests done by the ASTM, one of the oldest standards organizations in the world, comparing AMSOIL with most of the major brands, including Mobil 1 Syntec, Redline, etc. and it outperforms them all. The test that impressed me the most when I first found out about AMSOIL, and still does, is the four-ball wear test. A steel rod is spun with 4 ball bearings being force against the rod at a certain pressure for a certain amount of time while it is lubricated with the oil being tested. The smalller the wear scar, the better the protection. AMSOIL also scores lower in volatility, the percentage of oil that burns off at a certain temperature, and the extremely low temperature pumpability and clinging ability of AMSOIL helps prevent damage at startup. And AMSOIL guarantees all of their products against causing engine damage.

Royal purple is not a true synthetic and we have discussed it on http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi many times. The basestock is more a mixture of group 3, 4 and 5 and not the full group 5 PAO basestock I take as a real synthetic foundation. I know there are synthetic ester basestocks and I that is what the German Castrol was using before they changed formulations.

It is true what you are saying about the synthetic loophole and I already pointed out who was a REAL TRUE synthetic and who was not earlier in this thread.

The thing about Amsoil is that it is actually too expensive for what you offer when compared to other synthetics on the market. Granted you make a good product and offer a great warranty, but the premium price of $2-$3 per bottle is just not worth it. Plus through testing I didn't like the Amsoil's tendency to thicken as you piled the miles onto it.

Unfortuneately, I just can't dismiss the fact that your post was more an advertisement for you product than anything really useful.

Royal purple is not a true synthetic and we have discussed it on http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi many times. The basestock is more a mixture of group 3, 4 and 5 and not the full group 5 PAO basestock I take as a real synthetic foundation. I know there are synthetic ester basestocks and I that is what the German Castrol was using before they changed formulations.

It is true what you are saying about the synthetic loophole and I already pointed out who was a REAL TRUE synthetic and who was not earlier in this thread.

The thing about Amsoil is that it is actually too expensive for what you offer when compared to other synthetics on the market. Granted you make a good product and offer a great warranty, but the premium price of $2-$3 per bottle is just not worth it. Plus through testing I didn't like the Amsoil's tendency to thicken as you piled the miles onto it.

Unfortuneately, I just can't dismiss the fact that your post was more an advertisement for you product than anything really useful.

First of all, I have never been to or heard of the "oildrop", so how would I know what you have discussed? The test procedures were posted as general motor oil information for Automotive Forums and it is your personal opinion this information isn't useful. And if I hadn't mentioned I was a dealer, would you still think this information was unuseful?

PAO's are from group IV basestocks. Group V basestocks include esters and other specialty synthetics. Groups I and II are petroleum based oils, the same with group III only these having to be refined to a viscosity index of over 120. Castrol was using a polyalphaolephin before they secretly switched in late' 98 or early '99.

And for people who pay to have their oil changed, the cost of using Amsoil, even if installed by a professional mechanic, is comparable to going to a quick lube. Not to mention the money you save from increased fuel mileage because of decreased friction.

One of the myths about synthetic motor oil is that it causes leaks. This is because back in the '70's, certain manufacturers use seals that weren't compatible with synthetics. The manufacturer(s) quickly rectified this problem and today all seals are compatible.

The Motor Oil Bible was written by my Amsoil sponsor, Michael Kaufman, and he does not recommend any other oils other than Amsoil from whom I have gotten all this information.

Some of the questions in this thread and a lot of others could be answered at AMSOIL's FAQ at: http://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx.

Unfortuneately, I just can't dismiss the fact that your post was more an advertisement for you product than anything really useful.
Agreed, the internet is full of these guys. Anyone can be an Amsoil dealer, all it takes is about $50 and they give you a premade website. These guys give amsoil their $50, thinking that they're going to make money. What they don't realize is that there are thousands of people just like them, with their own websites, too. The chances of actually getting any visitors are slim to none. After a while of not getting any visitors, they desperately try to find ways of mitigating their loses, often resorting to spamming public forums.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3579558&postcount=7

First of all, I have never been to or heard of the "oildrop", so how would I know what you have discussed? The test procedures were posted as general motor oil information for Automotive Forums and it is your personal opinion this information isn't useful. And if I hadn't mentioned I was a dealer, would you still think this information was unuseful?

PAO's are from group IV basestocks. Group V basestocks include esters and other specialty synthetics. Groups I and II are petroleum based oils, the same with group III only these having to be refined to a viscosity index of over 120. Castrol was using a polyalphaolephin before they secretly switched in late' 98 or early '99.

