Transmission Problem at 45-50 MPH
Ravenhurst
09-10-2004, 11:23 PM
Greetings.
I've got a 2000 Blazer 4D, 4WD with AWD Feature, the standard 4.3 Vortec V6.
All in all its a good truck, which high maintenance issues that I've repaired in the past without problem. It's got approximately 78,000 miles on it and I decided to bring it in to the dealership to have all the fluids flushed and replaced. Basically the 90,000m tune up. Got a new cap, wires, plugs, fluids for brake, tranny, coolant, oil, and steering. This was about two weeks ago.
Now here's the problem:
Starting yesterday, at 45-50 MPH cruising, the truck constantly slips on itself. I watch the coolant temperature gauge nearly drop to 100, its lowest reading while it is acting "jerky." (Update: The temp guage drops and returns to normal a whole second before the *clunk* sound from the tranny and then the vehicle jerks. Sometimes the temp guage will drop to 100 and nothing more will happen. Again, only at sustained speeds between 45-50mph)
RPM's do not change, nor does any of the other guages. If I stay between this speed, the truck will repeat the jerk every 5-10 seconds. Accelerating past that speed range yields normal driving, and under that speed range everything works fine as well. Its hard to tell, but appears to be getting worse the more I test it.
I'll be checking the tranny fluid at hot idle when I get home tonight.
(Update: Fluid Levels check good.)
BlazerLT, if you got an answer for this one off the top of your head, I owe you a beer. :)
Ravenhurst
I've got a 2000 Blazer 4D, 4WD with AWD Feature, the standard 4.3 Vortec V6.
All in all its a good truck, which high maintenance issues that I've repaired in the past without problem. It's got approximately 78,000 miles on it and I decided to bring it in to the dealership to have all the fluids flushed and replaced. Basically the 90,000m tune up. Got a new cap, wires, plugs, fluids for brake, tranny, coolant, oil, and steering. This was about two weeks ago.
Now here's the problem:
Starting yesterday, at 45-50 MPH cruising, the truck constantly slips on itself. I watch the coolant temperature gauge nearly drop to 100, its lowest reading while it is acting "jerky." (Update: The temp guage drops and returns to normal a whole second before the *clunk* sound from the tranny and then the vehicle jerks. Sometimes the temp guage will drop to 100 and nothing more will happen. Again, only at sustained speeds between 45-50mph)
RPM's do not change, nor does any of the other guages. If I stay between this speed, the truck will repeat the jerk every 5-10 seconds. Accelerating past that speed range yields normal driving, and under that speed range everything works fine as well. Its hard to tell, but appears to be getting worse the more I test it.
I'll be checking the tranny fluid at hot idle when I get home tonight.
(Update: Fluid Levels check good.)
BlazerLT, if you got an answer for this one off the top of your head, I owe you a beer. :)
Ravenhurst
starla3366
09-11-2004, 04:03 AM
Have you seen the check engine light come on, when this happens? Possiblly a code 1840 if you have OBDII.
Transmission Valve Body
When you got the tune up did they change the Trany filter, or did they just flush the system like most places do?
Transmission Valve Body
When you got the tune up did they change the Trany filter, or did they just flush the system like most places do?
Ravenhurst
09-11-2004, 04:11 AM
According to the receipt, no filter was replaced, just the fluid.
No check engine lite has come on... yet. :)
No check engine lite has come on... yet. :)
starla3366
09-11-2004, 04:22 AM
According to the receipt, no filter was replaced, just the fluid.
No check engine lite has come on... yet. :)
If your going to pay for that extensive of a tune up, they should have included the Tran. Filter at least. Those, greedy basterds are always out to get ya.
I'd replace the Filter, ASAP.
blazerlt, Do you got my Back on this one?
No check engine lite has come on... yet. :)
If your going to pay for that extensive of a tune up, they should have included the Tran. Filter at least. Those, greedy basterds are always out to get ya.
I'd replace the Filter, ASAP.
blazerlt, Do you got my Back on this one?
starla3366
09-11-2004, 04:26 AM
Oh, one more question.
How much did you pay the dealership to have this done?
How much did you pay the dealership to have this done?
Ravenhurst
09-11-2004, 07:41 AM
It was about 700$, but also included a replacement driver side window motor as well.
Mikado14
09-11-2004, 01:18 PM
Ok, here's a start:
Do you get this problem when you are driving in "D" or just "OD"? (assuming that you haven't tried this)
Since you have the AWD, Are you in AWD or 2HI?
I will assume that you don't have a "Service 4WD" light on?
When the dealer changed the tranny fluid, Does the receipt show how much fluid was replaced? (I would look under the vehicle to see if the pan was dropped, you could tell by looking at it. If it wasn't dropped, you can't change the filter without doing it)
You mentioned the phrase "slips on itself". Does this mean that the tranny acts as if it is between shifts and then goes into gear with a clunk? (This is why I mentioned driving in "D" vs "OD")
If the "clunk" is gone when you drive in "D", I would check for a poor ground from engine to tranny and frame as well as from the firewall to engine. The overdrive solenoid lockup could be hesitating due to this. The fact that the temp guage is the only guage that goes down is the dilemma. A poor ground would affect others as well. However, seeing as the amount of electronics are in the tranny and transfer case a poor ground is possible and the temp guage might be the most sensitive guage to show this condition.
Conclusion is: If the problem goes away in "D", look for a bad ground on the firewall in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Since the dealer changed this and then the problem surfaced, a ground( I believe there are 2) might have come undone or disturbed. If this looks good, go under the vehicle and check the connections to the tranny. Let us know before we go further. Good Luck!
Do you get this problem when you are driving in "D" or just "OD"? (assuming that you haven't tried this)
Since you have the AWD, Are you in AWD or 2HI?
I will assume that you don't have a "Service 4WD" light on?
When the dealer changed the tranny fluid, Does the receipt show how much fluid was replaced? (I would look under the vehicle to see if the pan was dropped, you could tell by looking at it. If it wasn't dropped, you can't change the filter without doing it)
You mentioned the phrase "slips on itself". Does this mean that the tranny acts as if it is between shifts and then goes into gear with a clunk? (This is why I mentioned driving in "D" vs "OD")
If the "clunk" is gone when you drive in "D", I would check for a poor ground from engine to tranny and frame as well as from the firewall to engine. The overdrive solenoid lockup could be hesitating due to this. The fact that the temp guage is the only guage that goes down is the dilemma. A poor ground would affect others as well. However, seeing as the amount of electronics are in the tranny and transfer case a poor ground is possible and the temp guage might be the most sensitive guage to show this condition.
Conclusion is: If the problem goes away in "D", look for a bad ground on the firewall in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Since the dealer changed this and then the problem surfaced, a ground( I believe there are 2) might have come undone or disturbed. If this looks good, go under the vehicle and check the connections to the tranny. Let us know before we go further. Good Luck!
Ravenhurst
09-11-2004, 05:15 PM
Do you get this problem when you are driving in "D" or just "OD"? (assuming that you haven't tried this)
Since you have the AWD, Are you in AWD or 2HI?
I will assume that you don't have a "Service 4WD" light on?
No, OD is not installed on this vehicle.
Driving in 2HI.
No light is on.
When the dealer changed the tranny fluid, Does the receipt show how much fluid was replaced? (I would look under the vehicle to see if the pan was dropped, you could tell by looking at it. If it wasn't dropped, you can't change the filter without doing it)
Will check ASAP.
Update: This is what the receipt says when dealing with tranny:
Button/AiP Filter Tffd (The dot matrix printer f*cked up here and its hard to read)
Trans Fluid Exchg dextron Pkg
Transmission filter not included
DEXTRON/MERCON III Fluid With QTY listed at 14.
