Ignition Switch replacement procedure

This was originally posted by CCCD. Just some minor tweaks to the procedure by me. Hope this helps some of you. This is applies to a 1997 Blazer LT AWD.

First make sure the key is in the “OFF” position. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, and disable the air bag. Do this by removing the air bag fuse and disconnecting the yellow connector at the base of the steering column. Remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal first.

Next remove all the access panels and assess the situation. First remove the lower panel, 7mm Hex fasteners, then loosen the upper panel with 7mm Hex fasteners and torque drive (T25 size).

Now remove the lower steering wheel column cover. It has two T25 torque fasteners that are accessed from the underside. Note the two hooks on the rear of the cover. Now remove the top steering wheel cover. Two E6 series Torx fasteners (I read a std ¼ drive 3/32socket, might work, but I think using the right tools is better) are visible (see explanation below). Note the one on the driver’s side wont fall out after you loosen it, it has a lock nut to keep from falling out.
I read that you don’t need to remove the top cover, but I found it much easier with it removed. I used a Dremel tool to cut a slit just under the key cylinder. Now GENTLY spread the plastic enough to come around the approx. 0.75” Dia. key housing. It’s easier with the tilt down all the way. The rubber cover on the lower cover will hide the cut.

Next remove the small white connector from the top of the metal, key “tumbler”. Rotate the switch towards the passenger seat to remove. This gets the small wires out of the way so you can get to the upper left fastener.

Now you’re ready to remove the switch. Reverse Torx fasteners hold the switch in. These are the same kind of fasteners as earlier. They require an “E” series socket. Basically the fastener looks just like the business end of a torque screwdriver. It is an E3, or E4 socket. I found an E4 at Sears Hardware. It fit a bit loose but it worked. With some down pressure and slight side pressure they were removed. BE CAREFULL!!! Note the white plastic parts toward the front of the car. For the lower right fastener the white part goes on the outside of the black plastic switch, when things go back together.

Now go back underneath and remove the harness at the main block. Use a 9/32 socket to loosen center fastener (mine was red). There are basically three harnesses in one. The two outside ones are for the turn signals. Remember orientation of the harness block, relieves worry when you go back to install the new harness. These two out side harnesses come out from the bottom/back side of the ignition switch harness. Once loose, cut the zip ties and remove the switch.

Now just put everything back in reverse order. Connected the battery and test the switch before reassembling everything. When the air bag is disabled the air bag light will stay on.
Success!

Great Post.. pretty much the same steps i took last night myself. Though i ended up pulling the steering wheel and airbag rather that cutting the plastic (reason for this was the damn manual said there's a retainer clip on the top along with the two E6 screws!!--WHICH there wasn't) Or else i would have cut the thing.

Wish i had this guide before i did it and probably could have saved an hour or two :)

GOOD GUIDE!

Where are the moderators?

We need this to be a sticky.

is there any difference in this procedure regarding a blazer 2000?

shouldn't be, why, yours doing this too?

not but my hazard switch (on top of the steering wheel) is damaged, so i have to replace it. So i imagine that the procedure would help me a lot in order to acces to this switch...

The hazrd switch replacement does not require you ripping the column apart.

Here is how you do it.:

http://s-series.org/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=41&page=1

ok, good help....

Your welcome.

Just did one myself the same way, cut the plastic but found after moving the plastic around the cylinder the outer rubber on the key cylinder pops off and easily pops back on making my cut pointless but hey, I got er done!

this would have helped me a year ago but thanks anyway im finding people everyday that needs this info. by the way i cleaned the metal strips inside the black box rather than spending the money for a new harness. Carbon build up! Who would have thought it.

Ignition switch - white connector - how to remove?

Hi, I'm working on replacing the ignition switch in our '97 Blazer. I have the steering wheel column covers off. Above the key tumbler there is a white connector that must be removed. It is small and has two wires that go to the ignition switch. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to pull out this white connector. I've tugged on it from different angles.

