Camaro will not start or crank. Please help.

Put key in, turn to run position and get power to headlights, interior, what sounds like the fuel pump etc etc. After about 10 seconds abs light and security light (which is solid, not blinking) turn off.

Turn key forward, ABS light comes back on, but no start.

Car had an alarm aftermarket. I just finished pulling it out. All wires are as they should be. With alarm out, exact same symptoms.

Don't think it is VATS since security light goes off. Also If I disconnect the VATS wiring under the column the security light blinks as it should. Tested the key it is a number 4 which has a acceptable range of resistance from 850-942 I tested the wires at the harness and got a 883 which tells me the wires are good. The blinking light tells me the VATS module should be good.

Cleaned plenty of corosion off of the positive terminal of the Neverstart.

Battery, alt, and starter are less than two weeks old.

If there is a starter relay I can not find it.

Tried starting in neutral also.

Also tried starting with a battery booster. One of the big ones on wheels, nothing happened. I can't get to the starter to try and arc it since all my jackstands are on my vette for my tranny swap.

Had key tested at dealership they said it was a number 4. I tested it at my VATS harness and got an acceptable reading according to the VATS chart.

Well, if you indeed checked things out and all is OK with the VATS then you have something else going on here. Have you verified that you have 12v on the yellow wire (or might be purple) under the dash while cranking?

no i haven't what is the problem if i don't have power there.

Try grounding terminal a - B while cranking the ignition. If your fans don't click on and your Service engine doesn't flash its a PCM problem

Well, if you indeed checked things out and all is OK with the VATS then you have something else going on here. Have you verified that you have 12v on the yellow wire (or might be purple) under the dash while cranking?
The most common would be the ignition switch. The other would be that you still have the starter kill relay in there somewhere. Also, there is usually 2 12v power wires that go into the colom. You should have one that is red and another maybe red with a white stripe. They should always show constant power but since you say that everything else comes on normal when you turn it on, I'd rule that out.

your positive battery cable is shot, get a new one. im 80 percent sure thats your problem, especially if you had to clean corrosion away from the terminal, it probly got down in the cable, and has damaged the wire inside the insulation. get a new battery, and a new positive battery cable, and the problem will probly be fixed.

your positive battery cable is shot, get a new one. im 80 percent sure thats your problem, especially if you had to clean corrosion away from the terminal, it probly got down in the cable, and has damaged the wire inside the insulation. get a new battery, and a new positive battery cable, and the problem will probly be fixed.


I cut open the battery cables and the part that holds in the battery bolt. There was tons of corrosion. I got it all off. no broken or eaten wires. I even cut back the cable to the starter. Even tried bypassing the cable direct from the batt. almost to teh starter. no luck. trying ignition now.



how will I know if ignition is busted? any signs?

With the ignition in the run position you should have power to the underhood Fuse box.. If you have a test light I would make sure your getting power there first.

With the ignition in the run position you should have power to the underhood Fuse box.. If you have a test light I would make sure your getting power there first.


Okay that was good advice. Still won't start. Everything in the fuse box has power when in run position. That made me think. So tested the fuse with my test light for the "crank" The 3 amp fuse. In run position it is not on. Turn the key to "start" and it lit up. So Wouldn't that mean my ignition switch is good?

If your getting power to under hood not interior fuses then yes your ignition switch is good.

If your getting power to under hood not interior fuses then yes your ignition switch is good.



Yes I am getting power under hood, I tested the interior ones also. They were all fine.

well, i know you cleaned it, but i still suggest replacing the battery cable. how was it that you tried to bypass the positive cable??? what did you use for a jumper?

have you shorted the starter with a screwdriver to see if it turns over?

If there is a starter relay I can not find it.


i think it's behind the driver's side kick panel below the dash, atleast it was on 3rd gens.

if you can find it, i'd jump it to see if the engine cranks. if the engine does crank then your problem is either ignition switch or VATS related. if it doesn't, then i dunno what to tell ya

well, i know you cleaned it, but i still suggest replacing the battery cable. how was it that you tried to bypass the positive cable??? what did you use for a jumper?



I just got under the car again and tested the big cable that runs from the battery to the starter with my test light. It tested good.

I'm kinda worried about getting under the car and doing the screwdriver thing. I would be worried it would fall off the jackstands

If the Starter is only 2 weeks old. I would just make sure that there is 12 Volts of power to it with volt meter. And next I would make sure that the Block ground strap to the passenger side of the block is tight with no rust or scales and then measure the ohms from battery to the ground

Okay here's what My neighbor and I did. He had a push start button with two alligator style clips. Big ones. Hooked to up to the terminal on the starter where the purple wire runs. The one that goes hot when you turn to the start position. Then hooked the other alligator to the battery. Hit the button and nothing. We tested the device too. Guess it's a bad starter. Gonna check the ground though just to be sure.

yup, sounds like a bad starter, but also, a test light isnt a really good tool for diagnosing this, as you may be getting 12 volts to the starter, but you need amps, and a corroded cable will transferr the volts, but not enough amps to turn the starter. i dunno, if it were me, id still do the cable, seeing as it has acid damage, and is now cut open anyway, and will quickly need to be replaced anyway. and then look to replace the starter. the cable should be 30-50 bucks, certainly alot less than a new starter. but thats just me.

yup, sounds like a bad starter, but also, a test light isnt a really good tool for diagnosing this, as you may be getting 12 volts to the starter, but you need amps, and a corroded cable will transferr the volts, but not enough amps to turn the starter. i dunno, if it were me, id still do the cable, seeing as it has acid damage, and is now cut open anyway, and will quickly need to be replaced anyway. and then look to replace the starter. the cable should be 30-50 bucks, certainly alot less than a new starter. but thats just me.



oh i am going to replace the cable tomorrow morning and the starter. I jumped directly from the battery though and got nothing, not even fast clicking.

I had a problem when with my camaro like this before. They thought it was electric. I had an aftermarket alarm with a start kill on it, and they told me something about the factory start kill kicking in some how. I am not clear on exactly what happened, but they ended up soldering a resistor to my ignition wires, they found the resistance by checking my keys, that little chip on the key I mean. I don't know alot about cars but maybe this will be helpful possibly, or igve you an idea.

I had a problem when with my camaro like this before. They thought it was electric. I had an aftermarket alarm with a start kill on it, and they told me something about the factory start kill kicking in some how. I am not clear on exactly what happened, but they ended up soldering a resistor to my ignition wires, they found the resistance by checking my keys, that little chip on the key I mean. I don't know alot about cars but maybe this will be helpful possibly, or igve you an idea.



nope that's not it. The purple wire runs from the ignition to the starter and engages the starter. My purple wire has power at the starter when put to the "Start" position. It wouldn't make it that far if the VATS or and aftermarket alarm with starter interupt was kicking in.