Swapping 2.5L for 2.2L

A friend of mine wants to put a 2.2L 1989 Dodge Shadow into a 2.5L 1990 Dodge Caravan. It looks like it will fit o.k., but he is concerned about the fuel delivery. He has been told that the 2.5L will supply too much fuel for the 2.2L. Does anyone think that this is a problem?? Maybe just put the computer from the 2.2L into the 2.5L and that will do it?? ..........Is there anything else that we should be aware of before we attempt the swap?? I know he wants to replace the rear main seal while its out, which I feel would be a good idea, won't get a better chance again.

Why does he want to do this?

Well it is because the 2.5L is a head gasket blower. It has had 3 put in it and he thinks that it is gone again and wants to be rid of this problem.He'll probably sacrifice some power, but, this new engine does sound quieter and has fewer miles on it.

I was the original owner of this car and I tried get him to not buy it , but, he was bound and determined he was going to. It had been a pretty good van except for the head gasket problem. I have posted on this previously if you care to look it up.I guess that you need to warm up the engine then retorque which I did not realize at the time.

The 2.2 is a head gasket blower as well. You must retorque the head when it's the same temperature as the block, it doesn't matter what the temperature is, just so as long as both are the same.

These are good engines if you take care of them and maintain them properly.

So what your saying is that it doesn't matter if you warm the engine up and retorque?? I think that it may help,but, I'm no expert by any means. If you want to read the post on the head gasket I'll try to supply a link, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=238371&highlight=head+gasket+merry-go-round , this may shed some light on this particular problem?? Anyway thanks for the interest. Toni.

I did a Head Gasket change on 86 Lebaron GTS Turbo I engine shortly after I bought it and about 1 year after the previous owner had the job done. First thing I found is when removing the Head was the bolts were broke free with a 3/8's ratchet, very easily I might add. After getting a new head gasket the parts man said the bolts were "Torque to yield" and had to be replaced so for the extra 15 bucks I bought a new set (TRW). When comparing them to the old ones I can see why they were loose, they were streched longer than the new bolts and some were to the point of the threads being stretched out which explained why they were loose on the head, most likely they were reused. The new bolts should be lubricated with oil (After the block threads are cleaned with a Bottoming Tap) and the torque sequence is started in the middle of the Head and work towards the outside (As normal) and torque to 45 ft-lbs then 65 ft-lbs, then wait a few minutes and torque to 65 ft-lbs again, then turn the bolts 90 degrees, then set the torque wrench to 90 ft-lbs and check each bolt for movement, if done correctly none of the bolts will move at the 90 ft-lbs setting. And I never retorqued the Head afterwards. That was 5 years ago and the Engine still runs.

The only time I deviated on this procedure is on my son's 89 Daytona Shelby 2.5 TI engine because there are plans in the future to use more boost than stock with a different Turbo. On that Head Gasket change, ARP Head Studs were acquired for the engine and they have a different torquing procedure for them but a lot better piece of mind due to their almost bulletproof design.

The 2.2L and the 2.5L for the 1989 model year and up were the same block they just had different heads. They weren't head gasket blowers, if you had head gasket problems then that was your fault. My first 89 GTC didn't blow the head gasket until just over 140,000 miles. The problem is that a lot of people reuse the head bolts and you have to replace them everytime.

As for your question, you're going to just want to swap everything from under the hood of the donor car. However, I would just stick with the 2.5L and fix it right.

Fare enough but I agree with the other posts, done right ( with new head bolt ) the head gasket should work fine last a long time, changed one on the 89 Spirit 2.5 I drive, no problems, one thing they did not mention ( and I did not take the time to follow your link to see if you had ) you will need to have the head checked to make sure it is not warped, get a repair manual and it will show you how to ..... if you go with the swap, you may need the computer for the 2.2, as far as fuel deliver, check the fuel pressure specks, Chrysler changed sometime during the life of the fuel injected 2.2/2.5

After the first time that I changed the head gasket I wanted to make sure that it was right prior to the sale of it. So I bought a complete head gasket kit (I think it was a Felpro set with new bolts) from my local NAPA store and did definitely check the head for warpage with a straightedge from the machine shop where I work, followed the Chilton's manual on the torque sequence- 25,45,65 ft.lbs and then a 1/4 turn and your done.I felt at that time that it was right......... I think the poster that recommended that the engine be warmed up was "slantsixness". THis advice seemed to be right to me. But, of course this was after I already had the gasket installed.

Anyway getting back to the matter at hand. The general consensus seems to be to remove as much of the hardware as possible from the donor car to ensure a properly running "patient". This would also seem right. Thanks for the help guys, Toni.

I'm in the process of doing a headgasket in a 93 spirt. I had the head shaved at my local machine shop 50 dollars. I been told its a waste of time replacing the head gasket unless you mill the head.

im not to sure but u might want to make sure the fuel pump is not bigger in the 2.5 then the 2.2..that might cause some problems with fuel delivery also. thanks

im not to sure but u might want to make sure the fuel pump is not bigger in the 2.5 then the 2.2..that might cause some problems with fuel delivery also. thanks
That's funny.

Who Fan- I feel that if the head is flat to have the head milled would be a waste of money. Of course, I guess that it might ensure that flat ness would be guaranteed.

Brandon 0133- I guess that's something I hadn't considered, but, I don't think that with that small of an engine difference, it wouldn't really matter all that much. Maybe that's what Bleed Dodge finds amusing?????
I think rwood13 had a good idea in that to check the fuel specs. to see if there is any appreciable difference.

Toni.