And for people who pay to have their oil changed, the cost of using Amsoil, even if installed by a professional mechanic, is comparable to going to a quick lube. Not to mention the money you save from increased fuel mileage because of decreased friction.

One of the myths about synthetic motor oil is that it causes leaks. This is because back in the '70's, certain manufacturers use seals that weren't compatible with synthetics. The manufacturer(s) quickly rectified this problem and today all seals are compatible.

The Motor Oil Bible was written by my Amsoil sponsor, Michael Kaufman, and he does not recommend any other oils other than Amsoil from whom I have gotten all this information.

Some of the questions in this thread and a lot of others could be answered at AMSOIL's FAQ at: http://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx.

Before I say anything at all, I will say that I do like Amsoil and I respect their oil completely.

With that being said, the following will present itself.

1.) You are promoting your product here which is spam and spam is unauthorized advertisement.

2.) You are quoteing information from an Amsoil supporter as your only source of information. I too LOVE the Motor oil bible and have a copy here in my office, but I WILL NOT use it as the "end-all-be-all" source of information for when I talk about motor oils and synthetics.

3.) Amsoil is a PAO (polyalphaolephin) based oil based on my latest information on hand.

4.) No one is condoning the old myths about synthetic oil causing leaks.

5.) Amsoil is the most expensive oil going on the market today. You saying that it is the same price as going to Walmart to get your oil changed, you are lying.

Again, I will restate, I like Amsoil and I think you guys are the ones that have stopped all manufacturers from pushing their hydrocracked phony group III synthetic oil crap on us as the real thing and I respect that.

But you have to understand now that the consumer is a lot more educated and knows that with the TBN 12.2 Mobil1 is a lot cheaper, they can go the same distance that they can with your more expensive oil.

I understand you have a great product, but it is not worth the premium price anymore. It might have been worth it in the past, but now a lot of other companies are making essentially the same product with the same additive package for less money.

Before I say anything at all, I will say that I do like Amsoil and I respect their oil completely.

With that being said, the following will present itself.

1.) You are promoting your product here which is spam and spam is unauthorized advertisement.

2.) You are quoteing information from an Amsoil supporter as your only source of information. I too LOVE the Motor oil bible and have a copy here in my office, but I WILL NOT use it as the "end-all-be-all" source of information for when I talk about motor oils and synthetics.

3.) Amsoil is a PAO (polyalphaolephin) based oil based on my latest information on hand.

4.) No one is condoning the old myths about synthetic oil causing leaks.

5.) Amsoil is the most expensive oil going on the market today. You saying that it is the same price as going to Walmart to get your oil changed, you are lying.

Again, I will restate, I like Amsoil and I think you guys are the ones that have stopped all manufacturers from pushing their hydrocracked phony group III synthetic oil crap on us as the real thing and I respect that.

But you have to understand now that the consumer is a lot more educated and knows that with the TBN 12.2 Mobil1 is a lot cheaper, they can go the same distance that they can with your more expensive oil.

I understand you have a great product, but it is not worth the premium price anymore. It might have been worth it in the past, but now a lot of other companies are making essentially the same product with the same additive package for less money.

You have misquoted or misconstrued everything I said. If listing my website is spam and against the rules, then I am guilty of spam, and it will never happen again. But all because I am a dealer, doesn't mean I can't talk about the same thing everyone else is talking about on this thread. You and others in this thread have mentioned other oil brands, Mobil, Royal Purple, etc. and in this thread, the questions of what oil last longer, gives more protection, etc. has come up multiple times. I simply stated facts about tests of another brand of oil proven in a world respected independent laboratory and I listed where someone could find those facts. This was a contribution to the thread, not an advertisement. I don't make any money on individual sales. If I sold you 5 quarts of oil and 2 filters, I would make $12-$13, nothing I would bother wasting this much time on. The only way I'd spend this much time and energy was if I was trying make a commercial or retail account sale. So when the title of a thread is "Is synthetic oil better for your vehicle", of course I am entitled to back up my statements, therefore the reason for the link to my website.

Sure, Mobil 1 has a TBN of 12.2. But if you had even bothered to go to my website and looked at the test results, you would see that Amsoil outperforms Mobil in every test category, wear protection, volatility,etc. Amsoil's corporate website has even newer tests that confirm the same thing. Mobil also has test results available. So what makes you think these test results I mentioned aren't of any use to this forum. Mobil uses an independent lab just like Amsoil. And Mobil won't guarantee it's oil for more than 15,000 miles where Amsoil has oil that will last 35,000 miles. If you are looking for quality, what oil would you choose? You are paying less for an inferior product. You sound like you are recommending Mobil just because it is cheaper and not giving anyone in this forum any information so they can make an educated choice.