I looked at the replacement switch and notice that the bottom of its white connector is a button that can be depressed. I guess this is what signals the ignition switch to work when you turn the key tumbler. I hope this helps describe this connector that I need to remove.

Any and all advice appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
-- recurve

Ignition switch should have the pink wire going to a black box.

Just twist the switch to the passanger side of the car

Hi Sfrid, thanks for the fast reply.

Where CCCD said to turn the tumbler "clockwise", you modified this to say "toward the passenger side of the car." Most of what you wrote is very similar to what CCCD had said but you must have had some trouble with this connector too so you changed the wording.

I'm still having trouble. I just went to try to remove the connector again. I don't understand what "passenger side" means… sorry I'm so dense. I've tried going both clockwise and anti-clockwise with the tumbler, but I can't get the white connector out.

Here is a picture of the situation taken while sitting in the driver's seat and looking with my head over the steering wheel (from the ceiling looking down):

http://homepage.mac.com/recurve/img/white_connector_arrows.jpg

If I turn the tumbler clockwise:
================================
I have the battery cables removed (so it's equivalent to a dead battery)

I'm trying to remove the white connector on top of the key tumbler. According to CCCD's post it said I needed to turn the tumbler "clockwise." So I tried, that didn't work and the key got stuck in the tumbler. I couldn't turn the tumbler back to the lock position and pull the key out.

So I popped the hood and connected the battery cables again. Then I hopped in the car and could very easily turn the key tumbler back to the lock position and pull the key out.

If I turn the tumbler counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise for Canadian friends):
================================
I can turn the tumbler to the position you would use if you wanted to listen to music without the engine on. But still, I can't dislodge the white connector.

It is easy to turn the key back to the basic position (I guess this is the LOCK position) and pull the key out. No need to hook up the battery.

What am I missing?
================================
I must be missing something obvious to most people. I'm a complete nerdy dweeb who knows little about automobiles. I mean, I've been reading like mad recently and soaking up info like a sponge, but that doesn't help much with real world tasks. There are two metal prongs (you can barely see them in the picture) that hold the white connector from the top. The white connector goes into its slot in a way that I don't understand. I'm looking at the new ignition switch I got from Advance Auto Parts and I just don't know how that switch goes in there. It has a button on the bottom that must be flicked by the tumbler to turn on the Blazer. I'm probably misunderstanding the "wiggling" technique to remove this white connector.

I'd like to try to finish this job on Sunday. Any help, tips, or a firm kick in the butt would be a big help! Thanks :-)
-- recurve

when taking the white connector off you have to turn and pull at the same time toward the passenger side or to the right. I still don't understand why you want to mess with the ignition switch itself when you explained an electrical problem.
Have Fun!

You dont have to turn the key at all. Just grab the little white switch and turn it clockwise. It should then just pop out.

I would like to be a mod.....

I would get a good buch of stickies going.

I got the white connector off. Here is the deal. When looking above the steering wheel (from the ceiling looking down) you will see two small pieces of aluminum holding the white connector from above. Between these two small pieces of aluminum is an open space. You will discover that there is a small plastic lever attached to the white connector. You will need a jeweler's screw driver (or something thin and strong) to stick in that cavity and push on the plastic lever.

I pushed with the screw driver on the side of the cavity closest to the engine block (instead of the side close to my stomach) and the white connector started to rotate and popped out quite easily. Not much force was needed at all. When looking from above, the white connector rotated out with a clockwise motion on a plane parallel to road.

Thanks,
-- recurve

Barpat, I think you confused me with someone else. Remember you told me to remove the ignition switch and clean the contacts.

Take care,
-- recurve

This procedure saved me a ton of time. I will not that there is a procedure for removing the lock cylinder without the plastic cut. If remove all the torx screws holding the plastic to the collum you can slip your hand and a 3/16 or so sized allen key under the plastic. Put the key in the ignition...turn Key to "start".. push allen key down into small hole in the top of the lock cylinder...(tough to see without a picture) and press down...turn key to "on" position and the key and start cylinder will pull straight out...