You mentioned the phrase "slips on itself". Does this mean that the tranny acts as if it is between shifts and then goes into gear with a clunk? (This is why I mentioned driving in "D" vs "OD")
Its very hard to tell. Going at a slow acceleration, it seems it is attempting to get into final gear but doesn't quite make it untill after 50mph. If I accelerate more aggressively, it goes right into gear without hesitation or problems. If I cruise at 45-50mph it is a continuous problem.
If the "clunk" is gone when you drive in "D", I would check for a poor ground from engine to tranny and frame as well as from the firewall to engine. The overdrive solenoid lockup could be hesitating due to this. The fact that the temp guage is the only guage that goes down is the dilemma. A poor ground would affect others as well. However, seeing as the amount of electronics are in the tranny and transfer case a poor ground is possible and the temp guage might be the most sensitive guage to show this condition.
Conclusion is: If the problem goes away in "D", look for a bad ground on the firewall in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Since the dealer changed this and then the problem surfaced, a ground( I believe there are 2) might have come undone or disturbed. If this looks good, go under the vehicle and check the connections to the tranny. Let us know before we go further. Good Luck!
I will examine all the wires today, and try to find a loose connection. I'm not very good with cars, so I'll do my best. :)
Since you have the AWD, Are you in AWD or 2HI?
I will assume that you don't have a "Service 4WD" light on?
No, OD is not installed on this vehicle.
Driving in 2HI.
No light is on.
When the dealer changed the tranny fluid, Does the receipt show how much fluid was replaced? (I would look under the vehicle to see if the pan was dropped, you could tell by looking at it. If it wasn't dropped, you can't change the filter without doing it)
Will check ASAP.
Update: This is what the receipt says when dealing with tranny:
Button/AiP Filter Tffd (The dot matrix printer f*cked up here and its hard to read)
Trans Fluid Exchg dextron Pkg
Transmission filter not included
DEXTRON/MERCON III Fluid With QTY listed at 14.
You mentioned the phrase "slips on itself". Does this mean that the tranny acts as if it is between shifts and then goes into gear with a clunk? (This is why I mentioned driving in "D" vs "OD")
Its very hard to tell. Going at a slow acceleration, it seems it is attempting to get into final gear but doesn't quite make it untill after 50mph. If I accelerate more aggressively, it goes right into gear without hesitation or problems. If I cruise at 45-50mph it is a continuous problem.
If the "clunk" is gone when you drive in "D", I would check for a poor ground from engine to tranny and frame as well as from the firewall to engine. The overdrive solenoid lockup could be hesitating due to this. The fact that the temp guage is the only guage that goes down is the dilemma. A poor ground would affect others as well. However, seeing as the amount of electronics are in the tranny and transfer case a poor ground is possible and the temp guage might be the most sensitive guage to show this condition.
Conclusion is: If the problem goes away in "D", look for a bad ground on the firewall in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Since the dealer changed this and then the problem surfaced, a ground( I believe there are 2) might have come undone or disturbed. If this looks good, go under the vehicle and check the connections to the tranny. Let us know before we go further. Good Luck!
I will examine all the wires today, and try to find a loose connection. I'm not very good with cars, so I'll do my best. :)
BlazerLT
09-11-2004, 06:01 PM
Greetings.
I've got a 2000 Blazer 4D, 4WD with AWD Feature, the standard 4.3 Vortec V6.
All in all its a good truck, which high maintenance issues that I've repaired in the past without problem. It's got approximately 78,000 miles on it and I decided to bring it in to the dealership to have all the fluids flushed and replaced. Basically the 90,000m tune up. Got a new cap, wires, plugs, fluids for brake, tranny, coolant, oil, and steering. This was about two weeks ago.
