need urgent help

got the car started tonight, have a code 4 and 14, (crank sensor and EACV) how can i fix it?
also, it bounces at 3500, thats the highest it revs, and takes a second for it to catch and rev up, also, according to the A/F gauge its leaning out alot

dizzy?

did you replace your map sensor and your purge cutoff solonoid.....if you did then they might be bad....that could be causing your rpm problem.....also....your dizzy seems bad if your having the crank sensor problem.....if its your old dizzy....then your wiring for your MPFI is bad.....did you ensure to use a shielded wire for the MPFI wires going to your dizzy.....I used a OEM wire from my 91 Integra harness....that could be causing your problems.....if its working dizzy....then your problem lies within your wiring....did you solder and heatshrink your wires.....also check all your wiring at your ECU.....I think you forgot something.....triple check it all.

I'm not too shore about the revving,but I have some suggestions about your code 14,EACV,
try taking it off,2 bolts & cleaning the screen,
disconnect the battery 1st & the hoses have anti-freeze in them,
if that dont work,you could test it with a ohm meter,the resistance should be between 8-15,if its too high or too low,replace it,
but I had a little bit different problem,my code 14 was showing & I replaced it & cleaned it it never would go away,
I soon found out that the ait sensor & the eavc sensors's was switched,I switched them back & the idel was NICE!
good luck

i was about to mention that, the EACV and the IAT both use the same shape plug.

the green one is for the EACV, the white is for the IAT. judging from your pictures in the other thread, you have the IAT hooked up wrong and the EACV not hooked up at all.

"everytime i hear that song 'urgent' i think about that girls boobs, and covered in vomit" - carl from aqua teen hunger force

yea i switched the green and white for the IAT and got ridda that code, i have a green one on the EACV and another green one left over, it idles fine tho? i dont get it, just cuts out at 3500

got the car started tonight, have a code 4 and 14, (crank sensor and EACV) how can i fix it?
also, it bounces at 3500, thats the highest it revs, and takes a second for it to catch and rev up, also, according to the A/F gauge its leaning out alot
look its not that hard.either b10 & b12 did not get swapped correctly, or you need to repined your dizzy. you can check all this with a ohm meter.
b10 & b12 should be the white & orange wires at the dizzy.you personaly ran c1 & c2 which are bl/yellow & bl/green.
im pretty sure that is what the problem is.
also make sure you used a mpfi fuel line from the filter to the rail.

look its not that hard.either b10 & b12 did not get swapped correctly, or you need to repined your dizzy. you can check all this with a ohm meter.
b10 & b12 should be the white & orange wires at the dizzy.you personaly ran c1 & c2 which are bl/yellow & bl/green.
im pretty sure that is what the problem is.
also make sure you used a mpfi fuel line from the filter to the rail.


how come i need a multi point fuel line for the rail? i used the dpfi one with a different banjo bolt that works fine i think.

how can i tell if the wires are crossed at the dizzy? i'm using a teg dizzy i think, or a ZC one, i dunno what it is, i just asked for one that would work and thats what he gave me, C1 & C2 go onto the exhaust cam sensor correct? and i tried rotating the exhast cam sensor 180 degrees but when i mounted it back on it wouldnt go in so is there only one way to mount it?

i did re-located the b10 & b12 how it should be, would i be getting this problem if they're not making a good contact on the ECU??

these are the directions i followed off of http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html

and this is how i understood it and wrote it down. B2 pin into B10 slot, B11 pin into b12 spot. cut C1 & C2 and solder wires on and mark them.

solder B10 from ECU onto C1 from harness
solder B12 from ECU onto C2 from Harness

Cut Wires at A3 and A7, solder and lable.

C1 to Cam sensor
C2 to cam sensor

connect yellow/black from stock injectors, solder together with another wire and run onto resistor box,

connect solid yellow from DX injector to #1 (cam gear injector)
connect red from dx to #3 injector
connect A3 to #2
connect A7 to #4 rest get run to resistor box.

I just had the same problem with a sohc zc swap if thats what your doing. Just rewire the whole thing again it helps if you have a pinout sheet. mine would cut out a 3000 rpm. mine works now but i cant get rid of the engine light. But definately check the wiring once more

fixed it! the d15b2 TPS doesnt work... that and i re-did B10 and B12 to make sure they were making a connection, no more codes now, but i noticed it does cut out for a sec and slightly bog kinda when u hit the gas

you tried to use a dual point injection TPS? they dont work, they operate backwards. thats why everyone was asking if you swapped the TPS wires

mine still bogs for a sec at 3000 rpm but it doesnt stop there anymore.
did u put in a dohc or sohc???

but i noticed it does cut out for a sec and slightly bog kinda when u hit the gas

did you upgrade your fuel line? your problem sounds like a DPFI fuel line problem

mine still bogs for a sec at 3000 rpm but it doesnt stop there anymore.
did u put in a dohc or sohc???


DOHC motor

did you upgrade your fuel line? your problem sounds like a DPFI fuel line problem


Ami, i cant find an mpfi fuel line yet, whats the difference in them? but i do think thats the problem also because its running a bit lean as well.