brake vibrations

It's a LONG shot. Never really did it that way. Always used a C-clamp and a good short piece of oak trim so as not to damage anything. (C-clamps are always good to have around)

If you bench press 500 lbs with 1 arm yes lol
No you will not be able to do it with out some type of tool.
Dont tell anyone I told you this But if you leave the caliper on the truck and even before you take the slide pins off take a good size screwdriver and wedge it between the back side of the rotor and the pad thats on the caliper piston. Pull the screwdriver towards you and that will push the piston in Or just go and buy a c- clamp . I should not have said this because its a cheat and well a pro doing it is a no-no

No, but this will enable you to use te old brake surface to push it back instead of the caliper cylinder when pushing it back.

will i be able to push the piston in with my hands?

Probably not to the extent that you will need to in order to fit the pads over the new rotors.

C clamps (or the Lisle tool) makes it easier.

But I cannot beleive we are still on this damn subject, and after readin the last 2 pages, I am now highly skeptical that many of the posters have even SEEN a brake caliper let alone worked on one.

ITs simple, with the hose of a 1 man bleeder ($6.97 at advance auto) hooked up, you give 1/4 turn to the bleed screw and begin tightening the C clamp. Actually, with this method you likely wont need the c clamp.

The piston will bottom out, and unless you have a severe brain fart and then let the caliper hang upside down for about 2-3hrs to let the master cylinder completely drain, no air will travel back up the line.

Why do we drain off the caliper fluid and not force it back up? This is the fluid that was heated the most. Any moisture in the system, being denser, will be down here, as well as carmelized glycol. Do we REALLY want this back upstream in the resevoir or in the ABS unit? No. This method is far easier than finding a turkey baster or gravy ladle for the master cylinder, and it covers the case where you would not take out enuf and it overflows onto the engine compartment. Brake fluid is hard on non-brake components.

Do what you wish. There is the right way, and then there is every other way. I just gave you the right way. As always, you are getting your moneys worth of free advice.

Quaddriver said

But I cannot beleive we are still on this damn subject, and after readin the last 2 pages, I am now highly skeptical that many of the posters have even SEEN a brake caliper let alone worked on one.

ITs simple, with the hose of a 1 man bleeder ($6.97 at advance auto) hooked up, you give 1/4 turn to the bleed screw and begin tightening the C clamp. Actually, with this method you likely wont need the c clamp.

The piston will bottom out, and unless you have a severe brain fart and then let the caliper hang upside down for about 2-3hrs to let the master cylinder completely drain, no air will travel back up the line.
Are you saying you know the right way and everyone else is wrong?? Wow Lets hope this guy does not forget to close the bleeder and step on the brake pedal ooooopppps to late off the tool rental place to rent a pressure bleeder . Hope its not to far of a walk.

You said it your self (brain fart) you have no idea what this guy can and can not do. And if they are in this forum looking for help on a brake jobe then I would bet he has VERY LITTLE experance doing this type of work.
So the bleeder snaps off now what?? he get air in the abs system now what??
I would do it the way you said but take the lesser of two evels methed.
I have see to many people destroy to many things because they thought they new what they where doing or my friend said to do it.
Fireplug

We got 5 pages on changing brake pads. Lets move on it's not brain surgery!!!!

I'm sorry if I annoyed anyone by asking for help. I'm not wasting any of your time because I actually am going to do this and you all have all helped. I have the Haynes manual and I know it's not "brain surgery" but based on my experience, it's never smart to start a project without all information, and I want to get this right the first time. I was asking questions because I was thinking it through, not because I like web chatter. Some of these things need to be learned before experiencing them. I have learned a lot and trust all of your opinions. Next time I'll just pay someone else to do my dirtywork.

Check your Haynes manual, it will say that you don't have to bleed the system either.

Make sure you don't hang the calipur by the brake hose. Don't ever do that.

Pull the cap off of the resovoir
Put the pads on
install the caliper
Done

Trust me, if you get air into the brake system, as Fireplug said, you will have one hell of a time getting the air out.

Didn't mean to come across the wrong way----I apologize. Don't pay somebody else for a job like this. It's never wrong to ask too many questions because ya don't want anything to go wrong and then have to take it in and pay somebody big $$$. Good luck and if ya follow all the instructions given (don't open the bleeder) you should have NO problems.

Last post on this

VERY IMPORTANT PLEASE WHEN YOU ARE ALL DONE AND BEFORE YOU EVEN START UP THE TRUCK PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL AND MAKE SUREITS HIGH AND HARD.

I'm sorry if I annoyed anyone by asking for help. I'm not wasting any of your time because I actually am going to do this and you all have all helped. I have the Haynes manual and I know it's not "brain surgery" but based on my experience, it's never smart to start a project without all information, and I want to get this right the first time. I was asking questions because I was thinking it through, not because I like web chatter. Some of these things need to be learned before experiencing them. I have learned a lot and trust all of your opinions. Next time I'll just pay someone else to do my dirtywork.

NO DON'T FEEL THAT WAY!!

It is apparent that you feel that you have enough skill to attempt this. Learning all you can PRIOR to any job or ripping something apart is SMART. I do it all the time, get the book and look at it if in doubt.

Quaddriver and Fireplug are BOTH right. One is from an experienced point of view and the other is trying to help and keep you out of trouble so that you are successful with perhaps limited skills.

Here's a thought, if your still in doubt, have a friend who has done this before stand by as you do it. I'm sure you must know someone.

And lastly, you will never learn if you don't try, so go ahead, get dirty. The only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked.

Ok, I'm stepping down from the soapbox.

EVERYONE,
thanks for your help. The job went extremely smooth. It took about 1.5 hours to do the job however, I forgot to grease the caliper bolts like I wanted to. My brake fluid looks a little dirty to me (a little darker than budweiser), but everything is working beautifully to me. Smooth, easy braking with no vibrations. I used orange antichatter compound on the backs of my brakepads and that seems to be working nicely too.

After I lowered my jimmy and pumped the brakes for a while my car didn't want to start up. It was turning over, but it was like the fuel pressure was low. I had my ebrake set when I was trying to turn it over (this couldn't have made any difference). I wiggled my "black" cable into my ecm and after 2 more tries it started. I sure hope my fuel pump isn't going.

Way to go!!!!!!!!! Budweiser?????????

Wow, that was clean brake fluid then.

Good job m8!!!!