2000 Blazer owner in need of help!!

I bought this thing in May of 2003 and already have had to put almost $6000 worth of repairs into it, let me just list them for you.
right motor mount,fuel pump,plugs and wires,3 O2 heater sensors,drivers side window motor,6 tires,upper and lower ball joints,idler arm,catalytic convertor,battery,O2 sensor ground wire,4wd actuator motor,fuses,2 alignments and 6 bottles of tylenol for myself.
Even after all of that my coolant system has a vapor leak now, the idler arm is bad again, it shakes like crazy at any speed over 45 and every bump I hit is like hitting a 2 foot deep pothole, really rough stuff. If anyone has any suggestions, comments or ideas to help with this it would be GREATLY appreciated :banghead:

Lemme guess, you had it all done at the local chvy dealer.

I would sell this truck bro.

I have no idea what is causing all o fthis but you got a lemon and you need to cut your losses.

[QUOTE=BlazerLT]Lemme guess, you had it all done at the local chvy dealer.QUOTE]

Think BlazerLT nailed right on the head. Dealers aren't fixing anything under warranty these days so when they get a paying customer/sucker in they ream him out real good. The later Blazers are pretty good machines normally, some usual recurring defects, but yours sure sounds like a haunted machine.

well with the exception of a few major things I did most of the repairs myself with none of them coming back to haunt me, with the exception of the idler arm and the shaking which I will have taken care of (hopefully) come monday. Idler arm replacement and full suspension inspection, I requested that they let me be under the thing with the tech and they dont have a problem with that, anything else that might be causing the ride issue will with any luck be found, course I'm taking the tech on a drive to let him expierance it himself! and NO im not having this done by the dealer, I'm fed up with those jerk-offs, this shop specializes in truck/suv repairs.I will post my findings and results monday night. As for trading it back...HA...sorry i'm not going to be upside down on another truck, fix what i got and save up a few more bucks, pay it down and then get myself a NEW Blazer.As much as I wanted to put some mods( well, more than some) on this Blazer that seems to be put on the back burner for awhile.

Don't be a fool and dig yourself deeper just because you dug a hole already.

If the problem still persists, trade it away.

Don't be the village idiot and just keep on dumping money in just because "you spent this much all ready" crap.

A smart man knows when to walk.

Also, why did you replace all these sensors? Did you have trouble codes saying to replace them?

Did you just replace them because you thought they would fix the problem?

first off thats kinda harsh man about the whole fool thing, anyways, yes it was all codes from the SES light bein on then after the 3rd one was replaced came on again they found the ground wire was messed up and causing it to short therefore causing O2 failures and the SES light coming on. As far as the whole trading in thing between mortgage payments on a new house I just built, 3 yr old daughter and a wife that refuses to budge on the issue of trading it in what would you do?
Add on to this post:
I have contacted a Lemon Law hotline which got me in touch with a Law firm that deals with nothing but these sort of cases. Hopefully by Tuesday I should have some info and will post. If anyone else is in this type of situation go to lemonhelpers.com and fill out the free case review they have there, it wont cost you a dime to have them review and try your case!

AS for the 2 foot deep pothole, have you mechanic check your tortion arm mounts in the back between the frame rails. Simple fix.

first off thats kinda harsh man about the whole fool thing, anyways, yes it was all codes from the SES light bein on then after the 3rd one was replaced came on again they found the ground wire was messed up and causing it to short therefore causing O2 failures and the SES light coming on. As far as the whole trading in thing between mortgage payments on a new house I just built, 3 yr old daughter and a wife that refuses to budge on the issue of trading it in what would you do?
Add on to this post:
I have contacted a Lemon Law hotline which got me in touch with a Law firm that deals with nothing but these sort of cases. Hopefully by Tuesday I should have some info and will post. If anyone else is in this type of situation go to lemonhelpers.com and fill out the free case review they have there, it wont cost you a dime to have them review and try your case!

My comments were not to be taken as a personal insult, but you do need to to have someone bring you to reality a bit.

If problems still persist after this repair, TRADE IT IN for another model, not a new one, just something else.

Don't just keep pouring money into it. You could have purchased an excellent used vehicle by now.

With your other payments you should also be more financially sharp and realise that you are spending money on something that you will not be able to recover.

IF IT PERSISTS, walk away and ditch the, "I will get this thing running properly no matter how much it takes.

Well as it stands the shop said it rides like crap and they cant figure out why, took it to 2 gm dealers and they said" its a Blazer its supposed to ride like that" whatever one dealer said he wanted to start hanging parts like $150 for putting it on the rack and tightning everything down and another $400 for shcocks plus hes talking about u-joints and all kinds of crap I told him to shove it, exact words mind you and the other dealer said I have too aggressive of a tire and I should just try to change out the clutch fan, again told him to get lost, clutch fan is fine and I'm only running Dayton Timberline L/T's not swamppers so heres where it stands as far as putting anymore money into it, not gonna happen, I,m gonna ride this thing till she breaks and in about 6 months when I get it to where I owe about $5000 on it I'm going to a Subaru dealer and getting rid of this thing GM can kiss my @$$ as far as I'm concerned.