Now here's the problem:
Starting yesterday, at 45-50 MPH cruising, the truck constantly slips on itself. I watch the coolant temperature gauge nearly drop to 100, its lowest reading while it is acting "jerky." (Update: The temp guage drops and returns to normal a whole second before the *clunk* sound from the tranny and then the vehicle jerks. Sometimes the temp guage will drop to 100 and nothing more will happen. Again, only at sustained speeds between 45-50mph)
RPM's do not change, nor does any of the other guages. If I stay between this speed, the truck will repeat the jerk every 5-10 seconds. Accelerating past that speed range yields normal driving, and under that speed range everything works fine as well. Its hard to tell, but appears to be getting worse the more I test it.
I'll be checking the tranny fluid at hot idle when I get home tonight.
(Update: Fluid Levels check good.)
BlazerLT, if you got an answer for this one off the top of your head, I owe you a beer. :)
Ravenhurst
Hehe, people are asking for me by name here now, I must know something. ;)
Alright, so these symptoms happen all at the same time?
Tranny slips or does the engine lose power?
Coolant temperature dives.
Ok, does any of the other gauges go like this?
I've got a 2000 Blazer 4D, 4WD with AWD Feature, the standard 4.3 Vortec V6.
All in all its a good truck, which high maintenance issues that I've repaired in the past without problem. It's got approximately 78,000 miles on it and I decided to bring it in to the dealership to have all the fluids flushed and replaced. Basically the 90,000m tune up. Got a new cap, wires, plugs, fluids for brake, tranny, coolant, oil, and steering. This was about two weeks ago.
Now here's the problem:
Starting yesterday, at 45-50 MPH cruising, the truck constantly slips on itself. I watch the coolant temperature gauge nearly drop to 100, its lowest reading while it is acting "jerky." (Update: The temp guage drops and returns to normal a whole second before the *clunk* sound from the tranny and then the vehicle jerks. Sometimes the temp guage will drop to 100 and nothing more will happen. Again, only at sustained speeds between 45-50mph)
RPM's do not change, nor does any of the other guages. If I stay between this speed, the truck will repeat the jerk every 5-10 seconds. Accelerating past that speed range yields normal driving, and under that speed range everything works fine as well. Its hard to tell, but appears to be getting worse the more I test it.
I'll be checking the tranny fluid at hot idle when I get home tonight.
(Update: Fluid Levels check good.)
BlazerLT, if you got an answer for this one off the top of your head, I owe you a beer. :)
Ravenhurst
Hehe, people are asking for me by name here now, I must know something. ;)
Alright, so these symptoms happen all at the same time?
Tranny slips or does the engine lose power?
Coolant temperature dives.
Ok, does any of the other gauges go like this?
Ravenhurst
09-11-2004, 06:36 PM
Hehe, people are asking for me by name here now, I must know something. ;)
Alright, so these symptoms happen all at the same time?
Like I said above, they happen in an almost sequential order... I'll break it down so it'll be easier to troubleshoot.
1. Accelerate to about 45-50 mph.
2. Once at or above 45mph for about 10 seconds, the coolant guage starts to fluctuate.
3. After a few minor fluctuations, it dives to 100 degrees and then returns to normal, at which time the tranny clunks and the vehicle jerks. Speed and Engine RPM remain the same.
Tranny slips or does the engine lose power?
It feels like the tranny is attempting to get into final gear but can't make it at 45-50mph speed range. If I acclerate PAST 45-50mph the tranny shifts gears, the RPM drops, and everything works as advertised.
Coolant temperature dives.
Ok, does any of the other gauges go like this?
Yes, just the coolant guage. It will go all over the place after a few cycles of this mystery. No other guages move. The RPM's will drop about one notch if the clunk is a violent one.. but I figure that is to be expected. Usually the other guages remain steady.
There's alot of information and details in the above posts.. so read carefully.. :)
Alright, so these symptoms happen all at the same time?
Like I said above, they happen in an almost sequential order... I'll break it down so it'll be easier to troubleshoot.
