new air conditioning compressor... now what do i do?

Ok, I haven't quite replaced my air conditioning compressor yet. My car has been making some racket for a few weeks and I couldn't figure out what it was. Finally a few days ago, the belt broke. I got the car up on the hoist and found that the air conditioning pulley seized up. Now I have the old air conditioning compressor out of the car. I ordered a new one and waiting for it to be delivered. (I can't believe none of the local auto places carried it.) But when I get it in the mail, I am going to put it back in. But I know there are some things I have to do before turning it on. I know the system has to be evacuated and freon has to be added then. I know I can't do that part by myself and I am going to take it to a local shop to have that part done. But what I am wondering is if there is any chance I will do any damage driving it over to them after I install the AC compressor without any freon in it. The car seems to turn on the AC when you least expect it. I understand it turns it on when the air is on and when you turn on the defrosters. I just figure I will leave the whole climate control off so there is no chance the air turns on. But still the pulley is turning. So as long as the air doesn't turn on, the clutch will never engage and it doesn't seem like I will do any damage driving it to wherever I need to get the freon filled.
Or is there a chance I could do some damage? If there is, then I'll have it towed to the place to fill the air.

Plus, is there anything else I should be cautious about or any tips about putting it back in? (FYI... Telling me to take it to a professional to have the compressor installed won't help. That's not an option unless you really sound like you know what you are talking about and you can convince me that the average auto tech cannot do it.)

Thanks for your input.

David

The noise you heard may have been the compressor failing internally. If this is the case there could be debris in the system from the old compressor. An a/c shop would inspect the system and flush it to remove any contamination in the system from the old compressor. You may also have to replace the accumulator and the orifice valve. Running a new compressor without knowing the system is perfectly clean is a real gamble, the new compressor could be ruined in a short time and may not even be covered by a warranty if the system is not flushed. Keep us posted, this appears to be a common Aurora failure. PS: you are in no danger running the car over to a shop, once the pressure is out of the system the low pressure sensor will keep the new compressor from being activated.

Is a system being flush and being evacuated the same thing? I am getting a new accumulator also. The air conditioner has no warranty on it unless I replace the accumulator at the same time. But I am not sure about replacing the orifice valve. What is that? Is that were the freon is put in the system? But I guess the last part of your post answers my biggest question. At least after I put in the new compressor, I can drive the car without any freon in it with no fear of messing up the new compressor.

The flush is not the same as evac and fill with R-134. The orifice valve is like a $2.00 part and should be inspected and replaced. It is located in the evaporator inlet. There is a ton of generic d.i.y. info out on the net, read up on the procedures and decide what is best. Here is just one example:

http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_auto_air_conditioning/article/0,2021,DIY_13674_2276710,00.html

Keep in mind the oil level in the system is critical as far as total amount. If you don't flush the system you will have to estimate how much oil is still in the system, this can effect cooling and/or compressor life if too much or too little. Just more food for thought, best of luck.

I just found out there is a service part available so the a/c system can be used without flushing it out. The new liquid line service part contains an orifice valve and an in-line filter to collect any debris from the old compressor. The old orifice must be removed and not used with the new part. The Delco number for the service part with filter is 15-30752. Around $30 for the part.

Is a system being flush and being evacuated the same thing? I am getting a new accumulator also. The air conditioner has no warranty on it unless I replace the accumulator at the same time. But I am not sure about replacing the orifice valve. What is that? Is that were the freon is put in the system? But I guess the last part of your post answers my biggest question. At least after I put in the new compressor, I can drive the car without any freon in it with no fear of messing up the new compressor.

:2cents:When the ASE tech sees the oriface tube, that will determine if your compressor has failed. Yes, it is recommended that you change the receiver dryer (or accummulator) when you change-out the compressor.
Compressor oil is needed (ounces) in the compressor as well as freon 1995-up 134a to get you going again. Go to an AC shop.

The compressor was definitely bad. The pulley is completely seezed up. To be honest, I found a shop that just installed everything for $300. I just got it back today and it is working perfect (so far. We will see what it is working like in a few weeks.)

The compressor was definitely bad. The pulley is completely seezed up. To be honest, I found a shop that just installed everything for $300. I just got it back today and it is working perfect (so far. We will see what it is working like in a few weeks.)

\
I changed my compressor today. Not exactly what I would call a pleasant job, however it can be done at home if your motiviated to save some $$$. Access to a vacuum pump is required to prepare for the recharge after the system is opened. The compressor comes out the passenger side wheel housing, lot's-o-fun!

Hello all,

I just replaced my AC compressor with a rebuilt unit because I found that the pulley bearing was bad as I was replacing the belt.

The first time I started the car post repair I noticed the "Service Engine" light was on. Since I haven't had the AC system flushed and charged yet, is it likely that the lack of pressure in the system could cause this light to come on, or, is it more likely that I knocked off a wire / damaged something during the repair?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hello all,

I just replaced my AC compressor with a rebuilt unit because I found that the pulley bearing was bad as I was replacing the belt.

The first time I started the car post repair I noticed the "Service Engine" light was on. Since I haven't had the AC system flushed and charged yet, is it likely that the lack of pressure in the system could cause this light to come on, or, is it more likely that I knocked off a wire / damaged something during the repair?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

:2cents:Check engine light has nothing to do with the AC. Period!

Thanks Rebel,

I didn't think so either. However, when I replaced the compressor, I noticed two sets of wires. One on the side, which presumably tells the clutch when to engage.

The other on the back (the side away from the pulley), which seems to be tied to the refrigerant system. Since I couldn't figure out the purpose for this other set of wires, I thought that there was an outside chance the check engine light and lack of refrigerant were connected.

Separately, do you know where the oriface tube and receiver dryer are located on a '95?

Thanks again

There is a PCM error code (Check Engine Light) for the low
AC pressure switch. So yes, if you do not have the AC
charged, that could be why you have a check engine light
on. The AC clutch control is routed through the PCM so
the PCM can properly adjust for engine loading. Also,
the PCM has to be able to disengage the AC clutch when a
full-throttle is sensed, to allow for more power.

GuMan

Yes GuMan is right...Cadys have the sensor for the AC.
It depends on the car. Guman I'll have some info on the Trunk release of the info you emailed me:-). The tech has the info and he'll look at the Aurora this week. :smokin: