Decal masters... I seek your guidance
DSM-Mark
09-14-2004, 04:09 PM
I'm trying to use some 'Modelers' brand carbon fiber sheet, but my question really applies to all decalling. The big issue, as most people have it, is 'complex curves'. So I've invested in MicroSol and MicroSet. My typical procedure is to put the decal sheet in water for about 15 seconds, then remove and place on paper towel. 'Start the Timer' on 1 minute. During that minute, I apply MicroSet to the part to be decalled. Slide the decal into place and position final location. Then I apply a little bit of MicroSol, and 'leave the room, if not the country'. Normally when I come back, the decal has settled down into place and is wrapping the complex curve quite well. However, what is often no good, is that in settling, the decal has made a fold back in on itself, which looks like a crease. My question, is how do you get rid of that crease? If I apply more MicroSol, it tends to just redry into the same position.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
proosen
09-14-2004, 04:20 PM
Normally I fiddle the decal a bit after the 'sol is applied. Not to much as it's easy to destroy them. If I see that it's going to crease itself I make a cut with a fresh and sharp blade to take the crease away. If possible I cut one time first and when the decal is laying on top of itself make another cut and take away the two loose pieces to get a clean and smooth joint. Hope this will help sorting your problems out and that my babbeling made any sence to you!?
Cheers!
Niclas
Cheers!
Niclas
freakray
09-14-2004, 04:22 PM
I'm not sure what you mean by it creases, do you mean in the middle of the complex curve, or on the edge?
If you read the 'How To' I did on C/F decalling, you will see how I go about it, starting in the middle and working outwards. I seldom get any creases this method.
If you read the 'How To' I did on C/F decalling, you will see how I go about it, starting in the middle and working outwards. I seldom get any creases this method.
DSM-Mark
09-14-2004, 04:41 PM
I'm not sure what you mean by it creases, do you mean in the middle of the complex curve, or on the edge?
If you read the 'How To' I did on C/F decalling, you will see how I go about it, starting in the middle and working outwards. I seldom get any creases this method.
I reread that tutorial... thanks again for writing it! How long do you wait between placing the decal and first applying a 'sol' solution? The tutorial almost implies that you wait a while to allow the decal to 'tack up' a little bit.
I also think I'm going to have to look into a low wattage hairdryer, as I have not been using one.
If you read the 'How To' I did on C/F decalling, you will see how I go about it, starting in the middle and working outwards. I seldom get any creases this method.
I reread that tutorial... thanks again for writing it! How long do you wait between placing the decal and first applying a 'sol' solution? The tutorial almost implies that you wait a while to allow the decal to 'tack up' a little bit.
I also think I'm going to have to look into a low wattage hairdryer, as I have not been using one.
RallyRaider
09-14-2004, 06:15 PM
I find that to avoid creases you cannot "leave the room, let alone the country" at all. I work the decal with a soft brush and a cotton bud, rolling the cotton bud over the decal to 1. Move bubbles out and 2. Encourage the decal to go where I want it. If you apply lots of decal softener this can be dangerous because the decals will melt and distort so you have to be very careful. I alternate between decal solution and heat, usually pushing hard while the decal is still hot and malleable.
Some decals work with this method and some don’t. You have to test if working with a new type of decal. And even despite all your best efforts there are occasions where you will get creases anyway. If that is going to happen I try to cut the decal with a very sharp knife so the overlap is minimised.
Some decals work with this method and some don’t. You have to test if working with a new type of decal. And even despite all your best efforts there are occasions where you will get creases anyway. If that is going to happen I try to cut the decal with a very sharp knife so the overlap is minimised.
Vric
09-14-2004, 07:00 PM
I do like Phil
I work on decals a lot and very long. like a hood can take me near 1 hour of full work
I work on decals a lot and very long. like a hood can take me near 1 hour of full work
NissanS15Racer
09-14-2004, 08:18 PM
I do like Phil
I work on decals a lot and very long. like a hood can take me near 1 hour of full work
:iagree:
when i set the decals i always have a blow dryer next to me it help the process and alot of decal softing solution and decal setting solution
I work on decals a lot and very long. like a hood can take me near 1 hour of full work
:iagree:
when i set the decals i always have a blow dryer next to me it help the process and alot of decal softing solution and decal setting solution
Vric
09-14-2004, 08:47 PM
I don't use airdryer anymore since one of the decals misteriously desapeared while using it :D
NissanS15Racer
09-14-2004, 10:45 PM
I don't use airdryer anymore since one of the decals misteriously desapeared while using it :D
that has happened to me before also :lol2:
:lol: remember to set it on low and not get it 2 close the the decal
that has happened to me before also :lol2:
:lol: remember to set it on low and not get it 2 close the the decal
hirofkd
09-15-2004, 12:30 AM
I use the rolling cotton swab method, too.
After placing a decal in the right position, I apply a small amount of decal setting solution, then I roll a cotton swab in radial directions to push away the bubbles and also to let the decal conform to the surface. I keep the cotton swab moist so that it doesn't pick up the decal. In any case, I think it's risky to completely trust the decal solution. You can always thin it with water to reduce the strength, like I do with a moistened cotton swab.
After placing a decal in the right position, I apply a small amount of decal setting solution, then I roll a cotton swab in radial directions to push away the bubbles and also to let the decal conform to the surface. I keep the cotton swab moist so that it doesn't pick up the decal. In any case, I think it's risky to completely trust the decal solution. You can always thin it with water to reduce the strength, like I do with a moistened cotton swab.
DSM-Mark
09-15-2004, 01:41 AM
Thanks for the replies everyone! Very, very helpful and informative.
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