1. Accelerate to about 45-50 mph.
2. Once at or above 45mph for about 10 seconds, the coolant guage starts to fluctuate.
3. After a few minor fluctuations, it dives to 100 degrees and then returns to normal, at which time the tranny clunks and the vehicle jerks. Speed and Engine RPM remain the same.
Tranny slips or does the engine lose power?
It feels like the tranny is attempting to get into final gear but can't make it at 45-50mph speed range. If I acclerate PAST 45-50mph the tranny shifts gears, the RPM drops, and everything works as advertised.
Coolant temperature dives.
Ok, does any of the other gauges go like this?
Yes, just the coolant guage. It will go all over the place after a few cycles of this mystery. No other guages move. The RPM's will drop about one notch if the clunk is a violent one.. but I figure that is to be expected. Usually the other guages remain steady.
There's alot of information and details in the above posts.. so read carefully.. :)
BlazerLT
09-11-2004, 06:42 PM
Ok, I read it. Just needed clarification.
First, check your coolant for contamination and the same with the tranny fluid. The only time they both come together like this is in the rad.
BUT, hear me out on this.
The clunk is the Torque convertor solenoid trying to lock up the torque convertor.
It will only do this when the engine is up to temperature at 50mph or less.
What you are seeing is the coolant temperature dropping rapidly which tells the tranny's computer to unlock the torque convertor.
What needs to be checked:
Both Coolant temperature sensors.
Thermostat.
Torque Convertor solenoid.
Let us know.
First, check your coolant for contamination and the same with the tranny fluid. The only time they both come together like this is in the rad.
BUT, hear me out on this.
The clunk is the Torque convertor solenoid trying to lock up the torque convertor.
It will only do this when the engine is up to temperature at 50mph or less.
What you are seeing is the coolant temperature dropping rapidly which tells the tranny's computer to unlock the torque convertor.
What needs to be checked:
Both Coolant temperature sensors.
Thermostat.
Torque Convertor solenoid.
Let us know.
Ravenhurst
09-11-2004, 06:53 PM
When I looked at the fluids, there was no contamination.
Both coolant temperature sensors.
Thermostat.
Torque Convertor solenoid.
Damn. I thought it'd be easy. ;) I don't know enough about these to really look and check and be able to identify if they are bad. But, I'll be bringing the vehicle to a real car mechanic in 2 weeks to get these checked out. I'll come back here as soon as I know.
I'd do it sooner, but I'm getting deployed for 2 weeks.
Thanks for the help, and I'll get back to you guys asap.
Both coolant temperature sensors.
Thermostat.
Torque Convertor solenoid.
Damn. I thought it'd be easy. ;) I don't know enough about these to really look and check and be able to identify if they are bad. But, I'll be bringing the vehicle to a real car mechanic in 2 weeks to get these checked out. I'll come back here as soon as I know.
I'd do it sooner, but I'm getting deployed for 2 weeks.
Thanks for the help, and I'll get back to you guys asap.
BlazerLT
09-11-2004, 08:23 PM
Don't drive the truck too much in this condition. You are doing damage.
starla3366
09-13-2004, 10:02 AM
Where are you stationed?
I'm stationed in Brunswick, ME with patrol squadron eight.
Valve Body -- I'm absolutely positive
I'm stationed in Brunswick, ME with patrol squadron eight.
Valve Body -- I'm absolutely positive
Rbraczyk
09-13-2004, 02:04 PM
My truck did this to me, and it turned out to be a bad torque converter.
BlazerLT
09-13-2004, 03:38 PM
Where are you stationed?
I'm stationed in Brunswick, ME with patrol squadron eight.
Valve Body -- I'm absolutely positive
Valve body doesn't effect the coolant temperature.
I'm stationed in Brunswick, ME with patrol squadron eight.
Valve Body -- I'm absolutely positive
Valve body doesn't effect the coolant temperature.
starla3366
09-13-2004, 05:14 PM
Valve body doesn't effect the coolant temperature.
