valve springs and camshaft ?'s...
b18 ls
09-16-2004, 12:41 PM
I have a set of crower 62403-2 cams on the way. Are the 68181 valve springs any good for these camshafts? Do I need to use High presure springs?..............fISH
CivicSpoon
09-16-2004, 12:59 PM
On their website it says those are the right ones to use with those cams, so I don't see why they wouldn't be good.
Oops I see what you're saying now, sorry about that; I don't know.
Oops I see what you're saying now, sorry about that; I don't know.
b18 ls
09-16-2004, 08:28 PM
With all the Integras on this site, you mean to tell me, no one has upgraded there non vtec engine with Crower cams. I know Boostedk20 has. If your there, will the 68181 valves work on those cams, or should I go with high compression valves?
boosted k20
09-17-2004, 07:33 PM
u mean the valve springs right not the valves? r those the ones recommended by CROWER for the 62403 and 62404's? i forgot the part number but they are the orange look n springs right? those are a dual valve spring setup and those r what i have in my car right now. i also went and got the CROWER titanium retainers as well, u should look into it. it's lighter than the stock ones.
i finally installed everything in my car yesturday. everything went smooth and easy but when it came time to remove and install the valve springs, thats where things took a while. i started to do the work at my friends shop at 10 am and i finished installing all the springs by 11 pm!!!!!! (i was working on some other cars too during the day and was waiting for people to help me compress the springs/install the keepers) i finished up everything the next morning. Let me remind u that i installed the springs with the head still on the car. i used compressed air to keep the valves up in the cylinder. removing the springs were easy but installing them was pretty rough. i had to make my own version of the snap on valve spring compressor tool cuz i didnt feel like spend n $120 bucks on it. if u wanna know what it looks like, heres a link http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/valvespring
mine looks almost like the one this guy made but a little different. i would highly recommend u buying this tool. mine didnt work too well and u really need two people to do this job. one to compress the spring and one to put the keepers in.
but if ur gonna do the install by urself then get one of these tools. also if ur do n it with the head still on the car like me then ur gonna need to have some way to keep the valves up. compressed air is the best method. but if ur taking it to a machine shop to do then u have nothing to worry about.
so the next day i started the car up. started up on the first crank. it sounded pretty mean when it started. u could hear a slight overlap but not too much. i had a problem though. i had the car idling for about 20 min's to break the cams in (i was told that i shoulda held the rpm's at 1500 rpm during the break n process, but this information came too late for me. but letting it idle at around 700-750 rpms didnt hurt anything). i gave a quick snap of the throttle to get the revs up to about 2K rpm's and quickly let off the throttle. the car went really low in the rpms after that and stalled out. i started it again and did the same thing but slowly let off the throttle. the car felt like it was gonna die but it didnt. it needs some tuning. i just baught a B&M FPR so im gonna raise the fuel pressure and tune it from there with my SAFC. i might also raise the idle another 100 rpm's and advance the timing to about 18 degrees. it should solve the problem. but i took it for a drive to the paint shop to get the whole car painted over (some chick hit me so i need to get it painted) and it drove fine. i didnt rev past 3K but when i get the car back on monday or tuesday i'll open it up. i wanna see how much it's gonna pull at around 3-7K rpm's.
let us know how ur install went b18ls
i finally installed everything in my car yesturday. everything went smooth and easy but when it came time to remove and install the valve springs, thats where things took a while. i started to do the work at my friends shop at 10 am and i finished installing all the springs by 11 pm!!!!!! (i was working on some other cars too during the day and was waiting for people to help me compress the springs/install the keepers) i finished up everything the next morning. Let me remind u that i installed the springs with the head still on the car. i used compressed air to keep the valves up in the cylinder. removing the springs were easy but installing them was pretty rough. i had to make my own version of the snap on valve spring compressor tool cuz i didnt feel like spend n $120 bucks on it. if u wanna know what it looks like, heres a link http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/valvespring
mine looks almost like the one this guy made but a little different. i would highly recommend u buying this tool. mine didnt work too well and u really need two people to do this job. one to compress the spring and one to put the keepers in.
but if ur gonna do the install by urself then get one of these tools. also if ur do n it with the head still on the car like me then ur gonna need to have some way to keep the valves up. compressed air is the best method. but if ur taking it to a machine shop to do then u have nothing to worry about.
so the next day i started the car up. started up on the first crank. it sounded pretty mean when it started. u could hear a slight overlap but not too much. i had a problem though. i had the car idling for about 20 min's to break the cams in (i was told that i shoulda held the rpm's at 1500 rpm during the break n process, but this information came too late for me. but letting it idle at around 700-750 rpms didnt hurt anything). i gave a quick snap of the throttle to get the revs up to about 2K rpm's and quickly let off the throttle. the car went really low in the rpms after that and stalled out. i started it again and did the same thing but slowly let off the throttle. the car felt like it was gonna die but it didnt. it needs some tuning. i just baught a B&M FPR so im gonna raise the fuel pressure and tune it from there with my SAFC. i might also raise the idle another 100 rpm's and advance the timing to about 18 degrees. it should solve the problem. but i took it for a drive to the paint shop to get the whole car painted over (some chick hit me so i need to get it painted) and it drove fine. i didnt rev past 3K but when i get the car back on monday or tuesday i'll open it up. i wanna see how much it's gonna pull at around 3-7K rpm's.
let us know how ur install went b18ls
b18 ls
09-18-2004, 01:43 PM
Finally some info... Thanks for the support boosted.
boosted k20
09-18-2004, 03:01 PM
did u get the cams from the guy i recommeded to u? the guy from honda-tech.com?
i would DEFINTELY get the valve springs if i were u. the stock springs dont hold alot of pressure. im able to push the stock springs down with my hands with no problem. i couldnt do that with the crower springs.
r u gonna have them installed at a shop?
P.S. Hey man, if u cant get quick answers to ur questions on this forum, u can always go to www.honda-tech.com to get some answers. i found out about this site like 1 month ago and it's really cool. u get responses VERY quick. u should try it if u havent already
i would DEFINTELY get the valve springs if i were u. the stock springs dont hold alot of pressure. im able to push the stock springs down with my hands with no problem. i couldnt do that with the crower springs.
r u gonna have them installed at a shop?
P.S. Hey man, if u cant get quick answers to ur questions on this forum, u can always go to www.honda-tech.com to get some answers. i found out about this site like 1 month ago and it's really cool. u get responses VERY quick. u should try it if u havent already
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