One thing I will admit is I should have addressed the info about synthetic myths to the person who mentioned it.

I never said Amsoil wasn't a PAO.

In regards to something you obviously misconstrued, you can drive 1 year or 25,000 miles on an Amsoil oil change you do yourself with the peace of mind that your engine is getting the best protection available for aprx. $77 per year delivered to your doorstep, or go 3 months on a "quick lube" change as I said in my previous post, where the majority of Americans go for oil changes, for the average minimum price I have seen at $29.95. which adds up to $120 per year for cheap oil and filters. Even at $20 per oil change($80), it is still cheaper to use Amsoil. If you didn't do it yourself and paid someone to do it once a year, how much would a mechanic charge for one oil change? $30? That would add up to $107 a year for Amsoil compared to $120 for a quick lube. So who are you calling a liar? You brought up price, not me.

How do know they are the same additive packages? And even if they are, what would matter the most to me is who performed better in the lab tests, not who is selling there oil cheaper.

You have misquoted or misconstrued everything I said. If listing my website is spam and against the rules, then I am guilty of spam, and it will never happen again. But all because I am a dealer, doesn't mean I can't talk about the same thing everyone else is talking about on this thread. You and others in this thread have mentioned other oil brands, Mobil, Royal Purple, etc. and in this thread, the questions of what oil last longer, gives more protection, etc. has come up multiple times. I simply stated facts about tests of another brand of oil proven in a world respected independent laboratory and I listed where someone could find those facts. This was a contribution to the thread, not an advertisement. I don't make any money on individual sales. If I sold you 5 quarts of oil and 2 filters, I would make $12-$13, nothing I would bother wasting this much time on. The only way I'd spend this much time and energy was if I was trying make a commercial or retail account sale. So when the title of a thread is "Is synthetic oil better for your vehicle", of course I am entitled to back up my statements, therefore the reason for the link to my website.

Yes, and also a good way to advertise you product to the masses as well. Listen, this is a conversation between members and not oil vendors. We can do some research and we don't need you coming into this thread and hijacking it with your biased point of view.

We know about Amsoil, but we don't need it shoved down our throats and as you see in this thread, my point of view is shared by others as well.

Sure, Mobil 1 has a TBN of 12.2. But if you had even bothered to go to my website and looked at the test results, you would see that Amsoil outperforms Mobil in every test category, wear protection, volatility,etc. Amsoil's corporate website has even newer tests that confirm the same thing. Mobil also has test results available. So what makes you think these test results I mentioned aren't of any use to this forum. Mobil uses an independent lab just like Amsoil. And Mobil won't guarantee it's oil for more than 15,000 miles where Amsoil has oil that will last 35,000 miles. If you are looking for quality, what oil would you choose? You are paying less for an inferior product. You sound like you are recommending Mobil just because it is cheaper and not giving anyone in this forum any information so they can make an educated choice.

It will go 35k? I dont hink so.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html

It went 14k here and thickened up to a 15w40. That is the one thing about Amsoil, it tends to thicken too much over time.

See, you are shoving your product down other people's throats again here. I am not telling people to not purchase Amsoil, I am telling people they can save some money and get the same protection and saying that your oil will go to 35k over the Mobil1 going 15k is not a factor seeing most if not all people will put that mileage in a year and most people won't even keep synthetic in their engines that long as well.

Most amsoil users I know never go that long. The most you will see most consumers going is 10,ooo miles max on one oil change. The 35,000miles only really relates to truckers and continental highway haulers that put an incredible amount of highway miles on their engines.

One thing I will admit is I should have addressed the info about synthetic myths to the person who mentioned it.

If you are talking about the leaks, we do see some leaks when people change over from time to time. This is due to the oil cleaning the sludge plugging any holes in the seals causing a leak that in most cases will reswell with the new synthetic load and the leak will gradually go away. Leaks do happen and it is not a myth entirely.

I never said Amsoil wasn't a PAO.

