Which head is which

Can anyone here tell me the difference between these heads?

D80E, D7OE, D0OE, E7TE

D80E--late 70's/early 80s 351W/302 head, 69cc chambers.

D7OE--Late 70's/early 80's 302 head, 69cc chambers

D0OE-'69-76 302/351W head, 58.2cc Chambers, the 351W version (D0OE-C or -G) had 1.84/1.54 valves and 60 cc chambers.

E7TE-80's truck head, was installed on 5.0 HO from '87-95.

Looks like the D0OE 351W heads have some similarities to a GT-40 head.

I'd still just find GT-40s, though, they can be had for 300 or less used...

I wouldnt waist the money on GT-40's. They hardly flow better than stock heads. Plus after you have all the machine work done to used heads, cleaned, match ported, valve job, new valves if needed, your looking at a $500 machine shop bill. GT-40's : $300 + Machine shop: $500 = $800. You could get some pretty decent flowing Rouch heads and be better off if you dont want to pay the price for AFR, Edelbrock, TF, ect.

IF you intend on P/P then yes, avoid GT-40's, or P's. However, if you are looking for improved airflow on a tight budget, the GT-40's flow as well as or better than any of the heads he listed. GT-40P's flow even more on the exhaust side, even with a smaller valve.

If a shop is charging you $500 for a cleanup and a valve job, find a new shop.

And they do flow a good bit better than a stock E7TE head. I don't have any specific numbers, but I've run against many a foxbody with similar mods to me, but stock E7's, and I put 3-5 carlengths on every one of them in a car that weighs 450-500 pounds more than theirs.

Not beating them on launches, either, usually even with me coming out about a carlength ahead after 2nd gear, then I just walk away thru 3rd and 4th. To me that shows I'm obviously making a good bit more power.

...I can't wait to get a Tremec and some GT-40X's :)

Well my point here is I just want to do all my homework before I buy. I am working with kind of a tight budget but I still want the best head my money can buy. Right now Im looking at edelbrock performers and the AFR 165. More than likely Ill go with the AFR's, and maybe a custom grind cam.

Fti!!

If AFR and Edelbrock are the two companies you have in mind go with the AFR's. They absolutely outflow Edel. from the bottom to the top making alot more power.

If a shop is charging you $500 for a cleanup and a valve job, find a new shop.

Cleaning and a valve job isnt the expensive part. But porting is very expensive.

If AFR and Edelbrock are the two companies you have in mind go with the AFR's. They absolutely outflow Edel. from the bottom to the top making alot more power.

i second that 351!! not to mention quality...