Dude WTF!

So yeah, my car started knocking again, so I think to myself that some how a rod bearing already went bad somehow. I pull out the trusty stehoscope and listen to her heart beat, and I notice that sound is coming from the center of the block.

Last night I dropped the oil pan and took a look see. the pan was clean of shavings for the most part, There were some micro shavings from everything bearking in and what not, and there were some bigger chunks, however I think those some how snuck past me in the rebuild.

So anyway, I pull of the big hickey ma jigger that holds the crank in place. All of the crank bearings look good, next step is the rob bearings, grab on to the rod caps and see if any have play, nope, all of those bearings are good too, check the thrust bearings, those are cool too.

So I put it all back together even more confused than ever! :eek7:

Compression is running about 240-245 on all 4 cyl., but I am running extremly rich and burning oil, due to the fact that I didn't think to change the valve stem seals when I replaced those.

oil pump?

get yourself a oil pressure gauge and see how much psi your car is kicking. If I were you just give your new motor a couple more oil changes every 500 miles and see if that helps at all.

Compression is running about 240-245 on all 4 cyl., but I am running extremly rich and burning oil, due to the fact that I didn't think to change the valve stem seals when I replaced those.

Thats some good compression, you running a high compression motor? Try switching to normal oil, not synthetic, my car seemed to burn oil when i switched to synthetic. What weight oil are you running, you might be running too thick of oil which could cause the knocking.

maby someones at the door?

here's the deal, I have about a 9.9:1 comp. ratio. I was running good old dyno Oil 10w 30 for break-in and it was burning, then I switched to Castrol GTX, which is a semi syn. at just over 200 miles, the rings are seated real nice as noted by the compression.

I know why its burning it, it's caused by the valve stem seals, I should have changed those out when I put in new valves, but I totally didn't think of them.

but yeah the oil pressure gauge does sound like a good idea, it could be the oil pump...

Oh yeah, my Vtec still clicks on though... so I dunno about oil pressure being a culprit.

Aight I just took it out for a quick spin, and she got a whole lot worse real quick like, it has to be a damned rod bearing again! Guess I get to pull the oil pan off again tonight... yay

found my problem, bad rod bearing already, there must have been a burr or something on that crank shaft when I put it together and it destroyed the number 3 rod bearing...

Damn man, I hope you get everything straightened out! It is such a relief to finally find out what's going on! I'm having problems with my cooling system getting real hot and building up a lot of pressure and I think it leaks out and stuff.

there air in the system, and is your thermostat opening?

well, i donno about the air, how would i know either one? it doesn't over heat untill it's just lost enough fluid

no luck for you at all :(

well, i donno about the air, how would i know either one? it doesn't over heat untill it's just lost enough fluid


There is a bleeder valve on the water outlet on the top hose. You should crack that open while your filling it (like after a coolant change or massive loss). Once coolant starts coming out of the bleeder valve the system should be free of air.

Start the car with the heater knob on hot and cap off (top off as necessary).
After a while the coolant level will rise and you should then cap the radiatior.

GL

Damn man, I hope you get everything straightened out! It is such a relief to finally find out what's going on! I'm having problems with my cooling system getting real hot and building up a lot of pressure and I think it leaks out and stuff.


Blown head gasket? :(

Blown head gasket? :(

NOT I just put my head back on with a brand new 3 layer metal head gasket and ARP Head Studs...I KNOW the symtoms, and that ain't it..I'll try the bleeder valve thx.

the other thing you can do is try bars stop leak, that stuff works miracles if you have a leak, and as for my troubles, I know a kid in town who has an extra D15 laying around that put a rod through the side, I'm trading him a set of old Si injectors for it hehe, so i may just have to buy a few bearings and thats all...

that'd be cool.. I heard that stop leak ship just clogs up our small radiators, PLUS I just put a brand new radiator in and replaced the hose that goes from the firewall to the side of the block, I want to find out whats leaking, not just rig it.

I filled it up on wednsday night and now on the way to work it was starting to run hot again. I also saw a drip last night but didn't have enough time to see where it was comming from, it was dripping off of the driver side lower radiator support hole, so I don't know where that could be leaking from...i'm gonna check later today

Check that butterfly valve on the bottom of the radiator to make sure it is tightened down all of the way. It could be causing your fluid to drip out slowly enough to not realize it, but enough to cause damage.

the thing on the passenger side that you let the fluid out of?

its called a petcock