How to build a 383 Stroker

Ok guys, I need to know how to go about building me a 383 Stroker. Someone told me all i needed was the rods and crank out of a 400 small block and to bore it 30 over, but if I did that wouldnt I need differant heads. Yes I know others have asked about this b4 but I really want some options and ideas from more than just 1 or 2 people. Thanks Guys

youd have to bore the main journals or buy an after market crank prolly have to get a bigger balancer and have it balanced , and it depends on what cc's your heads are i forget the stroke of a 383 its something like 3.75 or that might too much i dont remember

yeah, for the price of machine work and junkyard parts that are in unknown condition, i reccomend finding a budget 383 stroker kit, that comes designed for a 350 block application, im sure you could find one on ebay for a few hundred bucks. as far as needing to swap pistons or heads for compression reasons, it depends mostly on the chamber size, engine displacement, volume above the piston to deck, and the volume added by the height of the gasket you are using. do you know the current volume of your heads combustion chamber? if so i might be able to give ya a general idea of what to look for.

you need to have your block clearanced for a 400 crank and have the 400 crank main journals turned down

Theres so many aftermarket cranks available, I would look into those instead of trying to find one from an old 400.

y when i start to build my 383 everybody else does!!!

well its not cause i told everyone that it would aggrivate you if they all started their 383 projects when you did, and stole your thunder. not at all...


no really its not...

Yea, I'm doing it on mine too... the first ever 383 v6, you will all live in fear

i saw a 305 V6 one time

ok guys i found a crank on ebay for my stroker, here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33616&item=7925197505&rd=1, heres the flex plate link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7911708808&category=33732, heres the damper link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7924471180&category=33616. Please let me know what you guys think and if it these will work, my 350 is from 68-78. Also what size rods do I need to use or will mine out of my 350 work? Thanks guys

I would really use 6" rods for a longer lasting engine

I would stay away from SCAT products. There seems to be some problems with them lately and they might be facing a law suit in the future for selling products that say made in the USA when really they come from china or somewhere over there.

well the only reason that im going to build a 383 now is because well first i was just gonna buy a crate motor but then i said fuck it why don't i just build my own

heh, I got a 8" rod for ya....



yea, i heard about scat cranks breaking, here's a link about it.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?threadid=256875

gen, thats an awsome pic in your sig...

i dont get it..

The block has to be bored .30 over to fit the 400 crank, and try to get forged pistons and rods and spray with nitrous and nothing on planet earth will catch you, besides a plane.

Okay but I do have the right stuff picked out to do the 383 correct? I'll prolly just order the stuff from summit if this scat stuff isnt any good. Will I still be able to use my factory heads, as far as I know the only thing they have had done was getting a normal head job. Also which would be better to use the rods that are in my block or go with the 6 inch rods as twdz28 said to use, and what about cam and lifters? The block is already 30 over so ill just hone it to clean it up if theres anything since it was redone about 2 years ago.

I would go with some new rods especially if you plan to beat on this engine. Camshaft depends alot on which heads and intake you plan on using, and alot on what rpm range you want the engine to work well in.

You don't have to bore the block to .030 to fit the crank, if you don't bore it, it just won't be a 383, it'll be a 378. Forged is always better, but not always neccisary. If your gonna spray it or blow it then yeah, but if not, then you probably don't have to worry about it. And just for conversation sake, I just decided that I was gonna build another 383....hahaha Really though, I pulled it out and now I'm rebuilding it....can you say AFR 215 raised runner heads, holley stealth ram, 46lb injectors, twin turbo...I say wow!!!!!!

And I say how much? haha

Okay but I do have the right stuff picked out to do the 383 correct? I'll prolly just order the stuff from summit if this scat stuff isnt any good. Will I still be able to use my factory heads, as far as I know the only thing they have had done was getting a normal head job. Also which would be better to use the rods that are in my block or go with the 6 inch rods as twdz28 said to use, and what about cam and lifters? The block is already 30 over so ill just hone it to clean it up if theres anything since it was redone about 2 years ago.


I'd use Scat stuff again.... I used a Scat forged crank in my 393(351W) stroker and had no problems with it at all(600+hp N/A on engine dyno).

Wether or not you can use stock heads depends on the piston and cam choice you go with.

I used Eagle 6.2" SBC H-rods(before they made SBF 6.2").... I think eagle makes a 6.3 SBC rod now too. There are some advanatges to the longer rod but you usually have to end up using more expensive pistons such as JE to get a set that will work reliabley with a rod over 6" in a small block stroker.

One note about using your stock heads on a small block stroker.... do realize you are now flowing enough cu for a small big block. You will absolutely be choking the crap out of your stroker motor at higher rpm's with stock small block heads.

aside from choking the engine with stock heads, make sure the chambers are big enough, and your pistons have enough of a dish to keep your compression ratio useable on the street. if you have a 9.3:1 compression from the factory, and increase displacement up to 383 without changing anything else displacement wise, youll have a estimated 11.4:1 compression, which isnt exactly octain friendly.