Tension In Brake Pedal
DEEMAN07
09-09-2004, 06:26 PM
I have a 96 Tahoe and within the last couple of weeks I have noticed the brake pedal has become harder and harder to apply. The last time I drove it I basicly had to stand on it with my weight to stop. I also noticed a hissing noise when I applied the brake like there was air leaking from somewhere. I don't dare to drive it again because I might not be able to stop, unless I start applying the brake 15 car lengths behind someone. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
Patrick B
09-11-2004, 03:20 PM
I have the same problem with my truck. It is the power assist that has a leak. It as shouldn't prevent you from stoping you will just need to use more leg to get it to stop.
You will need to replace your power assist to get rid of the problem.
You will need to replace your power assist to get rid of the problem.
DEEMAN07
09-12-2004, 07:15 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at that.
Darryl
Darryl
Patrick B
09-12-2004, 11:32 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at that.
Darryl
Look under the drivers side dash to make sure there is air leaking out around the brake rod (attached to the brake pedal) that goes through the fire wall. That is sure proof that the power assist needs replacing.
IF you pop the hood and look to the right side on the fire wall you will see a round metal drum on the fire wall with the master brake cylnder sticking out of it (the thing you put brake fluid in). That is your power assist if you didn't already know that. I just got done replacing my unit today. You Just unbolt the master cylnder from the power assist unit (2 bolts) and pull it away from the power assist unit. You will need to push the brake lines and gently bend them to move it away from the power assist (you do not need to move to far just enough to let the unit slide out). They say you are supposed to unhook the brake lines from the master cylnder but you really do not want to do that because then you have to bleed you brakes and there is no need for that. Once the master cylnder is unhooked then you go inside the car and there are 4 bolts that hold the power assist to the fire wall of the car. This is a pain in the you know what but you will need to unbolt these and also unhook the brake pedal from the brake rod going into the power assist unit. I would take the clip of the brake pedal first and then pop the white plastic unit of the brake rod. That will give you a bit more room to get an extension in through the slot next to the steering colum to undo the bolts (a swival on a deep well 5/8 socket with an extension worked best for most of the bolts). The top bolts you will need to feel for because they are hard to see. (flash light is useful also) It took me about 2 hour to get out and about 45 minutes to get back in (learning curve). If you do it your self it will save you a bundle of cash. Then unit is about $130 and the gm dealer would I am sure charge you about $700 for the work. This is the first time I ever replaced one. Outside of the tight quarters to get at the thing under the dash it is about as simple as changing an alternator. Best of luck.
Darryl
Look under the drivers side dash to make sure there is air leaking out around the brake rod (attached to the brake pedal) that goes through the fire wall. That is sure proof that the power assist needs replacing.
IF you pop the hood and look to the right side on the fire wall you will see a round metal drum on the fire wall with the master brake cylnder sticking out of it (the thing you put brake fluid in). That is your power assist if you didn't already know that. I just got done replacing my unit today. You Just unbolt the master cylnder from the power assist unit (2 bolts) and pull it away from the power assist unit. You will need to push the brake lines and gently bend them to move it away from the power assist (you do not need to move to far just enough to let the unit slide out). They say you are supposed to unhook the brake lines from the master cylnder but you really do not want to do that because then you have to bleed you brakes and there is no need for that. Once the master cylnder is unhooked then you go inside the car and there are 4 bolts that hold the power assist to the fire wall of the car. This is a pain in the you know what but you will need to unbolt these and also unhook the brake pedal from the brake rod going into the power assist unit. I would take the clip of the brake pedal first and then pop the white plastic unit of the brake rod. That will give you a bit more room to get an extension in through the slot next to the steering colum to undo the bolts (a swival on a deep well 5/8 socket with an extension worked best for most of the bolts). The top bolts you will need to feel for because they are hard to see. (flash light is useful also) It took me about 2 hour to get out and about 45 minutes to get back in (learning curve). If you do it your self it will save you a bundle of cash. Then unit is about $130 and the gm dealer would I am sure charge you about $700 for the work. This is the first time I ever replaced one. Outside of the tight quarters to get at the thing under the dash it is about as simple as changing an alternator. Best of luck.
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