2000 Blazer Front left Vibration/Humming -- Wheel Bearing?

2000 Blazer Wheel Bearing?I just completed all four rotors and pads, plus both rear calipers. But two days before I completed this brake job, I failed a state safety inspection. I needed to replace both front ball joints, tie rods, and repack the wheel bearings. I Brought it to the dealership I bought it from cause I have a warranty. The Dealership repaired all parts stated above. Dealership wanted 3 Grand but thanks for the warranty that I bought I only had to pay 100 bucks. I know, thank, God!Now after having all this completed, I got this humming/vibration coming from the front left wheel area. I can't think it be the brakes, as I did the work myself, but I'm not really sure. Does anyone think I might have a bad wheel bearing?This Vibration can be weak at times just as it can be strong also. I'm actually scared to drive it. I've noticed it happens a lot just as I've hit the brakes. But, it doesn't just do it when I brake. It does it at slow speeds, like an idle speed. The tire isn't rubbing against anything either, that was the first thing I looked at. And it only does it once and a while.PLEASE HELP,anthonyp.s. Getting rid of the brake squeal is a pain in the butt. High temp wheel bearing grease works great on the back of the brake pads!

And this vibration is new since the brakes? I doubt it would be a wheel brg then. I'd suspect that you bent the dust shield/ backing plate and it's rubbing the hub or rotor. First thing I'd do it pull the left side apart to check for anything installed incorrectly/ bent.

The other thing I'd be looking for is a caliper that's seized if you hadn't replaced them. A proper slider service is critical. Did you lube the new slider pins? Install them correctly?

I've checked all parts that would rub up against anything wheel wheel is in motion. Nothing there. I've properly lubed the caliper pins also. I've also removed the caliper to check if it seized also, it's not. I'm really struggling here and tempted to bring it back to the dealership. But, I hate doing that because I like doing my own work. I WILL NEVER GIVE UP! at least that's what I keep telling myself. Anymore suggestions?

Does the vibration seem to get louder when turning the wheel in one direction verses the other? I had a similar problem where if I turned the steering wheel to the right then quickly to the left, the noise would stop. When I pulled the front wheel bearings out I found one that was leaving metal flakes in the grease. It shouldn't take much to inspect them. Look for the obvious metal flakes of course and also for any discoloration of the rollers.

Sounds like a bad bearing for sure.

Never repack bearings, only replace.

The noise is there no matter what, if the wheel is turned or straight. If there is any doubt it's a bearing, it's going straight back to the dealership. The dealer did the work on it and will fix the problem, it's not my fault the quality of work/parts were bad.

I've got one person (blazer lt) that thinks it's a bad bearing for sure, I'd really like it if another said for sure, that way I'll have a positive answer, no offense blazerlt. I appreciate your feedback blazerlt.

By the way, mine is an LT also and I LOVE IT!

You can't repack bearings on our models I think, they are sealed and are replaced as a whole.

You have

1.) Bad bearing.
2.) Warped Rotor
3.) Tire has shifted a belt.

And yes, LTs ROCK! ;)

You can't repack bearings on our models I think, they are sealed and are replaced as a whole.

You have

1.) Bad bearing.
2.) Warped Rotor
3.) Tire has shifted a belt.

And yes, LTs ROCK! ;)


If it were a warped rotor, then the vibration would be there constantly, right?

Not necessarily, but most of the time yes.

Have the tires checked. A shifted belt can cause this too at high speeds.

Not necessarily, but most of the time yes.

Have the tires checked. A shifted belt can cause this too at high speeds.


I will be checking the tires in the morning. But, it only happens at low speeds. Say you pull up to a stop light and apply the brakes, the moment your foot travels to the floor it will vibrate/humm then the moment my foot lets off the brake it goes away. I did notice a few times that it vibrated/hummed when I wasn't pressing the brakes, but it was immediatly after letting off the brakes. It only does it at low speeds from, say, 1-20 mph.

I am really appriciating all the feed back i'm getting. THANK YOU

Sounds like warped rotors.

I must have recieved warped rotors from Advanced Auto parts. So, now it's not the bearings, it's the rotors. Thank you.

Go out and drive at 60mph and press on the brakes hard.

If the truck shimmys and vibrates , the rotors are warped.

Just check everything to be sure.

That's a little rough don't you think. I'm not really sure about slamming on the brakes at 60 mph, but I will press them a little harder then normal and see what happens. You got the right idea on checking everything. I'll let you know what happens tommorow.

I didn't say slam, I said hard.

In your original thread, you said you completed all 4 rotors. Does that mean you replaced them or had them resurfaced? If they were replaced, it is quite likely that one of the new rotors is slightly warped. I have made it a practice to have a light skin cut (.003-.005) made on every brand new rotor that I install. My wife and I almost lost control of a vehicle (not a Blazer) doing 60 mph due to brand new warped rotors.