Sounds like you have some dealers trying to screw you.

Thats exactly my feeling so as I said before to hell with GM and thier lame excuses if this lemon thing goes thru then they can just pucker up.
either way I have already vowed to shun anything made by them as they have already proven what kind of crap they just shovel out to the consumer and we just sucker up and buy it, not to mention thier so-called " top quality service and support" HAH, my backside. As for them telling me " oh dont worry thats just how a Blazer is" and " your tires are too aggressive" thats a load of crap and they know it. if thats how a Blazer is than dont ya think they should have taken the time to FIX IT so it isnt like that anymore?

After reading your posts and in particular, the idler arm was replaced and it now needs replacing again. You also mentioned that you had it aligned 2 times.
Was this at the dealer?
Did you try a shop that does 4 wheel alignment?
I'm wondering if this Blazer may have been in an accident at one time. A 4 wheel alignment will show up any discrepencies in the geometry of the tracking.

Lots of this work should have been covered under warranty.

Never have I heard of all these problems with one vehicle.

After cooling off a little, I tried something to see what would happen. Yesterday as the traffic was slow like usual on a friday, I noticed while just driving slow at like idle speed theres somewhat of a shimmy from side to side almost like a lift and shift type feel, Then the next morning I tried it on purpose on my way home and it did the same thing. Could that possibly be caused from say "dead shocks" or a off center rotor?
No it hasnt been in any kind of accident, before I bought it I had run a carfax report on it and only owner before me was a rental company in New Jersey.

Dude, this is getting a little weird.

I think you are actually looking for stuff to fix on it.

whatever ,obviously no helpful people in this forum, I'm looking for answers not flak.

I bought this thing in May of 2003 and already have had to put almost $6000 worth of repairs into it, let me just list them for you.
right motor mount,fuel pump,plugs and wires,3 O2 heater sensors,drivers side window motor,6 tires,upper and lower ball joints,idler arm,catalytic convertor,battery,O2 sensor ground wire,4wd actuator motor,fuses,2 alignments and 6 bottles of tylenol for myself.
Even after all of that my coolant system has a vapor leak now, the idler arm is bad again, it shakes like crazy at any speed over 45 and every bump I hit is like hitting a 2 foot deep pothole, really rough stuff. If anyone has any suggestions, comments or ideas to help with this it would be GREATLY appreciated :banghead:

read what you have replaced above.

I think you a little shell shocked.

not shell shocked at all. simply want to resolve this so it isnt a problem anymore and I can move on to other matters, not to mention I want to find answers not " I dont know" or "thats just how a Blazer rides" or whatever excuse or half-assed answer that can be thrown my way. Looking for a solution to the problem not just forget its there and go on with life.

By your description, you said there is a side to side shimmy.
Here's a thought and it won't cost you a dime and is sometimes overlooked.
If one tire or more has a belt seperation, it will create a high spot on the tread. As the wheel rotates and the high spot is in contact with the ground, it raises the height of the vehicle and then as it continues to rotate the height then goes down.
I am sure you can see how this can cause the side to side shimmy. Jack each wheel up and rotate it and feel the tread as it is rotating.

If you lived close by, I would be more than happy to have you bring it on a weekend to my shop and check it over for I sympathize with your situation. Your between a rock and a hard place, been there myself.

finnaly someone who isnt so critical of others. I have done alot of reaserch over the past few days and the one thing that I am told the most is tires. Ya they may be new but that doesn't matter. It was freezing this morning so I checked the tire pressure ( cold psi) and found my fronts at 20/22 and rears at 28/30. so i went and filled all to 35. ride smotthed out a noticable difference but the full body shake and bump/crack vibration still hard. the vibration grows as speed increases and it goes thru dash,doors,side view mirrors, and under my seat. now it sometimes pulses which after confering with a few more knowledgable friends of mine they said more than one tire could be bad, suggested rotating front to back and see if the vibrations change/move and then go from there narrowing down what it could possibly be. As far as living closer, WI is a long ways from PA but I really do appreciate the generous offer.

Just my 2 cents. Have you checked your tires? Sounds like a busted steel belt.

Just my 2 cents. Have you checked your tires? Sounds like a busted steel belt.


Totally agree, this is what it sounds like. Went through this myself a year ago; had truck checked out by everyone, and everyone kept saying the tires were at fault. I didn't believe that however, cuz the Goodyear Wrangler RT/S tires only had 35K miles and had plenty of tread left.

Changed tires out, truck rides great. End result, I will NEVER go back to a Goodyear tire, 2 1/2yrs old, 35K miles and very well taken care of - and that's what I get.