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Wheel Stud Replacement

09-21-2004, 09:42 PM
figured i would throw up some of my DIYs on here, just so they are easier to access. i am the DIY mod at rdtib, so if any of you guys would like for me to do a little write up on something, just ask. im always working on the car anyway. im including with my DIYs, comments that other members have already made on the diy.

most of us have, or will break or strip a wheel stud somewhere along the lines. when i first had to replace one, i waited a couple months and eventually got a shop to do it. the guy at the shop let me look at how they did it, and i almost crapped my pants knowing that i was paying someone else 50 bucks to do something that easy. so if you've never done it before, and happen to break a stud, do it yourself and save 50 bux towards something else.

what you need:

1. regular sized socket wrench
2. 17mm socket
3. whatever you normally use to get the lugs off(i have a torque wrench i use, but the wrench with the spare works fine)
4. hammer
5. a extra lug you dont care about, or a nut that will screw completely down on the stud without hitting the wheels.
6. new stud. its about 1.70 at hyundai parts. you may want to pick up another lug too, as one will get damaged(but is still perfectly useable) if you cant find a appropriate nut. a lug/stud pack is like 4 bucks i think.
7. whatever beer you like, just dont make it corona, that crap tastes like rat piss. :wink:


1. Remove wheel

2. Remove the Caliper from the knuckle. you do not need to remove the bolts that hold the actual caliper together, just the ones that hold it to the knuckle. i pointed to the one on top that you need to remove, just find the other one on the bottom and take that one off too.

3. if the rotor will slide off easily, then take it off. it will just get in the way if its bobbling around everywhere. if it doesnt come off, dont worry, you will just have to reach around it a tad bit more. mine slid off fine, because i put zinc coated rotors on, and because i sprayed some caliper paint on the hub.

4. rotate the hub so that the damaged stud is not in front of the cover.

5. hammer backwards until it pops out. it shouldnt be too hard to get out, even if you do live where the roads are salted. new stud vs. old stud

6. stick the new stud through the hole and hold it in place with your hand. screw on whatever lug you dont care about as much as you can with your hand. then screw it down enough so you can get the lug on it with the wheel and rotor on(you will see it start pushing the top of the lug up). i wrapped the hammer with a rag, and then put it underneath one of the other studs to keep the thing from spinning(be careful not to damage the threads though).

7. put the rotor back on if you took it off, bolt the caliper back down to the knuckle after sliding it over the rotor, and put the wheel back on. tighten down all the lugs as much as you can(so that the wheel doesnt move, lower the car enough so that the wheel wont spin, and completely tighten them. after a couple days of driving, make sure the lug on the stud that you repaired is still on tightly. yeah, i need to get another lug.

---------------COMMENTS POST--------------------


01roller - i just did this the other day.....reall easy.
the only thing i removed was the wheel, hammered out the stud with a mallet, reached into the hat (with my skinny hand) and pulled out the old stud and and put the new stud in and torqued it on. ...... so simpo


javageek - Nice! I didn't realize it was that easy!


majikTib - aww.. Tibby... did you do this for me?

makes me wanna get my tools and go do it right now... but it's raining at the moment and I don't have a garage wonderful tennessee weather

So tell me, how easy is it to remove your rotors? Just curious for when I get my new drilled/slotted ones. Just remove the brake caliper and pull? Any tools I could use to help? (kro-bar?)

Also, when installing new rotors, would it be best to apply grease anywhere, or does it just pop on and that's all there is to it? What rotors do you have?


javageek - Don't forget the two screws.


tibby01 - well, i had to change it out. there is this bumpy back road i fly through every day, and it kinda scares me knowing that i only have three lugs holding my wheel on. i thought at first you didnt know how to take it off, and while you do, i realized there still are A LOT of people who dont know how easy it is. so i figured id snap some pictures while i was doing it, seeing as how i mod the DIY section and havent made a DIY yet...lol

the amount of salt they put on the roads in the winter determines how easy your rotors are to get off. here in MD, they dump piles of salt down as soon as they see a spec of white falling from the sky. check out this...towaards the bottom.


when you put the new rotors on, i would spray some kind of paint on the hub to prevent rusting after scrapping it with a wire brush. make sure the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on are lubed up properly too, you may get some squeking if they arent.


majikTib - I just saw this... kinda scares me on what to expect... We don't get much snow, and I don't take my car on the salted roads, so hopefully it won't be that bad. Just changed my front pads and saw rust on the rotors, but didn't check to see how easy they'd come off. When the dealership changes my studs, should I ask if they can pry the rotors off and put them back on, just so they aren't so bad when I change them?



snoopdog01 - LOL, this is crazy. I just posted about this and Tibby01 has done a diy. Thanks alot, I hope this is the problem.


I guess someone should mention that this DIY can't be done with captive rotors. The reason is because you have to have a machine to press the rotors off. I got two studs replaced today for $60+tax. Could have done it myself. Darn captive rotors.

09-22-2004, 08:28 PM
Real nice write up. Keep them coming.

TS out

03-28-2007, 07:51 AM
Another type of stud issue:
1993 Isuzu Rodeo Front Driver's Side:
My stud spun in the hole.
Evidently the serrations on the stud gave way.
The lug nut was about 3 threads from the rim.
Could not secure the head of the stud from spinning.
Could not take caliper off because the tire was in the way.
Could not remove rotor and tire because caliper could not be removed.
Guy at the garage said it would be $200 plus to fix.
SOOOO, after much contemplation I came up with the following....
I bought a Dremel tool and 2 Tungsten cutters.
I took me about an hour to groove out 2 sides of the lug nut.
FINALLY, the nut came off and I could take the other lugs off.
Tire came OFF!
The stud HAS to be cut off to remove because there is not enough clearance to pull it through from the backside. The rotor is a 2-piece construction and I decided I would not get into pulling it apart and not replace the stud.
YOU MUST cut off and remove the stud. If the stud is left in the rotor loose it would cause sever damage to the caliper, as it would "catch" on the caliper.
When cutting the stud, use the "Metal" Dremel disc and cut as close to the rotor surface without cutting into the rotor surface. It has to be as close as possible or the stud head will not have enough clearance on the backside to be pulled out.

Bottom line:
I spent about $70 and removed the tire.
I did not replace the stud.... itís a 1993 not a beauty contestant hopeful.
I do not feel it poses a significant safety risk.
Maybe not the best way but it's about all I could come up with.
I hope this will help someone or give him or her a better idea on how to deal with this issue.

I wanted to upload some pictures but I am computer challenged. I couldn't figure it out.
Good Luck,

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