I never said you didn't say it was. ;)

In regards to something you obviously misconstrued, you can drive 1 year or 25,000 miles on an Amsoil oil change you do yourself with the peace of mind that your engine is getting the best protection available for aprx. $77 per year delivered to your doorstep, or go 3 months on a "quick lube" change as I said in my previous post, where the majority of Americans go for oil changes, for the average minimum price I have seen at $29.95. which adds up to $120 per year for cheap oil and filters. Even at $20 per oil change($80), it is still cheaper to use Amsoil. If you didn't do it yourself and paid someone to do it once a year, how much would a mechanic charge for one oil change? $30? That would add up to $107 a year for Amsoil compared to $120 for a quick lube. So who are you calling a liar? You brought up price, not me.

As said earlier, most people will not go to those long intervals with their engines. 10k max is all that is seen in most cases. I know it will go longer, but you need to also state that the filter has to be changed frequently as well. So add in 4 filter changes at $3 a piece and you will add another $12 to the maintanence cost.

Again, I WILL RE-STATE, I have no problem with Amsoil. But when it costs $3 more per quart for me at the local store for an oil I will be changing at 10,000 miles anyways, Mobil1 standard is the way I would go. I am not talking about the 15k guaranteed extended protection, I am talking about the standard cheaper Mobil1 synthetic.

How do know they are the same additive packages? And even if they are, what would matter the most to me is who performed better in the lab tests, not who is selling there oil cheaper.

Are you talking about these lab tests? The ones that are over 2 1/2 years old? Oil formulations are constantly changing and I know for a fact your has changed lately too.

It matters greatly when you have two oils with the same TBN, the same basic additive package, but you charge more for yours. Plus I like the fact that Mobil1 has Molybdenum in it which is an excellent anti-wear additive.

When it comes down dollar to dollar for the user doing a 10k oil change, Mobil1 is the better deal. No need to pay more.

Again, I like you product, but your wear tests realistically don't change anything. They are outdated and compare old oils from over 2 years ago and oil formulations have changed since then.

I don't have a problem with the product, I have a problem when dealers and manufacturers go into a general synthetic discussion to say how great their oil is compared to everyone elses. The information is out there and we can make our own minds up. We don't need you coming in and peddling your wares.

Ban the spammer, and his wares...

Most modern auto manufacturers, especially those that make and specify very high power density engines and the oils that go into them pretty much toss the 4-ball test over their shoulders, forgotten. That test in no way reflects on REAL WORLD use of engine oils. What protects your balls, won't cut it in a string trimmer, let alone a car. :D

And if Amsoil WAS that good, you would think it would carry either the beginnings of International standards, but who are the ones that do?

Mobil
Castrol
Royal Purple
In fact, all of the oils you tried to put down as you raise Amsoil carry certs that would make me think about using it. And here's another tip:

Pissing in a fellows cornflakes when they ask a few questions - is not how one makes friends, or sales for that matter. Now go pee somewhere else please.

Most modern auto manufacturers, especially those that make and specify very high power density engines and the oils that go into them pretty much toss the 4-ball test over their shoulders, forgotten. That test in no way reflects on REAL WORLD use of engine oils. What protects your balls, won't cut it in a string trimmer, let alone a car. :D

And if Amsoil WAS that good, you would think it would carry either the beginnings of International standards, but who are the ones that do?

Mobil
Castrol
Royal Purple
In fact, all of the oils you tried to put down as you raise Amsoil carry certs that would make me think about using it. And here's another tip:

Pissing in a fellows cornflakes when they ask a few questions - is not how one makes friends, or sales for that matter. Now go pee somewhere else please.

Ageed, but with one comment.

don't trust the international standards that much.

API still thinks we should be changing dino oil every 3000miles when it is proven even by manufacturers in their manuals that the oil can last double that easily.

True, true, but my point was to use your head. Compare those standards (And yeah, to you, API would be an international standard, but - it's not one I pay attention to in my own back yard) and look into what they involve. Volskwagen, Audi, BMW and Mercedes/AMG demand some of the toughest standards, especially in turbo equipped vehicles. Some of AMG/Mercedes' designs deliver whalloping power densities to the cubic inch of displacement and the oil has to be up to managing that power very safely for an engine that will last a decent amount of time. It's kinda weird how Germany has their act together on the oil standards and we're fumbling in the dark in comparison. API's a joke lately anyway. They have allowed sub-standard oils to leak out into the marketplace recently due to Katrina caused shortages.

And you all thought I was crazy for buying up 70+ quarts of German Castrol 0w-30. Well, I'm not hunting around for good oil at the moment. :lol: :evillol:

hope you got the green stuff.

But of course, and with over 2000 miles on the "green stuff", it's still green....mostly. It's kinda oil slick black with a hue of green to it in daylight. It's doing a super job of cleaning out the engine and still runs smooth as silk. I'm going to swap the filter out at 3.5K and run another 2.5K miles + top up oil before completely changing it out. The first run's always going to clean up after the previous oil and what it left behind. (2 quarts Shell Rotella Synthetic 15w-40 to three quarts Shell Rotella 10w-30 organic - that REALLY cleaned her pipes) Over the course of the past 7000 miles, she's really cleaned up awesomely under the valve covers. Removing the oil filler neck shows pristine looking steel and aluminum, like she was factory fresh. Little puddles of green pool in the low spots atop of rockers and whatnot, but she's looking great. Can't wait to roll this truck into the 300,000+ mile club. :D

But of course, and with over 2000 miles on the "green stuff", it's still green....mostly. It's kinda oil slick black with a hue of green to it in daylight. It's doing a super job of cleaning out the engine and still runs smooth as silk. I'm going to swap the filter out at 3.5K and run another 2.5K miles + top up oil before completely changing it out. The first run's always going to clean up after the previous oil and what it left behind. (2 quarts Shell Rotella Synthetic 15w-40 to three quarts Shell Rotella 10w-30 organic - that REALLY cleaned her pipes) Over the course of the past 7000 miles, she's really cleaned up awesomely under the valve covers. Removing the oil filler neck shows pristine looking steel and aluminum, like she was factory fresh. Little puddles of green pool in the low spots atop of rockers and whatnot, but she's looking great. Can't wait to roll this truck into the 300,000+ mile club. :D

Nice.

You should be fine for 300k with that oil for sure.

Just bought a 95 Blazer and am getting ready to do an engine flush, then switch is to Mobil 1 5W-30. This would be my first engine using synthetic oil (except for synthetic blends). What swayed me was that Wal-Mart had the 5 quart jugs for 20.17, that's a good savings over the single quart price of 5.38.

Another thing swaying my descision was that this Blazer is bone dry underneath, no leaks. I'll probably switch the 93 Blazer over on the next change. It had a major oil leak, turned out to be the right valve cover gasket (somone acutally got about a 4" section slipped past that lip inside the valve cover. It appears to not be leaving any oil drops now though after replacing that valve cover gasket.

You should be completely fine.

Just use a great oil filter for your application and for the first time using synthetic, change it out after 5000miles seeing you will see the tremendous amount of crud it will be removing and it will get pretty dirty pretty fast.

Just don't use a fram oil filter. Use a Wix, Supertech, Purolator, AC Delco, Napa (Wix) to be safe and get proper filtering.

Just doing some thinking here. If an engine flush is done, with these engines having the oil lines running to the oil filter, doesn't this leave some oil with the flush chemical in the line after draining and changing the oil and filter? Is it enough to be concerned about, possibly warranting the need to change the engine oil sooner rather than later to clean even more of the old oil and flush out?

"Just don't use a fram oil filter. Use a Wix, Supertech, Purolator, AC Delco, Napa (Wix) to be safe and get proper filtering."

Figures, that's what I bought, a FRAM. I'm giving it extra draining time so I guess I'll run to town and grab another filter:)

Hey 93LT, the little bit of flush chemical left over in the engine will not harm a thing, Just refill it with some fresh Mobil 1 and a good filter and my friend your good to go...

Hey 93LT, the little bit of flush chemical left over in the engine will not harm a thing, Just refill it with some fresh Mobil 1 and a good filter and my friend your good to go...

There is one decently built fram oil filter, the X2. It is the best one they make. I am not sure I personally would use a supertech but I am sure they are fine. I honestly stick to Wix and Napa which as we know are basically the same. AC Delco is also fine. A good cheal oil filter to do a flush with is an STP. Cost me like .89 cents one day at AutoBone. Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving

I did like the Fram X2, but I thought it was a little too restrict and filtered a little too well.

I would rather have more oil flow than better filtering.

I did like the Fram X2, but I thought it was a little too restrict and filtered a little too well.

I would rather have more oil flow than better filtering.

Exactly my thoughts on it. That is why now I use a WIX filter, not the NAPA version but the actually WIX filter. They are not easy to come by here.

They are practically the same so the WIX should do well.

BTW, the STP filter is good as well. Cheap to and I believe made by Champion Labs. Good filter for the price.

Wow, I'm sold on Synthetic Motor Oil! I've only got about 500 miles on my recently converted-to-synthetic oil 95 Blazer with 112500+ on it, I just checked the oil and it looks like I just poored it in! Wiping the dipstick with a paper towel gives the same impression.

