Damn ignition switch

Just went out to start my 1997 Blazer LT 110,000 miles and it wont crank. Dash lights up, fuel pump hums on, but no crank. Battery is good! I'm guessing the damn ignition switch. Got the dash apart anyway to replace the heater core, so makes getting at this a bit easier...LOL. I got the bottom part of the plastic column cover off but can't figure out how to get the top part off. The part the hazard witch goes through. Once this is off how can do i replace the ignition switch. Thanks for all the help. I hope i am on the right track. This is just one of about a dozen problems with this vehicle. Was never a mechanic but I sure am learning alot about cars repairing this damn thing.

I don't think you need to take the top portion off.

Under the steering column, wiggle the pink wire and see if it starts.

Ok found the pink wire...wiggle wiggle...still nothing. tested the ignition coil with ohmmeter. results were normal per repair manual. Read some posts on here abou tno lights and such. I have all the lights, and guages. Fuel pump kicks on. I can hear it. No crank at all. bad wire maybe? Or still the ignition switch?

Do you hear a click?

How did you test the battery?

Starter maybe, or just the solenoid?

no click....tested batter with volt meter...its the best i had on hand...it showed 12 v. Gauge on dash shows about 10. That should at least make it crank right?

Check the yellow wire of the ignition harness for 12v with the key in the crank position(be carefull the Airbag system uses a yellow wire and it should have a tag on it under the dash). Check for power at the starter with the key in the crank position, both wires should have 12V(main wire from battery and purple wire to solenoid). If both have power try cleaning battery and wire connections to see if it starts then

It was the ignition switch. Damn thing. It fired right up. Thanks for everyones help! I'm sure I'll be back again with another problem before too long.

How did you find out that it was the ignition switch?

Did you replace it outright as a trial and error, or was it repaired?

There seems to be a lot of ignition switches with bad solder joints in these models. If you could share as much additional information as possible, Like what wire was causing the problem, it might just help someone else with a similar problem.

Glad to hear you're up and running.

It was the ignition switch. Damn thing. It fired right up. Thanks for everyones help! I'm sure I'll be back again with another problem before too long.

Nice!

1997 seems to be a bad year for those switches.

How did you find out that it was the ignition switch?

Did you replace it outright as a trial and error, or was it repaired?

There seems to be a lot of ignition switches with bad solder joints in these models. If you could share as much additional information as possible, Like what wire was causing the problem, it might just help someone else with a similar problem.

Glad to hear you're up and running.

I'm agreeing with Mr Norwood here, "bad switches". Although it isn't a solder joint, it's a burnt contact within the switch (check my previous posts on this subject).

Even with the symtoms stated, I would have guessed a starter.

I'm glad your up and running again :smile:
Mike

;) hehe

I totally agree with this thread. DAMN YOU IGNITION SWITCH!!!

Did you wind up pulling the top plastic off of the column? How did you manage it? I have to replace my combination box (the hazards/blinker switch box). My hazard switch is busted, so I gotta purchase a new one, but I don't know how to get that top part off. I had it all the way down to that one spot....... unfornately.

I replaced the ignition switch by trial and error. It happened to work, thank God. I guess its the pink wire that tends to go bad. I had read you can crack open the case and re-solder the wire. I found it easier to just plug in a new switch.

Now about the top of the case. Its held on by 2 external Torx screws. You need a Torx socket (I think its an E4) I found it at Sears Hardware. Now to get it around the key cylinder I used my Dremel tool and cut a notch in the plastic just under the key cylinder. This allowed me to carefully pry it from around the cylinder. When you re-install it the rubber cover from the bottom cover will cover-up the cut you make. Dont even notice its there. This will open up the top of the collumn to get to the switches need. By removing the cover it made it alot easier to get at everything. I hope this helps. I will post the whole process in a second post in a little while.

Thanks