The bad news is that I dont think this fixed my problem.

You sure?

i'm the nu guy on the block with this problem, 97 blazer,no idiot lights, no fuel pump, no start. when i have idiot lights, i have fuel pump, i have start. so i'm going to follow your directions and report back on my resolve. thx 4 being involved w/blazers... cscope

OK....update.... I had a memory of this initial post where the poster says "the white thing goes outside of the black ignition block".. or something like that. In front of the ignition harness is the neutral start/steering wheel lockout solenoid. When the dealer put the ignition block back on from a previous service they put this solenoid under the ignition harness block...This is wrong... I believe now that that installation is what has caused me to replace the iginiton harness... the starter/solenoid... and the battery.... Be cautious in your re-install. Also I have an ignition harness for this thing that seems to be in fine shape... anyone care to purchace a used ignition harness ?

I've had to replace/fix my ignition switch a few times. After the third time I figured out that a new switch was not needed, just an adjustment to line up the teeth. If you haven't purchased a new ignition switch, I suggest trying this to save money. When looking at the gear teeth on the old switch, rotate the gear so that there is a single tooth to the left, then a gap, then the rest of the teeth to the right. The gap between the teeth should be at a 90 degree angle to the switch (straight out). Turn the key to the AUX position and reinsert the switch. This should line everything up correctly and all you have to do is put everything back together. To get the key to rotate there is a push button under the steering column that can be pushed in. This should disengage the locking mechanism (sort of like those vehicles that you have to push the button to remove the key). As far as the white connector is concerned....it should twist out "fairly easily".

If you are having problems pulling the old switch out, there are two square holes on each side that you can insert a paper clip into (one at a time while pulling the switch out) and the switch should slide right out.

I haven't done this procedure ina while, so if I missed a step, or if it's still giving you problems, I'd be willing to take mine apart again and write everything down. I might even take pictures. LOL

I had a engine 4.3 4X4 that would turn over but not start. No Idiot lights or gauges and could not get a diagnostic reading from computer dead on ignition side suspected ignition switch so this post of yours really helped me on installing the new one thanks.

this is the orig post http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636&highlight=SWITCH+REPLACEMENT

Great post! Kudos to Sfrid073 for the great info.

I have a 97 Blazer LT 4.3 S10 that always has something failing - and I try to take excellent care of my stuff - and after spending ungodly amounts on shop labor I have decided to take matters into my own hands going forward where possible.

I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with...

A couple of weeks ago the dashboard lights started acting up. They would come on after a few seconds and the vehicle wouldn't start until then. In a moment of frustration I banged on the steering column housing and they would pop on and off I would go - but it's been getting worse. I removed the column housing (did not need to remove the key cylinder cap(?)) and found that a small tap on the black box under the key cylinder would fire up the dash lights. This is all connected to the wiring harness described in this post. To order the part am I calling this the ignition module or is there a different or more accurate term? Anybody know the part number?

I am also pretty handy with a soldering gun. Is this something I could fix myself or (as I assume) does it need to be replaced?


The other question I have relates to the tranny. The same time that my ignition started to give me issues the tranny was having a hard time shifting. It would bang into second gear and would not go into overdrive. The dealership recommended a "transmission fluid transfusion" for $180. I thought this was ridiculous but it seemed to clear up the issues. What is this procedure and how does it differ from an oil change? I have about 130K on this vehicle. I've read that doing anything to the tranny at high mileage is a recipe for disaster. Is this going to be the probable case?


FYI: The water pump, security system, electric mirrors, rear wiper (and leaking hose), upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, stereo (and one rear speaker), heater core and fan, serpentine tensioner, brake fluid container, A/C, leaking tranny pan, engine oil leak (that the dealership cannot find without an unreasonable bill), possible leaking intake manifold, and what the dealer called a propeller shaft (small drive shaft that powers the front wheels blew right out of the vehicle) etc., etc., etc. have either been replaced or have quit working. This is beside all of the expected maintenance that I have done on a regular basis. I change the oil more often than I should and now flush the rad every couple of years. I keep the engine so clean you could eat off it. I have owned a bunch of GM's products (High Sierra, Chevelle, Nova, Cutlass, Camaro - younger days, J6000, Park Avenue, Blazer,) but I will need a lot of convincing to buy another one...