I'm converting all my late models to Synthetic at their next oil change intervals. I just used the GUNK engine flush as directed prior to the conversion to Mobil 1 5W-30.

i have bout 90k on my replaced engine..... you think i should go to synthetic? i use synthetic in all my hondas...like i stated before i have no clue bout anything to do with this blazer i just got it and the person who delivered it was the father not the son whos blazer it was so he knew nothing... so where can i get this flush??? will it harm any gaskets or rings or anything how does it work i mean what are the steps? im trying to make my blazer the most reliable as possible and the most fuel efficient as well. i am very broke so i am trying to treat stuff with care now .....

Gunk oil flush can be found at Walmart, or just about any Automotive supply store. It's a quart in volume, so you will have to make a little room for it. When you pick up the flush, pick up TWO new oil filters, one el-cheapo since it's only going to be used for the duration of the flush, the other a decent brand. Like AC/Delco, Wix or Napa gold. (All get good marks IMO.) Pick up a pack of copper crush gaskets. (Look for ones marked for use on 13mm pan bolts.) Pick up ye-olde favorite synthetic in a 5-quart jug. Mobil-1 5w-30 or 10w-30 in either Tri-Syn or Supersyn formulations will work excellently.

After the engine has cooled for a bit, and you have a 4x4, you'll need a 1/2" wrench to pull the bolt out of the filter access door on the driver's side of the truck, just under the front bumper. It's spring loaded, so you'll need two hands to work the filter out, but it will be behind that door. Spin on your cheapo filter, and be sure to get a little lube on the gasket before you spin it on. Once it is threaded onto the boss, spin it on until it just touches the metal base. Then give it another 3/4 turn by hand to snug it up so it doesn't leak. Go back up topside and add the Gunk flush to the oil through the filler cap on the side of the engine, the cap for it will be sticking up out of the valve cover - it's hard to miss.

Start the engine and let it *idle*. Don't touch the gas pedal for nothing. Don't drive the truck...period You'll wipe your bearings out in a heartbeat. Let it idle up to normal operating temp, altogether not letting it run more than 20-30 minutes, tops. Shut the motor down, and get back under the truck. Pull the drain plug in the oil pan and let that old oil and what the Gunk flush knocked out flow...do it when hot so the most of it flows straight out. It helps if you have the truck parked on level ground too. Change your filter again for your *good* filter. Wipe the oil filter relocator (the part that the filter screws onto) completely clean with a clean towel or rag. Lube the gasket face on the filter with *fresh* oil from the jug. It's enough to just dip your finger into the jug so just your fingertip is wet with oil, it doesn't take much. Spin the new filter up onto the boss threads again, careful to not cross-thread, and use hand pressure ONLY. Never use a tool to tighten filters into place. As soon as the gasket touches the metal again, turn it an additional 3/4 turn to make it snug. By now, your oil's finished draining, or - it's just a few drips and drops here and there. Clean the threads of your oil pan bolt by rubbing it down with your rag. Poke the bolt back up into the hole after installing a fresh copper crush gasket onto the bolt. Finger tighten the bolt all the way in first, before you use any tool to tighten it. If it's cross-threaded and you force it on, you'll NEVER stop the oil leak you just made. Once snug by hand, take ye olde torque wrench set for 35 Ft.LBS and give it a final twist to make it snug.

If your trucks a 95 or earlier, 4.5 quarts is what you need to fill the crankcase again. 96 on, drop the whole 5 quarts in. Count your tools, and drag everything out from under the truck. Make sure your oil fill cap is in place and you have wiped up any under-hood spills. Start her up and look for leaks. Make sure that you close the flap over the filter and tighten up the bolt snug to keep it shut, but before doing so look for leaks there too around the oil filter.

Enjoy the self-satisfaction of going a nasty job well, flushing the crap out of you block, and running on super slick and cool synthetic oils. ;)

i have bout 90k on my replaced engine..... you think i should go to synthetic? i use synthetic in all my hondas...like i stated before i have no clue bout anything to do with this blazer i just got it and the person who delivered it was the father not the son whos blazer it was so he knew nothing... so where can i get this flush??? will it harm any gaskets or rings or anything how does it work i mean what are the steps? im trying to make my blazer the most reliable as possible and the most fuel efficient as well. i am very broke so i am trying to treat stuff with care now .....

Yes, use synthetic if you don't have any leaks right now.

All you have to save is wear and money. And remember, use a good oil filter (Not Fram), and change the oil every 6000 miles.