Trouble shifting into second gear

Hi everyone,
The manual transmission on my 97 Civic all of a sudden one day started to resist going into 2nd gear. All other gears behave fine. The problem seems to get better after I drive it for sometime. The weather did get colder just the day before the problem started. Can this exagerate any pre-existing problems with the transmission? Can it be a snchro gone bad :( or as simple as needing a transmission fluid change?

2nd gear is the most used gear in a standard transmission, so its not uncommon for them to be the first synchros to go out. That's probably what it is.

a fluid change may help(most likey not)

Yep, and after 2nd, 3rd. and 3rd is used more vigurosly than 2nd. though 3rd is also built stronger than 2nd...

Hi!
Is there a filter for the transmission fluid that needs to be changed too?

a fluid change may help(most likey not)

not in a manual

Change the fluid to redline gear oil, also when you first start your car in the morning, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then shift through the gears slowly. It is not uncommon for manual trannies to require more force to get into a gear when the weather gets colder. If your synchros were bad then you would be getting grinding even when the car was warmed up.

Hi! Thanks for clarifying. I was wondering why should a synchronizer problem should get better with temperature. Any way, my manual says NOT to add motor oil (in the worst case, to use it as a temperory substitute). I was planning to go for Honda Manual transmission fluid. Does the redline gear oil have any advantages?

Change the fluid to redline gear oil, also when you first start your car in the morning, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then shift through the gears slowly. It is not uncommon for manual trannies to require more force to get into a gear when the weather gets colder. If your synchros were bad then you would be getting grinding even when the car was warmed up.

got this off a webside that sells a few red line fluids, but in short, its synthetic and designed for racing.

The D4 ATF is designed to satisfy the improved low-temperature requirements of the new Dexron IV specification, and the improved shear-stability requirements of the new Mercon specifications. The D4 ATF also provides significantly improved gear protection and will provide a GL-4 level of gear protection, making it a superior product for transmissions and transaxles. The balanced frictional characteristics provide smooth and consistent shifts for extended drain intervals. The superior stability compared to petroleum ATFs allows high-temperature operation without varnishing valves and clutches.

a fluid change may help(most likey not)

yea that help me; i had trouble going into 2nd and 5th(88 CRX). i changed the fluid with Pennzoil Syncromesh fluid and its all better now :).

it does sound like its the fluid me because the longer you drive the tranmission will heat up; which also heats up the fluid.

Hi! I know many of you have been suggesting I have the trans fluid changed. I went to a mechanic today morning (not many are open on a saturday) and I told him about the problem and that I want that fluid changed. He said something like "It sounds like a problem with the clutch system. We might have to take it apart to *diagnose* it. It is a 1hr job, so it will cost you $70. Changing the transmission fluid might be a wastage of money, it might even make it worse". I asked him what does the clutch system have to do with hard gear changes once the clutch has completely disengaged. He said something about it being responsible for the <vague answer> gears shifting into lower gear smoothly to deliver more power. I took the keys from him and ran away saying I don't have 1 hour as I am busy today.

My question is, was he clearly trying to rip me? Is there even a remote chance it is related to the clutch system? How much do you think a manual transmission fluid change should cost? I can't do it myself as I can't get under the car. It does sound easier than an oil change though based on my research on the web!


Change the fluid to redline gear oil, also when you first start your car in the morning, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then shift through the gears slowly. It is not uncommon for manual trannies to require more force to get into a gear when the weather gets colder. If your synchros were bad then you would be getting grinding even when the car was warmed up.

just buy a set of ramps so you can get under the car

also, i noticed you're in the same zip code as me, what shop did you go to? I had pretty good luck with First Class Auto Repair on Northside earlier this year when I had a problem. Also if you want some help with changing the fluid, I'm pretty bored this weekend and have some ramps.

yes it sounds like hes trying to get money out of you. checking the clutch=removing tranmission=$$$. if the clutch was a problem you would feel the effects in all gears....

I used brake fluid for my clutch fluid

I think he was talking about the system that operates the clutch (the primary cylinder, secondary cylinder, or some other words like that). But I am pretty sure the clutch disengages fully. So I believe this was still a rip-off attempt.

yes it sounds like hes trying to get money out of you. checking the clutch=removing tranmission=$$$. if the clutch was a problem you would feel the effects in all gears....

Hey,
I would definetely suggest you go to http://www.ineed1.com/quikmechanic.html.

They offer quick answers to car problems, at a cheap price of just $1. They helped me out when I couldn't figure out why my car temperature would rise when I come to stop, and be ok when driving. You'd think it would be the other way around, Anyway, I waste more than a $1 a day on junk anyway, so felt I could afford to lose it if anything. It's better than going some of those mechanic who tell you garbage, and charge you big money for nothing, or worse a shady tree mechanic with no real training.

Good Luck,
Chutch

Hi! I have decided to change the fluid myself. Can you tell me what is the size of the wrench I need to open the drain and filler bolt? How do I add the fluid once I drained the old one? I will buy a manual which explains the process (is there anything to it other than: open the drain bolt, let everything drain, close it and fill it upto the fill bolt opening and close it). But are there any special precautions to take?

Change the fluid to redline gear oil, also when you first start your car in the morning, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then shift through the gears slowly. It is not uncommon for manual trannies to require more force to get into a gear when the weather gets colder. If your synchros were bad then you would be getting grinding even when the car was warmed up.