I just mentioned the valve body, because of past expieriances. I like that you have a lot more knowledge than most people on this forum. Your one person I'd hate to get on the bad side. Your Good indeed!
I just mentioned the valve body, because of past expieriances. I like that you have a lot more knowledge than most people on this forum. Your one person I'd hate to get on the bad side. Your Good indeed!
BlazerLT
09-13-2004, 06:49 PM
I just mentioned the valve body, because of past expieriances. I like that you have a lot more knowledge than most people on this forum. Your one person I'd hate to get on the bad side. Your Good indeed!
Sorry if I seemed cold. Wasn't my intention.
Just had the Mr.Spock logic on the brain.
Sorry if I seemed cold. Wasn't my intention.
Just had the Mr.Spock logic on the brain.
Ravenhurst
09-13-2004, 11:17 PM
I'm stationed at Eglin AFB in Florida.
And yeah, I wasn't planning on driving the vehicle anywhere but to the shop.
I've got my laptop with me so off duty I can check out these forums and listen to all the troubleshooting tips, for which I am grateful.
My only question is for the guy who had the torque converter problem before... if you don't mind me asking, how much was the repairs?
And as far as BlazerLT's knowledge, I'd make him speeddial numero uno for when I go to the repair shop next. ;) heh Don't worry, the others have helped out immensely as well. Reading about cold air intakes made me buy one too. At least I can put THAT in by myself. I can fix F-15's like a pro, but when it comes to cars.... I'm lost. :) Thanks for the help.
And yeah, I wasn't planning on driving the vehicle anywhere but to the shop.
I've got my laptop with me so off duty I can check out these forums and listen to all the troubleshooting tips, for which I am grateful.
My only question is for the guy who had the torque converter problem before... if you don't mind me asking, how much was the repairs?
And as far as BlazerLT's knowledge, I'd make him speeddial numero uno for when I go to the repair shop next. ;) heh Don't worry, the others have helped out immensely as well. Reading about cold air intakes made me buy one too. At least I can put THAT in by myself. I can fix F-15's like a pro, but when it comes to cars.... I'm lost. :) Thanks for the help.
starla3366
09-13-2004, 11:50 PM
Hey Raven, at least you know how to turn a wrench. Really, that's all that matters, Right?
Oh, I'd rather not be fixing THIER P-3 ORION!
Oh, I'd rather not be fixing THIER P-3 ORION!
Ravenhurst
09-14-2004, 01:57 AM
haha yeah my hands come back everynight covered in anti-sieze and pockerts full of TO numbers and scounge. ;)
Bikeman1
09-16-2004, 11:22 AM
I`m new here, but it sounds similar to a problem I had recently.... and it was that I needed a tune-up, the engine was missing while in OD, but only does it in OD... You guys know alot more about this than I, but just throwing in my .02,
Ravenhurst
09-16-2004, 12:08 PM
Looks like I might be getting home early to see if my house is still there.
I'll definately post what the problem was as soon as i know it.
I'll definately post what the problem was as soon as i know it.
wolfox
09-17-2004, 01:01 AM
Another possibility is to have a charging system/battery stress test done. Autozone will do this for you. If there is any "weirdness" going on in a truck with this much electronics in it, it's going to show up as odd gremlins all over the place. I had a weird tranny shift problem in a completely different vehicle, much like how you described. Turned out to be a weak voltage regulator in the alternator. Insufficient current in combination with possibly a bad ground sounds much like what is happening here. ...My $0.02... (Try the cheap fix first before getting into the more expensive stuff I say)
slammed s10 87
09-23-2004, 01:20 AM
Another possibility is to have a charging system/battery stress test done. Autozone will do this for you. If there is any "weirdness" going on in a truck with this much electronics in it, it's going to show up as odd gremlins all over the place. I had a weird tranny shift problem in a completely different vehicle, much like how you described. Turned out to be a weak voltage regulator in the alternator. Insufficient current in combination with possibly a bad ground sounds much like what is happening here. ...My $0.02... (Try the cheap fix first before getting into the more expensive stuff I say) i second that wolf...-lee
Ravenhurst
10-05-2004, 02:10 PM
Here's an update to the situation. I hope you guys are still around to give me some final words of advice.