First off, you did the brake job and then to the dealer. How much time in between? Next, You said that the dealer replaced "both front ball joints" that implies 2 not 4. Did you mean the ball joints on both sides? Next, as BlazerLT said, "You can't repack bearings on our models I think, they are sealed and are replaced as a whole." The bearings are pressed into the casting and are not normally user serviceable. I have pressed out the bearings and repressed new ones but that was only in a pinch. If your dealer said they repacked, I can't see that. You also mentioned that the dealer replaced "tie rod ends". On which side? both sides? inner and outer? outer only? You stated that you had a - "But, it doesn't just do it when I brake. It does it at slow speeds, like an idle speed." I'm having a little difficulty understanding a "vibration" at say maybe 5 mph as you idle along.
Now for the diagnostics:
1. If you think it is a warped rotor, why not just swap it with the other side.
2. If you think it is a slipped belt in the tire, exchange it with the rear tire on the same side.
3. Depending on the tie rod ends, perhpas you should have it aligned. Maybe the mechanic didn't count the turns properly. After any steering component is replaced, an alignment for at least toe in should be done on tie rod ends.
4.When you collapsed your caliper, did you open the bleeder or did you just push the fluid back through the system? With ABS you should not push the fluid back, the possiblity of putting contaminants into the ABS is strong and can cause problems with the dump and isolation valves.
5.If after you swapped rotors and/or tires and the "humming/vibration" remained I would go for the alignment and/or a bearing. In either case it would go back to the dealer for the alignment or the bearing since they performed the work. If the "humming/vibration" moved with the rotor, change it or have it cut. If it moved with the tire, change it out.
6.I am assuming that you have a 4WD. If the mechanic in the shop used an air gun to install the axle nut on the CVJ shaft, he could have damaged the bearing. I have seen it done with an overzealous mechanic. Two days later it was back for a bad wheel bearing.
I am not trying to be rude to anyone here for there is a lot of good thought, however, "check once, review you check, replace once". Perform some diagnostics before you spend anymore money. Hope this helps, Good Luck!

In your original thread, you said you completed all 4 rotors. Does that mean you replaced them or had them resurfaced? If they were replaced, it is quite likely that one of the new rotors is slightly warped. I have made it a practice to have a light skin cut (.003-.005) made on every brand new rotor that I install. My wife and I almost lost control of a vehicle (not a Blazer) doing 60 mph due to brand new warped rotors.


I replaced them, that is a good thought.

I took it to the dealer first, the following second day from bringing it home, I performed my brake job. All four rotors were bad and could not be shaved and the brake pads were worn to the backing plate. The job needed to be done. The dealership replaced all front end ball joints. As for the dealership repacking the bearings, I don't know, the reciept does not go into detail, but I will call them to ask, someone will know. The tie rod ends were replaced on the frontend inner and outer on both wheels.
Yes it does vibrate only at low speeds.
Mikado14, I think the way you went into great details, and explaining the possibilities was great, I could not have asked for anybetter of an explination. I'm sorry I did not go into great detail on my original thread, I thought I had covered it pretty good. No, your not being rude, Your getting to the point, quite quickly i'd say.

After troubleshooting, and taking it for a drive, I've found that it's not the front left wheel, but it's the rear left wheel. I've also noticed it only happens if I put a slight pressure on the brake pedal. When I say slight pressure, I mean like when you lightly press the brake to take cruise control off. What I'm going to do is swap the rear rotors and do a complete inspection on all brake, wheel, and moving parts, including the parking brake (possible). If anyone has any other ideas, I do believe that it may be a warped rotor, now.

PLEASE HELP,
anthony

Swap in new rotors.

Don't just swap them side to side.

Brand New higher quality rotors are needed.

Swap in new rotors.

Don't just swap them side to side.

Brand New higher quality rotors are needed.

I am taking off both rear rotors right now to take to Advanced Auto Parts. I WILL BE GETTING NEW ONES. Defective parts from an auto parts store is not fun, I hate that you buy new parts but you can never rely that they will be good. I will let everyone know what happens after completing this project.

So far this forum is the best on the internet thanks to all your helpfullness.

THANK YOU,
anthony

Don't ever get the cheapest rotor available.

Get the high quality one or the mid grade.

