Box Help!

Hey. I know most of you hate power acoustik, but yea, i have 2 12" fubr's with a power acoustik A3000db amp. Anyway, right now, i have them in a Q-logic dual box( sealed ), in my 94 probe hatch, with like 1 cube each, so its a tiny box. maybe less actually. Anyway, i want to build a box! That is, if you think they could get louder, or better SQ. Please dont reccommend new subs or anything, i just want to know what to do for this box issue. Plus, where are directions to build one! I want to learn! :smile:

Off topic, but how do u like that A3000 amp?

Love it. Great price, pumps the crap out of my fubr's. Stays cool too, never hot. Lots of power too, class D, digital mono.

Yea, so anything on a box? ...c'mon pimps

You can not build a generic box... You need to know what subs they are and what model

I HATE NOOBS

wtf? I told you that they were fubr 12's.... but nevermind that....since i'll have the xxx 15 soon, any sites with plans for them?

fubr 12"s is that a brand?

power acoustic fubr

I don't know why in god's name any marketer would name a product fubr, I mean that's like the nova in mexico, it's just a stupid thing to name a product....

especially when fubr stands for F'ed up beyond reason

exactly

do you have a j audio dealer near you the best box is one of ther power wedge boxes i have the same subs i hit 151

J audio? i think yo umean JL audio and the power wedge works well for high tuning with low powered low excursion woofers...not potentialy high powered and decently high excurstion woofers such as the XXX 15... and orion955 just because a woofer is the same size doesnt mean it will hit anywhere near the same sound levels...one RE audio HF 15 may be able to hit 153dB but that doesnt mean a legacy anything 15 will be able to hit anywhere near the 150dB's...its like comparing kiwi to lemons of the same size. one is sweet and one is sour...though the sour can taste good with a hint of sugar added....but you cant make the legacy 15 sound sweet.... :lol2:

why dont you read the hole thing befor you try to sound like you know what you are talking a bout i have the same two subs in that box so i said he should get the box no one cares about legecy

what are you talking about. your atill a moron. Why dont YOU read my entire post. then maybe you will understand why i didnt reccommend it. If he wants any quality whatsoever the power wedge sucks for high excursion subs. i mean its just a sealed enclosure with a few baffles and braces built for JL's poo sub worth about $40 but priced at 100+ W0. if yo uwant a truely great woofer enclosure you have to build and design one BY YOUR SELF that is specified to your application and your woofer. by far IMO ported will deliver same SQ and always (not IMO fact) better SPL over sealed. if you are going for pure SPL in a hatch you should find its resonant frequincy and tune near that frequincy. im geustamating its around 60-65Hz because the resonant frequincy in a blazer (back when i had my blazer i was an SPL freak with 2 audiobahn ALUM 12's. and i didnt even drive, lol) is ~56Hz and the air volumein a hatch would be slightly less and therefore have a slightly higher resonant frequincy. Abell255, if all you are after is SPL with thoes two woofers thene follw the directions below, if not find some specs on that woofer and tune a box where you have a -3dB gain ~5Hz above its lowest possible frequincy (or to where you have the flatttest responce with out trying to make the woofer push frequincies below its lowest recommended frequincy, that will kill you voice coil). there is a program called WinISD that is free and helpful when looking at hypothetical woofer enclosures and woofers to see what yo ucan expect. so anyway for pure spl do as follows.

-Use the box you have now, get a dB meter, talke it out in an open feil where there are fery few objects for sound to reflect on back towards your dB meter.
-Play frequincies in 5Hz Jumps from 20-120Hz. record the reading at every frequincy played. Note: if yo uwant to look at dB gains from your sealed enclosure to your future ported enclosure get a voltomoter and measure voltage coming out of your amp. @4ohms it whould be 2.83v. this will give you ~ 2w of power. for @2ohms 2.0v will give you ~2w. @8ohms 4.0v will give a 2w signal. but remember to always test a 1m (~1yard) away and use the same signal for both tests (your sealed and ported, once you build it, enclosures)
-now that you have a chart of dB*Frequincy 20-120 in 5Hz incramanets. go to your car and place your box in the far back facing forward. play the same frequincies with the same signal as before and take all your dB readings agian. the frequincy wich obtained the highest jump is your cars aprox. resonant frequincy. for SPL applications properly tuneing to the resonant frequincy is a matter of 150dB or 130 something dB. Note: there are 3 places you may want to find which frequincy gives the highest gain. 1m away from the woofers, inthe exacy center of the vehicle and on the dashfront right where SPL competition meters are often placed. if you will be compeating gio with the resonant frequincy on the dash, if just looking to set off car alarms while in the parking lot in the middle of the car (the true resonant frequincy) is best and the 1m away is just to give a constant incase there is very little change between the two (dash and middle of the car)
-now, find how much volume your woofer will displace from the enclosure. build your box to maximum factory reccommended net volume. however, do not listen to the factory on how to tune the enclosure. companies are often very WRONG on how to tune an enclosure. JL audio is one of the few manufactures to understand how to tune a ported enclosure. insteado f me trying to explain it and type out formulas long hand JL has a simple tutorial Click Here (http://jlaudio.com/tutorials/ports/index.html)
Note: Contrary to popular beleive it is not port volume that matters when tuneing. the larger the port area the longer hte port has to be. IMO slotted (square) ports are more eficent in using up space. always remember to smooth down anything port related with some 80-120grit sand paper untill every corner even near the port is rounded off.
-build your enclosure out of 3/4" (atthe smallest) MDF (mid density fiberboard) or HDF (high density fiberboard). if you cannot find MDF use solid wood, NEVRER USE PLYWOOD, IT HAS THE TENDANCY TO WARP CAUSE HORRIBLE SOUND, a good hard solid wood like birch or oak will work great (3/4" thick of corse) but will cost you quite a bit to build an enclosure of any size. also, NEVER USE PARTICLE BOARD, it falls apart into a pile of sawdust with the slightest hint of H20. a local cabinetry company should help you along with a good place to find MDF. i have to get mine from a town over 45 munites away but the extra gas is worht it, trust me.
-when building your enclosure go easyer on the screws and HELLA heavy on the glue. ive tried this stuff called gorilla glue. if you use it you dont hardly need screws if you clamp it. the screws you should use should be self taping drywall screws. even though they are self tapping and should be safe to use with out pre drilling it is still a good idea and counter sink to make everything smooth out (unless you dont care about how your box looks, as long as it sounds good. like me, lol) after the gule drys get some pure silicone or acrylic silicoized chaulking and seal everything up WELL...ports seams you name it chaulking should be there. your 3 best friends when box building are cynder blocks and spacers to hold crap down, glue, and chaukling. Note: when silicon/acrylic chaulking dries it releases gases that are known to kill woofer's suspension. its a good idea to let the box dry over night before placeing the woofers in the enclosure.
-now, get your woofer enclosure all hooxed up but alow some slack in the wires to move the enclosure around so you can see where it sounds best/loudest before mounting it permanitly.

im not doning cliff notes, if you want to learn get over my spelling errors and bad grammar.