blower motor problems

My 97 Taurus blower motor worked when I got it a couple months ago. Then the blower motor worked intermittently. If I turned the ac/heater selector on and off with the fan speed switch set to high the blower motor would kick on. Now I can't even get it to work this way. I changed the resistor, still nothing. Tried to bypass the speed switch and still nothing. Help!!!!!! Winter is coming and I need heat!

[QUOTE=DavidLMartin]My 97 Taurus blower motor worked when I got it a couple months ago. Then the blower motor worked intermittently. If I turned the ac/heater selector on and off with the fan speed switch set to high the blower motor would kick on. Now I can't even get it to work this way. I changed the resistor, still nothing. Tried to bypass the speed switch and still nothing. Help!!!!!! Winter is coming and I need heat!

Well it like this, chances are your blower motor has gotten water into it ands is now rusted and corroded. I just did my girlfriend 2001 taurus
It took some time but I was able to get it running again, by cleaning the armature and freeing up the brushes. (I/3 of the motor showed signs of being under water for some time). I did drill a small hole at the lowest point of the motor housing cover to let the water out if it tries to collect. I have posted a question reguarding keeping the water out all to gether but it hasn't been replied to. There must be a fix :)

i am new at this and have replyied with a quote, check your original message. Water gets into the motors and shorts them out. You can take them apart and service the brushes and armature.

The blower motor on my 96 Tarus began working intermittently. It would not always turn on, and when it did it would not turn off when the ignigion switch was turned off. (If, after turning the ignition switch to off, I switched the blower to high, then to low, the blower would switch off. Now it doesn't come on at all. The wiring diagram suggest that the problem is either the blower motor relay or the ignition switch. I am going to pull the ignition switch and check contiuity. Now I will also check the motor for water, but that is probably not my problem because I had the problem with it not turning off. The relay is a $8 repair and the switch is a $75 repair.

I had the same problem with the blower motor working intermittently,it seemed to be breaking down in phases, it would work randomly, then it stopped working completely.
I checked all fuses and the relay, as well as the resistor pack under the glove box.All were in good shape,that left only the blower motor as the cause.
If you have checked everything but the blower motor,and before you start to remove the ignition switch(it's highly unlikely that switch is your problem) remove the blower motor, get a test light,turn on your accessories at the ignition, ground your test light and probe the connection to the blower motor. If it lights you have power to the motor and the blower motor is hooped.No light it's a switch, fuse, relay or resistor pack.
I did not remove any of the dash to install the motor, I did remove my glove box,(you can see the resistor pack very well it's under the glove box)and unhooked the - battery cable and then removed the three screws holding the blower motor in place. It can be a bit tight putting the new motor back in, but if your careful and patient it will fit right in, with very little room to spare but you will save yourself a lot of time and effort.
Just my :2cents:

Ziffelpig, Thanks. I used a volt meter to check power to the motor and showed no power. I've removed the switch and will install the new one today or tomorrow. It was less expensive that I was first told. I believe it cost $15, and the steering wheel does not have to be removed, just the cowling. While I'm in there I am replacing a faulty wiper/turnsignal module. You still may be correct. I'll get everything back together and try it before I replace the cowling, incase I decide to return the switch and buy a blower moter. Thanks for your input.

How did you changed blower motor resistor? Where it is located in the car? and how difficult it is to change?

Thanks

I might be able to shed some light on this issue. I have a 2001 Taurus and have already replaced the blower motor (thank god it is easy to get to). It turns out that when the boys at the oil change place checked the cabin filter for replacement, they broke the tab off the end off the plastic panel that sits under the windshield wiper on the passenger side. This tab makes it difficult to remove the panel so they decided I didnt need it. After replacing the blower motor I made a custom tab with "duct tape". Thats my story...good luck.

LOVE A FORD

I was hoping that after looking at the resistor pack, it's rectangle in shape and just behind the glove box, it looks as if it's a coiled heater assembly with a thermalfuse attached to the assembly. Is this suppose to heat the duct work so that it reduces condensation in the duct work? This thermalfuse in the assembly has blown and I jumped it out, and checked the fan speeds, which now all work (only high speed was working) and one of my jumpers melted because of the heat that was produced from the assembly. If someone can tell me if this is normal for this assembly to get hot, I would appreciate the input. Thanks.

I replaced the blower motor relay and everything worked for about three weeks. Now the new relay burned out (The plastic adjacent to one of the pins that plugs into the fuse panel is charred). Any words of wisdom?

I replaced the blower motor relay and everything worked for about three weeks. Now the new relay burned out (The plastic adjacent to one of the pins that plugs into the fuse panel is charred). Any words of wisdom?
This is similar to the problem I'm having the relay in the underhood location had heated to the point of melting plastic. Tried new relay nothing. Still looking for resistor pack and may try to look tomarrow now that i know where to look. Did you find what your problem was? What is causing enough load to heat up wires and melt plastic?

If you have loose connections at the relay, the arcing could be causing sufficient heat to melt the connector.

-Rod