lt1 engine

I had a lifter go bad and it and wrecked the cam so i need a whole new cam with lifters but what i was wondering is now that i got the engine out and taking apart what else I might have a problem with. The engine has 100 000 miles on it and what wondering what else usually wears out with time.

I am putting new timimg chain , new rod bearings , main bearing and cam bearings. along with lifters and cam. new seal in the opti-spark new plugs + wires.

Is there anything else that should be changed at this time, pistons look good no scoring or anything.

Also the engine had low oil pressure at idle when it was warmed up it was only at the last line or little under, will new main bearing + rod bearing and cam bearings cure the low oil pressure.

Most of the time low oil pressure is caused by a spun bearing or worn oil pump. I would change the oil pump with a HD unit since they are usually pretty cheap and some added security. If I was in your position I would just do a complete rebuild with a head porting and cam package but your way should work fine too.

I would do a complete rebuild but that runs me up quite a bit more money

Yes go with the HD oil pump but do not get a High Volume one though... The reason for this is with the HV pumps when you go to brake or brake heavily the oil goes to the front of the pan and the stock baffles are not good enough to keep you engine from running dry of oil... If this happens to many times you will spin a bearing or break a crank and so on...
Your plan looks good for the rebuild are you going with a stock cam or something a little bigger??? I also agree if you have the money look into having you heads ported & polished w/ matching intake…

I am going with a little bigger cam but not a lot, do you think the cause of my low oil pressure is because of the oil pump or worn bearings the rod bearings were measured and have quite a bit of wear on them

If you buy everything as a kit and just have the blocked cleaned and done .010 over You should only be looking at around 900.00 -1000.00 and the block is then good for the another 100K +. This is if you go cast instead of forged internals. I just did a stroker kit on my LT1 and it was just over a grand for everything and I just did the dismantling ,re-assembly and head porting myself and left the rest up to the machine shop.

it cost quite a bit more where i live to have all that stuff done i live in saskatchewan canada.

OK it might I'm not really familiar with that area and I know there are some places in the world where machine shop are rare and because of this the one's that are around charge a arm and leg.

can you post or send me a pick of the way you rods are facing . They have a flat spot on one side with dots on them, do the dots go towards the front of the engine,I just got my block,crank and heads out of the machine shop with new .30 over pistons and a rebuild kit for under $900 bucks. Not bad but I think they may have pressed some of my rods on backwards.

Hold on I have my original rods out in my garage I'll go look now but I'm pretty sure they have a arrow on them so you know which way to put them in.

OK they are marked with there piston number and a G and how they go on is the lip/flange that stick out on one side of the cap at each corner all the pistons on the left side should have this lip or flange facing towards the front of the engine and all the pistons on the right side should face the rear. It was the main caps that I was thinking of. they have arrows

I dont understand about the lip or flange.Mine doesnt have it. I have a picture of mine.Is there any way that I could send it to you? Mine have a flat spot with little dots on them.

yeah sure my email is [email protected] but the rod itself if put in the wrong way would be noticed right away because the cap & rod have notches where the bearing sits and if they don't line up then one is in the wrong way and all LT1 rod caps have a smooth side and side with a lip in each corner.