First I went to autozone to test the power output like the person above mentioned. Everything was working perfectly here.
After that, I took the truck to AAMCO. They tore apart the transmission and discovered a few things wrong.
1. The Torque Converter had pieces chillin' on the inside, obviosuly making it a bad part. The pieces were part of the coverters clutch, which I think is for the stator. I can get more details on this tomorrow.
2. Clutches for 1 to 2, 2 to 3, were burned slightly.
3. Possible bad 2 to 3 valve, and other two valves the mechanic mentioned but I'll have to call them again to get hte proper names.
They're trying to find out what caused the torque converter to go bad to start with. Basically trying to get me to buy those different valves. He said he was working with AAMCO shops on their "nationwide" tech help network to see if changing these valves is recommended to prevent the torque converter fault from happening again.
The original problem? The converter wasn't putting out enough hydraullic pressure to shit the gears in a timely manner, POSSIBLY due to faulty valves cracking pressures. Also causing the clutch rings to burn up.
This is vague I know, but its the best update I can do, and I don't have much time to write more. I'll update this when I talk to the mechanic again and get the names of the valves in question. They are using a rebuild kit to put the transmission back together, but arn't going to finish the job untill they get word on those 3 valves he mentioned that could be a faulty part. I'll type more later.
First I went to autozone to test the power output like the person above mentioned. Everything was working perfectly here.
After that, I took the truck to AAMCO. They tore apart the transmission and discovered a few things wrong.
1. The Torque Converter had pieces chillin' on the inside, obviosuly making it a bad part. The pieces were part of the coverters clutch, which I think is for the stator. I can get more details on this tomorrow.
2. Clutches for 1 to 2, 2 to 3, were burned slightly.
3. Possible bad 2 to 3 valve, and other two valves the mechanic mentioned but I'll have to call them again to get hte proper names.
They're trying to find out what caused the torque converter to go bad to start with. Basically trying to get me to buy those different valves. He said he was working with AAMCO shops on their "nationwide" tech help network to see if changing these valves is recommended to prevent the torque converter fault from happening again.
The original problem? The converter wasn't putting out enough hydraullic pressure to shit the gears in a timely manner, POSSIBLY due to faulty valves cracking pressures. Also causing the clutch rings to burn up.
This is vague I know, but its the best update I can do, and I don't have much time to write more. I'll update this when I talk to the mechanic again and get the names of the valves in question. They are using a rebuild kit to put the transmission back together, but arn't going to finish the job untill they get word on those 3 valves he mentioned that could be a faulty part. I'll type more later.
BlazerLT
10-05-2004, 11:15 PM
Tell them to fix it and don't pay them to explore what happened.
REplace the clutches, replace the valve, fix the torque convertor and get out of there.
They are going to change you up the ass for exploration.
Also, I have no idea how this corelates to the temp dropping like you said initially.
REplace the clutches, replace the valve, fix the torque convertor and get out of there.
They are going to change you up the ass for exploration.
Also, I have no idea how this corelates to the temp dropping like you said initially.
JTrujillo86
10-12-2004, 06:47 PM
Some of you sound knowledgeable here...I have a quick question:
My mom has a 1999 Blazer (AKA piece of shit from birth) and it's got about 81K miles on it. She had a SES light pop on and the transmission is shifting REALLY REALLY hard between 1st and 2nd. The stealership told her that the valves are sticking in the transmission; it needs a valve body, full flush, filter, and gasket replacement. They want $1000. Is this too much? She wants the dealership to do it, but we can't find any cheaper ones in our area. Also, any of you, after replacing the valve body, did you encounter any other problems with the trans.?