Thanks in advance for any help with my questions.

Forget it...

In the past five weeks, since my 97 Blazer hit 130,000 miles the following has failed:

Crank sensor
Transmission sensor (solenoid?)
Ignition switch
ABS brakes
Two oil compression line leaks
Intake manifold leak
Transmission is haveing a hard time coming out of second gear - and sometimes doesn't.

I keep my cars in excellent shape - you could eat off the engine - so how is it possible that all this failed as soon as I hit 130K? Answer: It was engineered that way. When I think of all the money I have put into this GM lemon I could cry - I could have also bought a Mercedes.

Dealership also refused to do two items of recall work - the driver seatbelt issue and the electric mirror issue.


I am throwing a match in the back of my Blazer tonight. I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER GM PRODUCT AGAIN. EVER. PERIOD.

Sorry about the money pit. Our 97 Jimmy with 150k miles is presenting a lot of challenges for us recently too and I wonder if this generation of Blazers have exceptionally poor reliability. I have owned many GMs as well, and yes, they break a lot.

I don't recommend a Mercedes, however, since they have the lowest quality rating of the 36 nameplates sold in the US. We have bought several used cars for oour kids recently. All have developed difficult to diagnose/fix problems. These vehicles include the Blazer, a 2001 Dodge 1500, and a 2001 Audi A4. Our Mitsubishis have been the best vehicles we have owned so far.

Now on to replacing the ignition switch in our Jimmy to hopefully fix the tranny limp mode and get the key out...

Finally got around to replacing the ignition switch harness and YES! All problems related were solved. The tranny is once again a 4-speed automatic instead of 2-speed manual in limp mode, the key tumbler functions properly to release the key, and SES light is off.

Comments:

Removal of the lower access panels, including the parking brake cable, helps for accessing the air bag connector and the harness connector.

A 5/32" soccket worked fine for the Torx E6 screw heads, but I had to buy a Torx E socket set anyway for the E4 screws (no E3 needed). Don't expect to find it at the autoparts store. I found it at ToolKing. I think that a 3 mm or 1/8" socket will work for the E4, but I didn't have and couldn't find any.

I slotted the upper cover with a dremel to get it past the key switch as described - it won't show because the lower cover hides it.

Make sure that you dig deep enough in the thread (post #19 by recurve) to find the pointer on how to get the small white connector off by sticking a tiny screwdriver in to release the small white tang (take a look at the one on the new harness).

Post #24 by ddub points out that the white (tumbler solonoid?) needs to mount back on top of the black block at the lower right fastener for proper operation.

The harness connector to the main block is driven in and out entirely by the 9/32 screw. It takes about 12 full revolutions before it is free. The turn signal harness connectors remain attached above and below the switch ignition harness connector and must then be swapped on to the new ignition harness connector in the proper orientation.

Greetings!

I just finished installing a new Ignition Switch as per the procedures posted by Sfrid073.

All of the intermittent electrical issues (ABS, Windows, Climate Controls, Check Engine lights, etc) went away once I replaced that Switch/harness.....beautiful posting by Sfrid073!

The only problem I've encountered, is that now I can't get the key out of the lock cylinder (tumbler) - I've tried disconnecting the battery (twice), and it still will not come out no matter how many times you turn (clockwise & counter clockwise).

I must have not read a step properly - has anyone encountered this when replacing their ignition starter switch, and if so how did you fix the problem??

Prior to my replacing the switch, the key was working fine in the tumbler.

Any help would be fantastic!!

