turbo question

alright, heres the deal guys
my brother has a garret T3 turbo for sale for 50 bucks, he said the bearings feel good but its been sitting for awhile so he doesnt know if it needs a rebuild or not, right now i'm tempted to buy it but it dont want to if its gonna need a rebuild. what do u guys think? i'll be running about 7 Psi on my Stock ZC daily if it makes a difference

You have any idea how many miles are on the turbo?

if you don't buy it I will ! 75$ shipped right now!

i would buy it too lol

If it has no shaft play ....grab it!

You have any idea how many miles are on the turbo?


no idea how many miles but everything feels nice and tight inside there. and theres no shaft play at all, well i guess the price is right, i just need 2 find an HF manifold tho :) i guess i'm gonna grab it off my bro then :) thanx guys

yeah go for it , worse comes to worst its only 50 bux, now get the rest and fit that shit on :P

HF manifold... screw that, just pick up the SSautochrome one, equal lenght stainless direct bolt on and the quality is pretty good too. not to mention fairly cheap.

i got a manifold for ya 1phatCX... its off a Y7... im installin my headers today or tommorow... i can bring the manifold down to Toronto next thursday/friday... 70 bucks...

Travis

k-drum, isnt that the one everyone hates on because its cheaply made? i dont really have the money for a turbo manifold at the moment however, but i might be getting a free HF manifold to do this anyways

HF manifold dominates the SSautochrome manifold. they are totally junk.

I have used the SS manifold, And have friends that still use the SS manifold, the new reinforced one is quite good.

but if you feel like condeming a product without using it that's up to you.

I say use the hf manifold especially if its free, but i trust the SS manifold, its only like $150 too.

yea well if i had the green i'd try one out, but i dont so HF it is for now :)

If you notice, they stopped selling the manifold because it was fucking trash. OBX does have a new one out though that is a direct copy of full race's manifold which looks promising, and sells for $400.

the SSauto manifold had runners that were too small, too thin, had bad welds, and placed the turbo too low for any practical use.

If you notice, they stopped selling the manifold because it was fucking trash. OBX does have a new one out though that is a direct copy of full race's manifold which looks promising, and sells for $400.

the SSauto manifold had runners that were too small, too thin, had bad welds, and placed the turbo too low for any practical use.


alright, thanx for that info :)

also, what kinda fuel management would i be looking at if i'm gonna be running 7 Psi on a tiny T3 turbo?

I would recommend a chipped ECU and turboedit, or convert to OBD1 and run uberdata, crome or others along with using 450cc injectors.

In the very least i would use the AFC hack which i did use for a couple months with good results, just make sure to retard your timing at the distributor a couple degrees (no MSD timign retard is needed and i'll explain why if you really want to know).

If you really just dont want to have proper management and want to boost, you could always throw on an FMU and upgraded fuel pump, but i do not recommend an FMu for any application.

alright, well how exactly can u do the AFC Hack? and should i used 450cc injectors as well with the AFC or use stock ones?

Crew the AFC hack use good old checkvalves.

I have a Turbo Chip and a vafc and still got a Map sensor error when I had the turbo. it went away with checkvalves.

and for your fuel use a 10:1 or 12:1 FMU. cheap and Simple.

as for the manifolds I'm not going to start a pissing contest. but I have seen the OBX ones break a hell of alot more than the SS ones, the main reason is that people don't put a fexible part before the cat. the Main reasons the Manifolds break is because they have no flex.

The AFC hack has its ups and downs but it is guaranteed. I used it as a fail safe if one of my tunes didnt turn out right.

there is also no need for check valves unless you are running an FMU, especially if you are running an AFC hack. NO CHECK VALVES WITH AFC HACK

You shouldn't get a check engine light if you have a boost room unless the rom is bad. the stock map sensor can read in excess of 12psi, its the ECU that determines that 1.3 psi is error and triggers the check engine light. A boost rom will have this "check" disabled and allow the map sensor to input values above 0 vacuum and provide mapping to do so.


1PhatCX: 450cc DSM injectors are crucial to using the AFC hack. other larger injectors can be used too on a different scale, but 450's have been proven to work for upwards of 10psi.

Basically, the AFC listens for the voltage output of the MAP sensor, and by the user subtracting fuel, it adjusts the map sensors voltage output on a scale which the stock ECU can still read. thats how an AFC works.. modifying map sensor voltage. So if we know the ECU will throw a check engine light for MAP sensor if it reads roughly 3.1 volts, or 1.3psi, and the map sensor reads 0-5 volts on a scale from about 25in/hg of vacuum reading 0 volts, up to 14.7psi reading 5 volts, you want to scale your map sensors voltage so that when it is actually reading your maximum boost pressureit is only putting out less than 1.3 volts, so the ECu stays happy. Well in all this, you are setting your fuel controller to subract 30-40% fuel from your maps, so you will need fuel injectors 30-40% bigger than the stock injectors, i.e. 450cc injectors.

so once again, in order that i prefer..
Fuel managment for turbo:
1. standalone or chipped ECU with 450cc injectors or larger
2. AFC with 450cc injectors
3. small mexican under the hood spraying extra fuel from a squirt bottle with one hand and retarding the distributor with the other hand while driving
4. FMU & check valves with optional MSD BTM