I think LT is right. I'd swap the rotors out. I'm not sure how much flack Advanced Auto will give you on this, but I can tell you that it doesn't take much warp in a rotor to cause a problem. Like I said earlier, when I had a similar problem I cut .004-.005 off of each side to correct the Built-in warp on my wife's brand new rotors. The difference was night and day. The stupd part is, these very same rotors are warped again and need to be re-cut again. Higher Quality rotors are the answer for sure. The Parts store will argue that brand new rotors are supposed to be good to install right out of the box and do not require cutting. However, They will probably want to skin cut them instead of replacing them, and at the very minimum, they will want to mount them on the Brake Lathe to inspect them using a Dial indicator. Stick to your guns and demand new ones if you see more than .002 warp on the Dial indicator. At very least, they should cut them for free. If you are forced to settle for resurfacing the rotors instead of replacing them, at least you will either cure the problem or eliminate the possibility.

I just replaced my brakes 4 months ago and I replaced my expensive AC Delco Durastop Rotors for cheap ones because replacing the rotors was cheaper than remachining the old ones.

This was a completely retarded thing to do. AC Delco rotors are great and I should have just had them resurfaced.

Idiot = me

Well, Advanced Auto Parts was great enough to allow me an even exchange but the only brand they had was Wearever. So, I guess I had no choice. Also, they don't shave rotors either. I'm going to install the new ones right now. Wish me luck

New rotors are on and I'm going out to test them out. Should I have cleaned the new rotors off before installing them. I did. But, I was sure if that oil that was on the rotor was on it for a reason. I just wanted to cover my ass just in case I had to clean it. Wish me Luck.

It's Gone, The vibration/humming is gone. At least for now. Thanks to everyone that helped me. Especialy BLAZERLT! Keep up the good work everyone. If the noise comes back, Ill let you all know.

Congrats! Glad I could put my two cents in! Happy motoring!

Should I have cleaned the new rotors off before installing them. I did. But, I was sure if that oil that was on the rotor was on it for a reason.

Yes, clean the oil off the rotors before installing them. That stuff is on there to keep them from rusting while being shipped or on the shelf.

I had the same noise from the front left wheel on my 2000 Blazer.
It was the wheel bearing, so I decided to replace both front wheel bearings.
I tried to buy the bearings, but you can’t get just the bearings for this model, (I was told) you have to get the whole wheel hub assembly. I found them at Pep Boys for $180 each.
Replacing both wheel hubs took about 3 hours. Not too bad. (especially since the dealer wanted $1300 to do both hubs!)
Hope this is helpful to you…

The GRIPE is fixed and there is no more humming/vibration. It's gone. It was a warped rotor!!

It's Gone, The vibration/humming is gone. At least for now. Thanks to everyone that helped me. Especialy BLAZERLT! Keep up the good work everyone. If the noise comes back, Ill let you all know.

Glad to help.

Hope the problem is gone for good.

Man, I just love helping people, makes me feel warm inside.

Glad to help.

Hope the problem is gone for good.

Man, I just love helping people, makes me feel warm inside.


I hope it's gone for good to, the only problem now is the stupid brake squealing is back again. I just got done putting High temp wheel bearing grease on the back of all pads, and now its back. I guess I just make another thread for that. I'm getting so sick of working on my brakes. All well, at least I have the know how's

What kind of pads did you use, standard or the new metallics?

Hey BlazerLT, ever hear of "Seating the Brakes"? I have been told that after you complete a brake job, you should seat the new pads in by taking the vehicle up to approx 50 - 60 MPH and firmly applying the brakes, not to the point of squealling to a stop, but a very fast stop? Is this BS or what?

I used WEAREVER GOLD PADS on all brakes. Cheap but good from what i've been told. I'm not sure but I think they are metallics. I've also heard that Blazers are known for a horrible braking system and suspension system. Is this true? I've never heard of "seating the brakes"

brakes are adjusted automatically.

Do you have rear drum?

Rear Discs

Nah, they are all self adjusting.

See if the squealing stops after a while.

Great, I'll give it 1,000 miles

I have to get new rotors. What is your opinion of the wearevers? How much did they cost? BlazerLT regrets losing his AC Delcos. I have to do the same project- (see thread "brake vibrations")

If the rotors are warped and causing the vibration, replace them with mid range rotors at a good price.

Don't get the cheapest or you will be sorry.

http://webepc.wrencheadpro.com/cgi-bin/sewse?/u/www/webepc.com/cmm/scripts/epc10.cmm+eauto

what do you think of the ac delco rotors?
$34 or $68

ac delco rotors are bendix.

wearever silver are offshore only, gold are offshore or canadian but better quality.

for a few bucks get bendix/bendix and dont worry about it.

The Delco rotors up here are called Durastop rotors.

Expensive too.

on this site they have the durastop for $34 bucks a rotor. These are probably the same ones they sell at the dealership. Will I need rotors with the abs sensor ring if I have abs? Or can I use my old ones?

On your truck the abs sensors are integrated into the dustshields... on 98 and up they are integrated into the hub