Thanks,

heydawgg (Rob)

Rob - All I can think of is that the tumbler solonoid isn't aligned (has some kinf of plunger, perhaps), which means disassembling the column covers again. It may not be it, but good luck! See comment I previously posted:

Post #24 by ddub points out that the white (tumbler solonoid?) needs to mount back on top of the black block at the lower right fastener for proper operation.

Thanks for the info mallenfam, I removed the solenoid module completely (not really needed), and it fixed the key stuck issue. There is a danger that someone could lock your steering wheel while you drive if they turn the key, but that would be a very low chance (I drive the truck maybe once a week), and the kids are strapped in their carseats in the back.

Thanks for your post!

Rob

Could you do the same thing for a '85

Can't see why not - I believe the solenoids are all mounted pretty much in the same place - there was one torx screw that I had to remove to get the thing out (plus a clip which you push in with a small screwdriver on the top portion of the solenoid housing - which is white in my case with my '97 Blazer). Just remember you still need to replace the torx screw as it holds the igntion starter switch (black box) in place near the key tumbler.

Good Luck!

heydawgg (Rob)

We have a 1997 Jimmy and I'm wondering if our Jimmy is having this problem. At first I thought it was a battery drain/electrical issue since this almost happens at random, but after looking on the net I'm seeing an eery similarity to what ours is doing. Basically what is happening is sometime (at random) our Jimmy will decide not to start (just cranks and cranks). Sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. Althought I can usually get it to happen a) right after we've driven it for 5-10 mins. or b) if it try turning it on/off/on/off/ (usually once in a half dozen or so times it won't start). Usually if I decide to let it crank long enough it will eventually decide to fire. I can always tell when it's going to work becuase while it is cranking not all the lights are lit up on the dash, right when it's about to fire a few more lights come on and I here the key buzz (buzz/ding the car makes when your key is in the ignition and turned on).

I have replaced the alternator and battery in the last month so I know these are good my only other thought it that it could be the starter?? Funny thing is a couple of times that this has happened I've thought it was the battery and I've tried to jump it and it always seems to fire when I jump. Any explanations for that one?

I'm really at a loss on this one. Hoping someone out there can lend me some advice as to what is going on. How much is an ignition switch anyway?

Thanks in Advance,

Gary

Hi Deltaf508,

Before I do anything, I would replace that Ignition Switch - in my case it was like I had gremlins in my wiring. Some days things would work (sort of), other days....nothing. Changing out the Ignition Switch would be the very first thing I would do in your case for sure - that would remove the gremlins and would then help you narrow any other issues down. The Ignition Switch (in Canada) costed me $117.00 (ACDELCO OEM Part), and the only thing I had to buy was a proper set of torx screwdrivers ($20). So the entire cost not including my time (4 hours as this was a new procedure for me...I took it slow) was $137 Canadian....pretty cheap if you compared this to what a shop would charge you. Good Luck!

heydawgg, thanks for your input I was afraid of that. Looks like I'll be diving into that this week.

Just to make sure I'm on the right track this is the part I should be looking at right?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQGMCQQJimmyQQAC_DelcoQQIgnition_SwitchQQ1997QQACD 1498C.html

Not that I'll be buying from here, but I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right part first.

Thanks Again,

Gary

Hi deltaf508,

Yes that's the correct part re: Ignition Starter Switch - looks identical to the one I replaced myself.

Good Luck!

Heydawgg

Thanks, Replaced the switch Sunday and so far everything is working perfect. Hopefully it will take care of it. Thanks for the help!

Take Care,

Gary

Glad it worked Gary, my '97 seems to be running way better now as well, so far no issues.

Cheers!
Heydawgg (Rob)

Sup,
I am having all the problems stated above and more with my '95 blazer. First it wants to start when it feels like it. I can try to crank it and it keeps trying to turn over, eventually... letting it crank enough it will turn over. I was wondering before I tear it apart if it is my ignition switch?!?
I am also having problems with my 4-wheel drive, Its and electric shift, I can git it to shift from 2HI, to 4LO but occasionally it will shift into 4HI. What's the deal?

