Alright, one more shot

Don't want to be dumb, but u measure voltage from the two terminals on the tps itself, not the connector on the harness, with the ignition on? and idle should be .5v while WOT (foot all the way on the pedal) should be 4.5v?

Give this a try: Link (http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-56.jpg)
and this: link1 (http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-57.jpg)

My guess is there is a dead spot in the TPS that's messing things up, hope the above helps.

GL

Okay, just bought a brand new voltmeter and tried it out and the readings are scarying me. I did exactly what the helms said and on the plug, it cam out 5.04v at closed throttle, and hitting the pedal did nothing. It said it should be at .5v but this is humongously off. It says to check the ecu now, so tommorrow I'll do that.

Voltmeter was bad so I returned and got another one.

Turns out the readings are off. The closed throttle is at .63v while full throttle is at 4.32v So the tps must be off then?

Now, is it wise to adjust it to see if I can get it right before venturing out in the junkyard, or should I just go get another one? And if I put imprints in the flathead's, lossen it up, move it, and tighten it, will it not move again and is that okay or would I damage something since they're not meant to be tampered with in the first place?

Now where getting somewhere :D

come on people, a little help here please. :banghead:

After checking the voltage again, I say that when I pushed forward on the throttle plate, giving it more slack, it would go up more and that changed my idle volts to .51v. So I adjusted the plate on the throttle body that controls the diapraghm and it now idles at .51v but the wot is still 4.33v. But after test driving it, it didn't solve it at all.

On Honda-tech, the guys said something about the eacv, so I unplugged it and they said the car should run fine without it. Well, let me just say that when it was unplugged, the car was like riding a bull and bounced back and forth, worse than what it is now. Could a bad eacv cause bogging or stuttering? And to check it, it needs to be between 8-15ohms? Right?

:attention :feedback:

Hmmmm, correct me if I'm wrong but if you are running the car while sitting still and hold the gas pedal at diff spots it's ok? The problem only manifests itself during driving? Have you checked the vehicle speed sensor?

You are absolutely correct. But where's the vehicle speed sensor at? I didn't know we had one.

Behind the cluster if I remember correctly, its actually apart of the cluster.

I did a cluster swap around the time I joined here, but it was out of a crx. But how exactly does the VSS work?

Im not sure

I had mine replaced in my hatch but I was a noob then and didnt really understand the problem just had it fixed at a shop..havent had a problem with my crx...

I did a cluster swap around the time I joined here, but it was out of a crx. But how exactly does the VSS work?

It allows 4 pulses of 5v to pass every rotation of the speedo cable. Check here (http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-64.jpg) GL

So the sensor is in the cluster huh? Well, it's worth a shot of swapping them and seeing if it fixes it. And is it that big blocky plastic thing on the back of the cluster that the blue connector goes into?

I think that's it. I can't remember what it looks like but it's where speedo cable plugs in. GL

Swapped clusters today with my std one and no change happened. So the VSS is good on both.

One note though, there is a hissing sound coming from around the injection manifold. It's the same sound when you try to imitate a snake hissing. I goes on for a few secs, then stops for another few seconds and then comes back. And the timing of the sound is not the same either. Is this a sign of something? I unplugged, the eacv and tps and it didn't go away so it something else around that area.

Wow dude that sucks, I thought I was on to something...
Could the noise be a cracked vacuum hose? Maybe the fuel pressure regulator?

I'm back and have news. I got an appointment with the import speacialist in town and had them do a 50 point inspection on the whole car and figure out what might be causing the problem. They came back with some odd news.

1. The clutch had been adjusted so badly that the clutch could have died on me at anytime due to the slippage it was taking. So they adjusted to spec and tighten as needed and now the clutch has like slippage point at all. I can barely move my foot about an inch before it engages. He said that the jerkiness probably is coming from the clutch and that it will need replacing soon.

2. They looked at the timing belt and found something odd. There is suppose to be a sticker or mark on it to notify other mechanics that it was changed, but they looked over the whole belt and couldn't find any marking what so ever. They also said that it was really worn down and looked almost as if the car had never had it's timing belt changed in it's 15 years of running. I'm a little amazed of this, but it just goes to show how long honda's last. :D

3. They wrote down that I'm going to have to replace the timing belt, seals for crank and cam, water pump and drive belts. They estimated this at $440 which includes parts and labor. Then the clutch replacment will be around $500-650 which includes parts and labor.

So, it looks like I'm going to have to do some good engine tune ups here soon. So do you guys think it could really be the clutch? I had my doubts, but I don't know.

Not that you've had any luck with my recommendations...
But I think you should start with the engine work. GL