cold no heat burrrr
jackass#1
10-04-2004, 10:30 AM
heater doesnt work
takes forever to blow hot air and then it will start to blow cold for awhile
need some help please, getting chilly here
95 villager
takes forever to blow hot air and then it will start to blow cold for awhile
need some help please, getting chilly here
95 villager
jackass#1
10-04-2004, 11:20 AM
just thought i bought used could it be missing thermast
how could i tell without unbolting cover
how could i tell without unbolting cover
jackass#1
10-06-2004, 05:06 PM
found it was a clogged heater core. inlet hose hot but outlet hose cold. anyway to unclog it without taking everything apart????
chrismak
11-02-2004, 04:34 PM
found it was a clogged heater core. inlet hose hot but outlet hose cold. anyway to unclog it without taking everything apart????
Hey Jackass,
I have a similar problem on my 97 villager.
Highway driving it gets barely lukewarm and when I get in city it warms up.
Any suggestions
Chris
Hey Jackass,
I have a similar problem on my 97 villager.
Highway driving it gets barely lukewarm and when I get in city it warms up.
Any suggestions
Chris
PAPABEAR76058
11-08-2004, 10:27 AM
What I did on my 94 to unplug my heater core. Was to take the supply and return hoses off and flush them out with a water hose. After i did that the heater worked great. :smokin:
doug6949
12-04-2004, 03:48 PM
The problem might actually be a bubble of trapped air in the heater core as opposed to clogging. This is a known issue with the Villager and is caused by letting the coolant get too low. You can usually fix it by topping off the surge tank, parking the vehicle facing up a steep incline and letting it run for about 15 minutes with the heater on.
As a testament to the integrity of our local dealer, we took the car in to get this fixed. They hooked it up to the computer and told us it needed a thermistat and O2 sensor. The quote was nearly $800. Suspecting a scam (we had just replaced the T-stat), I paid the $80 for the "diagnosis" and took the car home. I found the solution on a forum the next day.
Doug
As a testament to the integrity of our local dealer, we took the car in to get this fixed. They hooked it up to the computer and told us it needed a thermistat and O2 sensor. The quote was nearly $800. Suspecting a scam (we had just replaced the T-stat), I paid the $80 for the "diagnosis" and took the car home. I found the solution on a forum the next day.
Doug
jackass#1
01-03-2005, 04:02 AM
when i flushed it out there was like a ball of yellow gunk
that came out. a buddy of mine told me the first owner propaply use some kind of coolant that was known for gumming up. cant remember what he called it. so i
got the prestone flush kit and flushed the whole thing. i couldnt believe the gunk that came out. all yellow slim.
that came out. a buddy of mine told me the first owner propaply use some kind of coolant that was known for gumming up. cant remember what he called it. so i
got the prestone flush kit and flushed the whole thing. i couldnt believe the gunk that came out. all yellow slim.
racefan2448
01-23-2005, 05:26 PM
my heater and power steering has gone out,lastweek it started making a funny noise like a belt or something.but now i have no heat or power steering.
paradox355
02-17-2005, 01:39 PM
my heater and power steering has gone out,lastweek it started making a funny noise like a belt or something.but now i have no heat or power steering.
Since your power steering is gone along with the heat, it's most likely your water pump. Loss of power steering is usually a sure sign of a bad water pump and that is the first thing I check when it happens.
Since your power steering is gone along with the heat, it's most likely your water pump. Loss of power steering is usually a sure sign of a bad water pump and that is the first thing I check when it happens.
paradox355
02-17-2005, 01:51 PM
I too am having problems with the heater in a 97 Villager.
After talking to a mechanic at the local dealership he confirmed what was previosly stated in this thread...that they are well known for having problems with air pockets and clogged heater cores.
While topping off the radiator I noticed alot of air bubbles coming out, so I am going to try the method stated by doug6949 (thanks for the tip!). I will post my results here.
If that does not solve the problem I'm going to try flushing the heater core, but I am unsure about how to go about this. Can anyone explain how to remove the hoses on the engine side of the heater core? Do I remove the metal tubes that go into the heater core or detach the hose on the side opposite the metal tubes? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
After talking to a mechanic at the local dealership he confirmed what was previosly stated in this thread...that they are well known for having problems with air pockets and clogged heater cores.
While topping off the radiator I noticed alot of air bubbles coming out, so I am going to try the method stated by doug6949 (thanks for the tip!). I will post my results here.
If that does not solve the problem I'm going to try flushing the heater core, but I am unsure about how to go about this. Can anyone explain how to remove the hoses on the engine side of the heater core? Do I remove the metal tubes that go into the heater core or detach the hose on the side opposite the metal tubes? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PAPABEAR76058
03-01-2005, 03:34 PM
What I did was take the supply and return rubber line's off the motor side of the heater core. Left the hose's on the heater core, And just flushed them out with a water hose. But U still have to get the air out of the system after this.
JDW
03-12-2005, 09:03 PM
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
Look on left side near to top –under stuff on my site - to subtopics – click on it and scroll down to coolant refill – tells of a couple more tricks – with radiator cap and also a bleader valve that needs to be open to let air out of the system.
Look on left side near to top –under stuff on my site - to subtopics – click on it and scroll down to coolant refill – tells of a couple more tricks – with radiator cap and also a bleader valve that needs to be open to let air out of the system.
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