-DelawareRebel

Hi Delawarerebel,

You know, I think the Ignition Starter Switch issue is specifically related to the 1997 Blazer. I'm not 100% sure it would be applicable to your '95 issues, although they sound somewhat similar.

Have you tried the forum search function using key words like "hard to start 1995 Blazer", or "starting problems"...etc, etc. keep trying different combinations....you should find some that are applicable.
Or another thing you could do is try asking one of the online mechanics....they probably have WAY more expertise and knowledge on your issues (specifically to your '95 Blazer). I'm a weekend warrior myself, and I found this forum to be very helpful with my issues - all problems resolved so far!

Good luck!

heydawgg

hi, i'm new here. found this thread, as well as this one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t67530.html (http://www.automotiveforums.com/t67530.html)

our blazer died at a stop light one day; firestone gave us a $3,700 estimate including fuel injector/"spiders?", fuel pump (which we've replaced once or twice), etc.

i replaced the fuel filter and changed plugs, wires, distributor. last night it again died at light. then died while moving. notice various dash lights, including air bag light, which seems weird. car will re-start, though it seems a bit sluggish.

a neighbor mentioned ignition coil/ignition module. but these threads seem to point to the ignition switch under similarly-described problems. i don't know enough to know what the ignition coil v. module v. switch does, let alone what the symptoms would be if each of the three is bad. is the consensus to start with the ignition switch???

the only other description i can give that might help is that at a light it sometimes acts like it wants to cut off, but i can keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas and the extra juice seems to help.

i should note that it took about 6 or 7 hours to change the fuel filter and plugs, wires, distributor... so i'm no mechanic. if the ignition switch is recommended, can i wing it based on these directions... or should a guy like me take it somewhere????

thanks for providing these informational forums......
scott

Your problem is very different from the problem that required me to replace the ingnition switch harness, which strangely enough was causing the transmission to not operate properly.

I doubt that it is your fuel injectors and personally would never go anywhere near that Firestone again $3700!!!!

Is your SES/MIL light on, and if so have you read the codes?

The problem sounds electrical or low fuel pressure, but unfortunately I don't know. Hopefully on eof the Pros on this forum will chime in soo. They have really been helpful to me several times. Good luck!

my is 95 it got the same code and doing same thing and the was change last year thats what old onwer said

so what happened? - did you get it done? how'd you get the white connector off?

Hi jomin1016,

Yes, got the job done, it took a while to figure out that white clip, but once that came off, it was a breeze after that.

It's been a while since I did the job, but if I remember correctly, the white clip needed a bit of prodding with a small end screwdriver. The clip grips one side, you just need to try and look around and force it up a bit....it should pop out.

Once I put everything back together, I have had zero problems with the key getting stuck in the Ingnition Switch....problem solved!

Heydawgg (Rob)

ok, I got the ignition switch replaced and the tranny seems to be back in working order, but now I've got a misfire on cylinder 4? - what the heck - will this truck ever be back in shape?

For what it's worth, the AC Delco ignition switch D1498C can be obtained at Amazon for ~$70:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9QLX4

Unfortunately this new Ignition Switch didn't help my no 1st or 4th gear [Limp Mode with "Check Engine Light and P0759 error code]:banghead:

I've already changed both shift solenoids [that cost me about $65 incl the tranny fluid/gasket/filter/solenoids] and now this ignition switch and still can't pass a GA Emissions Test [required to renew my GA Registration [due this month [Spetember]! I'm at my wits end! [I haven't even mentioned the new starter, alternator, fuel pump and battery this year]

Anybody have any suggestions? I'm wide open for any thoughts--I've got like 12 days left to drive legally..... :(

For what it's worth, the AC Delco ignition switch D1498C can be obtained at Amazon for ~$70:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9QLX4

Unfortunately this new Ignition Switch didn't help my no 1st or 4th gear [Limp Mode with "Check Engine Light and P0759 error code]:banghead:

I've already changed both shift solenoids [that cost me about $65 incl the tranny fluid/gasket/filter/solenoids] and now this ignition switch and still can't pass a GA Emissions Test [required to renew my GA Registration [due this month [Spetember]! I'm at my wits end! [I haven't even mentioned the new starter, alternator, fuel pump and battery this year]

Anybody have any suggestions? I'm wide open for any thoughts--I've got like 12 days left to drive legally..... :(


I must be getting tired--my error code is P0785 [3-2 shift solenoid circuit fault] not P0759 that I typed in my previous post.