Jeremy
My mom has a 1999 Blazer (AKA piece of shit from birth) and it's got about 81K miles on it. She had a SES light pop on and the transmission is shifting REALLY REALLY hard between 1st and 2nd. The stealership told her that the valves are sticking in the transmission; it needs a valve body, full flush, filter, and gasket replacement. They want $1000. Is this too much? She wants the dealership to do it, but we can't find any cheaper ones in our area. Also, any of you, after replacing the valve body, did you encounter any other problems with the trans.?
Jeremy
BlazerLT
10-12-2004, 09:55 PM
Is the SES light still on?
Go to Autozone and get the code scanned and come back here with the exact code they give you and not the guys interpretation of it.
Once we have the code we can go from there.
Go to Autozone and get the code scanned and come back here with the exact code they give you and not the guys interpretation of it.
Once we have the code we can go from there.
Ravenhurst
10-13-2004, 12:57 AM
Here's the last update for my transmission problem. The truck is back in my hands, and is working perfectly. (Also added the K&N Intake system... sounds GREAT)
AAMCO changed the following:
Torque Converter
EPL Solenoid
Sungear Ring
1-2 Clutch Ring
2-3 Clutch Ring
For a grand total of $1973.00.
They showed me pieces of the torque converters clutch ring, that were chillin around on the inside of the converter itself. Definately screwed up.
Thanks for everyone's input and timely replies. It helped me understand things alot more.
AAMCO changed the following:
Torque Converter
EPL Solenoid
Sungear Ring
1-2 Clutch Ring
2-3 Clutch Ring
For a grand total of $1973.00.
They showed me pieces of the torque converters clutch ring, that were chillin around on the inside of the converter itself. Definately screwed up.
Thanks for everyone's input and timely replies. It helped me understand things alot more.
JTrujillo86
10-13-2004, 01:27 AM
The stealership already told her what was wrong...anyway, the code is 1870 (I think). I called Aamco for her and they said that they would repair instead of replacing the valve body and do a flush, filter, and gasket for $500.
Also, I was sort of concerned about the torque converter being burnt, but the dealer said that it wasn't and that there was no brass or metal pieces when they dropped the pan.
Jeremy
Also, I was sort of concerned about the torque converter being burnt, but the dealer said that it wasn't and that there was no brass or metal pieces when they dropped the pan.
Jeremy
BlazerLT
10-13-2004, 03:51 AM
Glad to see you on the road and hope this is the end of all your worries for the rest of the life of the truck.
Keep it maintained, tuned and greased up.
Keep it maintained, tuned and greased up.
Ravenhurst
10-16-2004, 04:24 AM
I do my best keeping her in tip top order. And you can bet that if it isn't, this will be my first stop, and hopefully you'll be my first contact. ;)
I've got pictures of it on my yahoo profile, (forthcoming for most of them). I got the install of the intake on there right now.. and some other pics. The profile name is ravenhurst_00. Be sure to check them out.
Here's a general opinion question for the masses... brush guards.. look good or ugly?
I've got pictures of it on my yahoo profile, (forthcoming for most of them). I got the install of the intake on there right now.. and some other pics. The profile name is ravenhurst_00. Be sure to check them out.
Here's a general opinion question for the masses... brush guards.. look good or ugly?
BlazerLT
10-16-2004, 07:25 PM
Ugly in my mind and just adds unneeded weight to an already heave vehicle.
chcknugget
10-16-2004, 09:21 PM
I have the Westin pushbars. check out some pics at my site www.geocities.com/customjimmy. My page isn't done, but you should also look under my kcdaylight flash section, it has a closer picture.
I think brushguards look bulky and silly on blazers
The safari bars are small and flimsy looking.
My pushbars are really tough and I feel they're a good sized match. They aren't too heavy either... http://www.westinautomotive.com/
I think brushguards look bulky and silly on blazers
The safari bars are small and flimsy looking.
My pushbars are really tough and I feel they're a good sized match. They aren't too heavy either... http://www.westinautomotive.com/
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