Finally, I see a suggestion "reset your computer and have it relearn."

How do I do that? Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?

God this sucks :crying:

Well last ditch I'm going to replace the 3-2 Shift solenoid :banghead:

This thing is nickel and diming me to death:

10/07 $650 Repair bill for water pump + other related stuff (won't be going back to Gibbs Auto).

02/08 $100 new Bosch battery

03/08 $900 repair bill for new fuel pump (I will NEVER go back to this Firestone!)

5/08 $165 for new starter that I put in (I should have NEVER purchased it from Pep Boys (high retail + sales tax) See below for what I pay now!

9/08 $79 for a new 120Amp alternator I put in--thanks to DB Electric in Tennessee: http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/

and I forgot (I'm getting old!):

9/08: $65 for the A/B Shift solenoids, gasket, 8 qts ATF, tranny filter

9/08: $75 for the AC Delco Ignition Switch (got it from Amazon). Big PITA to install!

New kid on the block with what appears to be a common problem. I decided to get into this replacement as I wasn't getting a fuel pump run call at start.

Without this thread I probably wouldn't have attempted the replacement.

Fortunately before I move on to my stupid question, I can offer a tip for those who don't have the E3/4 reverse torx. A cut piece of 3/16" brake line (about a buck at the auto parts store) lightly tapped onto the head of the fastener will form its own socket and works like a champ.

As for the question, there was a day or two between starting the replacement and finally figuring out how to remove those smaller torx fasteners. I slept a couple of times, when I sleep I forget things. So just what is this shorter three pin harness coming off the terminal block of the switch assembly(orange w/black stripe, light blue, gray)? I can't find a matching connector under there anywhere. It does go someplace right?:runaround: :banghead:

Thanks in advance, and again great post!

New kid on the block with what appears to be a common problem. I decided to get into this replacement as I wasn't getting a fuel pump run call at start.

Without this thread I probably wouldn't have attempted the replacement.

Fortunately before I move on to my stupid question, I can offer a tip for those who don't have the E3/4 reverse torx. A cut piece of 3/16" brake line (about a buck at the auto parts store) lightly tapped onto the head of the fastener will form its own socket and works like a champ.

As for the question, there was a day or two between starting the replacement and finally figuring out how to remove those smaller torx fasteners. I slept a couple of times, when I sleep I forget things. So just what is this shorter three pin harness coming off the terminal block of the switch assembly(orange w/black stripe, light blue, gray)? I can't find a matching connector under there anywhere. It does go someplace right?:runaround: :banghead:

Thanks in advance, and again great post!

what is the function of the switch under the shifter on the floor. this seems to actuate a selonoid in the ignition. Im not sure what parts are in need of replacement. I hate to do all the work in the colomn only to find out the actual problem is in the shifter switch.

MY Chiltons says you have to take the Steering Wheel off if you have aitbags?

I'm to the Ignition Switch and cannot find any Reverse Torx screws only 1 regular Torx head. If you're sitting in the driver seat it is on the back side of the Switch. The switch is still in there pretty good. It will wiggle a bit, should I force it out or will that ruin things internally? I have the new Switch sitting here and can nothing that any screws would secure.

I'm a dork, got it off via 2 spring loaded clips on the switch accessable through 2 holes in the metal key tumbler. Now I have the new on and tried to check it and I have nothing. I have power to dash and all but doesn't turn over. I don't even feel resistance when turning the key when it's in start mode??